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Bisset's Pinnacles Guide

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 40

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Matt Brooks Richard Curtis Rod Young Philip Armstrong Josh Simpson Alister Robertson gavin reynolds Steve Bell

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Bisset's Pinnacles 33 routes in Area

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
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A
S
O
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D

Seasonality

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -37.385254, 145.786032

summary

Great technical climbing on Rhyolite high on the Blue range in a semi Alpine setting

description

The legendary crag of the Eastern district. Bissets is a bit disjointed and broken up with access from climb to climb being somewhat frustrating. The cliff is situated on the side of a very steep hillside high in the Blue range protected by Prickly Acacia and other skin and soul destroting native plants. The rock however is exceptionally hard, smooth, good quality, and the climbs good quality also. Due to the rock type the are lends its elf to the harder more technical climbs that the nearby sandstone. Protection in the cracks is generally excellent with nuts, cams and the occasional bolt or peg.

access issues

High on a steep hill protected by prickly shit.

approach

On the eastern side of Cooks Mill bridge is atrack (Little River Fire Track) heading east. The way is barred by a gate and signposted 'walkers only. Take this track, taking the left option a little way along. Foolw this till it makes a sharp L turn near the top of the ridge. . At this point Lowerson Walking track leads off right. This old logging track follows the contour and then turns abruptly downhill to the river. Find a suitable log to cross and make your way up stream until an opoening by some rock pools and slabs in the river. Double back about 30m to the rock fall on the steep uphill slope. Walk up the rock fall and soon a path should be found (starting near a large white tree) The way is steep but eventually the crag should be seen up on the L. The main pinnacle is easy to spot and makes a good place to drop gear. A fixed no smoking sign did mark the start of the track to get back down to the river.

  1. For those with a 4WD the Alternative is to bash in from Tweed Spur Track.

  2. It is also possible to to rock hop up and down the river from Cooks Mill in the drier months.

where to stay

Camp at Cooks Mill or Neds Gully, one of the local caravan parks or hotels in Alexandria, Buxton, marysville or Narbethong

ethic

Mixed and trads routes are presented.

1.1. Appastic Buttress - Main Cliff 21 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -37.385196, 145.786790

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Scene Of The Crime

'Stolen' Weel worth the effort. Starts at the Centre of Appastic Buttress. Follow the line L of Appatistic Crack. Delicate at first to clip the bolt (not really good) then follow the line to the top.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Richard Smith, 1982

21 Mixed trad 25m, 1
2 Scene Of The Crime Variant

Climb Appastic Crack until its possible to step L into a SOTC.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Richard Smith, 1982

17 Trad 25m
3 Appatisic Crack

The obvious curving crack on the R side of the Appastic Buttress.

FA: Phillip Armstrong & Rick OÇoin, 1976

11 Trad 20m
4 Young Flesh

U R of Appastic Buttress and just before the gully are a couple of obvious cracks. Jam the steep L hand crack, then take the easy corner.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Jerry Maddox, 1978

19 Trad 10m
5 Thermography

Half way up the L wall of the descent gully behind the main face there is square cut crack line. Traverse across the slab to the crack and up it.

FA: Phillip Armstrong & Dave McLean, 1977

10 Trad 20m
6 Surface Composition

On a small buttress up the R of Thermography are two parralell cracks. Bridge to start and take the R hand crack.

FA: Phillip Armstrong & Dave McLean, 1977

14 Trad 20m
7 Alias Smith And Jones

The thin and tenuous crack on the back wall at the rear of the finish to Erbiverous Delving. Up the crack and L onto the arete.

FA: Eric jones & Richard Smith, 1983

20 Trad 30m
8 Wuthering Heights

One of the best. Start as for Calabrian. Hand traverse L across the L leading horizontal crack to the centre of the wall. Follow the thin crack all the way to the top.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Jerry Maddox

19 Trad 25m
9 Calaban

A worthwhile jamming problem. Tape up. At the L hand end of the main face are two distinct cracks. Climb the L hand crack up to the overhang, step out and continue up the crack to the top.

FA: Rod Young, 1976

17 Trad 27m
10 Gates OF Delirium

Superb, but how thin are your fingers. Starts as for Calaban, but moves diagonally R to a horizontal break, then up the finger crack to exit L of the top block.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Rod Young, 1975

FFA: Glenn Tempest & Keith Egerton, 1977

21 Trad 22m
11 Erbiverous Delving

Take a trowel?

  1. 12m 14 Climb the scrubby corner to a cave on the L, move around the roof to a large ledge.

