Routes in Victoria for selected grade

another sit start from the clif side of the boulder. Again it's a difficulty first move or two and then easy. uses the really nice natural jug

On the Walking Track Slabs. A short bunch of slabs on the R before leaving the main walking track.

Follow the clean line through the overlap past 2 bolts.

Best route here. Up to the crack 2m R of Ice T to a BR, then R and up R of scoop. Run it out on much easier ground to the top.

This fine line used to have a reputation as some sort of horror-show with poor rock and protection. This has seen the climb get little attention. Jerry Maddox enhanced the climb's poor image by adding a direct finish that was characterised by dirt and loose flakes. However recent ascents have established that the route is a ripper, especially if the maligned direct finish (as described) is used. A sustained, demanding climb that should be on everyone's Rosea tick-list.

Include some large gear and slings in the rack.

Start: The chimney 15m left of "The Last Act". Initialled "DG".

1. 20m (15) Start up the left wall and then follow the steep crack to a big ledge.

2. 36m (17) The sustained line 5m left of the chimney past an overhang at 30 metres to a big ledge. Take some care with the rock at the start. Protection is adequate but not brilliant.

3. 33m (17) Climb crack to bulge. Continue straight up steep groove on flakes (original traverses 6 metres left to another groove and goes up that) to top. Take some care with the rock but protection is good.

It was thought that combining the good first two pitches of 'The Sloth' with the DG DF would give a really great route. However, the linkup is contrived and difficult and it is much better to do 'Sloth' with it's own direct finish.

Superb, but all too short, orange wall. Originally done in two pitches. Start 13 metres left of Soaked And Smoked directly below an obvious break in the roof just left of the triangular orange wall and roof. Up to the roof at 10 metres(belay possible). Pull easily through roof then directly up the compact orange wall above. Tend right at the bush to finish beneath the "jaws".

Starts at the L most black streak on the face 30m up the gully right of the toe of the buttress.

Originally done with two pitches, the rap anchor at the end of the first pitch turns it into a good single pitch climb. It also comes into the shade reasonably early.

Start at flake 5 metres up and right of Vandal. Layback the flake left then climb the right wall of Vandal. Ignore Vandal's first belay and continue steeply up crack in right wall to ledge and bolt anchors 5 metres back. The second pitch went up a little then up the easy arete.

A way up. The first 2 pitches make an OK easier excursion.

Start: As for IRBS.

1. 18m (14) As for IRBS

2. 30m (15) Crack and short walls above to large terrace at top of buttress. [Possible, and preferable, to scramble down L from here to a large tree and abseil].

3. 28m (17) Starting from the gap at the rear of the terrace take the flake to the horizontal break on the steep buttress. Traverse steeply L and up to weakness. Continue to ledge at top of buttress then up short walls to top

Climb the rib R of TT then step L onto blocks below roof. Straight up through this. Probably very undergraded.

The 2nd pitch is a good sustained corner. Worth doing. Started originally as for 'Karen Alexander' but the first pitch of that climb is so mossy now that it is best avoided. The first pitch is just a way to get to the corner.

Start: 22m R of 'Dedication'. A big L facing corner leading to a roof.

1. 30m (15) Up crack 8m L of the initials KA. Follow this until the angle eases and it is possible to traverse R on a mossy ledge to an easy corner. Up this to the foot of the main steep corner.

2. 31m (17) Corner to roof, traverse R under this to ledge.

3. 25m (6) Up easily.

The late Dennis Kemp said that this was one of only two climbs that he had done at Arapiles that he would not consider repeating. Start just R of Bass Clef, directly below the chimney of Bass Clef.

1. 30m (17) Directly up thin lichenous seams to the base of the chimney of Bass Clef, then up right on black slab to the foot of a crack just left of Tremulo. Up this crack to a stance atop a short chimney. The abseil chain on Tremulo is just a step to the right, not that we're suggesting running away or anything like that.

2. 15m (-) Step left and climb front of buttress.

3. 25m (-) Up crest of buttress finishing steeply past gnome.

4. 5m (-) The crack behind. Rope drag could be a problem.

Interesting and challenging crack climbing at the grade, a few bulges, and minimal grotty stuff. The last little overhang brings you into a bit of moss fest.

Something for everyone. Climb the major yellow corner 8m down right of Space Cadets. Finish up the left arête then the groove. Pass three bolts en route.

A highly featured solitary boulder to the left of the Valley View track used to access the Rock Garden and Trig Boulders. It is not around the Trig Boulders.

A sit start left to right traverse block. "Rising Slowly". Mantle over the lip.

A series of sustained moves.

