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Ascents in Coke Ovens Cliff

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 1,188 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality Climber
Sat 27th Apr 2024 - Wolgan Valley
Coke Ovens Cliff
18 ~19 Sizzler - with Angela Ha Trad 81m
Daniel G
Tried P1 of sizzler and absolutely sizzled in the sun. Eventually used some sport climber beta to overcome the overhang and sweated my way up through the jams. Condiiis!

 
17 Sap - with Angela Ha Trad 55m Classic
Daniel G
Another awesome hand crack, Wolgan does not disappoint. Just did P1

 
Fri 26th Apr 2024 - Wolgan Valley
Coke Ovens Cliff
18 Cactus - with Angela Ha Trad 78m Classic
Daniel G
I led pitch one and how good! Fun stemming and jamming, had to push myself on this one. Ange led P2 which had a cruxy bit at the start and then felt much easier

 
18 Decline and Fall - with Angela Ha Trad 99m Very Good
Daniel G
An awesome finger crack with good feet and face holds. Just did P1

 
Thu 25th Apr 2024 - Wolgan Valley
Coke Ovens Cliff
16 The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) - with Angela Ha, Mira, James, Alina Trad 22m Classic
Daniel G
What an awesome crack! Lovely jams and awesome laybacking

 
19 ~17 Agent Orange - with Angela Ha, Mira, James, Alina Mixed trad 90m, 3
Daniel G
First climb in the Wolgan! Fun going up through the scoops, felt rather easy

 
Sat 16th Mar 2024 - Wolgan Valley
Coke Ovens Cliff
16 Easy The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) Trad 22m Very Good
Flynn Howley
16 The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) - with Flynn Howley Trad 22m
saxon
Fri 15th Mar 2024 - Wolgan Valley
Coke Ovens Cliff
17 Sap - with Flynn Howley Trad 55m
saxon
Thu 14th Mar 2024 - Wolgan Valley
Coke Ovens Cliff
17 ~16 Sap Trad 55m Very Good
Flynn Howley
14 Organ Grinder Trad 60m Very Good
Flynn Howley
Tue 13th Jun 2023 - Wolgan Valley
Coke Ovens Cliff
18 Sizzler P1
1 30m Trad
Trad 30m
Sam Strong
Thu 16th Mar 2023 - Wolgan Valley
Coke Ovens Cliff
18 Sizzler Trad 81m Classic
Flynn Howley
Mon 3rd Oct 2022 - Wolgan Valley
Coke Ovens Cliff
16 The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) Trad 22m Mega Classic
Maxwell Cullen
So good I forgot to place gear for half the pitch.

Awwweeeesome. Keen to come back for the full route but ran out of day.

 
19 The Knuckle Trad 52m
Maxwell Cullen
Superb. The overhanging changing corners weirdness on pitch 2 is stupidly good. Linked p1 and p2 together.

 
Fri 30th Sep 2022 - Wolgan Valley
Coke Ovens Cliff
19 The Knuckle P1
1 Second
Trad 52m
Miri Schroeter
17 Sap
1 Trad
2 Second
3 Second
Trad 55m
Miri Schroeter
Mon 27th Jun 2022 - Wolgan Valley
Coke Ovens Cliff
18 Cactus Trad 78m Classic
James Hockey
18 Sizzler Trad 81m Classic
James Hockey
Fri 17th Jun 2022 - Wolgan Valley
Coke Ovens Cliff
18 Cactus - with Sean Peters
1 18 21m lead by Sean Peters
2 18 15m lead by Sean Peters
3 18 30m lead by Dean
4 16 20m lead by Dean
Trad 86m
Dean
All the stemming and lots of finger crack.

Linked P1-2 and P3-4.

Topped out because I missed the final ring bolts (they're left around an arete and not visible when following the crack). Even though the last 10m is pretty average pro/climbing, just finishing at the bolts seems anti-climactic anyway.

Gear: triples to 3 and wires when linking; preserve small cams.

 
19 Sizzler (Sizzler P1) - with Sean Peters
1 19 30m
Trad 30m
Dean
Oops. Slipped out of the thin hands above the overhang. Stiff warmup!

Also RIP one of the footholds below the overhang.

 
18 Sizzler (Sizzler P1) - with Sean Peters
1 30m
Trad 30m
Dean
Got some better hand jams at the overhang and then a very high left foot.

The fist jam section felt hard!

Some serious exertion between the rest positions on this one - felt a little sick by the end and struggled to even lift the rope to clip the anchors. Cool crack moves throughout - even used hand stacks in the final offwidth.

