Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Central Agnes Waters Town of 1770 The Death Boulders | |||||
V3 | ★ Supedywoopdoop
Sit start (no pad stacks!) low on the slopey arete. Trend left up the face to the top. Heady. FA: Mitch Woodward | ||||
V4 | ★ Gone North
Sit start on arete, compress with Rh slopey sidepull, Lh 2 finger pocket. Make a bunched move then cruise to the top. FA: Oliver Rickford, Aug 2022 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★★ Bobstay Timber
Sit start on two crimps directly under bulge of the prow, heading straight up to mantle. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ Lacing Timber
Sit start both hands on obvious bowl feature, head up and left to mantle out as for Bobstay. | 3m | |||
Lacing Timber Direct
Start as per Lacing Timber, but stay direct and shoot to the top. | 4m | ||||
V2 | ★ The Redeemer
Start on blocky jug at the back of the overhanging block. Trend right through overhang using pockets and underclings. Mantle right side of the arete. FA: unknow | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Sailor Jerry
Sit start on two sidepull crimps, continuing straight up. Only accessible on medium-low tide. FA: Mitch Woodward | 2m | |||
Jaggameister sit
Hard compression bloc with knivesharp right crimps. | 3m | ||||
V3 | ★★ Jaggameister
Nice arete traverse right-upward and then easy mantle. Video beta: http://tinyurl.com/mpjmppx Once you arrive at the end of the descent, turn left towards the bigger boulders next to the shore. Jaggameister Boulder can be reached through a mini-canyon/cave/tunnel between two other bigger boulders. I made the FA without a crash pad, hence I was very cautious, that is why I propose V3 max. It might even be that with appropriate protection the difficulty level is lower, maybe V2? There is the possibility for a sit-start extension. FA: Corrado Bracciolo, 7 Aug 2014 | 5m | |||
V2 | ★ Paper thin
Up white wall and out through disquieting holds to top You are responsible for your own safety FA: Luke Forrester, 2021 | 5m | |||
★★ The Death Boulder
Around the corner from paper thin. Sit start on crimps, up long moves to credit cards, then trend left to top. Like climbing above a pit of knives. Good quantity and quality of moves | 5m | ||||
★★★ White Whale proj
The mega proj. Hard granite roof squeezing next to the crashing ocean. Plan for mid to low tide. Sit start low with a heel hook out right. Two obvious halves, the stand could be v8/v9 on its own, and the sit adds many compression moves on slopers Bring lots of pads. | |||||
★★ White Whale stand
Stand start on obvious jug. Squeeze your way up and out to the right. | |||||
Central Agnes Waters Town of 1770 Beach | |||||
VB+ | Chumbawamba
Accessed from the beach, up the less featured section of the rock to mantle onto the shelf to access slow meat pie. FA: Tom James, 3 Oct 2020 | 5m | |||
Central Agnes Waters | |||||
V0 | The Endeavour | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★★ Garrigarrang | 3m | |||
Central Cania Gorge Lazy Ledges | |||||
V3 | ★★★ The Quila
The fun short roof handcrack below The Quila Climb. Makes an awesome linkup. FFA: Alex Mougenot & Kwan Goddard-Lee, Jul 2015 | 4m | |||
Central Byfield The Fortress Jibaro | |||||
V1 | Facefullabush
Akward rough and done without grace. The first ascent came after a long session attempting to complete cleanly, then giving up and slithering up using my face and stomach as additional mantle points. Some good footwork and potential to extend with a moderate traverse or extremely difficult sit start in the cave. | ||||
North Cooktown Finch Bay By Hook or By Crook Boulder | |||||
V0 | By Hook
Around the corner from Descent, layback the easy corner. FFA: Chris Glastonbury, 9 Aug 2014 | ||||
V0 | Descent
Easy right tending crackline. FFA: Chris Glastonbury, 9 Aug 2014 | ||||
V3 | By Crook
Up the slab on the right side of the boulder next to the chimney. FFA: Chris Glastonbury, 9 Aug 2014 | ||||
North Cooktown Finch Bay North side | |||||
V2 | whale watcha
