Routes as trad in Wilson's Promontory

Face right of squeaky corner.

'Middle thin crack with hard crux at half-height."

Trad version of "Stranger Danger". After first overhung vertical crack, follow small line up diagonally right on small gear. Micro cams and small wires are particularly useful!

'Middle thin crack on main wall starting as for Hammerhead.'

'Right line on smooth face on left side of cliff. Short corner, then crack. Right across face to another crack'

Up pillar to roof of detached boulder. Out roof to surmount headwall on thin flake.

'Right crack with technical finish up incipient seams.'

'Directly up series of leaning, wide cracks'

Difficult and awkward climbing at start. Easy face above. One of the better routes here!

Superb balancy face-climbing up the brown streak midway between Tungsten Tips and Tongue Tied (the left-leaning seams at the right end of this best, main section of the cliff). Step off large boulder opposite pinnacle, to BR and bomber #3 Rock. Up (crux) to edge and FH, slightly rightish to finish as for Tongue Tide's upper cracks.'

'Sustained hand-jamming right of Mother-In-Law's Tongue, starting as for Saliva. Tricky final move through summit block.'

Starting right of Grasping at Straws, head up steep slab past BR. Up to second BR (and #3 Camalot) and up to overlap. Continue up slab to cross streak on the right near top.

A magnificent pitch. Start as for Spermwhale Jaw. Climb Sperwhale Jaw for 12m, move right to a BR (over 40 years old, if still there), then on up the wild flake line for another 12m to a ledge and on to the top.

First roped climb at Fang Cove. Proud corner on left side of the cliff. Scramble to stance. Follow line to roof. FA finished right under big roof, then traversed left in great position to top of blocks.

'From oozing, black mank 2m left of Kate's Climb weave up wall left of that route to vegetated exit.'

'Wall right of I'm A Believer. 2 BRs.'

'Up Saliva's crack and flake/pillar, then step left to hanging crack. Step back right to finish as for Saliva.'

'Thin crack at far left end of cliff immediately right of wide, black crack, joining this at the top'

Alternative start to 'Not Just A Pretty Face'

The deep crack and arete on the west side of the pinnacle, then the flake-crack up high.

'Delightful finger-cracks when dry, but often seeping. The direct black crack system just right of a recessed section of cliff (and 3m right of Foxy Lady), to belay under the large block on top. Finish up rightwards, or better, across left.'

Climb the left hand streak on the slab past BR, into shallow corner (#4 RP). Through this and into water streak. Step left to the ledge, then up steep wall left of groove to boulders.

'Prominent, white flake/pillar (reached by way of short crack), then step round right. Cracks, wall.'

Nondescript. The right-leaning finger-crack and easy climb above.

Climbs the streak to the right of Within Reach. No protection!

Great climbing on pronounced gold streak. Start below water streak that reaches the ground on the left side of the crag.

1. 20m Up to tree above, onto the wall and over overlap. Up to the BR then (crux) up to the ledge (BB).

2. 50m The golden streak to the top

'Right-leaning crack at entrance and on left wall'

'Arete to diagonal 2m right of Tungsten Tips.'

'Rather harsh. Line of least resistance up series of leaning, wide cracks.'

'"Leave well alone" - even worse than it looks! (Previously known as The Ultimate Piece of Pox.) The left-most line on the main section of the cliff (about 20m left of Forked Tongue, with a dank chimney in between). A seeping, flared black groove to gritty cracks through headwall to finish.'

'Deep corner with double cracks which can be seen from far end of Tongue Point track down left on opposite side of causeway. Right corner-crack, then step left below overhanging block (wide crack goes straight up here). Layback left-leading crack (crux)'

Quite good. About 40m right around the hillside from I'd Rather Be Eating and about 15m uphill from the track is a narrow slab leaning on another boulder. Climb the narrow slab, finishing on amazing jugs.

Large crack/corner right of Peters Out To Nothing

1. 40m Climb slab using back against roof or layback the edge

2. 40m Step right over overlap (crux) and up the flake to surmount the next bulge. Up the slab to much easier ground above. Belay on the knob

3. 45m Straight up o the top. Belay on trees.

"A worm in your apple isn't great, but it's better than only half a worm" The obvious corner seen from the drive up to Oberon carpark. Reasonable quality rock and good gear up a sustained corner crack.

'From top of Neptunes Thumb, abseil to hanging belay on ocean side. The crack.'

