Routes in North for selected grade

As you walk down the gorges along the tourist track past a long and narrow pool, you will walk on some polish flat and wide rock, about 20 meters upstream before you turn left on the “spider walk”. On the left side of the gorge (looking downstream), a crack line goes straight up, then under a small roof or cave, and out of the cave. Very fragile rock! Walk out requires scrambling on grade 10.

FA?: Remi Vignals, Kelly Chapman, August 2009

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/karijini-hancock-gorge-kalamina-gorge/

Start as for "Camp X". Climb into the ledge left of the first bolt of "Camp X" and careful step over to start of Wombat Amnesia. Then climb easily up corner crack system. Going direct at the bolt is also possible at Grade 16. Follow crack through open roof. Descent via 30m abseil from tree (60m rope sufficient but tie knots) or gully to left. Probably a fair bit easier than 15 and really really good.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/kalbarri-long-natural-line/

Takes main diagonal crack about 80m North of the lookout.

Start as for BFM but head straight onto the ledge at the base of the face on the right. Go up the face trending left to reach a small juggy bulge. Go through the steepest part of the bulge and belay above

Interesting climb veering to R near top.

The corner at the right hand end, big gear.

The short lay back right trending corner finger crack thats floating above the old dunny area. Accessing this climb is half the fun. Treat it as a boulder problem

Coprolalia 20m 14* (Trad) A well protected route up the z-shaped crack/corner offering a variety of angles. Finish just below the top roof. Keep some big gear (1 or 2 BD C4 #4-5) for the anchor. FA: Remi Vignals, Shevaun Cooley – 3/10/2014

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/kalbarri-5-new-routes/

Sit start and up the east right face of the scoop

Sit start on the right and up.

Sit start.

Sit start.

Well featured wall to warm up on. About 6 problems V0-V3 across the face.

Sit start with low underclings. Up through jugs

Terrifying.

Up the tall slab right of Bec's Slab.

Up the slab.

Well featured face - good to warm up on.

Start on obvious jug on the left. Move right to topout.

Stand start on rail. One move out of the roof and topout easily

Well featured low wall with warm up options. Sit starts etc.

Sit start with undercling. Up and left through the slab with sidepulls.

Start 3 meters right of white spear, directly below the smaller tree climb almost to the tree and past to topout. Good pro higher up may still be loose blocks be light on hands an feet

Lone Gum, 18m, grade 15, Trad. Approx 50m L of Stellar Wall, head up the shallow corner/crack on clean orange rock; traverse slightly left to follow the easiest line to the beautiful white tree. FA R Wall / K Stübner 13th Oct 2019

https://robjwall.wordpress.com/2019/10/15/kalbarri-new-routes-in-stellar-wall-area/

Obvious right-side crack of Wrong Wall. Socially distance yourself from this chossy route. Would give negative stars if possible.

Easy Crack up the middle of the wall. Finish at the big break. Could be (or has been?) continued (more of a solo or trad than dws) to the top.

Sds horizontal rail. Trend left out of cave using mega jugs and scoops.

Sds, up obvious feature

The obvious large crack left of the central cave.

Follow the right trending sickle crack of varying sizes. Easy climbing broken up by technical layback crux.

Stand

Stand

Sit start with slots and up the right side of the face.

An awesome days adventure which involves hiking, swimming (or tubing), and fun rock climbing with beautiful views,good moves and exposure. A great trad mission with route finding and many escape points if time is running out. Its useful to have experience navigating choss or loose blocks.

Worth combining this climb with 'Secret Squirrel' (see topo)

Part 1: Hike from Natures window car park to approximately half way round The Loop track from either direction. Looking out eastwards from the bank is a hidden valley (we nicknamed 'Whisper Valley') which drains out to an island of trees.

Part 2: Cross here (27°32'16.4"S 114°27'56.3"E / -27.537899, 114.465644) with gear and get wet, if you are really tall you might make it without swimming otherwise I advise bringing a blow up tube.

Part 3: To find the climb walk upstream (of Whisper Valley) approximately 100m to the first bend. You will see a very tall corner off to your right which is your summit, and the the ridge (Black Swan Ridge) on your right running back down to the rivers edge.

Pitch 1: 25m 'Work the Choss' the start of the climb is indicated with a large fallen square slab with a large bush above it. climb up left of this, through a loose edge at approx 10m going just left of the 2nd set of shrubs then follow the rising ledge off right to the bottom of the next pitch. (huge ledge)

Pitch 2: 15m 'I Was Dry When I Cried' starts with an obvious awkward stepped corner and finishes with a loose top out. nevertheless nice climbing.

Pitch 3: 10m 'Wind Walker' An easy but very exposed, and scenic step out right around the overhang to straightforward slab finish of the pitch.

Pitch 4: 10m 'The Finishing Touch' An optional icing on the cake. A thin crack line up the left hand face of the final wall about 2m Left of the arete of the nose.

Descent: Via Black Swan Ridge back to Whisper Valley's mouth.