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Routes as trad in Wilson's Promontory

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Showing all 41 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Mt Bishop Elephant Rock
9 Plankton

The descent route. Short thin crack that you see on approach.

FA: J Grandage, R Pauligk & R Taylor, 1966

Trad 6m
6 Ambergris

FA: J Grandage, R Pauligk & R Taylor, 1966

Trad 18m
12 Ambergris Variant Finish

FA: R Pauligk, J Grandage & R Taylor, 1966

Trad 6m
14 Dicky Bark Dwyll

FA: K Mollison & B Every, 1975

Trad 30m
14 Batten The Hatches

Take giant rock ramp up to the ledge (unprotected). Can stay independent of DBD by using the R most runnel before gaining the horizontal and traverse.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1978

Trad 35m
8 Spermwhale Jaw

Follow the jaw line L of Cachalot up.

FA: R Taylor, J Grandage, R & R Pauligk, 1966

Trad 30m
21 Cachalot

Starts at the rusty carrot to follow an excellent flake all the way up. Can be accessed by rap or from the unprotected start of SJ.

FA: P Treby & G Fitzgerald, 1969

FFA: Glenn Tempest, 1977

Mixed trad 30m, 1
14 One Out

FA: K Egerton & I Sedgman, 1976

Trad 10m
Mt Bishop Mt Bishop Slabs
19 Within Reach

FA: Glenn Tempest, R Smith & E Jones, 1983

Mixed trad 50m, 1
19 X Adrift

No protection!

FA: K Lindorff, Glenn Tempest, E Jones & G Jones, 1983

Trad 50m
21 High And Dry

FA: Glenn Tempest, G Butcher & G Hoxley, 1983

Mixed trad 45m, 1
6 Superslab

FA: I Sedgman & S Abbott, 1978

Trad 200m, 4
Turtle Rock Backpackers Boulders
24 Ranger Danger

Trad version of "Stranger Danger". After first overhung vertical crack, follow small line up diagonally right on small gear. Micro cams and small wires are particularly useful!

FA: Grant

Set: Grant & Luke Baxter

Trad 7m
Turtle Rock
Turtle Rock Girdle Traverse

Traverse of the wall. However, the crack is so big you can squeeze into it and into the 'cave' inside.

Trad
Mt Oberon North Oberon
11 The Goo

Right hand side of the rock, follow chossy chimney on the back and top out steeply on the headwall. Descend onto exposed slab and walk off.

FFA: Kat Tree Gypsy

FA: Kat Tree Gypsy, 21 May 2015

Trad 30m
17 Worm

"A worm in your apple isn't great, but it's better than only half a worm" The obvious corner seen from the drive up to Oberon carpark. Reasonable quality rock and good gear up a sustained corner crack.

FFA: Ruru Kraal

FA: Ruru Kraal, 21 May 2015

Trad 20m
Mt Oberon Summit Area Left Side
17 Long Arm Bar And Twisting Wristlock

FA: Rob Dunning, 1983

Trad 18m
13 Long Arm Bar And Twisting Wristlock Variant Start

FA: Sue Mills, 1983

Trad 18m
Mt Oberon Summit Area Right Side
5 Mrs Mossy and Mr Chossy

As the name suggests, written up to ensure others aren't tempted. The main weakness of the giant pillar that divides Left Side and Right Side. Step across to 2m of enjoyable climbing at the top.

FA: Poppy, Shaggy Horse, Jen & Andrew, 8 May 2021

Trad 28m
22 Not Just A Pretty Face

Difficult and awkward climbing at start. Easy face above. One of the better routes here!

FA: Grant, 22 Feb 2015

Trad 18m
20 Just You and Me

Alternative start to 'Not Just A Pretty Face'

FA: Grant, 22 Feb 2015

Trad 22m
Below The Line

Second pitch can be linked into the first for a larger pitch. You can also lower off at the first belay. You will also need to clean it!

