Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sat 27th Apr 2024 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 ~19 | ★★★ Sizzler - with Angela Ha | 81m | |||||
Tried P1 of sizzler and absolutely sizzled in the sun. Eventually used some sport climber beta to overcome the overhang and sweated my way up through the jams. Condiiis!
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17 | ★★ Sap - with Angela Ha | 55m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Another awesome hand crack, Wolgan does not disappoint. Just did P1
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Fri 26th Apr 2024 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 | ★★★ Cactus - with Angela Ha | 78m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
I led pitch one and how good! Fun stemming and jamming, had to push myself on this one. Ange led P2 which had a cruxy bit at the start and then felt much easier
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18 | ★★ Decline and Fall - with Angela Ha | 99m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
An awesome finger crack with good feet and face holds. Just did P1
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Thu 25th Apr 2024 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
16 | ★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) - with Angela Ha, Mira, James, Alina | 22m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
What an awesome crack! Lovely jams and awesome laybacking
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19 ~17 | ★ Agent Orange - with Angela Ha, Mira, James, Alina | 90m, 3 | |||||
First climb in the Wolgan! Fun going up through the scoops, felt rather easy
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Sat 16th Mar 2024 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
16 Easy | ★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) | 22m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
16 | ★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) - with Flynn Howley | 22m | |||||
Fri 15th Mar 2024 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
17 | ★★ Sap - with Flynn Howley | 55m | |||||
Thu 14th Mar 2024 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
17 ~16 | ★★ Sap | 55m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
14 | ★★ Organ Grinder | 60m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tue 13th Jun 2023 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Sizzler P1
1
30m
| 30m | |||||
Thu 16th Mar 2023 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 | ★★★ Sizzler | 81m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Mon 3rd Oct 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
16 | ★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) | 22m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
So good I forgot to place gear for half the pitch.
Awwweeeesome. Keen to come back for the full route but ran out of day. |
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19 | ★★★ The Knuckle | 52m | |||||
Superb. The overhanging changing corners weirdness on pitch 2 is stupidly good. Linked p1 and p2 together.
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Fri 30th Sep 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
19 |
★★★ The Knuckle P1
1
| 52m | |||||
17 |
★★ Sap
1
2
3
| 55m | |||||
Mon 27th Jun 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 | ★★★ Cactus | 78m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
18 | ★★★ Sizzler | 81m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fri 17th Jun 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Cactus
- with
Sean Peters
| 86m | |||||
All the stemming and lots of finger crack.
Linked P1-2 and P3-4. Topped out because I missed the final ring bolts (they're left around an arete and not visible when following the crack). Even though the last 10m is pretty average pro/climbing, just finishing at the bolts seems anti-climactic anyway. Gear: triples to 3 and wires when linking; preserve small cams. |
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19 |
★★★ Sizzler (Sizzler P1)
- with
Sean Peters
1
19
30m
| 30m | |||||
Oops. Slipped out of the thin hands above the overhang. Stiff warmup!
Also RIP one of the footholds below the overhang. |
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18 |
★★★ Sizzler (Sizzler P1)
- with
Sean Peters
1
30m
| 30m | |||||
Got some better hand jams at the overhang and then a very high left foot.
The fist jam section felt hard! Some serious exertion between the rest positions on this one - felt a little sick by the end and struggled to even lift the rope to clip the anchors. Cool crack moves throughout - even used hand stacks in the final offwidth. (Maybe questionable RP ethics here: I didn't clean the pieces I fell on and started above the first juggy moves). Gear: crack gets continually wider... singles .3-.75,3x1,3x2,2x3,2x4, bolt plate |
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Sat 11th Jun 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 | ★★★ Sizzler | 81m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
15 17 | ★★ Sap - with David | 55m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Mon 6th Jun 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
21 | ★★★ In the Name of Morality | 65m | |||||
one of the best lines on Cook Ovens which surprisingly does not get that many ascents.
