Routes in Wollongong for selected grade

An old aid climb. Line of rusty carrots.

The corner crack. 2 or 3 number 5 cams. Pull onto the wall just left of the crack and slot the 1st cam. Up to the ledge, reach up for the 2nd cam and layback to the top (or stem off the right hand wall). Grovel over the top.

Start just right of the corner opposite Poxy Loxy.

Start 2m left of gestapo Pox underneath poxy jugs. Up to ledge and nose to top.

A poxy Chunder route. The arete 1m left of Gestapo Wall.

Start 3m left of Wind Galls at the cracks in the wall. Up the wall to tree, rap off.

3m left of Bog Spavin. The off-width corner. Climb the corner and rap off ledge.

" A typical death lead of Muir's ". Start as for Sacrifice. Up the chimney to the traverse line, then out to the bolt belay under the small corner. Head up the weakness through the overhangs to the ledge. Rap off.

A nice crack. Starts left of Jay at the initials MD. Up the crack to the ledge, then follow the final moves of Jay.

[2012 Sept - Lower Offs added]

The chimney. Natural pro. Up the chimney and step left. Up the twin cracks as for Radioactive Banana.

No pro. Pretty poor climb. Start to the left of the chimney. Jugs up the overhang left and up. Step back right and up the choss. Originally done to full height (20m).

Use Shadow Lower-offs. Not a bad crack. Natural pro. Not a bad climb to learn the finer art of cam placement. Another one of those bouldery starts then 3 layback moves to glory.

If you mantle you can gain access to the belayer ring bolts and use them to make a mixed multi-pitch, linking to HappyCow Cheese.

Crack 3m left of "Archer's Arc".

Mantle then follow the offwidth. Marked 'OS'. Teacup jams optional. Original name "Feeling Seedy New Years Day"

Natural pro. Up the crack to the ledge, then traverse off right until you can get up to the top. Could be top-roped with the Serenity top rings.

CAUTION !! Permanent bees nest in small cave halfway up the route. Makes it hard to do any of the routes on this wall.

Natural protection. A good route, start at 'J'. Up shorte arete to crack in lip of roof that comes across from Goober Grease. Up the crack then follow some bulges to exit.

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth The climb starts at the same place as Nursery, but you go straight up the crack. It is all naturally protected.

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth Natural protection. Good but too short. The finger jam flake and wall.

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth Boulder problem or toprope. A fingery short wall without using left edge of wall (side of offwidth). Up the middle of the wall for 4m and avoid last move.

A chimney with an exciting finish. Initialled.

The nice layback corner crack right of ABC start. Up corner and across right and up to anchors.

The well protected practice trad route up the weakness right of Acquired Arete. Lower off anchors.

15m right of Deb Stoops to Conquer is a slabby right facing arete, with a bunch of subtle chipped holds at ground level (all can be ignored at same grade). Tricky little start to good medium cam break, then mantle onto ledge (vital shallow finger sized cam). Boldly smear layaway up the slabby upper arete section. Tree belay well back (there used to be bolts but they have been chopped)

Corner crack to in between Frankensqueak and Master Beta. Nice crack climbing and stemming, on small foot holds in parts, then a dirty adventure to top out. Take some slings to use the trees at the top as pro. If you're just getting into Trad, this is a great climb to test your skills on, loads of bomber placements. Walk 2m back from the top for a bomber tree to belay off. If anyone feels like putting top anchors in, go for it.

2m right of Carpeted Green. Wall and crack.

Start is reached by scrambling down from wide ledge at south end of cliff. Traverse across pocketed wall and finish up wide flake crack.

Junk trad on crap rock. Some sort of corner to ramp. Forget it! Start 6m of NN

5m R of CP at corner crack formed by right side of large block. Layback up corner then finish up short wall past RB. Belay off trees.