(Maybe questionable RP ethics here: I didn't clean the pieces I fell on and started above the first juggy moves).

Gear: crack gets continually wider... singles .3-.75,3x1,3x2,2x3,2x4, bolt plate

 
Sat 11th Jun 2022 - Wolgan Valley
Coke Ovens Cliff
18 Sizzler Trad 81m Classic
Ally
15 17 Sap - with David Trad 55m Classic
Ally
Mon 6th Jun 2022 - Wolgan Valley
Coke Ovens Cliff
21 In the Name of Morality Trad 65m
Dmitry Linkov
one of the best lines on Cook Ovens which surprisingly does not get that many ascents. Definitely can and should be done as a single pitch. First part will consume all your big gear (not bigger than 4) while the second part will go on small cams and medium nuts. on the softer side of 21 70m rope JUST reaches the ground on the stretch on the abseil

 
Sat 4th Jun 2022 - Wolgan Valley
Coke Ovens Cliff
21 In the Name of Morality - with Dmitry Linkov Trad 65m Mega Classic
Rollacoasta
my favourite in coke ovens

 
Sat 21st May 2022 - Wolgan Valley
Coke Ovens Cliff
18 Sizzler Trad 81m Classic
Cameron Brown
Great jam crack! Only had one #4 so bumped it until I could no longer then just ran it out. Pumpy getting through the overhang before being established in the crack

 
Sun 8th May 2022 - Wolgan Valley
Coke Ovens Cliff
18 Planet Waves - with Hugh Ward Trad 70m Classic
hugh sutherland
Wed 4th May 2022 - Wolgan Valley
Coke Ovens Cliff
19 The Knuckle - with Martin Cankov
1 19 52m
2
3
Trad 52m Classic
Ludek Sykora
Fri 15th Apr 2022 - Wolgan Valley
Coke Ovens Cliff
18 Cactus (Cactus P1) - with root
1 18 21m
2 18 15m
3 18 30m
4 16 20m
Trad 86m
rickau
First pitch only, nice chimney moves

 
14 Organ Grinder (Organ Grinder P1)
1 14 30m
2
Trad 30m
rickau
First climb at the Wolgan. First pitch only, inside crack still damp.

 
18 Cactus P1
1 18 21m
Trad 21m Classic
root
Awesome finger crack

 
14 Organ Grinder Trad 60m Very Good
root
First time climbing on gear, sick!

 
Sat 9th Apr 2022 - Wolgan Valley
Coke Ovens Cliff
20 The Wars of the Roses - with Dmitry Linkov
1 16 72m lead by Rollacoasta
2 17
3 20
4 16
Trad 72m Mega Classic
Rollacoasta
Mar 2022 - Wolgan Valley
Coke Ovens Cliff
19 The Knuckle - with Sophie Lewandowski Trad 52m Classic
Blueoffset4lyf
Everything feels wild in wolgan, great day

 
Feb 2022 - Wolgan Valley
Coke Ovens Cliff
26 Anzac Day - with Bryden Williams Sport 25m, 5 Good
Blueoffset4lyf
Didn't know what the route was, Bryden and I chose it for the warm up 🤦🏻‍♂️. Very bold, escaped to chimney. Heaved on a massive chockstone which snapped in half luckily my back fell against the back of the chimney leaving me with a basketball sized lump of sandstone in my hands which I unceremoniously slam dunked down le chimney before continuing on my way.

 
20 Ishtar - with Bryden Williams Trad 50m Classic
Blueoffset4lyf
Started raining 10m off the ground, first lead at wolgan topped out on some very slick water washed sandstone siic offered to clean on rap but Bryden opted to second in the rain

 
Sat 29th Jan 2022 - Wolgan Valley
Coke Ovens Cliff
20 Ishtar Trad 50m Classic
Bryden Williams
Seconded after Evan lead in the rain, with a few slimey issues up top but got it clean. R Great crack, uncanny holds, excellent

 
26 Anzac Day Sport 25m, 5 Good
Bryden Williams
Bolting style makes for a gripping time! Not too hard up to 4th bolt but I took the bait and entered the chimney thinking it'd aid me stepping back out onto final arete bolt but the thought of wiping out onto the platform below with that final run out had me top out via easy but airy chimney on pretty loose pro. Actually thought this was a mixed route! Should have checked the route before attempting but anyhoo. Would be keen on a clean direct send after a quick inspection of the top section to suss out those smooth holds to minimise a potential deck out on that platform.