  2. 24m 14 (crux) Climb the corner at the R end of the ledge, past a fixed pin and continue up the chimney. Descent is down Abseil Flake Crack from a small bollard whick overlooks the gully behind the main cliff.

FA: Phillip Armstrong & Jerry Maddox, 1975

14 Trad 36m, 2
12 Erbiverous Delving Direct Start

Yuck. Starts 4m R of the original start, directly below the 2nd pitch. 1a Climb the wide crack to the overhang.

FA: Rod Young, 1976

14 Trad 5m
13 Abseil Flake Crack

Too short, but nice. Climb the flake crack to the bollard. There is a fixed pin here to rappel off in conjunction with the bollard.

FA: Eric Jones solo

15 Trad 10m
14 Guinevere

INteresting and varied. Towards the L end of the main face, there is an obvious groove crack which curves to the top. Start below the bush. Move up to traverse right wards to the line. Follow the larger crack to the top.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Phillip Armstrong, 1975

14 Trad 27m
15 Rough Cut

Exasperating. Starts as for G. Up the line then take the thin crack up the face. A mad dash L along the incipient edge leads onto the arete. Climb up the slab taking care bot to fall off (no runners).

FA: Glenn Tempest & Eric Jones, 1983

21 Trad 30m
16 Spiral Architect

The classic of the crag and under 20. The thin cae crack in the centre of the wall. Climb the short hard wall to start, past a pin (use it if you have to) to gain the starting ledge. MOve L along the ledge until under the rather obvious crack. Follow the crack as it get thinner all the way. Back up the Bolt Belay witha nut which should be there. Do not abseil off the bolt.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Phillip Armstrong & Rod Young, 1976

18 Trad 30m
17 Come Up And Winch Me Sometime

Mundane. Starts at the top of Spiral Architect. Clip the Bolt, mantle, then L up the line, go L to the bush. Up the crack.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Austin Leggler (US) & Mary Fowler (US), 1984

18 Mixed trad 20m, 1
18 Deep Space

The second pitch is nice, the first a disaster. On the main face there is an obvious offwidth which continues as a thin crack. To start, get to the ledge as for Spiral Architect.

  1. 20m 20 Crux, Move up to the Offwidth, surmount the overhang and continue to the ledge and belay.

  2. 20m 20 Continue up the thin crack to a small overhang, bridge it and move on to the top. Rod Young conceived and did the 1st Pitch but failed go further.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Jeremy Maddox & Rod Young, 1978

20 Trad 40m, 2
19 Cutting It Fine

Some very hard moves. Takes the obvious curving crack at the L side of the black wall. The start is laybacked into the thin section. Up this (crux), then continue jamming to the flake. Follow this to belay under the roof.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Richard Smith, 1982

23 Trad 30m
20 Pacemaker

Steep and fingery and a wee bit bold. May need a clean after winter. The impossible looking seam in the centre of the black wall. Past 3 pins to the top. The first pin is miles off the ground.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Richard Smith, 1982

23 Trad 25m
21 Rock Zealot

Great Climbing i an exposed position. Starting on a ledge at the top of Cutting It Fine. Up to reach the flat top, then jam up the crack.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Jerry Maddox, 1978

21 Trad 20m

1.2. Main Pinnacle 6 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -37.385573, 145.786207

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Haemorrhoid

It will give you just that lol. Start on the back of the main pinnacle opposite Pacemaker. Jam the crack to the top.

FA: Rod Young, 1976

17 Trad 30m
2 Thrills And Spills

Steep and technical. Will go free at some point. Starts at the wall down and L of Smiler. Boulder the wall with no pro to a pea-pod and a fixed pin (about Gr 19). Hard moves up and onto the ramp and follow this to the black wall. One or two aids brings the diagonal to hand. Swing R and up this to the top.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1985

26 M1 Aid 25m
3 Smiler

Good training if you like that stuff. On the main pinnacle is a blood-stained offwidth/corner crack. Up this and finish up R up the short jam crack.

FA: Rick OÇain & Glenn Tempest, 1975

FFA: Rod Young & solo, 1975

18 Trad 22m
4 Smiler Direct Finish

Finish L instead of R

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1975

14 Trad 6m
5 The Normal Way

On the uphill side of the Main Pinnacle. The short crack.

FA: Jerry Maddox & Phillip Armstrong, 1975

14 Trad 15m
6 Stilgar

About 30m uphill from the main pinnacle there is an obvious crack leading to an overhanging block. Climb the crack to the block and move R around the block and up to belay.

FA: Rod Young, 1976

16 Trad 23m

1.3. Topmost Pinnacle 6 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -37.385974, 145.785635

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Episode

The start has a reputation for spitting people off. Start on the E side of the top pinnacle are. Jam the desperate start, then hand traverse or jam the diagonal crack L to belay.