Definitely can and should be done as a single pitch. First part will consume all your big gear (not bigger than 4) while the second part will go on small cams and medium nuts. on the softer side of 21
70m rope JUST reaches the ground on the stretch on the abseil
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Sat 4th Jun 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
21 | ★★★ In the Name of Morality - with Dmitry Linkov | 65m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
my favourite in coke ovens
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Sat 21st May 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 | ★★★ Sizzler | 81m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great jam crack! Only had one #4 so bumped it until I could no longer then just ran it out. Pumpy getting through the overhang before being established in the crack
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Sun 8th May 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 | ★★ Planet Waves - with Hugh Ward | 70m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Wed 4th May 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
19 |
★★★ The Knuckle
- with
Martin Cankov
1
19
52m
2
3
| 52m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fri 15th Apr 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Cactus (Cactus P1)
- with
root
1
18
21m
2
18
15m
3
18
30m
4
16
20m
| 86m | |||||
First pitch only, nice chimney moves
|
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14 |
★★ Organ Grinder (Organ Grinder P1)
1
14
30m
2
| 30m | |||||
First climb at the Wolgan. First pitch only, inside crack still damp.
|
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18 |
★★★ Cactus P1
1
18
21m
| 21m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Awesome finger crack
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14 | ★★ Organ Grinder | 60m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
First time climbing on gear, sick!
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Sat 9th Apr 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
20 | ★★★ The Wars of the Roses - with Dmitry Linkov | 72m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Mar 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
19 | ★★★ The Knuckle - with Sophie Lewandowski | 52m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Everything feels wild in wolgan, great day
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Feb 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
26 | ★ Anzac Day - with Bryden Williams | 25m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Didn't know what the route was, Bryden and I chose it for the warm up 🤦🏻♂️. Very bold, escaped to chimney. Heaved on a massive chockstone which snapped in half luckily my back fell against the back of the chimney leaving me with a basketball sized lump of sandstone in my hands which I unceremoniously slam dunked down le chimney before continuing on my way.
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20 | ★★★ Ishtar - with Bryden Williams | 50m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Started raining 10m off the ground, first lead at wolgan topped out on some very slick water washed sandstone siic
offered to clean on rap but Bryden opted to second in the rain
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Sat 29th Jan 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Ishtar | 50m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Seconded after Evan lead in the rain, with a few slimey issues up top but got it clean. R
Great crack, uncanny holds, excellent
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26 | ★ Anzac Day | 25m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Bolting style makes for a gripping time! Not too hard up to 4th bolt but I took the bait and entered the chimney thinking it'd aid me stepping back out onto final arete bolt but the thought of wiping out onto the platform below with that final run out had me top out via easy but airy chimney on pretty loose pro. Actually thought this was a mixed route! Should have checked the route before attempting but anyhoo. Would be keen on a clean direct send after a quick inspection of the top section to suss out those smooth holds to minimise a potential deck out on that platform.
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Fri 14th Jan 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Cactus
- with
Rob
1
18
21m
2
18
15m
3
18
30m
4
16
20m
| 86m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Absolutely awesome climb 3rd pitch is the money but 1st and 2nd also great
|
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15 | ★★ Monkey Business - with Rob | 30m | Average | ||||
Warm up but pretty average
|
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16 | ★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) - with Rob | 22m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Best corner crack, laybacking forever. Just sooooooo good. Loads of yellow cams
|
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19 |
★★★ Sizzler P1
- with
Rob
1
19
30m
| 30m | ★ Good | ||||
Hard! Just did first pitch. Was super dirty. Getting up the roof was really hard then difficultly let up a tiny bit. Getting to the anchors meant a walk over extremely loose landslide. Rob missed the carrot that protects the scramble while being extremely run out. Don’t miss the carrot!
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Thu 12th Aug 2021 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 | ★★★ Cactus | 78m | |||||
Quality outing
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18 | ★★★ Mirrorman | 90m, 4 | |||||
Was questioning its classic status until we got to the last pitch, unreal
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16 | ★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) | 22m | |||||
Absolutely stella
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Tue 22nd Jun 2021 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
19 | ★★★ The Knuckle - with Bridie Campbell | 52m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Only the first pitch.
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Fri 4th Jun 2021 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
15 |
★ Death-bed Confession
- with
Bridie Campbell
2
lead by
Bridie Campbell
| 60m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
19 | ★★★ The Knuckle - with Bridie Campbell | 52m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Only had time for the first pitch, but it was great! I can't wait to come back and do the whole thing.
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18 | ★★ Decline and Fall - with Bridie Campbell | 99m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
18 | ★★ Decline and Fall - with Bridie Campbell | 99m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sun 23rd May 2021 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
14 | ★★ Organ Grinder - with emily small | 60m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Awesome 1st pitch, rubbish 2nd pitch.
|
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Wed 19th May 2021 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
17 |
★★ Sap (Sap P1)
1
17
55m
| 55m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Just lovely
|
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14 | ★ Death Bed Confessions (Alt) | 30m, 8 | Average | ||||
Great place for building sand castles
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Sun 16th May 2021 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
22 | ★ Flame | 22m | ★ Good | ||||
Top rope solo with rest at the hanging block. That thing sounds hollow, is a pretty key hold and remains there by the grace of all the saints and spirits you can pray to.