 
Fri 14th Jan 2022 - Wolgan Valley
Coke Ovens Cliff
18 Cactus - with Rob
1 18 21m
2 18 15m
3 18 30m
4 16 20m
Trad 86m Mega Classic
Myles
Absolutely awesome climb 3rd pitch is the money but 1st and 2nd also great

 
15 Monkey Business - with Rob Trad 30m Average
Myles
Warm up but pretty average

 
16 The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) - with Rob Trad 22m Mega Classic
Myles
Best corner crack, laybacking forever. Just sooooooo good. Loads of yellow cams

 
19 Sizzler P1 - with Rob
1 19 30m
Trad 30m Good
Myles
Hard! Just did first pitch. Was super dirty. Getting up the roof was really hard then difficultly let up a tiny bit. Getting to the anchors meant a walk over extremely loose landslide. Rob missed the carrot that protects the scramble while being extremely run out. Don’t miss the carrot!

 
Thu 12th Aug 2021 - Wolgan Valley
Coke Ovens Cliff
18 Cactus Trad 78m
Hunter Cole
Quality outing

 
18 Mirrorman Mixed trad 90m, 4
Hunter Cole
Was questioning its classic status until we got to the last pitch, unreal

 
16 The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) Trad 22m
Hunter Cole
Absolutely stella

 
Tue 22nd Jun 2021 - Wolgan Valley
Coke Ovens Cliff
19 The Knuckle - with Bridie Campbell Trad 52m Classic
Justine Jenkins
Only the first pitch.

 
Fri 4th Jun 2021 - Wolgan Valley
Coke Ovens Cliff
15 Death-bed Confession - with Bridie Campbell
1 15 60m lead by Justine Jenkins
2 lead by Bridie Campbell
Mixed trad 60m, 10 Classic
Justine Jenkins
19 The Knuckle - with Bridie Campbell Trad 52m Classic
Justine Jenkins
Only had time for the first pitch, but it was great! I can't wait to come back and do the whole thing.

 
18 Decline and Fall - with Bridie Campbell Trad 99m Classic
Justine Jenkins
18 Decline and Fall - with Bridie Campbell Trad 99m Classic
Justine Jenkins
Sun 23rd May 2021 - Wolgan Valley
Coke Ovens Cliff
14 Organ Grinder - with emily small Trad 60m Very Good
Stephen 'scuba' Ayling
Awesome 1st pitch, rubbish 2nd pitch.

 
Wed 19th May 2021 - Wolgan Valley
Coke Ovens Cliff
17 Sap (Sap P1)
1 17 55m
Trad 55m Very Good
Kalang Kedumba Jones
Just lovely

 
14 Death Bed Confessions (Alt) Mixed trad 30m, 8 Average
Kalang Kedumba Jones
Great place for building sand castles

 
Sun 16th May 2021 - Wolgan Valley
Coke Ovens Cliff
22 Flame Trad 22m Good
Anton Korsun
Top rope solo with rest at the hanging block. That thing sounds hollow, is a pretty key hold and remains there by the grace of all the saints and spirits you can pray to.

Would be a nice lead if the block was reinforced.

 
16 The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) Trad 22m
Anton Korsun
Top rope solo lap in approach shoes to get some photos

 
Sat 15th May 2021 - Wolgan Valley
Coke Ovens Cliff
16 The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) - with Anton Korsun, Zi Hui Lie Trad 22m
Brandon
Still can’t get it clean. Maybe some day.

 
16 The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) Trad 22m
Anton Korsun
Sun 2nd May 2021 - Wolgan Valley
Coke Ovens Cliff
16 The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) Trad 22m
Jimmy O'Reilly
14 Organ Grinder Trad 60m
Jimmy O'Reilly
14 Sod Direct Trad 25m
Jimmy O'Reilly
18 Mirrorman Mixed trad 90m, 4
Jimmy O'Reilly
17 Sap Trad 55m
Jimmy O'Reilly
Mon 12th Apr 2021 - Wolgan Valley
Coke Ovens Cliff
13 The Necromancer Variant Start - with Jimmy O'Reilly, Ally Trad 15m
Miri Schroeter
18 Decline and Fall - with Jimmy O'Reilly, Ally Trad 99m
Miri Schroeter
17 Sap Trad 55m Classic
Ally
First pitch only. Awkward start that’s hard to protect. Once gaining the crack the climb is awesome. Take big gear!

