Routes as boulder in Queensland

Great easy problem on the obvious cracked egg shaped boulder. Up finger crack, down hand crack. You can also traverse right from the base of the down-climb hand crack to the face right of the finger crack, which is fun.

As from 'Nom Nom Nom' but then head right to a cool pinch and up.

Tricky little problem from hard sit start to horrible mantle high up.

Start to the right of bowling ball

Sit start in vertical flake/corner feature. Powerful moves up to slopers, finishing matched on the horizontal rail- up and left.

Easy warm up. Do it with no hands at V2.

Right of arete with tech, layback compression moves. Sit start left hand with wobbly side pull, right hand low on side pull. Just the right height with a good landing.

Start in the centre of where the plate use to be, using the good crimps it left around its perimeter to go up.

Start 1m right of 12. Hands start high and slap R for the lip

Previously established classic long traverse going left from the side pull left of Miami Slicer around bulge (Crux) and along easy jug line staying low for full value to corner - V2 for the round trip. Underclings only version an open project.

Start one hand on jug-crimp-flake below the lip at the lowest point of the cave, and the other on the face-sloper, throwing up and right ( toward the other end of the cave) to gain a decent ledge. Traverse along the reverse of Alfred to the centre and make the throw to the Bane jug.

Sit-start in ceiling crack to a R semi-gaston and crimpy undercling to progress to the small jug ledge. From here you will work through the face crimps to end on the high flat ledge (matched). This is an original Darren line; we added a sit-start for a wonderful and flowing rooflet section.

Standing start on RHS of big octopus as looking at from within gap between boulders

The traverse.

With a recent send from Jackson, a new grade of v5 is proposed which after talking with Glen could be true. Originally was FA'd in the middle of summer in the sun, whereas Jackson's send was in the cooler months and at dusk. A few more sends will help solidify the grade!

Sit start. Left hand on good edge 10cm left of big cobble. Right hand 60cm to right of big cobble on slopey edge with small inset slopey cobble. Head straight up to large sidepull and then left into angled slopey rail.

1m left of SSM. Sitting start, lunging moves to mantle

Sit start in the tube, start right on the lowest crimp-ledge-pinch of the vertical seam, and left on the big sloper-ledge, traverse along the low crimp-seam across the front of the cave into the second half of Bane.

On the back of the Mantle Training Area Boulder. Starts low on a big bump. Cool little problem.

Up the obvious flake arête. Standing start off small blocks, step up to small underclings then follow the flake right. A good problem.

Climb the sharp arete with tricky mantle and awkward footholds.

Right hand sidepull on face. Left hand on jug around corner. Feet on low jugs on face. Head up trending left around arete.

Peter Crane's boulder that starts at the jug for "Ride the Saddle, Extended" but goes to the right, along the seam.

Left of Creepy Crawler: Start with feet on bottom of the Boulder with hands anywhere low except the Creepy Crawler crack, that is out. Scramble up and over, try aim for the indent V left of the Creepy Crawler crack.

Left hand on good undercling. Right hand out wide for sidepull. Feet kinda pinching on low vertical edge. Straight up.

Powerful problem off juggy undercling flake on steep undercut wall of boulder. Start crouched off undercling and crimp. Dynamically up.

Starts slightly on the right hand side under the obvious overhanging prow. Jump up to the lip to a sloper and mantle to the scoop. See also "Mike Delta X-Ray Variant"

Right to left canyon traverse - No lip for the grade. V0 with the lip.

Start just right of Naughts and crosses. Stick to the scoop and right side of arete. Excellent technical and powerful moves.

Tim Nicholson

Start in between 'Climb 13' & 'Climb 14', using ledge to balance/throw to the top and mantle out.

Back wall in the boulders facing towards Arcadia. Stand start with flake side pull. Straight up. Pulling on is the highlight.

Nice little slab which is great for a warm up. Use the arete and your balance.

Sit start the right arete with a high LH side pull and low undercling. Straight up!

Sit start 3m left of Beta Blocka start under small rooflet on protruding good fin and crimps around it. Punch straight up to jug the traverse right along crack line. Line goes up diagonally right to ok left gaston crimp and then face crimps of Beta Blocka and straight to jug to finish.

Edmund

Swing start dyno (start with one foot on the wall and jump) using right-hand on arete, to jug.

Starts at It's a Boy, and traverses out right, topping out on the back of the boulder, to the L of Baby Bump.

Sit start under the roof on crimps.

Links the start of "These aren't the jugs you are looking for" into the crux of Tuscan Raider - slightly easier than TR.

Start in break under rooflet. Either crimp your way out or reach up to pocket on head wall. Head straight up to finish matched slopey jug under next rooflet. Might be harder for people with T-Rex arms.

C3 in Dazza's guide.

Start as for Overhead Transparency but half way up the fridge bust left and up the poopy slab.

Sit-start with both hands on obvious edge and up via slopes and crimps to a good finishing jug. Watch the spikey block underneath!

Start at small ceiling crack and work your way through jugs, a mega pinch and crimps for a mad dyno finish. This problem is a matched finish on the obvious flat ledge.

Technical face and arete, staying right of the arete. Better than it looks.

