Help

Gates of Mordor

  • Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 2
  • Ascents: 3
2
AU

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Summary

Seen clearly from Mount Doris, the Gates are an imposing feature guarding the approach to the summit of Ossa.

Access issues inherited from Mount Ossa

With on going COVID restrictions, bookings to walk the arm river track must be made in advance.

Approach

Crag can be accessed from the main walking track, the highest quality rock is on the southern wall of the gates.

Ethic

Traditional adventure climbing.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

The well protected central crack line with varied classy climbing, the route leads up and behind the imposing pillar. climb the crack direct through a corner into a slightly overhanging crack, layback to ledge without escaping right or left. Climb up chimney with small protection to the top of the pillar, jump or bridge the gap across incut ledge to topout and belay.

FA: Paul Mackrell & Michael Lehmann, 24 Jan 2021

A serious climb up the exposed face of the main pillar. Climb the crack system of FOTR to the ledge. An 8mm chord wrap was placed around the pillar for the first ascent to protect the delicate traverse onto the face. From the ledge traverse to an insecure shallow corner on the arete, climb delicately to a mantle on slopey ledge. A horn can be slung on the right side of the pillar to protect the top. Follow a strenuous sequence(Crux) to the top of the pillar. Jump from pillar to ledge scramble to topout/belay.

FA: Michael Lehmann, 25 Jan 2021

Information needed

This crag does not have a description. Can you share a summary introduction to this crag?

If you can help provide a better quality resource for the climbing community then please click 'edit this crag' button near the top of the page.

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Gerry Narkowicz

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9780646841946

Cracks, sea stacks, big walls, remote exotic locations, volcanic columns, no crowds and your choice of the predominant dolerite, some quartzite and a little sandstone to remind you of the mainland. Many a wilderness climbing experience can be had within a 2hr car trip from the main centers. By Gerry Narkowicz. This guide features 1280 routes.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

Share this

Sat 13 May
Check out what is happening in Gates of Mordor.

Get a detailed insight with a timeline showing

  • Ticks by climbers like you
  • Discussions of the community
  • Updates to the index by our users
  • and many more things.

Login to see the timeline!

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文