Routes in Western Australia for selected grade

Follow carrots to large block at top, and do interesting moves to reach anchors. To climb at grade 18, stick left of carrots and avoid large jugs to the right.

Start about 3m right of Split Personalties. Climb past 6BR to DBB with much broughaha.

Start from the platform and climb up the major crag of the wall. The crux is at the roof with good gear and great holds. Build the anchor over the big boulder with enough rope or some cams, nuts or hexes under the two boulders on top with you sitting snug between them.

4m L of Turbodiesel Excavator and 2m R of Shut 'em Down. Start is the crux, then follow the inverted staircase past 4 ringbolts to lower-offs.

One of the best climbs for its grade in Australia! Climb the center hand/off-width crack that divides The Old Man pillar. Take big cams for top section.(can be done without big cams there are horizontal cracks that take smaller gear but bigger cams might make finding placements easier)

The sport route with 5 fixed hangers. Up overhanging start, layback over bulge to clip third bolt (crux). Directly up face on small holds, staying out of Gabbro Grove, past two more bolts to top. Two ring bolts at the anchor.

A great line to anchor at right end of cave. Just before the cave there are two options with separate bolts, the R option is gr.18, the L option is gr.20. In theory this climb continues up and above the cave but few do this runout finish.

There is a small thread before first bolt. Then follow reachy moves to ledge, step left and climb to anchors.

Shares first 2 bolts of Sunset Cruise, then tends left up obvious ramp. 7BR & DBB

A nice flow of moves to the top.

Regarded as one of the best crack pitches in WA, good value at the grade.

Pitch 1 (18) 33m: Up short crack to horizontal break. Enter finger crack and enjoy the climb to the belay ledge.

Pitch 2 (16) 23m: Up short corner to easy ramp to block and belay on right below the summit dome.

Pitch 3 (15) 40m: Committing slab climbing protected by small wires up to summit

Nice climb up the corner with nice finishing jugs. DBB belay at top means you can rap back down!

Perhaps the only reason to come here. Climb the obvious finger crack all the way to the DBB (hangers required). Takes bomber gear all the way.

Terrible bolt placement makes for horrendous rope drag.

P1 (5 bolts) 17m Move initially left to reach the grey wall before mantling the small ledge then up the slabby ground to reach the boulders and the belay station. P2 (2 bolts) 12m Up to the drummy flakes then use the small holds to gain the sloping ground and the belay/rappel anchors.

A good adventure climb with a few solid threads and three fixed hangers (FH).

The first FH is at the exit from the last cave, 2nd FH is 2m above it, 3rd FH is on a traverse left towards the anchors of Shaved Cat, about halfway along and quite low and may be obscured by vegetation. Take double-length slings for the threads.

The original rope slings were removed due to visual impact consideration (DBCA) and wear.

Follow the corner 2m right of NOD up and through the roof to DBB

Head up the crack with rings up the left hand boulder. Leave the crack and come out onto the face of the left hand boulder, follow rings up to double anchor at the very top. Be prepared to haul against some serious rope drag to get the rope back if lowering down.

An absolute classic slab climb. The runouts between bolts are just enough to make you quiver.

After the 3rd bolt, head right towards the darker rock and crack.

Harder than "Skin Tight".

Follow left trending weaknesses ad cracks to obvious large horizontal crack and construct belay. Climb up vertical cracks to cave and skirt out rightwards.

Stand start with the jug, straight up. For extra style use only the big jug to topout directly.

Option to traverse right on good holds.

The face right of Lost Arrow with a horizontal break at half height. Start on Slanting Crack (you might want to place gear on the start) and then move left onto the face with two fixed hangers and one carrot after.

Sit start on the right perched on the raised rock. Traverse left on the jugs...you might as well go all the way left then top out.

There is either a 2 carrot bolt anchor just over the lip, or a large tree set back around 8m from the last bolt for lowering

Small to mid-size cams and nuts at the start and three bolts (bring plates) for the slab at the top.

