Routes in Illawarra and Shoalhaven for selected grade

An old aid climb. Line of rusty carrots.

A reasonably nice route. About 10m left of Wind Assisted. Descent anchors are about 10m back from cliff edge. Start at small stance about 5m above the descent ledge (which has no pro). Up the crack, left to the flake and up.

The major notch between Cannon Fodder and Horn Blown. Rap from 2 carrot bolts (bolts are to the left of the notch) to a large hidden ledge 10m down. Up the corner / chimney to the top. Good cam protection.

Up 'Dracophyllum Corner' to ledge then move left and straight up wall.

Up to the ledge then head left to the arete and enjoy the exposure.

Major trad corner - starting from the left end of the ledge perched 2m above the ocean. The top 3rd of this route is a loose vegetated hillside and ruins what is otherwise quite a good route.

The obvious right leaning crack. Well protected on good rock.

The route next on the right of Orb, a metre left of Slash. Straight up on nice rock with good gear.

Obvious route up the arete then travers across sunbaking ledge above hairy pores and up flake.

Follow the dark grey splotch straight up the wall. Grade may be off, I'm not a route climber (boulderer, sue me...), just going on other things I've solo'd around here.

Traverse all the way to the slab, climb your way over the void out on the arete, shake and quiver (hopefully like the pricks that stole my stuff are) with the exposure and make your way to the anchors.

maybe best to top belay and rap down

Start: same

Step off block and follow steepening slab.

Another old trad route. Not sure how much pro you get on it but i remember it as run out. Then again its only 14.

Start: Drop down off the ledge where 'Usurper' starts and walk towards the water fall a few meters. Around the nose you will soon see a large left leaning slab and corner with lots of rooves above it. From Cab rank you can look up to the right and see a tree growing from an orange rock ledge this is the last stance.

Start as for Spank The Mank and head left to the third line of bolts up the wall.

Start 2m right of Eulalia. Tricky start then climb just right of the little cave.

The next climb right. Tricky start then climb just left of the little cave at half height.

Starts just left of the short gully. Step off the block and climb the steepening wall to anchors.

A nice introduction to trad cracks with good gear and not too testing. Starts just inside the gap. Climb the crack to the shared anchors.

Easy peasy. Right facing corner with a black slab on the right.

Start at the base of the obvious flake around the corner 10m left of Suck it up Princess. Climb the flake and on to anchors.

Start just left of eroded cave and 10m right of SIUP. Climb the edge passing the chimney then trend right to anchors.

The lefthand route on the first wall leading leftward at the arete to anchors up high.

As for 'Easy Pickings', then straight up to anchors.

Climb past the anchor past a FH to new anchor at the top of cliff.

Start: The middle line on the huge flake, just right of a massive burnt tree halfway up cliff

At the curving flake Fun climb well protected for first lead at the grade, some techo moves for the grade....Just think outside the square..

Up corner past orange rock at ¾ height. Step right at top. 6 RB's to DBB.

Right hand end of slab in descent gully.

...Birthday Long Weekend. A trad adventure that starts on a couple of really nice pockets caused by some quartz pebbles on the conglomerate slab. Up the slab before winding around the Right Hand arete of the Cornice and up to the highest point through a series of ledges. Moves probably only top out at 13 however all the gear is found in the horizontal breaks that wrap around the arete. There are some less than ideal and technical placements required to properly protect the climb so the grade is been upped a little accordingly. Despite its grade this shouldn't be considered a good option for an introduction to trad climbing.

The second climb at the crag. Climb up slab left of crack.

Start: 10m from your car under camo bolt

Straight up wall veering slightly right past 4 bolts to lower off as for 'Mc'.

Start: Start as for 'ASM'.

Has been rebolted? It's 5m R of Chinese Water Torture.

Same start as Wingardium Leviosa but at the headwall follow the right set of bolts.

Start in the corner, behind the tree... do not lean on the tree.. it bends !

don't be silly it's been Done 10 Years ago it's Thompsons Point for gods sake

Up chimney tending left under the little roof and up the left hand groove to the anchors on 'Lucifer'.

Mantle (try the right edge), up through cavelet, crux around 3rd RB and over lip onto wall. Trend right following juggy cracks on the turtle shell to ring lower-offs.

