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Angry Ant Area

10

Seasonality

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Description

The easiest sector at the crag with a few harder ones on the left. Climbs listed in right to left order facing the rock. In summer a VERY nasty ants nest is active below the first few routes. Belay on the small ledge or get eaten alive. The Ants seem to be gone these days but keep an eye out.

Access issues inherited from GFC

The locals above the cliff seem friendly, but keep a low profile and don't park across the gate. Don't leave anything valuable in the car. The area is a lot more affluent than The Junkyard and the cliff itself was free of graffiti and bongs when first discovered.

Approach

Walk 50m left of Tiger Wall to the first route.

Descent notes

All routes have lower-offs.

Ethic inherited from GFC

Another Sydney ethics free crag. It's sport climbing on ringbolts.

Routes

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Grade Route

Grade 16 for most of the climb and a 20 on the last move equals a grade 18. Make sure your belayer stands to the right of the ant's nest...

Set: Viona Young & Wade Stewart, 23 Jan 2015

Big move at the 2nd bolt then easy to the top. Finishes up the orange goodness of ‘OO’

FA: Jason Lammers, 1 Jul 2023

Lots of fun, Nothing too hard. Just make sure your belayer doesn't stand in the ants nest. 2m right of Bolt It And They Will Come.

FA: Viona Young, Wade Stewart & Jason Lammers, 14 Dec 2014

3m right of Harem. Climb upwards and right until you get near the bright yellow streak on ledge. Then climb left side of this up and left to lower offs. Fun warm up.

FA: Wade Stewart, Viona Young & Jason Lammers, 14 Dec 2014

Links the best part of all the warm ups. Makes the longest route on the wall. Start up 'Bolt It And They Will Come' for a few bolts, cross thru the nice orange bit on 'Overly Optimistic' and then a high traverse to link into the final tricky move on 'Disarray'

FA: The Bangor Chimp

A fun climb straight up through the arête and scoops to the upper right lower offs. Beautiful yellow sandstone features

FA: Wade Stewart, Viona Young & Jason Lammers, 14 Dec 2014

Variant finish to Harem. Climb Harem to 3rd bolt then swing to the left side of the cave (clip bolt). Then back right to anchor. Probably better to link into 'Fix this Mikl' instead of the Harem anchor.

FA: Jason Lammers, 19 Jul 2015

Between Harem and FOMO. One grovelly move about half way up. The fix it up bit was on FOMO

FA: Jason Lammers, 26 Jul 2015

A bit of Nowra in downtown Minto. Good and varied, sandy start. The "fix it" bit included: adding a bolt to the crux, knocking off the surfboard you could rest on but then hit if you fell off the crux, adding another few moves of climbing to the top.

Aleksandra Balyanova

Set: Michael Law

FA: Jason Lammers, 24 Jan 2015

Left of FOMO. Punchy start, techy finish. Save some gas and skip the last bolt.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Mike Forward and Peter Balint

Date: 2023

With 2065 bouldering problems ranging from V0-V15 across 57 areas nestled around Sydney, the all new Sydney Bouldering Guide will keep you occupied for years to come. Just because we live in Sydney we'll try not to be biased but honestly this city has some amazing bouldering and usually not more than a few minutes off the road or some even near parks and train stations. There's no need to camp out and trek for hours to get to world class problems, they're right on your door step.

Authors Mike Forward and Peter Balint spent over 7 years putting this guide together and is the first new bouldering guide for Sydney in over 20 years. It's over 350 colour pages including 600+ colour photo tops, crag tops, amazing images and more.

Author(s): Neil Monteith & Simon Carter

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9780645299908

Featuring 1142 climbing routes located at 24 of the best crags in the Sydney area, this A5 size guide book is super user friendly with easy to use colour cliff topos and access maps. Covers sport and trad climbing at a variety of grades, something for everyone.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Tue 13 Jun
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