'Wall, flake directly below abseil point. Watch for loose rock.'

Climb the corner just right of Billy Lids to horizontal crack. Move right around the corner to join The Doctor.

Detached flake up left from Ankle Biters, finishing up face

Climb straight up the face to join the crack direct.

'Prominent twin cracks on landward side to top of Neptunes Thumb'

'The vertical crack through brown rock 2m right of Hydroepiphobia's corner. Climb the crack to a ledge, then the wider crack just right to the top (finishes directly opposite the upper corner of The Corridor of Uncertainty on the other wall).'

Good rock. Start at left of scrub lined terrace

1. Up thin slab and up to flake (no protection). Belay off gear on flake.

2. Move right off flake and up easy wall to the top.

Start from the top of huge block to the left of left-facing corner on the back wall

1. 40m up slab to left of water streak and right of small tree growing out of crack

2. 30m Awesome climbing on edges through the orange face to belay from tree

3. 20m up continuation of the golden streak to the top

Start 6m left Peters Out To Nothing under tree. Go up and then traverse rightwards into line

'A fine adventure. The obvious line across the southern face. Abseil over the block down black streak to belay at the little pedestal in the lower corner. up the corner, then follow traverse-line left across horizontal flakes (ignoring the rising left-leading cracks) to an awkward step across to the ramp. Follow the ramp, easier, up left to finish up a little corner to blocks on top.'

Good pro on first pitch, none after that. Start 3m left of the large corner near the centre of the cliff.

1. 48m Awkward start across wall gains shallow corner on the left. Up this and step right before it peters out, traverse to shallow crack in face. Up this and belay below black water streak above.

2. 48m Continue left along curving crack/ramp past three bushes for 25m. Climb face just right of 3rd pitch of Have a Nice Day. For 3m to gain a rightward-leading dyke. Follow this to belay above (a thread and #2 camalot)

Take giant rock ramp up to the ledge (unprotected). Can stay independent of DBD by using the R most runnel before gaining the horizontal and traverse.

'"The fear of epics involving water". Go to the base of the zawn, as for Take Five, then scramble along the ledge into the zawn's dank base to a little right-facing corner deep within. Climb the corner/crack through a rooflet, continuing up crack to ledges

The east side of the pinnacle. Scramble down to a crackline to start. Up crack to ledges and take flakes up the top boulder.

'Shallow corner-crack a few metres right of Causeway Corner to right leading flake'

'Start by walking south and downhill from the highest outcrop to reach the base of a 45m high cliff. Moving south, a long overhang undercutting a slab is passed, then two corner-lines. Move around the buttress right of these below where a right-angled corner starts 6m up.'

1. 21m (crux) Move up and climb the corner. Bash back to a wall split by a fine crack

2. 30m Ignore the crack and move rightwards over some loose blocks to a slab which leads to a short finishing corner

The line of BK can clearly be seen as the left hand skyline of the Summit of Mount Oberon from the campground at Tidal River. The second pitch follows the rib that is in actual fact the top of the huge flake obvious from sea level.

1. 30m. Start below the right hand of two cracks in the wall behind the huge boulder at the bottom of the crag. Climb this crack over the easing angle and then continue straight up until a short traverse left leads to a block and belay at the bottom of a lightly vegetated fist wide crack and broken rib.

2. 10m. Climb the crack above stepping onto the rib after a few meters. Continue cautiously over less perfect rock up the cracked rib to the top. Good belay in crack and small tree. Descend by continuing to summit track.

'Climb starts at the floor of the chimney on the edge closest to the sea. Finish on the left side of chimney going out around boulder. Well protected'

'Of note mainly because it was once the southern-most route on the mainland of Australia. To start, continue along above the shoreline, until immediately below the lighthouse, where some slabs and ramps lead down to the sea. This climb is a short clean corner and crack facing northwest from one of these ramps. Climb the line'

Start as for Nautical Jigsaw. Up flake-crack to step right, then up wall to the top.

Start as for Nautical Jigsaw, up flake-crack, step right and up wall to the top

'Scramble or abseil to platform and corner at water-level. Starting beneath, and at the right-hand of the sloping ledge.'

1. 10m Traverse into zawn at sea level to hanging belay

2. 15m Up twin jam-cracks to top of small block to take a big direct crack. Scramble off left.