stand start on opposing side pulls, move through good edges to the top. FA: arlen breeze, 19 Aug 2020 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ Tree tops
stand start on side pull and pocket big move to rail, move up crimps for a spooky finish. FA: arlen breeze, 19 Aug 2020 | 5m | |||
North Cairns Barron Gorge The Boulder Field | |||||
V2 | ★★ Barrel Rock
FA: Andrew Dawia | 2m | |||
V2 | ★★ Mentle Repetition
Sit start fully under boulder matched on good edge, move to lip and mantle, reach for roof above and mantle again. FA: Jared Tyerman, 26 May 2019 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Unnamed 1 | 2m | |||
V1 | Filling in the Blanks
Start on wobbly jug, up and mantle. FA: Callum Mather | 2m | |||
V1 | Unnamed 2 | 2m | |||
V0 - 1 | ★★ Point Blank Slab
Stand start at pocket and good undercling, smear up to good crack and edges to work to top lip. Also an easier variation left of the line. FA: Jared Tyerman, 26 May 2019 | 4m | |||
V0 - 1 | ★ Locked In Hard
Stand start low with two positive underclings and good low feet, slap for lip and mantle FA: Jared Tyerman & Andrew Dawia, 26 May 2019 | 3m | |||
V0 | Trigger
Stand/squat start with low edge, gain sidepull and lip and topout. FA: Jared Tyerman & Andrew Dawia, 26 May 2019 | 2m | |||
V1 | ★ Splish Splash
Start squatted with two smears and underclings. Gain sidepull and throw/reach for good lip holds. Steadily get on up to topout. FA: Jared Tyerman, 26 May 2019 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★★ Pop goes the greasel
Start standing with two good edges and high left foot and right heel. Work to right high crack/rail near plant and pop up over the lip. Stellar line as dyno from right of start but the start hold popped (has one remaining but is more difficult). FA: Jared Tyerman, 26 May 2019 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ What's My Style | 4m | |||
V5 | ★ Unnamed 3
Compression, bumps, heel, mantle. Located just in front of Radiation Wall. | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ Breeze Frame
Stand start, balance your way up the left side of the arete. FA: Callum Mather | 4m | |||
V6 | ★★ Banana Split
Stand start on two edges above your head. Go up through sharp sidepull crimp and mantle left on slightly better holds. FA: Callum Mather | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ Edge to edge
Stand start L of arete. Move from large edges through blank flace using small crimps and arete to gain high features near lip. FA: Jared Tyerman, 15 Oct 2017 | 5m | |||
V3 | ★ High Rise
Harder if short.. Move through large edges, high small crimp and sidepull feature where flake used to be. FA: Cameron Wycherley, Oct 2017 | 5m | |||
V3/4 | ★★★ Thunder King
Stand start on with obvious ledges. Move up to good edges and into high undercling. Possibly a little height dependent FA: Cameron Wycherley, 15 Oct 2017 | 5m | |||
V3/4 | Hydro Powered Hippie
Sit start at base of arete on blocky features, up through small slopey edges and better features up high. FA: Cameron Wycherley, Oct 2017 | 3m | |||
V2/3 | ★ Crack Den
Sit start with low big edge and move up through crack feature. FA: Cameron Wycherley, Oct 2017 | 3m | |||
V2/3 | ★ Finger lockin' chockin
Sit start low, moving up into crack feature with finger locks and cool windy moves. FA: Cameron Wycherley, Oct 2017 | 3m | |||
Unnamed 4 | |||||
V2/3 | One Armed Bear Hug
Start low and matched on pocket. Head out left to an awkward finish on slopers. (History as One Armed Bear Hug V2- unknown FA name, was called Awkward Top (V3) as an assumed FA by Cameron before we saw youtube video of this) | 2m | |||
V2 | ★★ Sneaky Frog
Sit start matched on pocket as for adjacent route. Move through the steepness up R on pockets and good holds. A nice easy line to get a taste of some overhung goodness. | 2m | |||
V3 | ★ Middle Ground
Similar to Sneaky Frog except instead of veering right, go directly up through the middle. Neatly placed yet oddly angled holds. FA: Jared Tyerman | 2m | |||
V1 | Afro Senderguy
| 3m | |||
V0 | Day's End Send