1. Start as for The Parsons Nose Direct Start and continue directly through overlap and seam and up steep wall. Belay at ledge.

2. Move left through right facing corner and tricky overhang a few metres right of The Great White Hope.

Surprisingly good climbing for this section of the wall. 5m R of Explorer’s Groove, the second seam R of EG. Up to and up seam/crack to ledge, slightly L and up head wall via FH to ledge. DBB and abseil.

Seam 2m R of Pleading Guilty to BR and R onto slab. Finish up crack on right arete or overlap.

1. 26m (11) Up the right arete of the Revelations cleft to big ledge.

2. 24m (17) Pull overhang between Revelations and The Bishop then trend right and up or continue up front of buttress (but be careful of huge detached blocks).

Quite committing. Starts 3m right of Zabriskie Delicately past BR (hard to see from the ground) and step right into the line which bounds the right side of the steep wall. Follow the line to the ledge and walk left to the Zabriskie bolts.

SDS short arete.

Corner crack 4m right of Obelix to weakness. R along diagonal to belay on the arete.

1m right of Light Rail past BR and over horizontal

Up central slab following thin vertical seam.

Up central finger crack to top. Avoid RHS crack.

SDS arete. Eliminate the shelf to the left

Short undercut slab just left of the central descent.

Scramble up the gully just right of Notes On Pillows, about a third of the way up, opposite a small block is a wall with an obvious break at half height. Up the face to the break (#2½ , 3 cams), then past a bolt.

The right crack just left of the cave.

SDS V1 option as a highball boulder problem

There is also a line on the left edge of the small cave

SDS V1 up till over the initial bulge and at the base of the left facing corner above. Either down climb and drop off or move left and finish up Down the Gurgler.

Start up the undercut arete 3m R of On Probation, past a bad BR, then up the enjoyable arete.

Up crack until it peters out., step right with difficulty, then up more easily in the juggy line above.

Start: On the left arete of "Zsa-Zsa's Crack" is a crack that peters out.

Corner-crack with a scary finish on L arete.

Start as for 'Rush'. Blast over bulge and continue up the wall.

1. 20m (17) Up L) arete of Don’t Wet The Car Buttress past 4x FH, into crack system via trad. Continuing up past 2x FH to DBB.

2. 30m (11) from the belay tending up and right through weakness in bulge. From here, tending back left to continue up arete to top of pillar.

Short with lack of protection, watch for loose hollow block at the start. Very ordinary.

Start In the middle of the second tor down from Bug Powder Dust. Climb past loose block up shallow unprotected crack.

Climb face a couple of metres right of the wide crack. When the easier slab is reached, drift leftish to tree.

Start: Start about 25 metres right of "Aimless Blade" ata wide crack.

From 3 R of NU, Move R to vertical crack / groove. There is a direct version up layback crack, that doesn't appear to be described, which has a hard start and takes small cams (add about 2 grades).

On Nth face, from RH corner up to BR then up.

Short crack. Very short.

Start: Start at the right hand end of the wall that contains Lou.

Major diagonal line starting 5m R of GB. Committing unprotected start up seam then sustained diagonal line to join Sparks Victoria at its large tree. A better protected option is to start up Sparks Vic then step L into BB at 4m. Probably grade 16 done this way.

1. First pitch of Arab.

2. Directly up face from double ring anchor to roof, climbing over the roof to the right a bit at the giant horn. Belay just after roof.

3. Climb up to the summit on the face keeping 2 meters to the right of Sacana corner when they connect mid-way.

Pleasant slab. Start just down left of Apollo at a small pillar.Up the pillar, then continue up just left of the arete.

Just left of right arete.

First bolted line left of the boulder. Steep start to bulges to slab. Rings at belay.

On the L front of the Here's Trouble pinnacle. Climb the steep corner and crack.

If you only scare yourself on one route this year, make this the one. A fantastically scary (but safe) through a large roof a long way up the Pharos. The best grade 16 roof at Arapiles. Start from the right hand end of the large ledge at the end of Spiral Staircase's 2nd pitch beneath a crack through a roof. There used to be a 'map of Italy' hanging down, but that's gone.

1. 6m (17) Up to roof and out to stance and belay.

2. 24m (12) Step back left over the void and up. The top pitch of Spiral can be done to finish.

3. -m (-) A third pitch has been done by stepping across and climbing the wall left of the top pitch of Spiral. Eric Jones, Richard Smith, Paul Hoskins, sometime in 2001.

Sit start at crimp, straight up and mantle to finish.

SDS Face immediately left of Getting Laid. Crux is avoiding the face immediately behind.

