Ascents in Wilderness Areas

Consistently good climbing on every pitch.

P1 - Ugly start into great corner and then fun chimney and nice steep corner above.

P2 - Nice wide corner into pleasant finger crack to a hideous scrubby mantle thrash.

P3 - Thin technical corner

P4 - Scary chossy start into chimney finish.

P5 - To the top.

Free ascent with Zac, and later with Rohan

First two pitches freed . . .

don't expect solid bolt belay's! A superb 'once in a lifetime' experience.

Very loose and sandy rock. The guidebook says that belays are "well equipped with BBs or fixed gear" - we found a few wobbly and sometimes completely loose bolts at only 3 of the 7 belays. And so much for 7 pitches - you are at the top of the main wall after 7 pitches but there was still another pitch of about grade 14, and another roped scramble to get to the top. Glad I did it, but wouldn't want to do it again! The rap into the narrow slot canyon on the decent was fun.

FFA.

Amazing Indiana Jones adventure which is committing in places. We mountain biked down the valley and started climbing at 2.30pm on the 21st, and bivied at the top of the 3rd pitch. We then topped out at 2.30pm on the 22nd, and then did the canyon descent to the west - I seem to remember us having to get naked at one point as it was wet and we had no spare clothes! It was then a 2hr bike out in the dark. We found an old DIY tube chock high up on the route, plus 2 dynabolts and a manky peg which confirmed we were on the right line. Amazing winter adventure!