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Goldbichl

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UIAA

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Summary

Noisy roadside crag with a sunny, lower tier offering 4 or 5 good routes. The upper tier is mostly sun-sheltered but only offers mediocre routes and a practice belay. Encouraging holiday bolting.

Description

Goldbichl consists of two, south-facing tiers. The lower tier offers some short, vertical to overhanging, juggy routes on good rock. The rock-quality in the upper tier is not as good and the routes are mostly in the lowest grades. Some look chossy and some are quite odd.

The upper tier can be a good place to practice rope technique and multi-pitching in easy terrain. There's a belay at the base of "no name 1" and all other unnamed routes are 2nd pitches of "no name 1".

Shade: The lower tier comes into shade in late afternoon. The upper tier is sheltered by large trees and offers almost full shade all day.

The routes are well protected and apparently the routes in the lower tier have been complemented with additional bolts. All routes have a two-bolt belay and a clippable lower-off.

In the middle of the upper tier there's a short boulder section with old, permanent boulder-mats abd matresses. Apparently frequently used by locals or an alpine club.

Approach

Park here: (47.21545, 11.42011) and follow the path across the road.

Ethic

Top-rope on your own gear.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Vertical on incut and mostly big holds.

Some very good flakes and jugs. The crux may be the initial mantle.

Eliminate variant.

Huge jugs all the way on the overhanging part of the wall.

Shares the first 4 bolts with "Verticale", then goes right. Still very juggy but one or two more demanding moves.

A little hidden. 15 meters to the right of the other routes of the lower tier.

A short, roof traverse on big holds. The route looks like it has been recently established and the rock doesn't look too trustworthy.

The only route to the left of the obvious "boulder spot".

Big holds but not always good friction.

Easy scrambling to the upper level of the upper tier. Starts to the left of the practice belay.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): A. Jentzsch-Rabl, A. Jentzsch

Date: 2020

Plaisirklettern in Tirol / Nordtirol / Bayern / Salzburg - Im Kletterführer werden die schönsten Touren zwischen 5 (5a) und 7 (6b) in sehr gut bis gut mit Bohrhaken ausgestatteten Mehrseillängen-Routen vorgestellt.

Author(s): M. Meisl

Date: 2016

Die besten Klettergebiete Tirols auf 672 Seiten: Von der Steinplatte bis zum Außenfern, vom Rofan bis ins Ötztal, von einfachen Kletterrouten für Anfänger und Kinder, bis hin zu den High-End-Routen am Schleierwasserfall ist alles zu finden.

Author(s): Christoph Klein & Jürgen Winkler

Date: 2023

ISBN: 978-3-95611-182-2

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Sun 23 Apr
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