Routes in Redcliffs

First obvious crack problem

A one move wonder, but what a move! Hard, technical face with big hueco immediately to the right of Grunt

Layback up the curved flake to ledge and small overhang. Continue easily to the top

A hard but contrived arête which uses only the most difficult moves

Face climb just right of arête

Face and thin crack climb up the easiest line on the face

Up thin crimpers and side pulls to smears avoiding the easier crackline of Other Won.

Chimney at end of face

Up smooth wall (SLCD’s) passing ledge (#4 SLCD) to top section with RB. Tricky mantle finish. Tree belay.

Bouldery bright orange start past low RB, then trend easily R (small SLCD) into corner. Up this (RB) to sit down on ledge. Lean across L under roof (gear), then blast through, and up the nice crackline to ledge. Walk off L, or climb the line behind (the “Lessee” Finish) to top of flat platform.

Nice sport climb up some awesome overlaps.

Start: 3m right of 'Superman' and Cereal

Starts about 1.5 metres to right of We're here to put the fun back into fundamentalism. Follow bolts up on the arete in the centre of the gnarly looking juggy holds and seeming blank slabs to the obvious dogs head that looks like Falcor from the Never Ending Story. Exit left to platform. Two widely spaced ring bolts for anchor to either rap to ground, bring a second up or walk off to left.

Good moves on pretty nice rock. The FA was done during a thunderstorm. Follow the crack system up to the big roof, to break through the weakness on the left and finish up the final short wall to the top. Don't fall off the crux on second.

As for the original to the overhang, then easily up the face left to the flat platform

A tribute to hard grit. See topo 2. Use two ropes. Start up Orange Overhang, then head R up the rippled slab to sitdown rest beneath the overhang. Plug in lots of gear and clip on second rope, dropping first rope. Climb through overhang and up sustained overhung line to top.

Clip the bolts and up and away like a monkey who likes a little moss and technical fun.

Start: get up to the break, place a cam if you think it needs it

The overhung hand crack just L of the L corner at the top of the gully. Appearances can be deceiving on this one. Easy climbing down low and slab climbing up high for the top out.

6m R of LO in the R corner of the gully. Good jamming up a good crackline on good rock. Just plain good. Continue up past the mantle and loose corner system to finish.

Further around R. The indistinct chossy arête

This route starts at ground level.

1. 56m. Ten metres up you’ll know you’re on route if you s handful of the finest talcum powder. Run up through the mank with a bit of wandery route-finding to beautiful belay ledge and medium size tree to belay from.

2. 30m. Keep heading up to finish beside a tree and dodgy looking.

Start up the very deep chimney at head height around 20 L of Nicarete. The chimney moves are surprisingly good in spite of the white chalk dust encountered up the gulley. Busting out of the chimney head R across platform to orange chimney with bomber hard rock and wicked moves, exit chimney to be confronted with what can only be described as rubble held together with solid dirt. Ensure that no one is below whilst on this section, inspiring isn't it? Avoid the looseness by a couple of chimney moves aiming for a very large tree belay. Abseil to ground to avoid the rubble strewn exit gully. Good gear for most of the way. Not recommended for trad bumblies.

There is now a line of bolts 4 m left of Nicarete which is probably this climb. About 8 ring bolts, also need a few pieces of gear unless you are very brave.

Up from tree to the big orange corner, up to the right and on to the sharp arete, up to top out. 'Awesome arete' in middle of climb, definitely worth doing. One of the classics of the cliff.

Start: At big tree in middle of start ledge

Trad route that is a reasonably sane outing up some nice sandstone.

Start: Start about 4 or 5 metres left of 'Nicabate'

Up corners following RBs and into cracked corner system on gear and onto cracked face, up the face/finger crack to a cruel and unusual exit into a smooth groove, could be a little sandy here depending on traffic. From there up any line to the top.

Start: Just before the white vertical beach look for the first ring at head height.

Climb Nicabate on RBs and SLCDs to the curly tree. Stretch out R to clip RB on face. Traverse 4 m directly R under the bolt (kneebars!) until you reach the holds that are good enough to pull the lip on. Pull the lip, then up the gully past the broken stump. Traverse R onto Trireme’s exposed arete and climb this (runout) to tree belay. Lots of long quickdraws prevent rope drag. The seconder must carry prussiks!

Start on vertical white beach between Nicabate and Via Ferupper.

