A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Matt Brooks Richard Curtis Rod Young Philip Armstrong Josh Simpson Alister Robertson gavin reynolds Steve Bell
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Bisset's Pinnacles
33 in Area
- 1.1. Appastic Buttress - Main Cliff 21 in Sector
- 1.2. Main Pinnacle 6 in Area
- 1.3. Topmost Pinnacle 6 in Area
- 2. Index by grade
1. Bisset's Pinnacles 33 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -37.385254, 145.786032
For those with a 4WD the Alternative is to bash in from Tweed Spur Track.
It is also possible to to rock hop up and down the river from Cooks Mill in the drier months.
summary
Great technical climbing on Rhyolite high on the Blue range in a semi Alpine setting
description
The legendary crag of the Eastern district. Bissets is a bit disjointed and broken up with access from climb to climb being somewhat frustrating. The cliff is situated on the side of a very steep hillside high in the Blue range protected by Prickly Acacia and other skin and soul destroting native plants. The rock however is exceptionally hard, smooth, good quality, and the climbs good quality also. Due to the rock type the are lends its elf to the harder more technical climbs that the nearby sandstone. Protection in the cracks is generally excellent with nuts, cams and the occasional bolt or peg.
access issues
High on a steep hill protected by prickly shit.
approach
On the eastern side of Cooks Mill bridge is atrack (Little River Fire Track) heading east. The way is barred by a gate and signposted 'walkers only. Take this track, taking the left option a little way along. Foolw this till it makes a sharp L turn near the top of the ridge. . At this point Lowerson Walking track leads off right. This old logging track follows the contour and then turns abruptly downhill to the river. Find a suitable log to cross and make your way up stream until an opoening by some rock pools and slabs in the river. Double back about 30m to the rock fall on the steep uphill slope. Walk up the rock fall and soon a path should be found (starting near a large white tree) The way is steep but eventually the crag should be seen up on the L. The main pinnacle is easy to spot and makes a good place to drop gear. A fixed no smoking sign did mark the start of the track to get back down to the river.
where to stay
Camp at Cooks Mill or Neds Gully, one of the local caravan parks or hotels in Alexandria, Buxton, marysville or Narbethong
ethic
Mixed and trads routes are presented.
1.1. Appastic Buttress - Main Cliff 21 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -37.385196, 145.786790
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Scene Of The Crime
'Stolen' Weel worth the effort. Starts at the Centre of Appastic Buttress. Follow the line L of Appatistic Crack. Delicate at first to clip the bolt (not really good) then follow the line to the top. FA: Glenn Tempest & Richard Smith, 1982 | 21 | 25m, 1 | |||
2 |
★ Scene Of The Crime Variant
Climb Appastic Crack until its possible to step L into a SOTC. FA: Glenn Tempest & Richard Smith, 1982 | 17 | 25m | |||
3 |
Appatisic Crack
The obvious curving crack on the R side of the Appastic Buttress. FA: Phillip Armstrong & Rick OÇoin, 1976 | 11 | 20m | |||
4 |
Young Flesh
U R of Appastic Buttress and just before the gully are a couple of obvious cracks. Jam the steep L hand crack, then take the easy corner. FA: Glenn Tempest & Jerry Maddox, 1978 | 19 | 10m | |||
5 |
Thermography
Half way up the L wall of the descent gully behind the main face there is square cut crack line. Traverse across the slab to the crack and up it. FA: Phillip Armstrong & Dave McLean, 1977 | 10 | 20m | |||
6 |
Surface Composition
On a small buttress up the R of Thermography are two parralell cracks. Bridge to start and take the R hand crack. FA: Phillip Armstrong & Dave McLean, 1977 | 14 | 20m | |||
7 |
Alias Smith And Jones
The thin and tenuous crack on the back wall at the rear of the finish to Erbiverous Delving. Up the crack and L onto the arete. FA: Eric jones & Richard Smith, 1983 | 20 | 30m | |||
8 |
★ Wuthering Heights
One of the best. Start as for Calabrian. Hand traverse L across the L leading horizontal crack to the centre of the wall. Follow the thin crack all the way to the top. FA: Glenn Tempest & Jerry Maddox | 19 | 25m | |||
9 |
Calaban
A worthwhile jamming problem. Tape up. At the L hand end of the main face are two distinct cracks. Climb the L hand crack up to the overhang, step out and continue up the crack to the top. FA: Rod Young, 1976 | 17 | 27m | |||
10 |
★ Gates OF Delirium
Superb, but how thin are your fingers. Starts as for Calaban, but moves diagonally R to a horizontal break, then up the finger crack to exit L of the top block. FA: Glenn Tempest & Rod Young, 1975 FFA: Glenn Tempest & Keith Egerton, 1977 | 21 | 22m | |||
11 |
Erbiverous Delving
Take a trowel?
