Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
North Cairns Barron Gorge The Floating World | |||||
V2 | ★★ Traverse
Start low on sloping lip and traverse L along the edge to mantle top out. Cameron Whycherley (Attempt) FA: Cameron Wycherley, Mar 2015 | 2m | |||
V4 | ★ Friction Averse
Start on RH slopey crimp and LH sidepull/undercling. Throw for the lip and mantle. FA: Callum Mather | 2m | |||
North Cairns Barron Gorge Upstream Mountain Side | |||||
★★★ The Indomitable Project
Jaw dropping, and very hard. Located just to the left of a creek near roadside attraction. | 8m | ||||
North Cairns Barron Gorge Roadside Attraction | |||||
V1 | ★ The Vineyard
Up the vine-ridden face from a stand start. FA: Callum Mather | 4m | |||
V7 | ★★ The Dark Side of The Moon
Sit start under overhang with good left pinch and high right edge. Hard move to slot, then gain unique features on slab and topout into fern opening. FA: Callum Mather Set: Jared Tyerman | 4m | |||
★★ Slick, Quick and Thick proj.
Sit start on rock in left corner of overhang with central right edge layback, left sloper, and far right triangle feature foot. To high thin-edge gaston. With weird feet gain lip for mantle. Head up and right to fern opening for topout. Set: Jared Tyerman | 4m | ||||
V2 | ★ Storm Rider
Sit start on right edge and left good hold. Gain slightly higher feature then big move to good arete hold. Move left to positive lip then topout central lip. FA: Jared Tyerman, 13 Jul 2019 | 4m | |||
V5 | ★★ Cordiality
Sit start left corner of semi overhung face. Big feature, ultra thin edge, mid height edge, high sloper. Higher positive lip for topout. FA: Jared Tyerman, 13 Jul 2019 | 4m | |||
V4 | ★ Dirty B!%&#
Pretty awkward. Sit start under lip with thumb undercling and good triangle hold with far in foot. Goes to slopey hold, then high good pinch. Topout top prow. FA: Jared Tyerman, 18 Jul 2019 | 2m | |||
V0 | Pompeii
Low start. Use edges and smear then layback on large feature. Topout left of feature. (Add a sit start if you love real awkward movements. But has good feet for it). FA: Jared Tyerman & Abril Cavallo, 17 Jul 2019 | 2m | |||
V1 | Squillion
Sit start matched on thin edge. Use assortment of good features and small feet to topout on far right large juggy scoop. FA: Jared Tyerman, 17 Jul 2019 | 1m | |||
V0 | Upper Traverse
Sit/squat start on large feature (a move in from the start of LT) then get to holds on lip and traverse left along boulder to far corner. FA: Jared Tyerman & Jon Larrañaga, 18 Jul 2019 | 2m | |||
V2 | ★ Lower Traverse
Sit start on slopey edge and positive deep edge. Pop to large features then traverse right to left using predominantly edges. Stay in the middle height of the boulder, no lip holds. Topout top left corner of upstream side of boulder. FA: Jared Tyerman, 18 Jul 2019 | 2m | |||
V2 | ★★★ Necromancer
Sit start on lip vein edge and higher sloper. Gain good ledge then pop out to feature near prow. Climb up and around this to topout. FA: Jared Tyerman, 18 Jul 2019 | 3m | |||
North Cairns Barron Gorge Split Rock Area | |||||
V5 | ★★ Scarlet Witch
Stand start in the hole with RH high sidepull and LH low gaston. Up and right on crimps before coming back to the centre to mantle. FA: Callum Mather | 5m | |||
V5 | ★★ Bloodsucker
Start RH high on a flat three finger edge and LH low on a slopey three finger edge. Move left to an incut sidepull, sort your feet and launch for the lip. FA: Callum Mather | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Split Rock Left
Can either be done as a highball boulder or on top rope. | 6m | |||
V1 | ★ Split Rock Right
Can either be done as a highball boulder or on top rope. | 6m | |||
V0 | ★ Split Rock Groove
Rock behind you is not in. Can either be done as a highball boulder or on top rope. | ||||
V11 | ★★★ Super Princess Peach
Start matched on obvious flat hold. Tricky moves through slopey holds lead to tough move into the slot. Use small LH crimp to gain the big sloping rail, follow it left and up above questionable landing. Bush-bash to the top. Currently unclimbable due to recent flooding. The landing needs rebuilding. FA: Callum Mather | 6m | |||
★★ Cal's Line
Start as for Super Princess Peach but head up left through small crimps to finish as for Cam's Line. Currently unclimbable due to recent flooding. The landing needs rebuilding. | 6m | ||||