1. Work out the boulder throw, once established on the beach wall, progress up through first overhang on what can only be loosely described as rock to gain double RB belay under second overhang.

2. Up and R from belay using plenty of SLCDs to protect from a ledge fall. Clip RB over lip and proceed to pull the lip on jugs, up to third roof. Belay from here or just continue on.

3. Check out the giant nostril under the nose, very cool geological feature. Be a hero and climb over the very tip of the nose, mere mortal may divert to the right to gain the upper arete which has stunning climbing on a leaning arete. This is an adventure in steep thuggee climbing but is spoilt somewhat by the sandy nature of the rock on the first pitch.

Not a bad easier route. Up the white wall passing four RBs to big ledge (with double bolt belay).

Extend the belay down to th lip the RB r S e lower ledge. Climb L. C in the horizontal roof, and then go fo it. Out L, cranking through the lip. Climb corner above (two RB’s).

The second corner L from the ledge. Extend the belay down to the lower ledge. Crank through the roofy section (SLCD's) into the corner. Thankfully clip a RB on L, then good moves to top out on easy ground, then 10m of easy climbing to the top.

Start just to the left of Shark’s Fin arete. Make your way up the initial ramp and then head out on the L wall under the roof, spectacular moves are encountered to bust through the roof. One small loose biscuit about a foot below the roof should be avoided but apart from that the rock appears to be very sound. Plenty of great trad placement present themselves to protect this awesome outing. Finish as for Neptune’s Treasure Chest.

From the ledge, crank up the RHS of the orange, overhanging ‘shark’s fin’ past four RB’s. Crank through the roof, and continue up the headwall (RB’s and gear – green alien and #3.5 SLCD).

Starts at corner/weakness 4m R of VF. Up, then mantle awkward sloper ledge, moving up through the overhanging block system (mind the tongue orchid). Finish up the crack just to the left of the obvious corner topping out to the L of the dead tree. The top half is reputed to be very good.

Not good fun. Start at roof-capped gully. Climb up gully to roof and jam out L side (ouch!) onto face, up and R of bush to RB, then up R to crack to top.

Start from the belay tree on PTP ledge, which is 4m R of the start of G. Move 1m to the L and up through the obvious chimney

Only fun if you enjoy cranking off tiny holds. Rap to big tree on ledge and pre clip first RB! From tree (and not using it!) up with extremely thin, long moves past RB, some gear to second RB. Climb straight up R side of second RB, gear to top.

Avoids the hard start. Starts 2m right of SC. Rap to big tree on ledge and pre clip first RB. Up to RB, climb up and L (some gear) to RB on SC. Finish as for SC.

Belay off your abseil line. Start 2m R of pillar on L side of ledge. Mantle small ledge and place gear in horizontal crack on L. Proceed up the slight-rightwards shallow crack (small cams) to the next horizontal break and awesome pockets. Finish up the twin cracks to ledge, and top.

Belay off your abseil line. Starts 3m L of corner at right end of ledge, below big orange hand-hold. Start up wall to good ledge (medium SLCD). Straight up (small SLCD) and then towards horizontal break (medium SLCD). Veer L to layback crack and then up to L side of tree. Up ramp to top.

Rap down onto big stance in corner. Natural belay. Bridge up short, steep corner to easy ground, before traversing R (easy but exposed) with pretty average protection in pockets to man-sized hueco on arête (good gear). Up arête to roof (RB). Kneebar to reach high up L on headwall. Up arête to tree belay.

Climbs the biggest section of roof. Access similar to TSAOT - rap down the R arête of the roof (facing out) to ledge, then walk 2m under the roof to RB belay station down low. Up start wall past three RB’s to roof. Reachy clip to RB in roof, then power to lip. Two RB’s on headwall then a loose finish. Tree belay.

Start at Pendulus belay, clip first ring on P and then up corner to roof. Scrunch up into the foetal position as you make your way out to the rocker blocker, try not to pull the block off into your lap whilst you pull the lip, blast up shallow chimney to top. Use extra long draws to avoid rope drag. All bolts.

Starting about 10m L of Mythologica at the big orange corner below the big roof (Pendulus). Climbs up the corner and face on good rock with just enough protection (some tricky slinging) to the ledge. Pendulus’ RB station 4m L on ledge.

Starts just right of IRGC, on the goats track underneath the large roof. Diagonally right over two carrots then back left and up over three ring bolts to chains.