FA: Phillip Armstrong & Jerry Maddox, 1975 | 14 | 36m, 2 | |||
12 |
Erbiverous Delving Direct Start
Yuck. Starts 4m R of the original start, directly below the 2nd pitch. 1a Climb the wide crack to the overhang. FA: Rod Young, 1976 | 14 | 5m | |||
13 |
Abseil Flake Crack
Too short, but nice. Climb the flake crack to the bollard. There is a fixed pin here to rappel off in conjunction with the bollard. FA: Eric Jones solo | 15 | 10m | |||
14 |
Guinevere
INteresting and varied. Towards the L end of the main face, there is an obvious groove crack which curves to the top. Start below the bush. Move up to traverse right wards to the line. Follow the larger crack to the top. FA: Glenn Tempest & Phillip Armstrong, 1975 | 14 | 27m | |||
15 |
Rough Cut
Exasperating. Starts as for G. Up the line then take the thin crack up the face. A mad dash L along the incipient edge leads onto the arete. Climb up the slab taking care bot to fall off (no runners). FA: Glenn Tempest & Eric Jones, 1983 | 21 | 30m | |||
16 |
★★ Spiral Architect
The classic of the crag and under 20. The thin cae crack in the centre of the wall. Climb the short hard wall to start, past a pin (use it if you have to) to gain the starting ledge. MOve L along the ledge until under the rather obvious crack. Follow the crack as it get thinner all the way. Back up the Bolt Belay witha nut which should be there. Do not abseil off the bolt. FA: Glenn Tempest, Phillip Armstrong & Rod Young, 1976 | 18 | 30m | |||
17 |
Come Up And Winch Me Sometime
Mundane. Starts at the top of Spiral Architect. Clip the Bolt, mantle, then L up the line, go L to the bush. Up the crack. FA: Glenn Tempest, Austin Leggler (US) & Mary Fowler (US), 1984 | 18 | 20m, 1 | |||
18 |
Deep Space
The second pitch is nice, the first a disaster. On the main face there is an obvious offwidth which continues as a thin crack. To start, get to the ledge as for Spiral Architect.
FA: Glenn Tempest, Jeremy Maddox & Rod Young, 1978 | 20 | 40m, 2 | |||
19 |
★ Cutting It Fine
Some very hard moves. Takes the obvious curving crack at the L side of the black wall. The start is laybacked into the thin section. Up this (crux), then continue jamming to the flake. Follow this to belay under the roof. FA: Glenn Tempest & Richard Smith, 1982 | 23 | 30m | |||
20 |
★★ Pacemaker
Steep and fingery and a wee bit bold. May need a clean after winter. The impossible looking seam in the centre of the black wall. Past 3 pins to the top. The first pin is miles off the ground. FA: Glenn Tempest & Richard Smith, 1982 | 23 | 25m | |||
21 |
★ Rock Zealot
Great Climbing i an exposed position. Starting on a ledge at the top of Cutting It Fine. Up to reach the flat top, then jam up the crack. FA: Glenn Tempest & Jerry Maddox, 1978 | 21 | 20m |
1.2. Main Pinnacle 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -37.385573, 145.786207
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Haemorrhoid
It will give you just that lol. Start on the back of the main pinnacle opposite Pacemaker. Jam the crack to the top. FA: Rod Young, 1976 | 17 | 30m | |||
2 |
Thrills And Spills
Steep and technical. Will go free at some point. Starts at the wall down and L of Smiler. Boulder the wall with no pro to a pea-pod and a fixed pin (about Gr 19). Hard moves up and onto the ramp and follow this to the black wall. One or two aids brings the diagonal to hand. Swing R and up this to the top. FA: Glenn Tempest, 1985 | 26 M1 | 25m | |||
3 |
Smiler
Good training if you like that stuff. On the main pinnacle is a blood-stained offwidth/corner crack. Up this and finish up R up the short jam crack. FA: Rick OÇain & Glenn Tempest, 1975 FFA: Rod Young & solo, 1975 | 18 | 22m | |||
4 |
Smiler Direct Finish
Finish L instead of R FA: Glenn Tempest, 1975 | 14 | 6m | |||
5 |
The Normal Way
On the uphill side of the Main Pinnacle. The short crack. FA: Jerry Maddox & Phillip Armstrong, 1975 | 14 | 15m | |||
6 |
Stilgar
About 30m uphill from the main pinnacle there is an obvious crack leading to an overhanging block. Climb the crack to the block and move R around the block and up to belay. FA: Rod Young, 1976 | 16 | 23m |
1.3. Topmost Pinnacle 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -37.385974, 145.785635
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Episode
The start has a reputation for spitting people off. Start on the E side of the top pinnacle are. Jam the desperate start, then hand traverse or jam the diagonal crack L to belay. FA: Rod Young & Jeremy Boreham, 1977 | 17 | 15m | |||
2 |
Blocky Dongo
The first climb in the area. The curving chimney on the top pinnacle. FA: Steven Griffin & Glenn Tempest, 1975 | 8 | 22m | |||
3 |
By Hook Or By Crook
The name tells a story. On the W face there is a crack parralell to a tree. Start up the crack to a vague rest at the horizontal break. Jam through the bulge and up to the top. The tree is not used for rest or aid - if its still there. FA: Richard Smith, Eric Jones & Glenn Tempest, 1982 | 20 | 15m | |||
4 |
★ Easy Virtue
Starts L of Magnetic Strands, on top of the boulders between the main pinnacle and BHOBC pinnacle. Balancy moves up the crack line and onto the slab above. FA: Richard Curtis & Richard Smith, 1982 | 18 | 10m | |||
5 |
Magnetic Strands Of Automatic Eyeballs
No where as good as the name suggests. Starts on the W facing ( North Jawbones side) face of the pinnacle, 1m R of BHOBC pinnacle.
FA: Rick OÇoin & Glenn Tempest, 1975 | 14 | 40m, 2 | |||
6 |
Rentorous Juttering
FA: Phillip Armstrong & Leon Saldon, 1975 | 14 M0 | 42m, 2 |