Routes as sport in Werribee Gorge

The first quasi-decent sheer orange face you get to after coming down the stairs.

Up from the cave then L to the arete to DRB loweroff . 3 RBs - Rebolted Safer Cliffs Victoria June 2023

Short face just left of 'Cuniculum' past 2 RB to DRB. Originally the climb continued easily R and up from the ledge but this only added height.

The FA used just one side runner in Cuniculum and therefore it was rarely repeated. Now retrobolted by the FA in 2023, it might see a few more ascents.

Fairly respectable by Werribee standards.

Start 2m R of 'Ebony'.

The face the L to the arete and double U bolt loweroff with rap rings. Rebolted and rap rings added May 2023 by Safer Cliffs Victoria

This good little number is polishing it's way up through the grades.

Start 2m R of 'Big Ears'.

Suspiciously "uniform" incuts to gain sidepull flake, nice moves over black bulge. Up right past last bolt to double ring lower offs. Rebolted and rap rings added May 2023 - Safer Cliffs Victoria.

Start 1m L of Vulcan - up the arete and boulder R into and finish up Vulcan.

One of the few Werribee routes that deserves the star it was given in the printed guide.

Start 1m L of 'Barbara Streisand'.

Up to flake then straight up the middle of the face. Add points for style if you finish direct over the middle of the overlap, otherwise finish up Vulcan. Rebolted May 2023 Safer Cliffs Victoria

Step R to descend from Barbara's chains.

Did a singer ever have more appropriate initials?

The bolted line L of the prominent arete. Rebolted May 2023 - Safer Cliffs Victoria.

Given the limited real estate around Melbourne...

Takes the narrow face between Ben Hur and Thanos, coming close to but keeping out of the crack of Ben Hur. 5 RB to DRB anchor on the ledge.

Was freezing on the FA and we couldn't feel anything, so grade is just a guess. Expect things will settle after more ascents.

Scramble up to ledge at base of Ben Hur and follow the 4 FH up face into small corner. Originally it traversed up and right across slab to the Scipio Africanus anchors from the 4th FH, but is better to now continue straight up to the anchor of Mephisto.

The starting ledge has been lowered somewhat by others, so a stick clip for the 1st bolt is recommended.

Start as for Hannibal, then follow the fixed hanger and ring bolts up and around the arete to rap station. The direct start through overlaps and headwall above have both been climbed at about 21.

Start up Scipio Africanus, clip first hanger,then first ring of that route, then continue up right hand side of the arete, via technical arete funkyness to mantle onto ledge and onto double ring lower off.

Roman Warfare 27 “The first ascent required an army of support to fight his way up this feisty number” Don your armour, put some plumes in your helmet and quest up the arete, conserve the small shrub for cover, regroup your troops at the ledge where the fun begins. Stalk your way up the balancy face to ambush your enemy. Beware of booby trap loose rock in the roof let. Check for previous soldiers shin skin, leg hair and blood at the lip, mount your horse and gallop up the arete to victory. R side of the Spintrian arete to the ledge then the L wall of the Golgotha corner over the roof and up the R side of the arete to DBB loweroff

Start as for 'Redex Irlont Sudano' then continue straight up when Redex goes Right. Continue up the very thin face to the crack and loweroff. Started life as a 24, some holds fell off, given 25, lost some more…… and is now very thin. Rebolted May 2023 - Safer Cliffs Victoria

Possibly the best route at Werribee, and a nice easy tick at the grade.

Start 3m R of 'Golgotha'.

Easy slab, over bulge, then traverse R along lip. Up face 3m L of arete to gain finger crack finish. Lower-offs are on the R just below the capstone.

Rebolted June 2023 - Safer Cliffs Victoria

Closed Project.

Start as for Redex.Keep trucking R along the lip of the roof to the arete. Follow this to the cave. Finish as for Holiday Sidewinder.

Needs death block pinned, so if being a closed project isn't incentive enough to keep off...

Walked in with the drill and inspected it 5 years ago, but decided the rock is best suited for glue ins which I wasn't placing at the time...

Direct start to Redex up the slab past a bolt and through the bulge. Tricky move to reach the flake and 3rd bolt, then small crimps and bouldery moves to join Redex at the jug. Keep it together up the rest of Redex.

Start as for Super Redex but take the right hand line up the steep wall and through the bulge, cross Redex and traverse into Nero on the Rampage (past the link bolt). Climb Nero through its crux to the top.

Closed Project

Start as per Holiday Sidewinder, but instead of swinging to the R side of the arete. Keep to the L joining Eye's Wide Shut Closed Project over the lip.

Excellent and seriously underrated in previous guides.

Start beneath the proud arete 3m R of Redex.

The crux bulge down low is easier than appearances suggest, but very technical...and no piking off to the R! After the 2nd RB clip the next on the R face. Above that is an awesome airy sustained arete, stay on the R side at first, but move to the L side at the cave, and at the top step L to Redex's loweroffs.

Start 1m L of 'Veni Vedi Vici'.

Clip first bolt from the block then go down, L and then up the face to a ledge. Up the block face above this to a double u bolt loweroff.

24 if you do the contrived start out right. May be slightly easier if tall or inclined to wander. Line of RBs 2m right of VVV. Clip first RB from block then return to ground to start. Nice boulder problem then grey streak direct (thin between 3rd and 4th bolts). From 4th RB diagonally right to finish as for TFTP to new double UB lower off.

Start from cave 3m R of 'Veni Vedi Vici'.

Up face then R to ledge. Up the arete. Stick clip first bolt and clip bolt of climb left if you want this to feel like a sport routes, otherwise bring gear.

Starts 2m L of 'Fuel the Fire'. Sharp at least 26, probably 27.

4 RBs - Rebolted June 2023 - Safer Cliffs Victoria

Up the wall 5m R of 'Crispin's Crispian'. Bolts replaced December 2021.