Ascents in Obere Nasenwand

7c+/8a

mega route, more like 7c+

What a beast. Lots of diverse boulder problems separated by rests of different quality. I clipped the chains with nothing left in my arms, close to fall. This feels like a real benchmark for 8a routes. A route cant get any better than this.

Fell on the last move

🥳

Tried the crux move (a dynamic move far up to a sidepull and then moving up the right foot) at least 35 times, and could do it exactly once. Unless I can somehow climb this differently, chances of sending are slim.

The motivation for the crux move was a bit lacking today after so many unsuccessful tries yesterday.

A bit sandy, not as good as the guidebook says

A short technical traverse at the bottom, then some really nice endurance climbing.

3rd go

One strong move at the bottom, weird climbing on an edge at the top.

Für mich ist die Schlüsselstelle am 4ten Haken. Aus linkem seitgriff klippen, Dann rechts an kleine leiste. Links hochstehen und links an seit sloper greifen. Rechts hochstehen. Links unten bleiben und mit rechts in Henkel. Um über die kante zu kommen links an beide Henkel raus. Und rechts hoch auf Henkel stehen hooken. Dann dranbleiben.

3 more tries. Clip the 4th quickdraw from below (it needs to be longer for this). Then shake before the boulder. Over the roof it is way easier to put your right foot on the big foothold (and not hook). But still go from the two jugs on the left. A little bit too tired on the last try and the sun was already coming in.

Superfun to try to onsight. Beaaaautiful moves! Thanks Hans.

Misread the hand sequence in the upper part and took a sloper with lots of chalk on it too early, so I had to rest once in the onsight go.

Super abwechslungsreiche Tour an interessanten Felsstrukturen. Crux ganz oben zum UH hin.

Schöne Tour! Der Anfang ist ein bisschen hart wenn man nicht weiß das über dem Überhang gute Griffe kommen. Von rechts hochklettern, damit man nicht so ausgestreckt rechts an den Henkel ziehen muss. Oben übers Dach nochmal ein bisschen anstrengend.

Laybacked the crux. Feels like a multipitch! Thanks Hans.

Long edge...