Routes in Victoria for selected grade

Demanding bouldery cruxes and intimidatingly huge dynos. According to Dave Jones, 'Malcolm only ever bolted this because he'd just done Mirage and thought he could dyno the full height of the cliff'. Start about 15m R of The Seventh Pillar, 2-3m R of Slytherin.

1. 28m (33) 3FHs (enormous dyno at 3rd, Rainbow Rocket -style), to gain THE break about 6-8m R of the Seventh Pillar bolt ladder. Continue up the desperate looking face past 3 FHs which trend R into a thin L-facing flake. Follow this to a chain below the main roof (30m rap).

2. 20m (32/3) This is the left-most bolted line through the major roof which extends all the way from The Seventh Pillar to Serpentine, halfway up Taipan. Another all points off dyno plus amazing water scoop/arete climbing, ending at the 3rd pitch traverse break of The Seventh Pillar. Nalle thought pitch 1 was a bit harder than this pitch, but maybe not by much!

3. 14m (29) Quetzalcoatl last pitch.

Extension to Kundalini. Adds another 7m of hard climbing on thin crimps and pockets and a final jump to the ledge.

Hardest route in the Grampians?

Start: Link-up of Daniel Or-Tiger into Somoza via some mind-blowing climbing. Very sustained with a bouldery crux.

Deterred many very strong suitors for many years and finally fell to the Kiwi Wizz kid

Just another incredible looking line on Taipan. It's the orange streak directly above Snake Flake's anchor, climbed in a single pitch from the ground.

An extension to Groovy, this was briefly the hardest route on the wall and may be the best. Climb it in 1 pitch from the ground. The sheer face above the finish of the Groovy groove is sparsely bolted (despite a dubious retrobolt by Dave Graham ... which lasted about 5 seconds after he left) up the black streak to a lower off. Can seep. Equipped by Zac Vertrees and Mike Law (with the top lower-off added by Jake Bresnehan), this was attempted by a who's who of Australian hard-men over 7 years before Ben's success.

Ben Cossey FA of Groove Train https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H-PsXKda6JU

The visionary black streaks and water grooves about 5-8m R of Naja. The joke used to be that Steve Monks "marked his turf" at the top of Naja after every shot; it looks like perhaps Lee did too! Start as for Naja. Up Naja for 2 or 3 bolts then traverse right via an obvious undercling flake a few metres above the low roof. Use long (2m) extenders for this section. Now follow the incredible grooves, ignore the half-height anchor, and continue up via amazing sustained climbing on slopey edges to the top of the wall in one single mega pitch. Rap anchor (55m).

a.k.a Enter the Dragon, a.k.a. Mortal Combat. This is the subtle groove about 6-8m R of Mr J's arête. "33/34" with tricky beta on both cruxes and lots of kneebar action, says Alex. Start at the DRB at the base of Venom. Trend L past FH, through desperately blank looking bulge, to follow the line of anti-holds up the attractive faint groove, joining Venom at the big break. Nalle reported "8B boulder section with very precise and shoulder intensive moves, bad feet and the two worst slopers I’ve ever seen on a route. This is followed by an easier but absolutely amazing scoopy section to a pretty ok rest. From there you set up for one of the craziest dynos I’ve ever done! If you stick the low percentage dyno, there’s still a sustained run-out section with long moves to the anchor".

This route was previously known as The Sean Myles Project and bolted in around '92 by its English namesake. Like a woody problem on classic Arapilisian bums through a steep wall to finish up crimpy headwall. Start at base of roof left of Aristocrat (clip the 3 dynas with single biners for ease of climbing, and to keep rope away from holds). Slappy compression leads to base of seam. Clip bolt at lip and head straight up via pulls between edges and last bolt to easy finish and single bolt lower-off.

Joins the hardest bits of both routes and is supposedly a grade harder than each of them. At least two repeats, Chris Lindner in 2009 and Byam Keil in 2023.

Start as for Pretty in Punk, finish as for Punks in the Gym.

One of the hardest routes in 'Victoria'. A sustained full frontal assault on the highest part of the cave.

Start: Start just R of DF.

Link Body Eater into 'Ogre Thumb'

X-Treme cool into 'Desire'

Sit start on slopey rail.

Starts up 'Extended World' V10, drops down into Wimmel Friedhof V5 and then finishes up 'Gastonia' V8

There you have it... the main event. LDWT into DIM. Epic.