 
13 Barrel Organ Trad 81m Average
Jimmy O'Reilly
16 Grunter Trad 51m
Jimmy O'Reilly
second pitch is very sandy

 
19 Bristling Dogs Trad 48m
Jimmy O'Reilly
20 Ishtar Trad 50m Classic
Jimmy O'Reilly
fell after the crux!

 
Sun 11th Apr 2021 - Wolgan Valley
Coke Ovens Cliff
16 The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) - with Jimmy O'Reilly, Ally Trad 22m Very Good
Miri Schroeter
Sat 10th Apr 2021 - Wolgan Valley
Coke Ovens Cliff
18 Mirrorman - with Jimmy O'Reilly, Ally
1 16 25m Trad
2 18 20m Second
Mixed trad 45m, 4
Miri Schroeter
13 Barrel Organ - with Jimmy O'Reilly, Ally
1 Second
2 Trad
3 Second
Trad 81m
Miri Schroeter
16 Grunter Direct Finish - with Jimmy O'Reilly, Ally Trad 25m
Miri Schroeter
16 Grunter Trad 51m
Ally
Ok

 
16 Grunter Trad 51m
Ally
Ok

 
14 Sod Direct Trad 25m Average
Ally
13 Barrel Organ Trad 81m Good
Ally
Led first and last pitch. Erosion at the tree anchor at the top.

 
Tue 6th Apr 2021 - Wolgan Valley
Coke Ovens Cliff
16 The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) Trad 22m Very Good
Adam Sanders
14 Organ Grinder Trad 60m
Adam Sanders
15 Monkey Business Trad 30m
Adam Sanders
Wed 10th Mar 2021 - Wolgan Valley
Coke Ovens Cliff
19 Gets Better With Traffic - with Nat Trad 25m Average
Marco de Jongh
Pretty sketchy, the horizontal crack under the roof is super sandy, all the holds after the roof are loose, pull carefully

 
Mon 8th Mar 2021 - Wolgan Valley
Coke Ovens Cliff
20 The Wars of the Roses Trad 72m Mega Classic
Rick
18 Sizzler - with Dick Trad 81m Classic
Josephine Roper
A prolonged team failure. Showed Dick how to pull the overhang, but stopped at the diagonal #3/4 section coz I know I suck at jamming that size and didn't want to be there all day.

 
18 Sizzler - with Dick Trad 81m Classic
Josephine Roper
Top roped to the top layback and then decided I didn't wanna do it either and bailed off a carrot to the right. Take a second 4 or a 5 if you're a wimp like us Definitely keen to do it again though.

 
16 Mirrorman P1 - with Dick
1 16 25m
Mixed trad 25m, 4 Good
Josephine Roper
Just pitch 1, bit harder than it looks from the ground but fun feature.

 
16 The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) - with Dick Trad 22m Classic
Josephine Roper
I think it was a great struggle but clean (the whole weekend is a bit of a blur). Dick's beta: fortunately it takes various different sizes! Me: blithely places both #2s down low. Dick's later beta: oh yeah actually by "different sizes" I meant there's one spot for an overcammed #3 somewhere. I need to get better at eyeballing cracks. Lol.

 
18 Sizzler - with Josephine Roper Trad 81m Classic
Dick
I couldn't get over the intial roof. My hands are too fat for a solid jam here, even without gloves. If I had chosen a better route to warm up on first, I would probably have been able to commit to the move.

 
18 Sizzler - with Josephine Roper Trad 81m Classic
Dick
Climbed up on Josie's gear to the wider #3 section. Went through that just fine, went up the ledge, only to find the crack widening further and further. Armed with a single #4, this would require me walking the #4 all the way up while laybacking. Not doing that. Eventually we bailed off the carrot on the ledge. Meh. A beautiful, beautiful line otherwise - would come back for this.

We should've studied/downloaded this very page from TheCrag before heading down to the Wolgan - literally the last comment says we should take double #4 or a #5 for the wide top...

 
16 Mirrorman (Mirrorman P1) - with Josephine Roper, Marco de Jongh, Nat
1 16 25m lead by Dick
Mixed trad 25m, 4
Dick
Fun pitch, awkward climbing up the ramp and then a largely unprotected offwidth/chimney to the anchor.

Only P1. Note: We rapped off the carrots - You can't rap here unless you've got buddies already at the belay, or you have to leave bolt plates/biners/gear.

 
16 The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) - with Josephine Roper Trad 22m Classic
Dick
What an amazing line. This thing eats #2s for breakfast. Found good placements for the occasional #1 and #3 (albeit overcammed). Crack does seem to flare inwards at places, so check your #1 placements. Brought doubles, and still had a #2 left when I reached the anchor - I did run it out a bit. #4 for the top useful, but it's easy terrain.

