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Eighth Boulder Guide

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 85
  • Aka: #8

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Bruce Taylor David Jefferson Ryan Sunny

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Eighth Boulder 16 routes in Boulder

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -27.543757, 153.047727

access issues

'Toohey Forest' is owned by the Brisbane City Council. It's an important habitat for 400 plants and animals, and is very popular with walkers, joggers and picnicking families. Therefore the usual rules of taking out your rubbish, keeping noise to a minimum, cleaning any chalk marks and so on are particularly important here if climbing is to remain an acceptable activity in the eyes of the community.

inherited from Toohey Forest
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Short Stack

This problem is located on the low boulder just to the left and slightly uphill of #8. Sit start on the layback flake feature. Ascend on perfect edges. Diminutive, but what it's got is good.

FA: David Jefferson, 27 Apr 2020

V3 Boulder 2m
2 Time Off

Barely worth it. Scramble up the left corner of the boulder, left of 'Broken Plate'.

FA: Bruce Taylor

V0 Boulder 2m
3 Hate The Chef

Just worth it. Start just left of the missing plate.

FA: Bruce Taylor

V0 Boulder 2m
4 Broken Plate

Start in the centre of where the plate use to be, using the good crimps it left around its perimeter to go up.

FA: Bruce Taylor, 2012

V0- Boulder 2m
5 Yakini

Stand start with your right hand on small knob, then and up left to a diagonal ledge. Shares holds with 'Broken Plate'.

FA: Bruce Taylor, 2012

V1 Boulder 3m
6 Broken Start

Similar standing start to Yakini and up to the right and a broken hold.

FA: Bruce Taylor, 2012

V0- Boulder 3m
7 Yakini Sit Start

Sit start with LH on undercling/sidepull/crimp on broken hold, RH on crimpy gaston slightly higher. Move up right then bust out left to the knob of the original Yakini standstart, and finish left up this.

FA: David Jefferson, 27 Apr 2020

V4 Boulder 3m
8 Alternate yakini sit start

Sit start with right hand gaston on what would be the left for the standard yakini sit. Left hand far left to great square left hand. Up from here. Sit on floor, not on pad for full effect.

FA: Jack Mullaly, 29 Jul 2021

V3 Boulder
9 Through the broken plate (project - open)

Start on angled rail at chest height. Straight up through the mark left by the broken plate.

Boulder
10 Left of I'm sinking (project- open)

The topo and description for I'm sinking isn't clear as there are two possible starts by that description. Based on the old topo (taken from far left) we think the right was the original start. Thus we have added this variation. Sit start on pocket/ ledge thing and up right to join I'm sinking.

Boulder
11 I'm Sinking

Sit start up to good crimp rail and then good hold to pull up on.

FA: Bruce Taylor, 2012

V1 Boulder 2m
12 This One's Actually Possible, I Promise!

Sit start from similar (or the same?!) position as "I'm Sinking".

LH starts on high sidepull, RH lower down on the okay rail. Smear left foot wherever, pull on and smack up to the crimpy lip. Match, traverse a bit right, then mantle with right foot on the juggy lip of "Left Without Dabbing".

Given two stars, because it's so much less frustrating (and broadly more achievable) than other sit starts on this boulder.

FA: Iain Hunter, 12 Feb 2023

V2 Boulder 3m
13 Who Gives A Fuck

Stand start on the big obvious flat hold and straight up. Shares some crimps out left with 'I'm Sinking'.

FA: Bruce Taylor, 2012

V0 Boulder 2m
14 Left without dabbing

Start as per rather dabby but after gaining the lip with hands head left and up to to good eye height edge. Mantle this way.

FA: Jack Mullaly, 29 Jul 2021

V2 Boulder
15 Rather dabby

Sit start hands in sharp slopey pockets on second bulge (not the bulge that forms the lip, the one below). Throw to lip and an interesting mantle. Try not to dab on throw. Graded V3 but compared to the grading on one other sit starts on this boulder it might as well be a VB.

FA: Jack Mullaly, 29 Jul 2021

V3 Boulder
16 Traverse of the Eighth

A beautiful traverse along a varied assortment of slopers and mingin' crimps! Will go at maybe V7+?

BoulderProject 7m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
V0- Broken Plate Boulder 2m
Broken Start Boulder 3m
V0 Hate The Chef Boulder 2m
Time Off Boulder 2m
Who Gives A Fuck Boulder 2m
V1 I'm Sinking Boulder 2m
Yakini Boulder 3m
V2 Left without dabbing Boulder
This One's Actually Possible, I Promise! Boulder 3m
V3 Alternate yakini sit start Boulder
Rather dabby Boulder
Short Stack Boulder 2m
V4 Yakini Sit Start Boulder 3m
? Left of I'm sinking (project- open) Boulder
Through the broken plate (project - open) Boulder
Traverse of the Eighth BoulderProject 7m
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