Short easy corner near the waterfall's location on the right side of the gorge. | ||||
★★★ Arete proj
Squeeze up the slopey arete. | 5m | ||||
V3 | ★★★ Shallow Grave
Find a way to pull on without getting your feet wet and head straight up on wacky slopey holds before doing a committing move to the victory jug. FA: Callum Mather | 5m | |||
V2 | ★★ Sliding Down That Hill
Sit start with awesome pinch, up arete to mantle on the right side. FA: Callum Mather | 2m | |||
V4 | ★★ A Deal With The Devil
Start on the right side of the arete with RH crimp and LH sloper with toehooks on the awesome pinch. Work your toes up the arete and throw for jug. FA: Callum Mather | 2m | |||
V0 | Huey
Establish on the slab with RH edge and work your way up. FA: Callum Mather | 3m | |||
V0 | Dewey
Establish on slab with LH edge and work your way up. FA: Callum Mather | 3m | |||
V0 | Louie
Stand up to crimp rail and work your way up. FA: Callum Mather | 4m | |||
VB | ★ Donald's Arete
Stand start, up right side of arete. FA: Callum Mather | 3m | |||
V0 | Evil Arete
Sit start at the base of the arete, do a couple moves and mantle at the juggy bit. FA: Callum Mather | 3m | |||
V8 | ★★ Malevolent Forces
Sit start crossed on diagonal crimps. Make your way left and up on a series of diagonal edges and an underling. FA: Callum Mather | 4m | |||
V5 | ★★ Spick and Stand
Start on the good RH edge and the small LH crimp. Up to the edge in the face, then head through comfy slopers. FA: Callum Mather | 3m | |||
V8 | ★★★ Spick and Span
Sit start with slopey edge low on arete and the hold just above big undercling. Slap slap slap and finish as for the stand start. FA: Callum Mather | 3m | |||
V1 | ★★★ Teotihuacán
Sit start, up through slick jugs to the top. Excellent. | 8m | |||
V3 | ★★ Pyramid Scheme
Start low on big jug, move left and up through sidepulls and jugs. Up arete to mantle. FA: Callum Mather | 5m | |||
V5 | ★★ Smooth Groove
Mantle goodness!! Sit start on opposing side pulls in centre of face. Make a long move to the diagonal edge, then push to crack before a committing mantle high off the deck, on the smoooooth sloping ramp. Variant finish: Continue traversing R along top slopey edge to top out at arete (to be done). Note: Sit start added 9/7/18 by Hugo Leroy. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 15 Oct 2017 | 4m | |||
V2/3 | ★★ Lofi
Start on two obvious slopey features on side face of boulder. Move into jug and traverse up and L along slopey edges to top out at highest point. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 15 Oct 2017 | 5m | |||
V2 | ★ Mental Mantle
Stand start at obvious ledge. High step and mantle to gain high features near lip. Avoid features on lower arete. FA: Cameron Wycherley, Oct 2017 | 4m | |||
V6 | ★★ Crystal Meth
Sit start with small LH sidepull crimp and RH crimp. Up through cystal crimp features, to flake. Top out out on series of shallow slopey holds. FA: Cameron Wycherley, Oct 2017 | 4m | |||
V3 | ★ Meth Lab
Start as for CM the trend out left to good holds and come back in to same top as CM. Fun easier alternative to CM. FA: Jared Tyerman, 11 Jul 2019 | 4m | |||
V1/2 | ★ Left problem
Sit start mini layback, head up into thumb press and pop to edge pinch. Gain lip and topout. These climbs are located on the 2nd wall to the right of MM & CM. FA: Jared Tyerman, 12 Jul 2019 | 2m | |||
V0 | Mid problem
Sit start on holds as layback, press up into higher white vein ledge then traverse into large flake/layback. Gain lip and topout. FA: Jared Tyerman & Abril Cavallo, 12 Jul 2019 | 2m | |||
V1 | Right Problem
Start on right arete/featured corner (near the large beaten up metal cart) with jug feature and right sloper feature. Get up to white vein mini ledge/edge and get to high hold/lip for topout. FA: Jared Tyerman, 12 Jul 2019 | 2m | |||
V1/2 | ★ Lowbrow
Sit start at arete and move through good holds up and R. Top out high FA: Cameron Wycherley, 15 Oct 2017 | 4m | |||
V2/3 | ★★ Highbrow
Start with series of jugs, heading up before making long moves through the blank section to holds near the lip. Top out at high point. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 15 Oct 2017 | 5m | |||