★★★ Cam's Line
Central problem on river side of Split Rock. Currently unclimbable due to recent flooding. The landing needs rebuilding. | 6m | ||||
V8 | ★★★ Storm Chasers
Starting from wobbly block in the corner of the rooflet, work out right and over the lip via slopey holds. The wobbly block recently came out, but the boulder will still go at a similar grade. FA: Glen Hayford, 24 Jan 2020 | 3m | |||
V12 | ★★ Storm Chasers Low
Start on LH pinch and RH undercling, up through shouldery dihedral before finishing as for storm chasers. The wobbly block recently came out, but the boulder will still go at a similar grade. FA: Callum Mather | 3m | |||
★★ Glen's Line
Start on the lowest, left-most undercling and do some burly moves before finishing as for Storm Chasers Low. The wobbly block recently came out, but the boulder will still go at a similar grade. | 3m | ||||
V6 | ★★ Cyclone Warning
Sit start on set of underlings, up on sidepulls and edges. FA: Callum Mather | 3m | |||
V10 | ★★★ The Last Of Us
Squat start on slopey edge and pinch, head up and left to a tricky lip encounter. FA: Callum Mather | 6m | |||
V6 | ★★★ The Departure
Begining on good holds at the far right arete, traverse left along the lip on the series of diminishing slopers. Pull through the crux at the crimps to gain the obvious flake in the middle of the lip. Tops out up the cruisy slab above the flake. Cameron Whycherley Callum Mather FA: Cameron Wycherley, 5 Mar 2019 | 5m | |||
V5 | ★★ Left of Centre
Begining on jugs in corner feature on the far left side of the face, traverse right using lip and holds on the face. Top out as for The Departure, above the obvious flake near the middle of the boulder. Cameron Whycherley Kieran Pates FA: Cameron Wycherley, 16 Mar 2019 | 5m | |||
V1 | LB
Sit start with obvious incut crimp rail on face. Up via edges and sloped topout. Lowball fun FA: Cameron Wycherley, 4 Nov 2018 | 2m | |||
V0 | Left line
A bit more pumpy than right, and a bigger move. Big foot is in. FA: Jared Tyerman & Andrew Dawia, 22 Jan 2019 | 2m | |||
V0 | Right line
Similar start as left, but trend right and then up. FA: Andrew Dawia & Jared Tyerman, 22 Jan 2019 | 2m | |||
V0 - 1 | ★ Little Blunt Arete
Sit start at the base of small arete with good holds. Up, trending slightly left. Short, but nice. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 4 Nov 2018 | 2m | |||
V4 | ★★★ Rooted Tabanidae
Work from good diagonal edges at roughly head height, up through and past good edges to slopers and undercling. Big move to jug for topout. Interesting finish! Finish might be harder if short. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 16 Feb 2019 | 4m | |||
V9 | ★★ Killer Queen
Start just under roof on good sidepull and undercling, work your way up and out through big moves on good holds. FA: Callum Mather | 4m | |||
V4 | ★★ Boofin' Tabs
An extended and alternative start for Rooted Tabanidae. From the good hold at lip of mini roof, in line with where the two large boulders meet, traverse left and into Rooted Tabanidae. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 16 Mar 2019 | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ Off with your wing
Off width crack through hand jams to more off width and spicy topout. FA: Jared Tyerman, 7 Jan 2019 | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Squish 'em
Start in corner with high sidepull jugs. Get established and make long move to the lip to topout. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 16 Feb 2019 | 3m | |||
V8 | ★★ Squashed
Start on LH crimp slot and deep RH two finger pocket. Up on pocket and crimps, finish as for Squish 'em. FA: Callum Mather | 3m | |||
★★★ Squashed into Oblivion Project
Link Squashed into Oblivion. | 4m | ||||
V6 | ★★ Oblivion
Start wide on sidepulls, throw a heel to reach edge before launching up to sidepull. Top out through the vines. FA: Callum Mather | 4m | |||
V3 | Slapping at Flies
Sit start matched on the sloped leaning arete. Follow arete up and R. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 10 Nov 2018 | 2m | |||
V2 | ★★ The Little Roof
Sit start under the low horizontal roof, starting matched on jug towards left end of ledge. Gain the lip and mantle. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 4 Nov 2018 | 2m | |||