Would be a nice lead if the block was reinforced. |
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16 | ★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) | 22m | |||||
Top rope solo lap in approach shoes to get some photos
|
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Sat 15th May 2021 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
16 | ★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) - with Anton Korsun, Zi Hui Lie | 22m | |||||
Still can’t get it clean. Maybe some day.
|
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16 | ★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) | 22m | |||||
Sun 2nd May 2021 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
16 | ★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) | 22m | |||||
14 | ★★ Organ Grinder | 60m | |||||
14 | ★ Sod Direct | 25m | |||||
18 | ★★★ Mirrorman | 90m, 4 | |||||
17 | ★★ Sap | 55m | |||||
Mon 12th Apr 2021 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
13 | The Necromancer Variant Start - with Jimmy O'Reilly, Ally | 15m | |||||
18 | ★★ Decline and Fall - with Jimmy O'Reilly, Ally | 99m | |||||
17 | ★★ Sap | 55m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
First pitch only. Awkward start that’s hard to protect. Once gaining the crack the climb is awesome. Take big gear!
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13 | ★ Barrel Organ | 81m | Average | ||||
16 | ★ Grunter | 51m | |||||
second pitch is very sandy
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19 | ★ Bristling Dogs | 48m | |||||
20 | ★★★ Ishtar | 50m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
fell after the crux!
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Sun 11th Apr 2021 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
16 | ★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) - with Jimmy O'Reilly, Ally | 22m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 10th Apr 2021 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Mirrorman
- with
Jimmy O'Reilly, Ally
1
16
25m
2
18
20m
| 45m, 4 | |||||
13 |
★ Barrel Organ
- with
Jimmy O'Reilly, Ally
1
2
3
| 81m | |||||
16 | ★ Grunter Direct Finish - with Jimmy O'Reilly, Ally | 25m | |||||
16 | ★ Grunter | 51m | |||||
Ok
|
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16 | ★ Grunter | 51m | |||||
Ok
|
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14 | ★ Sod Direct | 25m | Average | ||||
13 | ★ Barrel Organ | 81m | ★ Good | ||||
Led first and last pitch. Erosion at the tree anchor at the top.
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Tue 6th Apr 2021 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
16 | ★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) | 22m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
14 | ★★ Organ Grinder | 60m | |||||
15 | ★★ Monkey Business | 30m | |||||
Wed 10th Mar 2021 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
19 | Gets Better With Traffic - with Nat | 25m | Average | ||||
Pretty sketchy, the horizontal crack under the roof is super sandy, all the holds after the roof are loose, pull carefully
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Mon 8th Mar 2021 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
20 | ★★★ The Wars of the Roses | 72m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
18 | ★★★ Sizzler - with Dick | 81m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
A prolonged team failure. Showed Dick how to pull the overhang, but stopped at the diagonal #3/4 section coz I know I suck at jamming that size and didn't want to be there all day.
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18 | ★★★ Sizzler - with Dick | 81m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Top roped to the top layback and then decided I didn't wanna do it either and bailed off a carrot to the right. Take a second 4 or a 5 if you're a wimp like us Definitely keen to do it again though.
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16 |
★★★ Mirrorman P1
- with
Dick
1
16
25m
| 25m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Just pitch 1, bit harder than it looks from the ground but fun feature.
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16 | ★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) - with Dick | 22m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
I think it was a great struggle but clean (the whole weekend is a bit of a blur). Dick's beta: fortunately it takes various different sizes! Me: blithely places both #2s down low. Dick's later beta: oh yeah actually by "different sizes" I meant there's one spot for an overcammed #3 somewhere.
I need to get better at eyeballing cracks. Lol.
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18 | ★★★ Sizzler - with Josephine Roper | 81m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
I couldn't get over the intial roof. My hands are too fat for a solid jam here, even without gloves. If I had chosen a better route to warm up on first, I would probably have been able to commit to the move.
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18 | ★★★ Sizzler - with Josephine Roper | 81m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Climbed up on Josie's gear to the wider #3 section. Went through that just fine, went up the ledge, only to find the crack widening further and further. Armed with a single #4, this would require me walking the #4 all the way up while laybacking. Not doing that.
Eventually we bailed off the carrot on the ledge. Meh. A beautiful, beautiful line otherwise - would come back for this.
