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Northern Group Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Warning

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

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Table of contents

1. Northern Group 22 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Sport climbing

approach

From Southern Group, Look North 100m across valley. Major Buttress is readily seen.

descent notes

Steep and Loose terrain like most areas within Lal Lal Forest.

1.1. Minor Buttress 1 route in Unknown

Summary:
All Trad climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Breakerful

On W face of R most buttress (Minor Buttress). Small corner then along edge to tree. Solo FA

3 Trad 6m

1.2. Middle Buttress 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad climbing and Sport climbing

approach

Middle in location and size of 3 Buttresses that make up this group.

descent notes

be careful on the steep, loose terrain

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Branch

at far L end of West face. Up past dead branch. Solo FA

4 Trad 8m
2 Thread

R of Branch. Up boulder. R to belay that gives the climb it's name

4 Trad 9m
3 Beaded Bubbles

1m L of arête. BB. Solo FA

5 Trad 10m
4 Winking At The Brim

Arete. Solo FA

5 Trad 10m
5 Magic Casements

Middle of S face of buttress. Up 2 tiers. 2BR. BB.

16 Sport 10m, 2

1.3. Major Buttress 16 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Rock climbing, Sport climbing and Trad climbing

approach

Right (East) most and largest of 3 buttresses in group

descent notes

Steep loose terrain to either side of buttress.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Biomorph

2m uphill and L of Left most arête on Southern face of Major Buttress. 3BR. BB

8 Unknown 13m, 2
2 endomorph

Arete on L side of S face. 2BR

8 Unknown 15m, 2
3 Auricle

2m R Endomorph. From terrace either stay right of Endomorph or continue as for Endomorph. 3BR. BB

10 Unknown 16m, 3
4 Malleus

Short corner in center of S face, then face to top. 3BR. BB

13 Unknown 17m, 3
5 The Ear

R of M. Up to terrace than continue up as for M. 3BR. BB

Unknown 3
6 Incus

A few m R of The Ear. 2BR. BB

9 Unknown 17m, 2
7 Stapes

Just R of I. Up Cleft to terrace then arête. 2BR.BB

9 Unknown 17m, 2
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 Cochlea

Around R and uphill from Stapes. Groove to arête. 2 BR

9 Unknown 10m, 2
9 Warm South

The groove R of C all the way. Solo FA

5 Trad 9m
10 Embalmed Darkness

1m R of WS. 2BR

12 Sport 9m, 2
11 Wings Of Poesy

just R of ED. BR. BB.

9 Sport 9m, 1
12 Bacchus And His Pards

2m R of WoP using the same BR as that climb

8 Unknown 11m, 1
13 Draught Of Vintage

1m R of BaHP. Up to tree and then BR.

5 Sport 9m, 1
14 Fairy Lands Forlorn

Overhang to the R. BR. BB.

17 Unknown 8m, 1
15 Fade Far Away

Arete near uphill end of East face. 1BR

8 Unknown 12m, 1
16 Dissolve

Corner just R of FFA. Solo FA

4 Trad 11m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
3 Breakerful Trad 6m 1.1. Minor Buttress
4 Branch Trad 8m 1.2. Middle Buttress
Thread Trad 9m 1.2. Middle Buttress
Dissolve Trad 11m 1.3. Major Buttress
5 Beaded Bubbles Trad 10m 1.2. Middle Buttress
Winking At The Brim Trad 10m 1.2. Middle Buttress
Draught Of Vintage Sport 9m, 1 1.3. Major Buttress
Warm South Trad 9m 1.3. Major Buttress
8 Bacchus And His Pards Unknown 11m, 1 1.3. Major Buttress
Biomorph Unknown 13m, 2 1.3. Major Buttress
Fade Far Away Unknown 12m, 1 1.3. Major Buttress
endomorph Unknown 15m, 2 1.3. Major Buttress
9 Cochlea Unknown 10m, 2 1.3. Major Buttress
Incus Unknown 17m, 2 1.3. Major Buttress
Stapes Unknown 17m, 2 1.3. Major Buttress
Wings Of Poesy Sport 9m, 1 1.3. Major Buttress
10 Auricle Unknown 16m, 3 1.3. Major Buttress
12 Embalmed Darkness Sport 9m, 2 1.3. Major Buttress
13 Malleus Unknown 17m, 3 1.3. Major Buttress
16 Magic Casements Sport 10m, 2 1.2. Middle Buttress
17 Fairy Lands Forlorn Unknown 8m, 1 1.3. Major Buttress
? The Ear Unknown 3 1.3. Major Buttress
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