V4 | ★ Spangled
Sit start with left hand blocky pinch, right hand angled, incut edge. Up through gaston and crimp, topping out above. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 26 Aug 2022 | 3m | |||
V2/3 | ★★ Angle of the Dangle
Start low, on sloped holds near right side arete. Up through blocky features. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 4 Nov 2018 | 2m | |||
V0 | Overcast
Stand start with good right hand sidepull and high left hand jug. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 4 Nov 2018 | 2m | |||
V3 | Grey Scale
Follow sloped, left leaning arete, starting low. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 4 Nov 2018 | 2m | |||
V0 - 2 | ★ Sassy Sloth
Traverse upstream to downsteam on good ledge using high feet (heels and toes) for V1. Another alternative is smear along the face making it a bit pumpier to V2 maybe. Is a lot easier using the lower slab though for feet making it V0. FA: Jared Tyerman, 22 Jan 2019 | 2m | |||
V0 | ★ Slab 1
Up shallow slab, starting off the left most small boulder at base. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 10 Nov 2018 | 4m | |||
V0 | ★★ Slab 2
Up shallow slab, starting just left of small tree at base. Cruisy and pleasant, nice beginner line. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 10 Nov 2018 | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Slab 3
Up the slab, starting just to the right of small tree. A slightly trickier start. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 10 Nov 2018 | 4m | |||
V0 | Slab 4
Sit start near right end of slab with good sidepull slot. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 10 Nov 2018 | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★ Dusk
Classic. Stand start in middle of face with opposing sidepulls. Up into sloping pocket and mantle on sloped lip. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 4 Nov 2018 | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ Venus
Start with RH in obvious slot in middle of face. Up and slightly left through interesting high pocket/pinch, and topping out on the sloped lip. A little reachy. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 18 Nov 2018 | 3m | |||
V8 | ★★ Wandering Albatross
Start low matched on deep scoop in bottom left corner of boulder. Move right via big moves and finish as for Venus. Currently unclimbable due to recent flooding. Would need to dig out the new landing to access the start holds. FA: Callum Mather | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★ Until the Sun's Reborn
Stand start matched jug in middle of face. Gain the sloping the arete and pull a big move to holds up high, topping out slightly left. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 10 Nov 2018 | 3m | |||
V0 | ★★ Seeking Light
Sit start in the corner, low on the arete. Follow sloped arete up and L to better holds up high. A very nice easy line. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 10 Nov 2018 | 3m | |||
V6 | Memory Wipe
Stand start with low RH undercling jug and mid-height LH undercling. Establish and make a big move to just below lip before mantling. Just left of Achilles Heel. FA: Callum Mather | 2m | |||
V5 | Achilles' Heel
Burly lowballin'.. Start sitting and matched on obvious low sidepull, towards right side of face, above the small buried boulder. Climbs directly up. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 18 Nov 2018 | 2m | |||
V0 | ★★ Sweet Lips
Start on sloped edge and sidepull. Work to edges and layback to get to topout at left corner of boulder. Currently unclimbable due to recent flooding. A large tree fell right in front of the boulder. FA: Jared Tyerman & Abril Cavallo, 4 Jul 2019 | 2m | |||
V0 | ★★ Mega Babe
Super friendly and lovely beginner line. Stand start with good undercling pocket, under the roof, in the corner. Climb up and left following the leaning seam. A sit start can be added, bumping up the grade a little. Currently unclimbable due to recent flooding. A large tree fell right in front of the boulder. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 4 Nov 2018 | 2m | |||
V4 | Facial