Sit-start at a small, slopey undercling with not much for feet.

The ten-year project finally goes down! Embers takes the obvious hanging arete from a stand-start. Left hand on the arete with a crystal thumb catch and right hand on the undercling. A powerful move on poor feet allows you to gain the small crimp. From here another hard move gets you established on easier ground. Continue up the right side of the arete all the way (don't rock around onto the left slab).

Resides on the walk-in track to 'Spurt Wall' - just before the 'tunnel' (beneath the 'Taipan' route 'Invisible Fist').

~8m to the right of Zeus, start on the block with the odd pinch inside. Out left to shallow pocket, big lockoff to sidepulls and finish directly above on flat edge.

Sit start on left-hand side of boulder, moving right through undercling and various pinches, finishing with a desperate and bare top-out. Good idea to suss the finish before getting there.

Sit start on the low rail and move up a series of dimples and slopers to crimps and jugs at the top. Hard for the grade - James didn't want it to be downgraded.

Start as for Pinch Arete, traverse R across Jump to Jug to scoop and undercling, then up employing a good spotter and an accurately placed mat for the final moves

Stand start on crimps, use arete to throw for good edge.

Heads straight up just right of the start of Sultans of Swing. Pending details.

Possibly the traverse completed by Dai Koyamada - starting from the V2 start hold - then traversing right to the finish of 'Mad Max' - unconfirmed.

Sit start on good side pull and small crimp, up through crimps before veering left as the landing falls away.

Start in the far left of the cave and work your way right before finishing up Cold Hands.

Start as for The Quickening, head right through crimps from the jug.

Hard climbing with a powerful and shouldery crux.

Easy climbing leads to a couple of hard moves on slopey holds.

Easy climbing to a dynamic and reachy section through a blank looking roof. Cut loose and prosper.

The line 1m right of Feverish starting at the good pocket. Make tenuous moves up slopey rails to a high top out.

Stand start to Peter Parker.

Sit-start from a poor RH undercling and an incut LH 'pocket' - massive span move out right to the arete of 'Nice Max' - then finish as for this problem. Positive ape-index recommended!

Only one of the moves on this 14 move roof traverse is hard. Unfortunately all the rest require exactly the same muscles, ensuring a month long bicep ache. Fred Nicole didn't do it! Can you?

Start left of the V4 problem on a good gaston and take a left-trending line past the mono to topout. Has seen an impressive flash ascent by James Litz (US). Originally given V13 by Sharik as the mono didn't exist and he did horrible moves crimping the very edge of the same hold.

Dynoing from the crack directly to the top is 'Forced Entry Direct' (V11)

Dai Koyamada's addition to Andersens. Sit start matched on the left facing flake. Move up the wall and jump like mad to the lip.

Start as for 'Passion' then traverse all the way across the crux of Klapusterperle, through the start of 'Bitch Slap' and finish as for 'Winterkirsch'. Has also been done by finishing up 'Bitch Slap' (Sharik Walker) at no change in grade.

Starts on the two 'rails' - at the finish of Cave Man - then climbs out via the famous 'pinch' hold into a gaston crux (the pinch hold of Rave Heart) finishing as for Wimmel Friedhoff.

SDS low in the cave. Crimp and compress your way up and left on the impressive nose, to better holds over the bulge.

Sit start on underclings below the white rail 2m left of the start of STMB. Climb to a slopey pocket and underclings to make a big move gaining the slopey pinch of STMB and finish as for this problem.

Start underclinging the left side of the scoop feature (just left of the start of The Nevin Rule). Move up to LH incut crimp via tricky kneebars and underclings, gaston edges to meet The Nevin Rule at the high pinch. Finish as for The Nevin Rule.

Sit start on small side pull edges then up with difficulty compressing heinous slopers on the awesome prow/arete (slightly left of line in printed guide)

Upper Cave.

Links 'Fog' into 'Dead Heat'.

The beautiful cracked face is deceptively hard. From the stand start climb the face past a very hard deadpoint.

Upper Cave.

Rumoured to be a total classic at the grade - and it looks like it too. Sit-start left of 'I Feel So Holy' and motor up through the pockety featers on the steep wall to the big slopey break. Shuffle rightwards to a high-ish topout.

Sit on arete and traverse up and left into Kant Touch This

Middle Cave. 2016 guidebook grade