Climb Kid Rock all the way to the anchor, and then just keep traversing left to the anchors of Stolen Glory, clipping one of the bolts of the anchors of Bonking Penguins along the way. Fun traverse at the top may increase the grade of Kid Rock a bit, but beware of how dirty and lose the top is — make sure the belayer has a helmet.

First route at the crag. Belay comprises 2 BR and natural gear. Bolts need hangers. Anchor is 1 x Glued Hex head (with rusted chain) and natural gear.

Sit start with left hand jug and right hand on the arete. Tricky move to establish.

Route stays about a meter right of the bolts the whole way up. A medium sized cam helps protect a run out at the top. Tree belay. Beware the very loose muddy section at the top out.

Really enjoyable face climb. Start under and right of roof (look for rusty bolt in roof). First bolt placement is too high and awkward for a safe clip. Use a small/medium cam to get there. Also a little run out on top.

Between Baylec Direct and Albatross, there is a chimney area with two ugly looking corner cracks. Climb the right crack up to some nice jams, and continue to where it gets narrow and crosses left to first belay anchors of Baylec Direct. Gobbles up medium cams.

Nice slab climbing up the obvious water runnel. Sit start on the arete with the low left hand jug. Up trending right-ish avoiding the jugs of 'Rock Lobster' on the left.

A great way to reach the summit from The Terrace.

1. 35m (18): 5 bolts to DBB on Wreckage Ledge. Rather awkward first move which is one of those things that you will either do first time no worries. Or you will huff and puff and scratch at the rock wondering what goes. Sensibly bolted and a nice pitch.

2. 30m (15): 3 bolts and large cams to belay on small ledge. Easy for 15.

3. 30m (9): Unprotected scramble to top.

Nice climbing. New bolt added at start so natural gear no longer needed.

Start 5m right of Free Burma. Very well protected. 11 bolts (hangers needed). Lower off 2m right of Free Burma lower-offs.

Manufactured holds with good gear leads to slab climbing on two bolts. Anchor bolts have been chopped.

Line of ring bolts 4 m left of Soleless. Good fun and great warmup for harder routes. Start can be pumpy (crux). 5RB and 2RB lower off.

The crag classic! Climb corner crack to sustained laybacking and jamming. Well protected

Alternate finish for Delving Devoids. Continue straight up wall from belay with marginal protection.

Titanium ring bolts on left side of cave.

Situated just to the right of the cave-like gully that separates the Central Gully from the Northern Buttress. There are some huge overlaps and cracks here, but unfortunately the overall angle is very low. This climb takes the left hand overlap where the rock is steepest. Start in the gully immediately below the waterfall (2nd abseil pitch for rappel descent route).

1. 30m (15) Climb the diagonal crack and slabs to belay on a small ledge beside and left of the huge overhang.

2. 30m (18) Move up and traverse towards the right under the next overhang in a superb position. Move around corner to gain crack and slabs which leads to a belay ledge beneath a shallow corner.

3. 50m (15) Climb the corner and slabs which eventually leads to the summit terraces.

Shares bolt with SS.

Water streak 10m right of Trick or Treat. Need plates for 8 bolts, belays are U-bolts. Clips can be exciting

1. 30m (18): Slab past 7 carrot bolts to DBB.

2. 30m (18): Slab past 8 carrot bolts to DBB.

3. 25m (14): Up past 5 bolts to DBB.

Per the guidebook, if leading the route can either be topped out (essentially becomes a solo) or a single bolt rappel can be performed. Do so at your own risk.

Start 2m right of Bodgy Dolts. Up overhanging groove to stand on large ledge to the right. Up next bulge and climb wall until it steepens, then traverse right into a shallow groove and crack, the mid point of Up for Grabs, to finish.

Start from ground and up arete 5m right and below Karma.

