Routes as trad in East

An incredible and inspiring diagonal line that packs a punch. Sustained jamming and laybacks all the way. Micro cams, finger sized cams and small to medium wires. Take a #4 and #5 BD cam for the belay plus a few cordelettes to extend the anchor if you want to top rope it.

Pitch 1, 23 Steep corner crack with big roof at half height, then splitter finish to ledge. Pitch 2, 23 Cliff splitting offwidth/squeeze chimney! Gear larger than a camalot 6 is essential for this pitch, and a long shirt!

Flared cracks and layaways on both faces. Absolutely no gear.

Up shallow corner to undercling spike. Follow tricky cracks above.

Start: Left of two corners on the face.

A tricky finger start to the small ledge. Up the crack system above.

Start: The larger of the two corners on the face (the one on the right).

Take the easiest line of jugs up the wall. Poor pro.

Corner on extreme left of Black face. Bridge up blind corner to ledge.

Up easy handcrack above if you want. Bad protection down low.

This stinky corner is home to lots of live bugs, dead bugs. dead seagulls, live grandma's handbags, dead grandma's handbags and God knows what else. Climb it if you feel like punishing yourself.

Start: The obvious corner where the Red Face meets the overhanging Blue Face.

Straight up the steep cracks, to more a more relaxed angle face with jugs and jams.

Start: At the base of the twin cracks around the corner to the right from a + b.

Follow the the cracks and flake to the half-way ledge of Tetragrammaton.

Start: At the far right end of the ledge system at the base.

P1. (18) Up NMMNG but continue up and right instead or traversing right. Belay at a comfortable slopy stance. P2. (26) Thin crack on steep arete. Traverse right at roof past a bolt to DBB. P3. (17+) Given 17, sandbagged. Up steep fist cracks top

Continue up the steep arête of Exocet until it reaches the roof. Instead of traversing right, place some bomber gear and blast straight up just right of the arête. After some tricky moves, the difficulty eases and is protected by good RPs and wires. Move left and up the arête.

An amazing pitch of climbing. Single bolt hanging belay just above the water. A tricky steep crack leads to some easy climbing and an exposed and exciting traverse left around the arete and up to the belay for P2 of Exocet. Finish either by climbing Exocet or NMMNG.

Climbs left arete of Alchemy Wall via some bolts and wires. Moves right at second bolt above rooflet and back towards the arete for gear and more holds. Gear anchor set a long way back from the top

Mixed bolts and gear.

Pure slab in the middle of Alchemy Wall. 6 U-bolts + 1 or 2 small cams climb to first bolt. Crux begins at fourth bolt with flake. Thin moves up to flaring crack (can use wires to protect) and straight up to ledge. Place #3 Camelot in break, climb the final bulge to the top. Needs grade confirmation.

Climb Walking the Plank but don't step right. Instead step left past a bolt and finish up wide crack (#4)

Traverse left under-clinging flakes then up slab

The leftmost crack on the main wall. Takes fingers well, to a slabby top out.

The corner and crack system in the middle of the short steep wall.

The thin line on the steep face, before the angle of the wall changes.

1.5 metres R of Curious Fanatic. Boulder up layaways to jug at 4/5 metres. Up easy slab/crack.

The alluring off-width.

Climb the offwidth and laser-cut crack above.

Start: To the right of the all the bolted routes is another offwidth.

Wide but straightforward offwidth a few meters right of Windjammer. 2x 6 cams helpful.

The crack with the bushes at the base. Up this offwidth (crux) to the ledge, continue up the chimney which has two corner cracks in the back. Layback, good gear, nice moves, easy to throw a top rope over for teaching crack moves.

Climb the block to gain the base of a rightward slanting crack, which starts on the right side of the ledge in Chill Your Beans. Possible to stay in the crack or hug the flake. Large cams helpful.

Left trending diagonal crack. Gets wide about half way up.

You carried the big gear this far - may as well? The right trending fist crack faced before starting the scramble to White Stack Upper. Actually the same crack as Tashtego, but on the far side of the rock. When you reach the top of the wide fist crack, head left and up past the bush to top out. Climbs better then it looks, 2x 4s or 5s recommended, grade may vary depending on the size of your mitts.

up the wall just left of the offwidth of ISAICGO. Follow the twin cracks past the X (crux) to gain the ledge. Follow the groove on the left to gain the top of the cliff

offwidth

Up crack until you can step onto the slab and climb this with the help of the arete past 4 bolt.s