'On the right side of a buttress forming the left-hand end of the large sloping midway shelf. Takes the twin off-width vertical cracks starting from a smaller shelf, to a steeper finish.'

'Line with horizontal breaks 2m right of easy arete. In the Nude is 5m left of Chocolate Reaction and directly below right end of Irish Wake Wall'

Large flake-crack that starts at the steep centre area of the crag. No Gear. Up flake-crack to step off left onto the slab, then up following pockets to the top

Right hand side of the rock, follow chossy chimney on the back and top out steeply on the headwall. Descend onto exposed slab and walk off.

Poorly protected ramp. Probably okay in dry conditions but best to avoid when wet.

'Start directly below the highest rock peak, where there are two faces, one above the other. Climb vegetated line in the middle of the lower face to a ledge. Layback up for a few moves, then move up to a crack that is jammed to the top'

"Leave the path and move across to a point to the right hand corner of the left hand buttress. Climb the obvious weakness direct, 50ft. The rock is loose and probably piton protection is advisable on subsequent ascents."

'The vertical crackline 2m right of Take Two, starting from the same ledge.'

'From the left-hand (outer) end of the large shelf take a vertical crack to a distinct, left-leaning flake/ledge. Left across this to finish at the top of Take One.'

'Right-leaning, wide crack right of Tongue Tide. Variant by way of thin crack on white arete is better (grade 14).'

No protection on upper pitches, around grade 5-8

1. 45m Take the ramp and flaring crack to belay at trees above

2. 45m Traverse right and straight up easy dyke. Across ledge and up to belay bellow the second steepening above

3. 45m Straight up through bulge and take dyke up to where it intersects a left-leaning dyke. Follow this then straight up pockets in the wall to a stance (BB)

4. 45m Straight up

The descent route. Short thin crack that you see on approach. 'Start on the back of Whale Rock, before the scramble down and round and round to the main face, below the obvious crack leading to the gum tree. Climb the crack!'

Starts down lower, 10m right of "Big Kiss". Can be broken into 2 pitches to reduce rope drag (either at first crack after traverse or at the top crack at the lower rib).

Starts at base of flake, up steep wall for 5m and onto easing angle continuing to follow crack. SS then follows the water stain across small holds (slippery after rain) staying left of the steep wall to right. Up this stain to join the right facing crack above the vegetation.

Above the vegetation in the rib over easing ground for 10m to the lower of 2 old rusted Parks Victoria fence/sign poles. Belay at end of the crack.

Walk off toward summit and join track.

Follow the jaw line L of Cachalot up.

"Push through the low scrub along the face of the boulder slab until the right buttress is reached. The start of the climb is up a smooth slab to a point just left of a tree which is used for the first belay (25ft). From the tree continue the climb up the obvious weakness which moves to the left into the cave below the overhang. Belay in cave (40-50ft). Finish the climb along the ridge of the large boulder on the right (40ft)."

follows slab all the way up to the summit. Starts at foot of slender slab at the side of Mount Bishop, there is a ledge next to some trees which is where the climb starts.

1. 50m Up the slab through path of least resistance

2. 50m Follow the crack, then up slab to bushy ledge with rocks

3. 50m Slab and leftward corner, then veer up right to rightward corner and good belay

4. 50m Back to bulge then across to top

'This is the easy chimney between Spermwhale Jaw and Plankton. Climb the chimney and finish up the flake directly above'

Starts as for "Big Kiss". Can be broken into 2 pitches to reduce rope drag (either at first crack after traverse or at the top crack at the lower rib). This original start eliminates the closing offwidth crack start.

Start below the right of the two cracks in the wall in front of the huge boulder at the bottom of the crag as for "Big Kiss". Climb this crack over the easing angle and then traverse right over slab to join left facing crack (SS DS). Starts tending left up to horizontal break, and follows the water stain across small holds (slippery after rain).

The route then joins the start of right tending crack just above the vegetation in the rib over easing ground for 10m to the lower of 2 old rusted Parks Victoria fence/sign poles. Belay at end of the crack.

Walk off toward summit and join track.

As the name suggests, written up to ensure others aren't tempted. The main weakness of the giant pillar that divides Left Side and Right Side. Step across to 2m of enjoyable climbing at the top.

Good holds up the front of the tor right of Smoke Detector.

'The easy, left-leading ramp across this little face, starting from about midway on the sloping ledge.'