FA: Rod Young & Jeremy Boreham, 1977

17 Trad 15m
2 Blocky Dongo

The first climb in the area. The curving chimney on the top pinnacle.

FA: Steven Griffin & Glenn Tempest, 1975

8 Trad 22m
3 By Hook Or By Crook

The name tells a story. On the W face there is a crack parralell to a tree. Start up the crack to a vague rest at the horizontal break. Jam through the bulge and up to the top. The tree is not used for rest or aid - if its still there.

FA: Richard Smith, Eric Jones & Glenn Tempest, 1982

20 Trad 15m
4 Easy Virtue

Starts L of Magnetic Strands, on top of the boulders between the main pinnacle and BHOBC pinnacle. Balancy moves up the crack line and onto the slab above.

FA: Richard Curtis & Richard Smith, 1982

18 Trad 10m
5 Magnetic Strands Of Automatic Eyeballs

No where as good as the name suggests. Starts on the W facing ( North Jawbones side) face of the pinnacle, 1m R of BHOBC pinnacle.

  1. 25, Climb the mossy line.

  2. 15m 14 crux, Climb the overhang on the L.

FA: Rick OÇoin & Glenn Tempest, 1975

14 Trad 40m, 2
6 Rentorous Juttering
  1. 25m 14 As for Magnetic Strands.

  2. 17m 14M0 Flick a tape onto a high jug on the arete and use it to for aid to surrmount the overhang. Continue up the crack above to a ledge, traverse around the arete to belay.

FA: Phillip Armstrong & Leon Saldon, 1975

14 M0 Aid 42m, 2

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
8 Blocky Dongo Trad 22m 1.3. Topmost Pinnacle
10 Thermography Trad 20m 1.1. Appastic Buttress - Main Cliff
11 Appatisic Crack Trad 20m 1.1. Appastic Buttress - Main Cliff
14 Erbiverous Delving Trad 36m, 2 1.1. Appastic Buttress - Main Cliff
Erbiverous Delving Direct Start Trad 5m 1.1. Appastic Buttress - Main Cliff
Guinevere Trad 27m 1.1. Appastic Buttress - Main Cliff
Surface Composition Trad 20m 1.1. Appastic Buttress - Main Cliff
Smiler Direct Finish Trad 6m 1.2. Main Pinnacle
The Normal Way Trad 15m 1.2. Main Pinnacle
Magnetic Strands Of Automatic Eyeballs Trad 40m, 2 1.3. Topmost Pinnacle
14 M0 Rentorous Juttering Aid 42m, 2 1.3. Topmost Pinnacle
15 Abseil Flake Crack Trad 10m 1.1. Appastic Buttress - Main Cliff
16 Stilgar Trad 23m 1.2. Main Pinnacle
17 Calaban Trad 27m 1.1. Appastic Buttress - Main Cliff
Scene Of The Crime Variant Trad 25m 1.1. Appastic Buttress - Main Cliff
Haemorrhoid Trad 30m 1.2. Main Pinnacle
Episode Trad 15m 1.3. Topmost Pinnacle
18 Come Up And Winch Me Sometime Mixed trad 20m, 1 1.1. Appastic Buttress - Main Cliff
Spiral Architect Trad 30m 1.1. Appastic Buttress - Main Cliff
Smiler Trad 22m 1.2. Main Pinnacle
Easy Virtue Trad 10m 1.3. Topmost Pinnacle
19 Wuthering Heights Trad 25m 1.1. Appastic Buttress - Main Cliff
Young Flesh Trad 10m 1.1. Appastic Buttress - Main Cliff
20 Alias Smith And Jones Trad 30m 1.1. Appastic Buttress - Main Cliff
Deep Space Trad 40m, 2 1.1. Appastic Buttress - Main Cliff
By Hook Or By Crook Trad 15m 1.3. Topmost Pinnacle
21 Gates OF Delirium Trad 22m 1.1. Appastic Buttress - Main Cliff
Rock Zealot Trad 20m 1.1. Appastic Buttress - Main Cliff
Rough Cut Trad 30m 1.1. Appastic Buttress - Main Cliff
Scene Of The Crime Mixed trad 25m, 1 1.1. Appastic Buttress - Main Cliff
23 Cutting It Fine Trad 30m 1.1. Appastic Buttress - Main Cliff
Pacemaker Trad 25m 1.1. Appastic Buttress - Main Cliff
26 M1 Thrills And Spills Aid 25m 1.2. Main Pinnacle
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