Full value! See topo 4. Climb the original past the bulge. Instead of going up the crackline, move up L to a RB on the arête. Up the airy arête, then climb the wall just R of rubbishy gully.

See topo 4. Start just R of the big orange corner of IRGC. Stickclip RB, then boulder out over the void (crux). Easily up arête to ledge with daunting bulge above. Carefully crank up to clip high RB, then power through on good holds. Follow the crackline from here to the top.

A fine face climb up a sustained slab. Start on the sloping terrace beneath the slab. Crank onto the face passing a FH and gear. Up black rock on good edges passing second FH and gear to a rest. Directly up to the third FH, then great face moves on solid stone to the last FH. Think your way through the thin, technical crux tending R and up to thankfully plug gear in the breaks. Traverse R into the crackline, and follow this to the top (tree). Take a full rack including many small SLCD’s and wires. Solid for the grade.

Lovely climbing. See topo 4. Start at short corner a couple of metres R of M.

Start up a line and keep just to the L of B.A.S (i.e. to the right of LFM)

This one starts from way down on the ground. See topo 4. Just guess the acronym! The big corner/gully system. Good pro all the way, but dangerously loose blocks in the middle of the second pitch.

About 10m or so L of Cerberus. Out to the R, then up the cracked and balancy rock gully chute. Note the dangerous hanging rocks - exercise great caution here.

When looking out from the top of the Mythologica Wall it’s hard to miss the impressive looking prow out L, which is split by a ledge in the middle. Cerberus climbs the lower bit, Tartarus the upper. Starts 5m L of SID. Pull up into cave and shuffle along to the end. Sit down, feet low, lean out and clip RB (if you’re scared - temp #1 SLCD in the cave roof). Crank past the RB in an airy position to break (gear). Up crack (wire) to ledge. Belay off #2 SLCD and RB

Very good rock and enjoyable jamming. Access as per Tartarus. Climb the crackline 3m L of Tartarus to tree. Optional DF straight up face.

The part of Hell reserved for the punishment of the wicked. To access, climb Cerberus, or rap in. Belay off RB and #2 SLCD. From the ledge, blast up the wall in a spectacular position past three RB’s to tree belay. Scramble R to top.

5m R of Cerberus is a big overhang with one RB wayyy up. Monstrous stickclip, or rap in and preplace. Powerful, bouldery climbing. Once on ledge, climb wall (easy, no pro) to base of Tartarus. Belay from RB and #2 SLCD.

The route starts just L of the second RB on the fixed rope traverse. Crank up into cave. Lean out and clip RB on lip. Monkey up into easy ground. Run up corner past tree and get situated under roof, clipping RB on bulge. A gut-busting boulder problem into the corner (#2 SLCD) and up carefully to tree belay.

A very nice cruisy route taking in some lovely scenery. Unfortunately it has a dyno start which may be tricky for some. Starts at the L-end of the rope traverse. Lean out to clip RB, then dyno up and hand traverse R to pull onto easy ground (#1 SLCD). Up the slick slab (RB and big wire) to ledge (RB). Mantle, then an interesting step over the void gives a break (big SLCD) and then much easier climbing to the top.

A thrilling lip-traverse variant on Elysium. Climb Elysium until your hands are on the ledge; level with the huge roof. Clip the RB, then power directly out the lip via what for most will be a huge dyno to a jug, then mantle out the prow. Finish easily as per the original.

Starts at 'ground level' in the alcove directly below the fixed rope traverse. Stick clip, up corner and onto face. Past another bolt and up to rap station.

Starts at 'ground level' in the alcove directly below the fixed rope traverse Two bolts to rap station.

Starts at 'ground level' in the alcove directly below the fixed rope traverse Up face passing four bolts. Traverse to weakness in roof and FH. Over roof past another bolt and onto rap station.

Starts at 'ground level' in the alcove directly below the fixed rope traverse Up face a little to the left of 'Wax On Wax Off'. Clip a carrot in the small hollow then finish up 'Wax On Wax Off'. Pretty contrived, but fun.

Starts at 'ground level' in the alcove directly below the fixed rope traverse Quite nice for the grade. Up the arete past two carrots and onto slab. Clip another carrot before stepping onto the face to the right and up past another 3 carrots.

Start at DBB on the third height traverse near Send In The Clowns. Start is a little hinky and you need to head R from the belay before committing to the arête, the rock is better around the corner. Straight up the arête on easy ground to lip of roof, traverse left under the roof to double ringbolt belay.