Well protected and good fun. Starts 10m right of Jugular where it is easy to step on the wall. The climb trends left past 7 FHs and some natural gear. Same finish as Jugular once overlap is reached. Traverse 15m right to lower-offs.

Not named after the 18th century Baron Hake. Named after the spikey bushes at the base. Sustained and satisfying, leading to atonement at the top.

Shares a DBB/lower off up high, with Schizophrenic, Narrogin Line, Project Mac, Hakea Penance, and Clemency. 10-12m of climbing then 10m plus of easy slabbing to the anchor.

1. 30m (18) Start as for Dinosaur. Head up the right trending large flake (1.5-3" cams) to a fixed hanger, traverse right to the ledge beneath cave (small gear in flake), then up and left following three fixed hangers to the DBB (4 fixed hangers and gear).

2. 30m (16) Head straight up runnel following bolts up and right to big ledge, then walk left up the ramp bush bashing to a fixed hanger and the DBB (4 fixed hangers).

3. 30m (17) Follow the fixed hangers up and left to a DBB (4 fixed hangers).

4. 32m (18) Head straight up runnel following the fixed hangers to DBB (6 fixed hangers).

Either rappel down or top out. If topping out there is small gear and an easy climb to the top. If rappelling be careful as the last pitch is slightly longer than 30m.

Cruisy and juggy. Good warm up. Sit start is stiff V1

Stand start and up the rising twin aretes. A great feature and a good one for the mountaineers.

Start at the right side of the smooth grey slab 3 m right of Sundowner. Climb the fault past a bolt in a small triangular niche to the sentry box. Exit past the piton in the headwall right of a groove (crux). Scramble to a BR belay.

The crack to the left of Toddler's Delight. Follow the crack up and the left near the top towards the DBB. Lots of pro.

A crack for desperate housewives involving a lay back and a knee bar amongst other delights. 4BR to DBB. J. Truscott, M. Rosser 30 Oct 05

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/three-new-quality-routes-at-boyas-west-bay-back-wall/

4m right of Liquorish Slab. Boulder up then step slightly right at the first bolt. Up past 4 more bolts right of a very shallow water runnel. DBB/lower off above right edge of mossy ledge.

The crack/flake line at left edge of Cinema Wall.

Sit start. Up vertical crack and then top out trending right.

Climb the crack without using the hidden flake or face holds for a harder variant.

Start 2 meters to the left of Brepus and straight up the face.

From 2RBB on left edge of ledge, abseil slightly rightwards, heading into the obvious wide crack.

(1) 33m 18: Climb crack up to the left leading bongo flake. Straight up face from here past a FH to ledge and 2RBB.

(2) 27m 15: Head left up slabs as for Long Time Coming.

Up through the stripes onto slab finish. Nice splits move. Two bolts to 1BB.

A popular route as it is relatively sustained and a little run out. A steep bouldery start about 3m right of Thieves Like The Sun.

Left

Trending left is V0, trending right V1.

Found downhill of summit on a boulder is a climb up a twin crack system

(i) 40m - 18: Start 80m left of Illusion of Grandeur at base of curving corner flake. Climb up to bolt and traverse right to big ledge. Continue pass three more bolts and belay on bolt to the left of the 4th cave.

(ii) 45 - 17: Straight up pass two good pieces for 40m and up to single bolt belay.

(ii) 60m - 13: Straight up, passing a bolt and belay off single bolt at top.

Jug then straight up.

Straight up the steepening slab to the right of Wombat Roof, without using either arete. Needs 1 bolt plate.

Start on low-angled slab below the gully of Ian's Lost Chance. Need 9 bolt plates and 10 draws.

1. 40m (15): Start 10m left of Free Burma and same as start for Lambs to the Slaughter. Up easy slab and cross Ian's Lost Chance on a slabby bridge. Continue up slab, trending left to DBB at rings below a steeper wall. 7 bolts

2. 40m (18): L and up the vertical wall. Continue up easy ground to DBB at rings.

Descend as Dream Weaver.

Stand start.