Ascents in Victoria as Hang dog as sport by Josh Ellis

Loathe to log this. After a mentally shaky weekend of not really sending anything this one was my “sure thing”. Had done all the moves before and felt very doable. Backed off putting the clips in as my wrist felt tweaky on a sloper. Taped it up, went again DID THE CRUX chill as, got a no hands knee bar mid traverse, then just chickened out right before the chains. Didn’t have the beans third go. Something about this climb always results in a shite trip.

Had ambitions to do “Velvet Goldmine” but after a shaky warmup on “Terminal Insomnia” I wasn’t really up for it. Decided to retry the moves on this as Ben had it up. Did all the moves which was nice, but didn’t have a red point burn, was feeling too shaky.

Bring your steel finger and toes caps for this one! Took a while to figure out, a fair bit of lichen and no chalk to be seen. But actually pretty good climbing. Fairly spicy even with the extra bolt!

Bloody shocker of a day for me by this point, fell off the 21, couldn’t do the dyno on the 26 and then fell off this. Cool moves but absolute bag of sand, unless I’m missing something it felt maybe a grade “easier” then the 26!

Another day, another punt! Didn’t have any expectations given my recent shoulder injury but actually felt surprisingly good. Third go I actually hit the “final” hold but didn’t quite grasp it properly!

Went into the first go so confident I was gonna’ send, lined up perfectly for dead point and then somehow still ended up dangling! 🤷‍♀️ Went to lower tier to climb some over stuff as the block was fairly busy, came back up later for round two. Bit tired but still determined, lined up again and somehow the rope kinda’ got tangled round my knee right at the crux, faffed and fell. Tried the move again and same thing happed! Reminder to self: longer draw on the far left bolt otherwise you get tangled!

Cool link up! Boogie is the route that just keeps on giving! Thought it might go second go but the dead point I’m doing is a little bit low percentage. I’ll be back!

So close second go! Good training I guess…

I’m fucking loathed to even log this. Can’t believe I’ve waited this long to fucking punt off this, what a bellend.

Tried it, sussed the crux beta (high right foot kneebar scum) thought oh yea “that’ll go next go” then fucking wrecked myself putting up "media puzzle" and climbing it like a wanker. Had terminal pump before even getting on but the weather was miserable so just wanted to get the gear down. Didn’t send. Cleaned in pissing rain. All round worst day I’ve climbing over had in probably over a year. Well done to Tommathy swift for getting his first 26 though.

Pretty fingery and actually quite good. Probably not the best condies for it today was a bit humid. Only one go as it started raining.

Fucking nails!

Cool V5 on a rope! One go to figure it out, one go to fall off like a punter. Should have sent it got to the "jug" and tried a silly stem when I should have oulled through. Should go next time.

Warm up!

Flailed around for like 40 minutes trying to sus a sequence, figured it out still felt absolutely nails. Gave it a red-hot second try anyways, no dice. As I was accepting I’d never get this ever a “local” showed up (Steve I think, cheers Steve 👍 ) and gave me some beta to try. Went up with new beta and fell on the last hard move. New beta made it feel heaps more do able and pleasant! Gave it one more go but with the sun on it and little to no skin left (it’s a skin shedder!) it was pretty desperate! Pretty sure it’ll go next time now and I think I kinda’ enjoyed it even! 😂

Bit of a weird start! I feel like the rock is so visually noisy it’s hard to repeat a foot sequence. Thought it might go 2nd crack but the start kinda’ cooked me and I was trashed by the 3rd draw, then it rained! Maybe one day but not really in a rush to get back on it!

Moves felt way easier than last time, didn’t get any higher though. 🤷‍♀️

 

1. Ah it’s been so long, it all felt weird and hard… as it always does first go.

2. Could have been smoother but fought my way up to the last bolt and fell at the second last “hard(er)” move.

3. Smoother but tired, fell at the last bolt, last hard move. Sigh

Reckon I got it mostly figured out now. Hopefully next time. Left the draws on it, feel free to use ‘em, don’t feel free to take them home!

Nearly went second attempt, but foot slipped down low.