This is a nice variant start to Send In The Clowns. Start as for the original in the niche but don’t go up the main crackline. Instead, climb out L onto the arête, climbing this to the rooflet, and then up the juggy orange face as per the original, or finish up Big Top for the best exposure!

A novelty finish for Send In The Clowns which makes the route even more exciting. Instead of going up the juggy headwall, traverse L around the arête and keep traversing past an exposed step-across. Finish easily up minding rope drag.

Most popular route at the cliff. Awesome positions, exposure and gear - a must-do! Starts 4m L of the double RB belay in a niche. Climb easily until the wide section narrows to a superb off-finger crack up the green slab. Climb this using the one great hand jam to ledge. Traverse L out onto the beautifully exposed orange prow posing for photos, then monkey up the buckets to the big tree on the ledge.

A bold DF to Send In The Clowns. Climb the start of SITC to the stance below orange arête. Use a stick to place a thread with a long sling. Straight up the committing arête past a blue alien placement on the L. From the ledge, go straight up.

Yet another finish for SITC. Climb the start of SITC to big ledge at the base of the orange liftshaft. Strenuously bridge up the shaft to rest beneath the roof. Swing R and climb the hand crack to the top.

An outrageous and deceptive foray across Redcliff's finest orange rock. See topo 5. Climb the start of Send In The Clowns to big ledge at the base of the orange lift-shaft. Step R into the leaning flake-corner. Up this (hard) to some good holds. Traverse R along break, then straight up.

Just L of Desperation Prow 's ringbolted arête is a very chalked up corner. Okay, so it’s not chalk. Still, it’s a great line. The start is bouldery on thin, techy wire placements leading into the stained corner with good gear. The top section offers overhanging fingerlocks. Finish by climbing good holds on either side of the offwidth.

One of the best routes on the cliff offering superb climbing on excellent rock. Start at double RB belay. Climbs up left side of arête passing four RB’s before switching to the right side of the arête passing another four RB’s to top.

Stickclip high RB and power up overhung bowl. Up arête past second RB to ledge. Finish up No Idea's DF on the arête. See topo 5.

Excellent, and definitely the way to climb it. From ledge on original run it out up the arête on L to horizontal (thank-god gear) and up arête to top.

Stickclip first RB, then climb up R of it (hard) to ledge. Black slab (two RB’s) to ledge, then up corner on gear (sling for chockstone). A #5 SLCD would help for the top section.

Up the big corner.

Up the cracked arete 1 m right of Cracked Glass, veering right under the roof. Belay from DBB or continue to the top

The overhung arête 3m R. Reachy start (RB) past loose sandy stuff gives a RB and a crank to a ledge (sling). RB on L and easily to top. Belay and rap from RB station.

Start at the double RB station atop Sweet Slam (short rap in). Traverse L off the ledge under the roof, and follow the obvious half-height break all the way along the cliff to finish up Big Top. Has its moments, and could be a real challenge for those who are very short.

3m R. Short face climbing up a cracked and pocketed wall on natural gear that can be a bit fiddly to place. Tricky start to first horizontal break. Place #1 SLCD and power through on crimps and small edges to good pockets and a small wire. Now it's easy face climbing on SLCD’s and small wires to the top. Double RB station.

3m R at the short overhung wall. Hueco to break. Clip RB, then crimp up to pocket and ledge (place #1.5 SLCD in pocket after latching the ledge). Mantle, then easy corner on gear. You’re not doing it properly if you use the blocky footholds on the L down low.

5m R at the orange, blocky corner. Heinous hand/fist crack start (tape!) to beneath roof. Swing L through roof step L and climb the arête past a RB to a runout finish (don’t fall!).

Unfortunately, start as for TGDRA. Once above roof, continue directly up corner. Phil’s finest route-naming effort!

Over the bottomless start. Step L to arête (gear) then up to first RB, then lovely climbing past the final two RB’s to the top.

15m L of the start of the crag. L-facing corner with bottomless start (very hard for some) above the beach. All natural gear, except for a shared final RB.

Short clean arete about 4m right of Kaleidoscope. Don't fall off...

Up to bulge/nose feature, around left, then up the short finger crack.

Start: Obvious nose/bulge feature in the corner.

The next corner along.

Up the mank while picking the ferns out of your beard.

First crack left of the walk down.

Quite fun. Up on pockets past a bolt to the horizontal break and another carrot. Climb the arete past another bolt to a double carrot belay on top of the boulder.