"Squeezed in" But done as its own line. Starts to the right of SIAS. Start in a sit start on a broken rail and blast up.

Start on small edge and go straight up to mantle

Stay low off undercling, with long reach to good sidepull, then balancy traverse moves through more slopers.

Sit start as per Alright! But trending up to the left to top out.

Tends to seep.

Whale Wash but start matched low on the rail.

Oliver Rickford

Sit start on small crimps then work left onto the large crack.

Start by climbing through a giant hueco on the right side of the cave and then straight up to mantle.

Sit start. L hand sloper, R hand blocky pinch. Feet on shelf underneath. Hard grunt to get up then R foot to low R footer and up via sidepulls.

Sit start at the round arete. One strenuous move off the ground brings you to the jug beneath the small roof.

Sit started on large flat hold. Straight up to crimp and cool set of pockets, then up to a large ledge. The top involves a funky mono sinker and a breezy mantle.

A fun little boulder problem, only two tricky moves if you have a good reach other wise there is three. After the first three moves the rest is a breeze and when your done you can cool off in the ocean.

Up the slab using feet only, don't dab your elbow on the top out for a glorious send.

Up the North side.

Sit start on whatever holds you can use just right of the arete. Up to the bomber horizontal crack and top out.

Chimney out from under the boulders

Stand stant with wide compression, tick tak to victory.

Nice layback arête to small stance, finish with dyno or not.

Start directly below the tree (Rh side of the arete) with high left hand sloper/ pinch & right hand on the juggy sidepull, traverse left around the bulge and finish as per Memento Mori.

Sit start at base of subtle overhung arete on the lowest sloping ledge. Move up through next sloped ledge, before gaining high features on the face and mantling to top out.

A little gem of a climb - Powerful, steep climbing on good edges. Sit start under the clean 40* overhung face, matched on the low good edge. Power up the steepness on incut edges and top out. Reminiscent of a powerful steep woody problem.

Sit start from the large pocket, left to a crimp then tricky pulling on mediocre holds, traversing left then up for a hard mantle.

Start right of brave heart In the obvious corner, straight up to exciting slopey top out.

Stand start with your right hand on small knob, then and up left to a diagonal ledge. Shares holds with 'Broken Plate'.

Sit start on rail and mantle out. Don't use the 'Egg' boulder behind you.

Start matched on the low sloping jug. Line of least resistance takes you around its jaw where you grab his eyebrows and slap him in the face to mantle. Great beginner problem! Chockstones are out.

3d in guide. Layback up the beautiful thin crack on the face. Marvellous

Face 1.5 metres left of the arete. Now with a missing hold which has increased the grade. Up via some tricky moves, moving onto the arete for the top half. (Grade has been raised from V2 -V3 to reflect difficulty increase.)

Both hands start on large obvious edge. Right foot on ground level jug. Straight up

Stand start for an easy mantel.

Both hands on lip above head high. Feet on obvious knee height shelf. Gain the top using two quality edges on top.

Start inside of small cave on a massive ledge, work outwards and into the crack. Head to the start of the cave and finish upwards.

Be careful of spiders and other deadly creatures dwelling in the hole!

Starting as per AETSS, but traversing left along the lip up the hill.

Start just L of 'Humped' on wall edges and throw to rail with L hand. Mantle out.

Start just L of Juggy and good holds all the way up.

Jump start to the high crimp. campus your way up to the pocket and from there get your feet back on and top out. Short and powerful! Crazy idea by Zach Tesiram which worked nicely

Balancy face climbing starting at the obvious curving flake. Up and then right to top out.

See also the variant "Jason's Problem Low Start"

Start start the positive pockets and move up.

Sit start. Throw to large hold from small holds then easy exit.

Sit start matching the small crimp rail in the roof. 2 strenuous moves to gain the roof lip. A tricky turn of the lip helps you reach the break from where once established the final moves are straightforward for the brave!

Hand stack the crack and hang for 10 seconds (no feet). Will be easier for the crack connoisseurs. Originally graded V4 but probably better at a V3. It's a strange one, add a personal grade! Similar to Zilch in The Rain Cave at Brooyar.

Another excellent technical arete starting from lowest level at the ground.

Sit-start on barely there holds, moving left into mono's and finish on jug below ferns.

Stand start bottom L, move up and R on crimps and jugs. Do not use “Curved Arête” boulder.

Same start as August Ames’ Traverse but move straight up the juggy rail to a crux mantle.

Good underclings but not much for feet, somehow pull on and then throw to a decent jug and then easy after that.

Start from the undercling and pocket in the cave and do some technical moves into daily high.

Stand start. Right hand moderately high in slopey crack. Left hand far left on opposing sloper divot. Right foot on prominent footer. Establish. Avoid excessively padding the rock on the ground as this makes establishing easier. Head straight up. An alternate start on small crimpy chockstones may be possible.

Start sitting, then move up the crack before moving right on some small edges to get to the lip. Be careful mantling out.

Climb the off width crack that splits the centre of the wall to a scrunchy top out.

Start at Groover, then traverse right across slopers and top out to the right of the ferns. Looks impossible, but believe!

1m left of “Slip Toe Ridge”. A short slab.