Ascents in Coke Ovens Cliff having Beta

Tried P1 of sizzler and absolutely sizzled in the sun. Eventually used some sport climber beta to overcome the overhang and sweated my way up through the jams. Condiiis!

Another awesome hand crack, Wolgan does not disappoint. Just did P1

I led pitch one and how good! Fun stemming and jamming, had to push myself on this one. Ange led P2 which had a cruxy bit at the start and then felt much easier

An awesome finger crack with good feet and face holds. Just did P1

What an awesome crack! Lovely jams and awesome laybacking

First climb in the Wolgan! Fun going up through the scoops, felt rather easy

So good I forgot to place gear for half the pitch.

Awwweeeesome. Keen to come back for the full route but ran out of day.

Superb. The overhanging changing corners weirdness on pitch 2 is stupidly good. Linked p1 and p2 together.

All the stemming and lots of finger crack.

Linked P1-2 and P3-4.

Topped out because I missed the final ring bolts (they're left around an arete and not visible when following the crack). Even though the last 10m is pretty average pro/climbing, just finishing at the bolts seems anti-climactic anyway.

Gear: triples to 3 and wires when linking; preserve small cams.

Oops. Slipped out of the thin hands above the overhang. Stiff warmup!

Also RIP one of the footholds below the overhang.

Got some better hand jams at the overhang and then a very high left foot.

The fist jam section felt hard!

Some serious exertion between the rest positions on this one - felt a little sick by the end and struggled to even lift the rope to clip the anchors. Cool crack moves throughout - even used hand stacks in the final offwidth.

(Maybe questionable RP ethics here: I didn't clean the pieces I fell on and started above the first juggy moves).

Gear: crack gets continually wider... singles .3-.75,3x1,3x2,2x3,2x4, bolt plate

one of the best lines on Cook Ovens which surprisingly does not get that many ascents. Definitely can and should be done as a single pitch. First part will consume all your big gear (not bigger than 4) while the second part will go on small cams and medium nuts. on the softer side of 21 70m rope JUST reaches the ground on the stretch on the abseil

my favourite in coke ovens

Great jam crack! Only had one #4 so bumped it until I could no longer then just ran it out. Pumpy getting through the overhang before being established in the crack

First pitch only, nice chimney moves

First climb at the Wolgan. First pitch only, inside crack still damp.

Awesome finger crack

First time climbing on gear, sick!

Everything feels wild in wolgan, great day

Didn't know what the route was, Bryden and I chose it for the warm up 🤦🏻‍♂️. Very bold, escaped to chimney. Heaved on a massive chockstone which snapped in half luckily my back fell against the back of the chimney leaving me with a basketball sized lump of sandstone in my hands which I unceremoniously slam dunked down le chimney before continuing on my way.

Started raining 10m off the ground, first lead at wolgan topped out on some very slick water washed sandstone siic offered to clean on rap but Bryden opted to second in the rain

Seconded after Evan lead in the rain, with a few slimey issues up top but got it clean. R Great crack, uncanny holds, excellent

Bolting style makes for a gripping time! Not too hard up to 4th bolt but I took the bait and entered the chimney thinking it'd aid me stepping back out onto final arete bolt but the thought of wiping out onto the platform below with that final run out had me top out via easy but airy chimney on pretty loose pro. Actually thought this was a mixed route! Should have checked the route before attempting but anyhoo. Would be keen on a clean direct send after a quick inspection of the top section to suss out those smooth holds to minimise a potential deck out on that platform.

Absolutely awesome climb 3rd pitch is the money but 1st and 2nd also great

Warm up but pretty average

Best corner crack, laybacking forever. Just sooooooo good. Loads of yellow cams

Hard! Just did first pitch. Was super dirty. Getting up the roof was really hard then difficultly let up a tiny bit. Getting to the anchors meant a walk over extremely loose landslide. Rob missed the carrot that protects the scramble while being extremely run out. Don’t miss the carrot!

Quality outing

Was questioning its classic status until we got to the last pitch, unreal

Absolutely stella

Only the first pitch.

Only had time for the first pitch, but it was great! I can't wait to come back and do the whole thing.

Awesome 1st pitch, rubbish 2nd pitch.

Just lovely

Great place for building sand castles

Top rope solo with rest at the hanging block. That thing sounds hollow, is a pretty key hold and remains there by the grace of all the saints and spirits you can pray to.

Would be a nice lead if the block was reinforced.

Top rope solo lap in approach shoes to get some photos

Still can’t get it clean. Maybe some day.

First pitch only. Awkward start that’s hard to protect. Once gaining the crack the climb is awesome. Take big gear!

second pitch is very sandy

fell after the crux!

Ok

Ok