Starting as for Mega Babe, climb directly up through crimps on face. Currently unclimbable due to recent flooding. A large tree fell right in front of the boulder. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 4 Nov 2018 | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ Turtality
Starting as for Mega Babe on underclings, climb through the mini roof. Currently unclimbable due to recent flooding. A large tree fell right in front of the boulder. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 4 Nov 2018 | 3m | |||
Accident
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North Cairns Barron Gorge Downstream Mountain Side | |||||
V5 | ★ Eternal Gratitude
SS on jug, traverse left on crimps before following the arete right and up. FA: Callum Mather & Kieran Pates | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ Momentary Gratitude
SS on jug, straight up on crimps. FA: Callum Mather & Kieran Pates | 3m | |||
V3 | Weight Class
SS on edge, throw for lip. FA: Callum Mather | 1m | |||
North Cairns Barron Gorge Calmer Waters | |||||
V3 | Doob
Sit start at base of subtle arete on upstream side of boulder. Up arete via good slot. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 27 Aug 2018 | 2m | |||
V4 | ★ Grime
Sit start, low under the boulder, on the low scoop (below the biggest scoop feature). Up through interesting features, topping out directly. Note: Starting on the bottom of the largest scoop makes for an easier V2 version. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 23 Aug 2018 | 2m | |||
V5 | ★★ Genesis
Starting as for Grime, keep low and traverse R. Big move to high right scoop and topping out. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 23 Aug 2018 | 2m | |||
V2/3 | ★★ Back Pocket
Sit start with great layback jug in middle of face. Up via long moves on nice holds. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 23 Aug 2018 | 2m | |||
V3 | ★★ Ants in your Pants
Sit start on RH end of boulder with LH small pocket. Directly up. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 23 Aug 2018 | 2m | |||
V1 | Arete
Start sitting with blocky layback feature on LH arête. Follow arête up and R, topping out at highest point. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 23 Aug 2018 | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Basket of Fern
Crouch start with great blocky edge for RH in middle of face. Head up, trending slightly L to top out amongst the ferns. Sit start same grade. Left hand is 1 lower. Right is the same at a reach. FA: Cameron Wycherley, Aug 2018 | 3m | |||
V5 | ★ Swinging Ferns
Start as for Swingers staying below the lip traverse into Basket of Fern and top from here. FA: 20 Jul 2020 | ||||
V5 | ★★ Swingers
Sit start on top of the rocky drop off with RH crimp sidepull and assortment of features for L. Long move to small, hollow sounding flake/edge, into crimp sidepull/pinch and up via shallow holds before topping out directly on good holds further back. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 23 Aug 2018 | 3m | |||
V1 | ★★ Riverside Warmup
A real warmup, taking the full brunt of the afternoon sun. Sit start and up via series of interesting pockets, jugs and slopers. A few variations probably exist. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 11 Aug 2018 | 2m | |||
V3 | ★ Casuarina Ballerina
A slightly awkward sit start at the far L end of boulder leads up and R along leaning arête, into obvious layback edge on face and a long move to lip. Continue traversing R to mantle at tip. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 11 Aug 2018 | 3m | |||
V9 | ★★ The Nutcracker
Sit start under arete with good LH edge and slopey RH crimp. Compress your way up the arete before making hard throw for RH edge under lip. Finish as for Black Swan. FA: Callum Mather | 2m | |||
V4 | ★ Arabesque
Start on the block that holds the whole boulder up, and link into Black Swan via a big span on underclings. FA: Callum Mather | 2m | |||
V5 | ★★ Black Swan
Located on the opposite side of boulder from Casuarina Ballerina. Stand start on okay hold, right hand side of road side face, just right of arete. Traverse left on holds along lower lip. From the holds in the centre of the lip, at the thin vertical crack, stay low and make a big move to the left hand apex of boulder, topping out here. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 10 Aug 2019 | 3m | |||