Nice finger jamming with good pro. Follow the small crack left of the bolted route. Rap off TFG anchor.

Slab around left of Half Man, Half Biscuit.

Up right over the diagonal and on up the slab. 5 fixed hangers to lower off.

Can be top roped off DBB on top of the block.

Located on the East corner of the tor. The crux comes early and is well protected by a bolt (fixed hanger, gain by standing on the small detached flake). From there head up easy slab using the thin crack for pro (slightly fiddly wires and small cams).

Continue south and uphill past the Braveheart terrace. To the southwest is a corridor formed by two boulders. The western boulder is capped by a split block and has a crack which doesn't reach the ground. Tartan goes up the arete at the north end of the corridor. Breach the cap via the horizontal break.

Quite dicky on the initial face and protection on the middle section is not the best. A good climb which would improve with traffic (or a concerted cleaning effort). Originally done in two pitches but much safer to do as one.

Start at the small corner as for 'Deflated' etc.

Up corner, step right onto face and up seam to small stance. Slightly left and up into shallow groove (several #3 RPs useful) and finish up right arete.

Traverse out above The Flashing Blade, using the handholds of that route as footholds!

going up the cliff behind and to the right of the main pewter city blocks. start with hands on the lower ledge and move up directly using horizontal cracks and good crimps

Up R to small flake, then up R to L end of a ledge. Poxy flake to finish.

Start: Start 5m down R of OL.

Downhill of cave - do not climb in this area

Chimney 10m right of MVS, then wanders all over the shop.

On the right wall of the three buttresses is a large flake system. Climb easily up to the roof. Traverse left under the roof and go up the crack.

SDS Short left arete starting in the break

Up diagonal line right until short corner on right of the phallus. Up this behind Phallus exiting around side. Now mount phallus and ejaculate onself through roof. Continue upwards to distinct orange mini-scoop with crack through middle. Don't escape right or left but bridge through roof to belay. Finish up Sweet Surrender's second pitch or do Where's Merilyn?

Start: 3m Right of the Verge.

Left-leaning ramp 15 metres right of "Day Of The Fox". Above the bulge, finish just right of the arete.

Up to BR and crack 4m R of Skunk Hour, BR, finsih directly up slab.

Two clean, varied and enjoyable grade 17 pitches which deserve to be popular. Their are abseil chains at the top. 2x50m ropes required.

Start: Crack 4m R of KotSW and 3m L of the prominent corner of 'Conqueror'.

1. 25m (17) Climb crack, when it stops above steep wall step R and climb 'Conqueror' for 4m to sloping ledge on L.

2. 25m (17) L facing corner above. A nice pitch of jamming and bridging.

Step left and up to gain the finger crack a metre left of Names Games, follow it up.

Some good climbing but a bit inconsistant with some sections of loose rock remaining. Needs a good clean to be more enjoyable.

Start: this area is located around 250m up and left of 'Red Chilli Nights'. A big gully on the right side of the wall with a dark slab is a major feature. Starts 5m right of ramp at left end of cliff (about 25m down and left of

1. 28m (16) Tend right into seam, then follow this left and up to ledge.

2. 50m (17) Follow ledge left to steep black wall just left of corner. Up this to ledge. Step right into corner and up corner (great stemming and laybacking) to big ledge.

3. 50m (12) Enjoyable but poorly protected face climbing to big ledge, easily up wall above this to belay on very top

This is a very short route on the shorter portion of the wall. This route only uses the plug and feather masonry drill holes for the hands. Standing start with both hands on the undercling drill holds that are 75cm up from the ground, there are two more hand holds 90cm directly up from the start holds. This boulder is just an awkward start. Good introductory climb for these sorts of routes on this wall (Many of which have bird names, hence the name of this route)

3rd BR from L

Start: Prominent corner L of 'Spin Doctor'. BD4 useful.

Sustained and worthwhile. Thin buttress 6m R of TK, between chimney and gully. Rib to L leading seam, then R leaning crack which them dog-legs back L.

Good varied little climb. Crack 10m R of L end of cliff.

Line on left side of curved, recessed wall left of Daggy Dance.

Up diagonal crack as for P2 of MB, step R at top then directly up face via thin seam.

3m R of Foot Fetish. Past undercling (cam), clip BR continue up diagonal crack (cam) to Foot Fetish top BR

A harder finish to "Beat Route". Up this to roof and pull over on brittle holds to right.

Bridging moves lead to a good jam-crack almost in the chimney corner.

Start: Start 10 metres right of "Just Right" just left of a chimney-cleft.

Seam and crack above. Jaming not really required