Short ledge left of the left hand wall block arete

4 or 5 moves on incuts.

Climb the wide corner crack at the back of the gully just left of the obvious orange streaked wall. It may be wise to supplement the RB's with natural gear.

Climb the crack right of 'Blister In The Sun' and finish at the anchors of 'Something For Kate'.

Easy black boulders moving onto a multi hold face. Any way to the top.

The corner crack. 2 or 3 number 5 cams. Pull onto the wall just left of the crack and slot the 1st cam. Up to the ledge, reach up for the 2nd cam and layback to the top (or stem off the right hand wall). Grovel over the top.

Start just right of the corner opposite Poxy Loxy.

Start 2m left of gestapo Pox underneath poxy jugs. Up to ledge and nose to top.

A poxy Chunder route. The arete 1m left of Gestapo Wall.

Start 3m left of Wind Galls at the cracks in the wall. Up the wall to tree, rap off.

3m left of Bog Spavin. The off-width corner. Climb the corner and rap off ledge.

" A typical death lead of Muir's ". Start as for Sacrifice. Up the chimney to the traverse line, then out to the bolt belay under the small corner. Head up the weakness through the overhangs to the ledge. Rap off.

A nice crack. Starts left of Jay at the initials MD. Up the crack to the ledge, then follow the final moves of Jay.

[2012 Sept - Lower Offs added]

The chimney. Natural pro. Up the chimney and step left. Up the twin cracks as for Radioactive Banana.

No pro. Pretty poor climb. Start to the left of the chimney. Jugs up the overhang left and up. Step back right and up the choss. Originally done to full height (20m).

Use Shadow Lower-offs. Not a bad crack. Natural pro. Not a bad climb to learn the finer art of cam placement. Another one of those bouldery starts then 3 layback moves to glory.

If you mantle you can gain access to the belayer ring bolts and use them to make a mixed multi-pitch, linking to HappyCow Cheese.

Crack 3m left of "Archer's Arc".

Mantle then follow the offwidth. Marked 'OS'. Teacup jams optional. Original name "Feeling Seedy New Years Day"

Natural pro. Up the crack to the ledge, then traverse off right until you can get up to the top. Could be top-roped with the Serenity top rings.

CAUTION !! Permanent bees nest in small cave halfway up the route. Makes it hard to do any of the routes on this wall.

Natural protection. A good route, start at 'J'. Up shorte arete to crack in lip of roof that comes across from Goober Grease. Up the crack then follow some bulges to exit.

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth The climb starts at the same place as Nursery, but you go straight up the crack. It is all naturally protected.

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth Natural protection. Good but too short. The finger jam flake and wall.

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth Boulder problem or toprope. A fingery short wall without using left edge of wall (side of offwidth). Up the middle of the wall for 4m and avoid last move.

A chimney with an exciting finish. Initialled.

The nice layback corner crack right of ABC start. Up corner and across right and up to anchors.

The well protected practice trad route up the weakness right of Acquired Arete. Lower off anchors.

15m right of Deb Stoops to Conquer is a slabby right facing arete, with a bunch of subtle chipped holds at ground level (all can be ignored at same grade). Tricky little start to good medium cam break, then mantle onto ledge (vital shallow finger sized cam). Boldly smear layaway up the slabby upper arete section. Tree belay well back (there used to be bolts but they have been chopped)

Corner crack to in between Frankensqueak and Master Beta. Nice crack climbing and stemming, on small foot holds in parts, then a dirty adventure to top out. Take some slings to use the trees at the top as pro. If you're just getting into Trad, this is a great climb to test your skills on, loads of bomber placements. Walk 2m back from the top for a bomber tree to belay off. If anyone feels like putting top anchors in, go for it.

2m right of Carpeted Green. Wall and crack.

Start is reached by scrambling down from wide ledge at south end of cliff. Traverse across pocketed wall and finish up wide flake crack.

Junk trad on crap rock. Some sort of corner to ramp. Forget it! Start 6m of NN

5m R of CP at corner crack formed by right side of large block. Layback up corner then finish up short wall past RB. Belay off trees.

The quick way up and the quick way down. Handy for negotiating your way around.

straight up, good for confidence.

Up the left hand side

Straight up the slab closest to the back of the pump station.

Start on the obvious jug to the left of the cave. Climb straight up to the highball topout.