V6 | ★ Swan Sit
Sit start to Black Swan. Start on low slopey diagonal edges, and move into the start of Black Swan. FA: Callum Mather | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Bollocks
Squat start with sloper and solid but detatched small block at base of obvious blocky feature on LH end of face. Directly up over apex. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 11 Aug 2018 | 3m | |||
V7 | ★ Silver Lining
Sit start with good RH crimp and flat LH sidepull. Move left to good blocky edge and use either this or the pinch above to move out right to crimp before going to good hold below lip. Top out straight up. FA: Callum Mather | 3m | |||
V4 | Zip Lining
Start on good LH edge and RH crimp. Big move up to good hold below lip. Top out straight up. FA: Callum Mather | 2m | |||
V2 | ★ Phyllanthus Arete
A slightly squished sit start amongst the Phyllanthus, low and at the RH end of arête, leads up and L, following arête onto good edge on face. Top out above. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 11 Aug 2018 | 3m | |||
V2 | Traverse
As uninspiring as the name suggests, but interesting enough for a warmup. Sit start at far LH end of long, low face on sidepull. Traverse R along series of poo sloping holds at lip and slick feet. Top out at far R end. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 11 Aug 2018 | 2m | |||
V2 | Pop a Squat
Sit start on L face of boulder with obvious low sidepull. One move wonder to the good holds, then cruise up the slab. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 11 Aug 2018 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★★ Bear Hug
– Sit start at base of slab/arête on obvious RH rail and LH pocket. Directly up via good holds and fun compression moves. Good exposure to the style at an achievable grade. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 11 Aug 2018 | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ Mono Lisa
Sit start towards centre of boulder with obvious jug in pocket for LH. Pull into and get established on mono pocket and sidepull before throwing for jugs and matching at the lip. Choss pile top out optional. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 21 Oct 2018 | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ Broccoli
Crouch start from RH end of boulder, RH on arête, rail for LH. Traverse L following rail, into slot, and topping out at LH side. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 21 Aug 2018 | 2m | |||
V9 | ★★★ Bodega
Sit start in back of cave in ‘corner’ with pair of slots in crack. Follow crack up and to corner then out to cave's perimeter via big move. Work to top via series of holds along lip. Top out using upper slab holds. FA: Callum Mather, 4 Sep 2020 | 3m | |||
★★★ Corner Store Project
Start as for Night Owl but finish up the steep arete. | 4m | ||||
V10 | ★★★ Lowdega
Start under roof to the right of the seam on an undercling and low left facing edge. Join the crack via a big lock off move and finish as for Bodega. FA: Callum Mather | ||||
V9 | ★★ Night Owl
Sit start under roof on an undercling and low left facing edge. Out via good rail to a big move from the sloper into TOA, finish as for this. FA: Callum Mather | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Toker of Appreciation
Stand start above the rock on the ground, with good blocky sidepull feature in middle of face. Up via lovely climbing, on surprise jugs. If only it were longer. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 11 Apr 2018 | 3m | |||
V3 | Sharma's Warmup
Sit start under rooflet with LH hold and RH on the flat slopey hold, up through small crimp. FA: suhas sharma | 2m | |||
V2 | ★ Culled
Deserving of more stars if only longer. Sit start with good low RH scoop and left edge. Pull a solid move to holds up and L, over the bulge and top out above alongside tree roots. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 21 Aug 2018 | 2m | |||
V2 | ★ Relic
Same scooping start hold as for Culled but go directly up. 2 edges and 2-3 slopers. Topout without using tree roots. FA: Jared Tyerman, 8 May 2019 | 2m | |||
V3 | ★ A the way things is
Sit start under the overhung arete with sidepull on face for RH. Up and onto face to easy top out. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 9 Oct 2018 | 3m |