Routes in Victoria for selected grade

Not positively located. Possibly 'The Joker' is a repeat of this route. This is not a major attraction. Start at the white outcrop of rock at the base of the cliff half way along. Up the weakness veering right near top to easier ground.

At the right side of the cliff at a little arching flake line. This is about 12 metres right of 'Small Change' and just left of the second dead tree from the left.

The grassy corner at the right end of the wall. If you value ankles over a purist ethic perhaps clip the first bolt on LIB. DBB at top.

Cairned. The black buttress which is undercut on its right side and with a smooth orange wall below an overlap; near the middle of the cliff. Step up right from easy line on left, and then up (easing significantly).

Chimney line 10m right of 'Carry On Up The Chimney'.

1. 40m Start in the back of the chimney and chimney up and out to front. Up line to big ledge below steep walls.

2. 15m [crux] Steep wide crack in back corner of bay.

Arête at right side of wall, then step round roof. Loose territory above.

Follows the R edge of the central slab, starts in the large gully in the centre of the cliff, L of Peeping Tom. 3x50m Pitches.

The short steep right hand crack

Start just left of Menlove Edwards Meets Conan Doyle. Follow the crack-line, step left at the top to pull through overhang. Belay here or step to the right. Scramble up and off or abseil.

Loose and poorly protected.

Start: Start 3 metres right of "Sihaya" just left of the arete.

1. 37m (17) Follow a flake on the arete onto the right wall. Continue over a bulge to a slab below the roof and traverse back left to the arete. Climb the dubious flake on the arete and move left to belay.

2. 13m (-) On up the line.

A good pitch but a bit out of place with only easy options for approach and finish.

Start at second belay; this is also the second belay of "Beau Geste", at the top of the neat little corner.

Climb orange wall up and right to arete and continue up arete until it joins the original line (crack curving in from left) and eases. Continue easily to belay.

Up the right side of the shield to horizontals near the top. Traveres left to the arete and up.

Start: Start 18 metres right of the left end of the cliff. There is a shield formation forming a flake-line on each of its sides.

Scary slabbing. Starts behind the cypress pines in the small ‘cove’ on river left. Straight up the clean black streak.

Overhang to the R. BR. BB.

Start 10m left of Extinct at left side of large ceiling/corner with guano in it.

1. ?m Dirty, right-facing corner to small ledge.

2. ?m Corner past guano stain to small roof. Left, then head wall.

A variant that links P1 of Calabrese into P2 of Salami.

1. 35m (17) Up Calabrese P1 until the comfy ledge at about 20m (optional belay, as for Calabrese). Instead of stepping right to the flake as for Calabrese, continue up the thin intermittent crack, to join the sharp undercut flake on P2 of Salami. Once past this, build an anchor.

2. 20m (-) Dawdle to the top.

Direct version of 'Snorkler'. Needs checking out and cleaning up but could well be very good climb. Have given it a star for luck

Start: Start at the open groove as for 'Snorkler'.

1. 15m (17) Climb up to the bulge at 10 metres and go directly into the base of the 'Snorkler' corner.

2. 45m (17) Up the 'Snorkler' corner and continue up the corner rather than traversing off left. Move up lichenous walls and finish up an open corner.

Start: Start a few metres left of Commando Climb at a break in the overhang. There used to be some railings here but they have mercifully been removed.

1. 25m (17) Pull through overhang and go up and step right into left of two parallel grooves. Go up to below overhang.

2. 30m (-) Up right over loose block and up short groove. Step left to square-cut groove and climb it to next overhang. Crack above to bushy ledge below corner.

3. 20m (-) Corner, then crack on right wall. (? is this pitch Bernie's Open Book?)

Clip Leeper piton L of Hieracherthium after pulling around bulge.

Start on the north side of the pinnacle at the left end. Up to the left crack and on to the top on rounded holds.

Looks quite daunting for the grade.

Not positively identified

Start: On the left side of the wall facing AABOR and WYSIWYG. Presumably R of 'Yo Ho Ho'. From ledge, scramble off right over buttress to abseil tree.

Traverse right then up to gain right-veering crack. Up crack to take bulge on left.

Start: Start 4 metres right of "The Cut-Throat Business Of Haberdashery"

A smooth small wall facing north east approximately 70m up and right of Shattered Buttress. Climb to small sentry box. Take the right hand edge.

Starts up the shallow groove at the L hand side of the main face. Up the scoop (jugs on the L are out) to the ledge, and on to the bottom of the triangular hole (hard to see from the ground). Up L and take the thin crack to the ledge.

Where 'The Shrew' traverses right at 10m, climb directly up corner to ledge. Directly up wall.

Beautiful slab but a bit contrived. The finish was originally done as a variant finish to "Savage God" possibly by Hugh Foxcroft.

Slope up the wall and climb the bulge. Continue up the wall and finish directly over the top overhang.

Start: Start 4 metres right of 'Lizardry' below a cracked bulge at 4 metres.

Tacky. Take the easy crack 8 metres right of Restless until it blanks. Traverse left along break, up past tree to corner and up this. Gully walk-off is awful.

Where the seam thins down, climb wall on the left until the line can be regained.Onwards up line to top.

Start: Thin seam between 'Rocky Road' and 'Hump The Bluey'.

Two pitches of trad adventure squeezed into between the foreboding caves of the 'Ruined Castle'. Starts at polished yellow handcrack at left end of the Second Tier overhangs. Belay in cave halfway up. Step right then up wide layback crack to roof. Traverse out left to finish.

