Ascents in Ötztaler Alpen having Beta

Hard, hard, hard.... Feels like 8a to the rest followed by another boulder. Tried it the first time 3 years ago. Many sessions over the years, this year 2nd session. Cant beleive i sent it first time i reached the rest, i was certain i'd fall on the last boulder at least once. Started all my send goes from the ground and not platform.

Oben nicht von den Chalkspuren verleiten lassen, sondern tief bleiben, sonst steht man über dem Umlenker.

bit scary boulder off the slab

sharp holds

Climbed to clean "A Hit"... Felt quite tough for the grade - especially towards the finish the holds get rather bad.

Not a chance to get through the thin crux.

Not a chance to get into clipping position for bolt three.

Unexpected foot-slip on a clumsily done traverse...

fell at the last move 😭

Rough boulder at the start. No idea how this is a 5c, but I figured it is not the best route to start with...

Very cool route with several tricky moves throughout.

Sector a bit dusty. Route starts and ends with bulges that need to be overcome with good slab-climbing in-between.

Sector unfortunately a bit dusty, but this is a nice route starting with varied slab-climbing followed by a few athletic moves on enormous jugs. Crux probably clipping the chains...

2nd try

Oben Kleingriffig und unübersichtlich.

Einzelstelle.

Traumtour. Wohl etwas leichter als 6c+, aber mega schön!

Warm-up

May be a bit more difficult for shorter people?

Not a chance to get to the fourth bolt.

It was not meant to be. Not clipping the first bolt had my belayer be forced to basically stand in the swamp and getting bombarded by kids throwing rocks into the water.

Did not find a solution for the crux.

Did not find a solution for the bouldery crux.

Pre-clipped 2nd bolt - which probably makes the route far easier, since I think that's the crux. Really like the technical climbing in the higher part of the route.

6 years later, first go. Holds get delicate near the top and finding a good hold to clip the final bolt is a final cruel challenge this route offers.

Warm-up (first pitch only). Not easy to read with quite a few friction-moves to be done above the last bolt where you probably don't want to fall.

Probably not the best route to start off with.

Great endurance-route along a vertical crack - though not really a crack-climb. Thrown off at second-to-last bolt because I did not see the high foot-placement. Shame.

Tendenziell leichter

Einstieg über links easy. Spannender ist es direkt zu klettern.

3rd go. Really nice moves, unexpected send. Felt very hard in the first go.

Wos is do 6a oida

In der zweiten Länge sehr brüchig... Tritt und Griff am Dach ausgebrochen

Nice long route but partly chossy.

nice powerful route

cool route with a nice rest in the middle

FA. Thsnks for showing me this amazing line Heiko 🙏

Wunderschöne Kante löst sich so schön auf

Very wet. Water flows down the hardest parts of the route

Soft!

2nd go

#2ndgo

Abstieg

Surprised by the second crux

Not so hard when you can find and reach the crimps on the top.