Set: Grant, 12 Sep 2015

TradProject 2
5 Access Line

FA: Grant, 22 Feb 2015

Trad 6m
Mt Oberon Communication Dome
13 Big Kiss

THIS AREA OF MOUNT OBERON HAS PREVIOUSLY BEEN RECORDED AS PANORAMA WALL (VCC EASTERN VICTORIA GUIDEBOOK)

The line of BK can clearly be seen as the left hand skyline of the Summit of Mount Oberon from the campground at Tidal River. The second pitch follows the rib that is in actual fact the top of the huge flake obvious from sea level.

  1. 30m. Start below the right hand of two cracks in the wall behind the huge boulder at the bottom of the crag. Climb this crack over the easing angle and then continue straight up until a short traverse left leads to a block and belay at the bottom of a lightly vegetated fist wide crack and broken rib.

  2. 10m. Climb the crack above stepping onto the rib after a few meters. Continue cautiously over less perfect rock up the cracked rib to the top. Good belay in crack and small tree. Descend by continuing to summit track.

FA: Karl Bromelow, Mandy Robertson & Kai Seth Robertson, 9 Jun 2014

Trad 40m, 2
5 Slippery Slide

Starts as for "Big Kiss". Can be broken into 2 pitches to reduce rope drag (either at first crack after traverse or at the top crack at the lower rib). This original start eliminates the closing offwidth crack start.

Start below the right of the two cracks in the wall in front of the huge boulder at the bottom of the crag as for "Big Kiss". Climb this crack over the easing angle and then traverse right over slab to join left facing crack (SS DS). Starts tending left up to horizontal break, and follows the water stain across small holds (slippery after rain).

The route then joins the start of right tending crack just above the vegetation in the rib over easing ground for 10m to the lower of 2 old rusted Parks Victoria fence/sign poles. Belay at end of the crack.

Walk off toward summit and join track.

FA: Luke Baxter, Grant & Tayla Chrystie, Apr 2022

Trad 60m
8 Slippery Slide Direct Start

Starts down lower, 10m right of "Big Kiss". Can be broken into 2 pitches to reduce rope drag (either at first crack after traverse or at the top crack at the lower rib).

Starts at base of flake, up steep wall for 5m and onto easing angle continuing to follow crack. SS then follows the water stain across small holds (slippery after rain) staying left of the steep wall to right. Up this stain to join the right facing crack above the vegetation.

Above the vegetation in the rib over easing ground for 10m to the lower of 2 old rusted Parks Victoria fence/sign poles. Belay at end of the crack.

Walk off toward summit and join track.

FA: Luke Baxter, Grant & Tayla Chrystie, Apr 2022

Trad 50m
Mt Oberon
8 Delilah

FA: I Sedgman, K Egerton, C Housten & C Houston, 1976

Trad 55m, 2
6 Deceit

FA: I Sedgman & M Marsh, 1974

Trad 50m
11 Dancing

FA: S Abbot & I Sedgman, 1978

Trad 35m
12 Tight Black Pants

FA: K Strojek & G Hoxley, 1981

Trad 30m
18 Skin Friction

FA: K Strojek & G Hoxley, 1984

Mixed trad 30m, 2
20 Skin Friction Variant

FA: K Strojek & H Hoxley, 1984

Mixed trad 30m, 2
13 Quick Frisk

FA: K Strojek & H Hoxley, 1984

Trad 52m, 2
5 Rags To Riches

FA: I Sedgman, C Houston & K Egerton, 1976

Trad 35m
8 Octogenarian Grumps

FA: I Sedgman, K Egerton & C Houston, 1976

Trad 30m
Mt Oberon Diosa Sector Summit Rocks
Miami Heat

Set: Grant, 13 Sep 2015

TradProject
Little Oberon 'The Pocket' Alcove
11 X One For Insomnia

Poorly protected ramp. Probably okay in dry conditions but best to avoid when wet.

FA: Grant & L Baxx, 14 Nov 2016

Trad 35m
Little Oberon Quarter Dome
Lost World

Set: Grant

TradProject 6
Lost World Direct

Set: Grant, 23 Mar 2015

TradProject 4
Super Dome

Set: Grant, 3 Jun 2015

TradProject 7
Lighthouse Area
12 Land's End
Trad 18m

Showing all 41 routes.

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