 
18 Mirrorman - with Nat
1 16 25m lead by Marco de Jongh
2 18 20m lead by Nat
Mixed trad 45m, 4 Average
Marco de Jongh
We tried to do "one last climb" on Saturday at 6pm. Lead P1 without much issue. The chimney is pretty poorly protected, and falling would lead to serious injury, but the moves are easy enough, so I made it to the anchor without much issue.

On P2, Nat got off route pretty severely and ended up traversing right, when she was about 2m to the right of the p2 anchor, due to tunnel vision caused by how run out she already was and the onset of darkness, with almost no gear to the tree on top of Mazurka. When I started seconding, now in the dark, I was kind of over it at this point and just wanted to get to the tree to bail, so I decided to french free. The first cam I pulled on blew, and I fell about 8m. After getting back up, when I got to the next pro, I saw that after taking that out, I had about 20m of traversing to do on a slopey slab in the dark, with only 2 pieces of gear, which after blowing a cam already, I did not trust anymore. Too afraid to continue on, I regretted my mistakes leading up to this point and spent a good 30min contemplating how to get out of it. There were no extra placements anywhere near me, just a sandy pocket that had the .4 I was stuck at.

I ended up cleaning up the sandy pocket, I was stuck at, after which it could take an extra .3. I then had myself lowered on the two cams on tag line and top rope, clipping the carrot of Mirrorman back in as extra safety.

Now definitely don't want to make excuses for our poor decision making:

  • Don't start a multi at 6pm
  • Make sure you leader brings a head torch (we did have them but they were in the second bag)
  • If the guidebook states "poorly" protected it probably is.

But I feel like this multi would be more classic if P2 had an extra carrot between the prominent pocket that takes a .3 - .4 cam that I bailed on and the anchor. It would still be an excitingly runout pitch even with the extra carrot. More than happy to pay for this bolt and help placing it.

 
Sun 7th Mar 2021 - Wolgan Valley
Coke Ovens Cliff
16 Mirrorman - with Marco de Jongh
1 16 25m lead by Nat
Mixed trad 25m, 4
Nat
The ropes would not pull from the tree no matter what we did. So lead P1 to get back to the top of the pedestal to try and see if it would help to be on higher ground to pull our stuck ropes. It did not. Ascended the rope a second time and left a sling and locker around the tree.

 
17 Mazurka - with Marco de Jongh Trad 95m
Nat
OS P1 and second half of P2 (yesterday)

P1 is nuts! Continuous sand rain, foot slips on lichen covered rock and my ass got stuck in the chimney.

 
Sat 6th Mar 2021 - Wolgan Valley
Coke Ovens Cliff
18 Mirrorman (Mirrorman Linkup half of P2 of Mazurka) - with Marco de Jongh
1 16 25m lead by Marco de Jongh
2 18 30m linkup half of P2 of Mazurka , lead by Nat
3 17 20m
4 18 25m
Mixed trad 100m, 4
Nat
Discovered that it's really easy to get lost on a route with no bolts or crack to show you the way (in addition to the stupidity of not reading the guidebook instructions).

Ironically, climbed up to the DRBB of P2 but was under the impression that the anchors would be near a small tree and consist of three carrots so I took a hard right and traversed across the slab to the offwidth and slim tree on Mazurka (I am very blind this happens all the time). Tree was way too skinny to belay off so climbed up to a higher tree. This produced a massive zig-zag line held together by terrible pro. Marco's write up is a great reference.

 
19 The Knuckle (The Knuckle Linkup P3) - with Marco de Jongh
1 19 52m lead by Nat
2 19 linkup P3 The Knuckle , lead by Nat
3 16
4 14 10m linkup P3 Dan the Bulldog , lead by Marco de Jongh
5 19 20m linkup Gets Better With Traffic , lead by Nat
Trad 82m
Nat
Well near slid off the cliff clawing my way up the scree slope to the tree anchor.

Everyones favourite nightmare, falling off after topping out

 
Sat 6th Feb 2021 - Wolgan Valley
Coke Ovens Cliff
14 Sod Direct - with Jimmy O'Reilly Trad 25m
Miri Schroeter
16 The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) - with Jimmy O'Reilly Trad 22m Very Good
Miri Schroeter
16 The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) - with Jimmy O'Reilly Trad 22m Very Good
Miri Schroeter
Wed 3rd Feb 2021 - Wolgan Valley
Coke Ovens Cliff
23 Le Voleur Trad 30m Mega Classic
hugh sutherland
Awesome hard climbing, perfect rock

 

Showing 1 - 100 out of 1,188 ascents.

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