1. 25m As for 'Ancient Times' to R-hand end of the ledge. Progress to block at top of slab. 2) 35m (crux) Up and R across wall on in-cuts to base of juggy crack in steep wall. Motor up (sling runners) to a rest on the lip. Cross 'Ancient Times' to finish directly up the steep, juggy head-wall.

Right seam.

1. 20m Thin wall 2m right of Swamp Harrier. Traverse 4m left at sloping ledge.

2. 15m Knobbly crack (poor pro).

Start just L of the cave. Up to the next cave and a good thread runner. Pull through the overhang and continue to the top.

Down on the main wall. Follow the crack and bulges up the main wall that start out of the main cave. Pass the peg (placed by another older party) and watch out for the wasps.

Balancy face-climbing.

Start: Start at the back of the pinnacle, just R of L arete.

Right side of tunnel. Crack Half way up veer left up thin crack. Finish under roof

Start as for Looking For a route to the steepening then take the right-leaning crack to the top.

There is a huge block 60 metres downhill from Iago. On the NE side of the block is a steep slab. Step off the ground just left of centre of the face. Traverse right to the centre of the face and up. Allegedly adequate protection.

R and up at top.

Start: Start R of TFoC.

Not to be confused with the climb of the same name at Stapylton.

Start at the next west-facing wall up and right of Knights In White Satin from a block leaning against the face.

Up to prominent right-leading diagonal break. Follow this to some cracks through the overhang and take the right-hand crack to the top.

Just R of arête, and without using it. 4BR. DBB

Up Whiplash (Cheesecake) for 2½m. Traverse up left on stepped flake. Finish up middle break in wall to bushy ledge. Descend as for Whiplash.

There is a grade 17 crack on the block 40m below 'On Remand' facing back toward the main cliff (i.e facing east).

Major choss starting up 'Bus Stop' and finishing up the prominent corner to the left.

Start: Start as for 'Bus Stop'.

1. 42m (17) As for 'Bus Stop'.

2. 38m (-) Left to wide line, up a few metres and right onto face. Diagonally right, step right, straight up to ledge, left to belay.

3. 40m (17) Left into big corner. Up corner to rotten rock. Crack on right wall to overhang (? multiple peg runners, loose blocks). Dirty moves into clean corner. Up to top with a deviation onto right arete.

Tiered, R leading crack. Up short L facing corner beside block then traverse L to line. Up

Wanders its way up the ground (the word is used deliberately) right of 'Epicurian' in search of rock that will stay attached to the cliff.

1. 12m Little corner 6m right of 'Epicurian' to grassy ledge. Up line then step right to arete.

2. 18m Traverse left and up into shallow flaring chimney (big loose flake on left). Up this chimney and exit right over more loose blocks. Up easier crack to step right udner prow.

3. 18m Corner right of prow. Bush and dirt leads to crack above and up until able to traverse right to below twin cracks.

4. 12m Twin cracks then exit right. Wall, overhang and short crack.

The right end of the north face. Up to the righthand crack and up it.

Start: Approx 100metres right of 'Peanuts', which places it somewhere near 'Blackfoot', is a small cairn at the base of a nice crack, which takes good wires to a horizontal break at 4m. Dance between twin cracks to unlikely looking steep bulge, which is well protected (0.3+0.4 BD) and much easier than it looks on good holds. When on the Face above move left to large ledge with tree abseil. Rap approx 25m to ground from tree.

Start 2 metres left of "I Used To Be etc". Climb on small edges to horizontal break then straight up wall to ledge. Walk off left to gully.

Steep climbing on generally good rock. Start 4 metres left of Android Dreaming's belay. Straight up wall to short corner. Up to horizontal break then pull through onto steep headwall. Step right, to finish just left of Android Dreaming.

Blunt arete 2m right of Vibrio Parahaemolyticus. 1 BR

Chimney behind boulder of DP. Old BR and PR.

Start at the base of Savage God, on the right wall.

The crack through the vertical black stain to the arete. The arete to the top. Aid used by leader was not required by second.

Up line 1.5 metres right of "Blowing Gum" to overlap and through

This route takes a black groove at the right hand end of the ledge. Belay at ledge from where it is possible to walk off right.

Two great corners with exposed traverse.

A fun well protected climb under two small orange roofs.

Bridge or stem up grey corner to orange corner then across right under small orange roof with seam down the centre. Once up and under larger orange roof, lay out left placing gear and find your way up using two finger slot. Finish at rap station.

Third line from right end of left cliff, with tree at 12m. From top of crack step right and climb middle of buttress.

Start as for Old Tech, then continue up the crack on the right edge of the buttress. Abseil from a tree at the top.

From final overhang, hand-traverse right. Pull through bulge, then short wall above.

Large crack/corner right of Peters Out To Nothing

1. 40m Climb slab using back against roof or layback the edge

2. 40m Step right over overlap (crux) and up the flake to surmount the next bulge. Up the slab to much easier ground above. Belay on the knob

3. 45m Straight up o the top. Belay on trees.

R-leading diagonal for 2m. Delicately up and follow L line.

Start: On the steep, yellow buttress most prominent from the road, just behind (south of) Pangaea Wall. Start 4m L of undercut arete.

Brittle rock. Scramble up 8m to belay on prominent block 40m R of GB and at R end of scrubby slab. Thin L slanting line.