We should've studied/downloaded this very page from TheCrag before heading down to the Wolgan - literally the last comment says we should take double #4 or a #5 for the wide top... |
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16 |
★★★ Mirrorman (Mirrorman P1)
- with
Josephine Roper, Marco de Jongh, Nat
| 25m, 4 | |||||
Fun pitch, awkward climbing up the ramp and then a largely unprotected offwidth/chimney to the anchor.
Only P1. Note: We rapped off the carrots - You can't rap here unless you've got buddies already at the belay, or you have to leave bolt plates/biners/gear. |
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16 | ★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) - with Josephine Roper | 22m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
What an amazing line. This thing eats #2s for breakfast. Found good placements for the occasional #1 and #3 (albeit overcammed). Crack does seem to flare inwards at places, so check your #1 placements. Brought doubles, and still had a #2 left when I reached the anchor - I did run it out a bit. #4 for the top useful, but it's easy terrain.
|
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18 |
★★★ Mirrorman
- with
Nat
| 45m, 4 | Average | ||||
We tried to do "one last climb" on Saturday at 6pm. Lead P1 without much issue. The chimney is pretty poorly protected, and falling would lead to serious injury, but the moves are easy enough, so I made it to the anchor without much issue.
On P2, Nat got off route pretty severely and ended up traversing right, when she was about 2m to the right of the p2 anchor, due to tunnel vision caused by how run out she already was and the onset of darkness, with almost no gear to the tree on top of Mazurka. When I started seconding, now in the dark, I was kind of over it at this point and just wanted to get to the tree to bail, so I decided to french free. The first cam I pulled on blew, and I fell about 8m. After getting back up, when I got to the next pro, I saw that after taking that out, I had about 20m of traversing to do on a slopey slab in the dark, with only 2 pieces of gear, which after blowing a cam already, I did not trust anymore. Too afraid to continue on, I regretted my mistakes leading up to this point and spent a good 30min contemplating how to get out of it. There were no extra placements anywhere near me, just a sandy pocket that had the .4 I was stuck at. I ended up cleaning up the sandy pocket, I was stuck at, after which it could take an extra .3. I then had myself lowered on the two cams on tag line and top rope, clipping the carrot of Mirrorman back in as extra safety. Now definitely don't want to make excuses for our poor decision making:
But I feel like this multi would be more classic if P2 had an extra carrot between the prominent pocket that takes a .3 - .4 cam that I bailed on and the anchor. It would still be an excitingly runout pitch even with the extra carrot. More than happy to pay for this bolt and help placing it. |
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Sun 7th Mar 2021 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
16 |
★★★ Mirrorman
- with
Marco de Jongh
| 25m, 4 | |||||
The ropes would not pull from the tree no matter what we did. So lead P1 to get back to the top of the pedestal to try and see if it would help to be on higher ground to pull our stuck ropes. It did not. Ascended the rope a second time and left a sling and locker around the tree.
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17 | Mazurka - with Marco de Jongh | 95m | |||||
OS P1 and second half of P2 (yesterday)
P1 is nuts! Continuous sand rain, foot slips on lichen covered rock and my ass got stuck in the chimney. |
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Sat 6th Mar 2021 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Mirrorman (Mirrorman Linkup half of P2 of Mazurka)
- with
Marco de Jongh
3
17
20m
4
18
25m
| 100m, 4 | |||||
Discovered that it's really easy to get lost on a route with no bolts or crack to show you the way (in addition to the stupidity of not reading the guidebook instructions).
Ironically, climbed up to the DRBB of P2 but was under the impression that the anchors would be near a small tree and consist of three carrots so I took a hard right and traversed across the slab to the offwidth and slim tree on Mazurka (I am very blind this happens all the time). Tree was way too skinny to belay off so climbed up to a higher tree. This produced a massive zig-zag line held together by terrible pro. Marco's write up is a great reference. |
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19 |
★★★ The Knuckle (The Knuckle Linkup P3)
- with
Marco de Jongh
3
16
| 82m | |||||
Well near slid off the cliff clawing my way up the scree slope to the tree anchor.
Everyones favourite nightmare, falling off after topping out |
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Sat 6th Feb 2021 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
14 | ★ Sod Direct - with Jimmy O'Reilly | 25m | |||||
16 | ★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) - with Jimmy O'Reilly | 22m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
16 | ★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) - with Jimmy O'Reilly | 22m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Wed 3rd Feb 2021 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
23 | ★★ Le Voleur | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Awesome hard climbing, perfect rock
|