V3/4 | ★ Boomerang
Sit start, moving directly up from the obvious good edge, through the prominent boomerang shaped feature, to top out on crimps over the lip. FA: Hugo Leroy, 9 Jul 2018 | 5m | |||
V2/3 | Unnamed 5
FA: Hugo Leroy, 9 Jul 2018 | 4m | |||
V6 | ★ Rowing from Squamish
Sit start at base of arete with RH crimp sidepull, and LH crimp on main face. Pull a long move into crimp pocket on face before using good hold to gain sloping ledge for topout. FA: Hugo Leroy, 9 Jul 2018 | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Waddle Waddle
Stand start, up arete and mantle on the right side. FA: Callum Mather | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ Clean crimpin'
On the clean vertical face approximately 1.5m to the right of the obvious corner crack, through series of pocketed crimps. Good clean face climbing. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 8 Jul 2018 | 4m | |||
V0 | Corner Crack
Stem your way up the crack. | 4m | |||
V8 | ★★ Weeping Angel
Start in the corner, move left and finish up arete. Trust those feet! FA: Callum Mather | 4m | |||
V5 | ★★★ Your pad or your life
Compression climbing directly up the prominent fridge feature. FA: Hugo Leroy, 9 Jul 2018 | 4m | |||
V6 | ★★★ Sanctuary
Sweet slappin'! Hug your way up the immaculate fridge feature. FA: Callum Mather | 6m | |||
V2 | Breezy Mantle
Start on slopers, big move to jug and mantle. FA: arlen breeze | 2m | |||
V5 | ★ Crocodile Wrestler
Start in jug scoop, throw a heel and wrestle your way up on slopers to mantle. FA: Callum Mather | 3m | |||
V1 | Short and Sour
Sit start, cruisy juggin'. FA: Callum Mather & arlen breeze | 2m | |||
V3 | Short and Sweet
Start low under the bulge, slap your way up. FA: Callum Mather & arlen breeze | 2m | |||
V3 | ★★ A Puddle about Belief
Start with pinch and undercling on arete, up and left through edges to a tricky mantle. FA: Callum Mather | 3m | |||
V7 | ★ Civil Unrest
Start matched on the low rail, straight up through board style goodness. FA: Callum Mather | 3m | |||
V6 | ★★ Ripple Effect
Start at head height on lowest set of good slots, go up right to edge then left to pinch. Move back right on good slopers and mantle. FA: Callum Mather | 3m | |||
V1 | ★★★ Streamline
Stand start with pocket and jug, up through the deceiving wall of faux jugs. FA: Callum Mather | 4m | |||
★★ Dyno Project
Big committing dyno. Would need to build a landing but it's rad. | 4m | ||||
V6 | ★ Tadpole
Start in the middle of the roof on good edges. Move up and left to finish on RH edge and LH sloper with a left knee-bar in. FA: Callum Mather | 3m | |||
V11 | ★★ Amphibian
Start low on undercling, puzzle your way through the steep and finish as for Tadpole. FA: Callum Mather | 6m | |||
V8 | ★ Leap Frog
Start on set of small crimps, traverse left through big moves on good edges, then finish as for Tadpole. FA: Callum Mather | 5m | |||
V6 | ★ Bull Frog
Start on set of small crimps, move up and right through shouldery climbing, finish on undercling. FA: Callum Mather | 4m | |||
V8 | ★★★ Decompression Sickness
Start low on the arete and on lowest good edge in the steep, compress your way through the sickness to glory. FA: Callum Mather | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ A Breeze
Sit start on obvious edge, traverse left through crimps, big move to jugs, then mantle. FA: arlen breeze | 4m | |||
V5 | ★★★ Barron Gorgeous
Start low on sloping edge and arete, work your way up the arete via big moves and mantle when you hit the scoop up top. Great boulder with a great backdrop. Avoid the detached block at the bottom. FA: Callum Mather | 3m | |||
V2 | ★★★ Trust Issues
Start up the juggy ramp before taking some deep breaths and trusting your feet as you traverse right and up to gain the arete and top out. FA: Callum Mather | 9m | |||
VB | ★★★ Godslayer
Start in the hole near the water and begin the long journey up this committing, scenic and excellent highball slab. FA: Callum Mather | 14m |