Routes in Smiling Rock

Start about 50 metres to the right of Skyrider on the southern bluffs. Pleasant laybacking and hand jamming up the wandering crack which initially slants to the left and then goes straight up.

Definitely not recommended. Start 10 metres right of the fireplace. Hard moves to start up the very thin flake, slap left, then walk up the mossy slab above.

Start on the higher part of the ledge about three metres to the right of Burning Yams below an incipient crack. Climb the crack (protection is desperate to place).

One of a kind. Awkward climbing in a superb position. Start three metres to the left of an obvious quartz dyke, below the right hand end of the roof which cuts the main wall. Take heaps of large camming devices or else!

1. 30 metres (15) Climb the dark slab to the right of the moss, step left across the moss to the obvious crack. Climb this to a hanging belay in the corner of the roof next to large guano.

2. 10 metres (20) Traverse left to hanging belay just to left of massive guano.

3. 35 metres (20) Continue to ledge on top of block to belay. Scramble down block for five metres to track.

Follows a line up the middle of blocks on the front buttress, about 15 metres right of the fireplace. Balance traverse right then easily up onto block. Step right and hardish moves up crack followed by easy laybacking and final traverse right under roof to belay.

Start three metres right and up from The Wanderer on a large ledge. Layback up flake (unprotected) then easily up crack stepping right under roof to belay.

The classic of the cliff. Start six metres to the left of the fireplace. Sustained climbing up the fingertip crack which splits the otherwise featureless wall at the left-hand end of the outcrop.

Start four metres to the right of the fireplace. Up the poorly brushed slab to the right of the arete to the horizontal crack. Continue upwards as for pitch two of Desperate Measures.

Definitely not worth the effort to find. Start 20 metres above the pine tree 30 metres left of the top of People With Chairs Up Their Noses. Climb the middle of the white slab.

A direct start to Pushing the Envelope; start at the fireplace five metres right of Desperate measures. Unpleasantly thin climbing up the friable slab past two bolts to join Desperate Measures.

The only climb to date at Turret Rocks. The easy fist crack and groove on the southern side of the boulder.

Another worthless crack right of Dirt Roller.

Yet another worthless crack, on the second tier of the southern bluffs.

Part of 'Hospital Crag' to the south of Smiling Rock. Start at the northedn end of Hospital Crag, below a large ledge with a tree.

1. 5 metres (10) Climb the short off-width to the tree.

2. 25 metres (20) Layback and bridge up the thin leftwards leaning flake. Follow the weakness to the right and then finish up Ward 3B.

Part of 'Hospital Crag' to the south of Smiling Rock. From the belay on Scaffold Injuries, layback the corner crack on the right, then follow the crack system to the top, squeezing under a tree branch.

A better first pitch to Skyrider. The wide crack to the right of the original.