A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Bruce Taylor Alex Mougenot David Jefferson Peatey Iain Hunter Brendan Heywood Gus Mckelvie Ryan Adrian Corvino Sunny
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1. Eighth Boulder / #8 16 in Boulder
- 2. Index by grade
1. Eighth Boulder 16 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
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All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -27.543757, 153.047727
access issues
'Toohey Forest' is owned by the Brisbane City Council. It's an important habitat for 400 plants and animals, and is very popular with walkers, joggers and picnicking families. Therefore the usual rules of taking out your rubbish, keeping noise to a minimum, cleaning any chalk marks and so on are particularly important here if climbing is to remain an acceptable activity in the eyes of the community.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
★ Short Stack
This problem is located on the low boulder just to the left and slightly uphill of #8. Sit start on the layback flake feature. Ascend on perfect edges. Diminutive, but what it's got is good. FA: David Jefferson, 27 Apr 2020 | V3 | 2m | |||||
2 |
Time Off
Barely worth it. Scramble up the left corner of the boulder, left of 'Broken Plate'. FA: Bruce Taylor | V0 | 2m | |||||
3 |
Hate The Chef
Just worth it. Start just left of the missing plate. FA: Bruce Taylor | V0 | 2m | |||||
4 |
Broken Plate
Start in the centre of where the plate use to be, using the good crimps it left around its perimeter to go up. FA: Bruce Taylor, 2012 | V0- | 2m | |||||
5 |
★ Yakini
Stand start with your right hand on small knob, then and up left to a diagonal ledge. Shares holds with 'Broken Plate'. FA: Bruce Taylor, 2012 | V1 | 3m | |||||
6 |
Broken Start
Similar standing start to Yakini and up to the right and a broken hold. FA: Bruce Taylor, 2012 | V0- | 3m | |||||
7 |
★ Yakini Sit Start
Sit start with LH on undercling/sidepull/crimp on broken hold, RH on crimpy gaston slightly higher. Move up right then bust out left to the knob of the original Yakini standstart, and finish left up this. FA: David Jefferson, 27 Apr 2020 | V4 | 3m | |||||
8 |
★ Alternate yakini sit start
Sit start with right hand gaston on what would be the left for the standard yakini sit. Left hand far left to great square left hand. Up from here. Sit on floor, not on pad for full effect. FA: Jack Mullaly, 29 Jul 2021 | V3 | ||||||
9 |
Through the broken plate (project - open)
Start on angled rail at chest height. Straight up through the mark left by the broken plate. | |||||||
10 |
Left of I'm sinking (project- open)
The topo and description for I'm sinking isn't clear as there are two possible starts by that description. Based on the old topo (taken from far left) we think the right was the original start. Thus we have added this variation. Sit start on pocket/ ledge thing and up right to join I'm sinking. | |||||||
11 |
I'm Sinking
Sit start up to good crimp rail and then good hold to pull up on. FA: Bruce Taylor, 2012 | V1 | 2m | |||||
12 |
★★ This One's Actually Possible, I Promise!
Sit start from similar (or the same?!) position as "I'm Sinking". LH starts on high sidepull, RH lower down on the okay rail. Smear left foot wherever, pull on and smack up to the crimpy lip. Match, traverse a bit right, then mantle with right foot on the juggy lip of "Left Without Dabbing". Given two stars, because it's so much less frustrating (and broadly more achievable) than other sit starts on this boulder. FA: Iain Hunter, 12 Feb 2023 | V2 | 3m | |||||
13 |
Who Gives A Fuck
Stand start on the big obvious flat hold and straight up. Shares some crimps out left with 'I'm Sinking'. FA: Bruce Taylor, 2012 | V0 | 2m | |||||
14 |
Left without dabbing
Start as per rather dabby but after gaining the lip with hands head left and up to to good eye height edge. Mantle this way. FA: Jack Mullaly, 29 Jul 2021 | V2 | ||||||
15 |
Rather dabby
Sit start hands in sharp slopey pockets on second bulge (not the bulge that forms the lip, the one below). Throw to lip and an interesting mantle. Try not to dab on throw. Graded V3 but compared to the grading on one other sit starts on this boulder it might as well be a VB. FA: Jack Mullaly, 29 Jul 2021 | V3 | ||||||
16 |
★★★ Traverse of the Eighth
A beautiful traverse along a varied assortment of slopers and mingin' crimps! Will go at maybe V7+? | 7m |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
V0- | Broken Plate | 2m | |||
Broken Start | 3m | ||||
V0 | Hate The Chef | 2m | |||
Time Off | 2m | ||||
Who Gives A Fuck | 2m | ||||
V1 | I'm Sinking | 2m | |||
★ | Yakini | 3m | |||
V2 | Left without dabbing | ||||
★★ | This One's Actually Possible, I Promise! | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ | Alternate yakini sit start | |||
Rather dabby | |||||
★ | Short Stack | 2m | |||
V4 | ★ | Yakini Sit Start | 3m | ||
? | Left of I'm sinking (project- open) | ||||
Through the broken plate (project - open) | |||||
★★★ | Traverse of the Eighth | 7m |