Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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9a+ | |||||||||
9a+ | Companion of Change | 25m | Ginzling | Nov 2015 | |||||
9a+ | Open Air | 25m | Wilder Kaiser | Mon 17th Nov 2008 | |||||
9a+ | Companion of Change | 25m | Ginzling | Thu 1st Jun 2017 | |||||
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9a+ | Clash of the Titans - with Miguel Casar | Nassereith | Sat 17th Jun 2017 | ||||||
9a+ | FA Open Air | 25m | Wilder Kaiser | 1996 | |||||
FFA.
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9a 9a+ | ★★ Neuron | Achleiten | ★★ Very Good | Sun 22nd Nov 2020 | |||||
2nd Ascent after Roland Hemetzberger. shares the crux of 'The Void' but climbs a harder start into it. Since you have such an amazing knee bar in the middle it doesn't make it much harder though, in my opinion.
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9a+ ~9b | Clash of the Titans | Nassereith | Mon 3rd Oct 2022 | ||||||
Video: https://youtu.be/ukm8wVEAs5o?si=gF_TZ82JSM3Cd6rD
It’s been more than five years since I first tried the route “Clash of the Titans” back home in Tirol which was first climbed by Alex Megos in 2017. Alex graded it 9a+ back then but to me it always felt substantially harder than that. I’ve done quite a few 9a+ and also 9bs but none of them took as much effort as this route. However, after I finally sent rather quickly last year I wasn’t sure anymore if it really deserves an upgrade making me hesitant to publish the ascent and have a clear opinion on the grade. After all, the route doesn’t fit my preferred style, which is crimping, but there are quite a few open handholds on this one, which gave me a hard time. Earlier this year, the opportunity came up to go back together with Stefano Ghisolfi who checked out the route as well and gave his opinion. Check out the video on my YT channel to find out more.
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9a+ | ★★ Qui | 30m | Geisterschmiedwand | Mon 2nd Oct 2023 | |||||
So cool to finally send this one, such a legendary route (FA in 1996 by Stefan Fürst)
Last year one hold in the crux would just never dry up but this season it was finally all dry and I was able to do it in my 2nd try (this year).
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9a | |||||||||
9a | ★★ Hades | 20m | Nassereith | ★★ Very Good | Sun 30th May 2010 | ||||
1 day in this year! what the hell is going on
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8c+ 9a | Kein Licht, kein Schatten - with Jakob Schubert | 15m | Elefantenwand | Oct 2016 | |||||
9a | Kraftplatzl | Berglsteiner See | Oct 2016 | ||||||
2.Ascent
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9a | ★★ Hades | 20m | Nassereith | Mon 1st Sep 2014 | |||||
9a | ★★ Fugu | 25m | Wilder Kaiser | Sun 20th Sep 2009 | |||||
9a | ★★★ Black Power | 25m | Wilder Kaiser | Sat 12th Jul 2008 | |||||
9a | Mongo | 20m | Wilder Kaiser | Wed 15th Nov 2017 | |||||
9a | ★★★ Weiße Rose | 25m | Wilder Kaiser | Sat 13th Sep 2008 | |||||
9a | ★★ Hades | 20m | Nassereith | Sun 23rd Aug 2009 | |||||
9a | ★★★ Weiße Rose | 25m | Wilder Kaiser | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 28th Apr 2020 | ||||
3rd Ascent. Opened by Alex Huber in 1994 (when I was 3 years old). Psyched to climb such a fantastic and legendary route!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KskvEEi-m9s&t=17s
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9a | ★★★ Walk the Line | 22m | Monkey Island | ★★★ Classic | Fri 1st May 2020 | ||||
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9a | FA ★★★ Weiße Rose | 25m | Wilder Kaiser | 1994 | |||||
FFA.
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9a | ★★ Hades | 20m | Nassereith | Sep 2020 | |||||
#2ndgo, maybe 8c+
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9a | ★★ Fugu | 25m | Wilder Kaiser | ★★ Very Good | Fri 9th Oct 2020 | ||||
3rd ascent of this cool line in the upper sector. Took me 4 tries to send it. Thanks for the good times Guido!
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9a | ★★ The Void | 35m | Achleiten | ★★ Very Good | Sun 22nd Nov 2020 | ||||
Really struggled with the crux move at the top at first but with good skin it went down first try today. Really hard to grade since it's mostly about this one single move, could be 9a could be easier for someone who loves pockets I don't know. 2nd Ascent after Roli I think..
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9a | ★★★ Sprengstoff | 18m | Walgau | Mon 30th Nov 2020 | |||||
FA
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9a | ★★★ Sprengstoff | 18m | Walgau | Apr 2021 | |||||
9a | Monkey-Line | 20m | Monkey Island | Jun 2021 | |||||
9a | ★★★ Sprengstoff | 18m | Walgau | ★★★ Classic | Wed 9th Mar 2022 | ||||
4th ascent, 2nd try. Such an amazing route and a great day with Adam and Babsy 💪🏻
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11 | |||||||||
11 | Big Hammer | 25m | Pinswang | Thu 4th Jan 2018 | |||||
Sehr sehr leicht und wohl 8c+
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9a 11 | Big Hammer | 25m | Pinswang | Sat 1st Nov 2014 | |||||
8A+ | |||||||||
8A+ | ★★★ Sundance sit | Ginzling | Fri 23rd Jul 2010 | ||||||
8c+/9a | |||||||||
9a 8c+/9a | ★★★ Mordor | 20m | Niederthai | ★★★ Classic | Mon 1st Jun 2009 | ||||
yessa! 2 days, 5th go
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8c+ to 9a | |||||||||
9a 8c+ to 9a | Grantiger Bauer | Saustein | Oct 2015 | ||||||
8c+/9a | |||||||||
9a 8c+/9a | ★★★ Mordor | 20m | Niederthai | 2007 | |||||
8c+ 8c+/9a | Instructor | 45m | Kalkofen | Mon 11th May 2020 | |||||
Second ascent after Jacopo Larcher
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8c+ 8c+/9a | ★★★ Mordor | 20m | Niederthai | Sep 2021 | |||||
8c+ | |||||||||
8c+ | ★★★ Brandy Tarte | 10m | Niederthai | ★★★ Classic | Sun 23rd May 2010 | ||||
8c/+ 13 amazing moves! 3rd Go
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8c+ | ★★★ Das Erbe der Väter | 30m | Wilder Kaiser | ★★★ Classic | Sun 27th Jun 2010 | ||||
Amazing line! 2nd Go this year, 3rd in total...
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8c+ | ★★★ One night stand | 10m | Niederthai | ★★★ Classic | Sat 2nd Oct 2010 | ||||
my first FA! not sure about the grade, but definitely 8c+... chipped but fun to climb!
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8c+ | ★★ Fonax | 20m | Nassereith | ★★ Very Good | Mon 13th Jun 2011 | ||||
2nd Go this year, 3rd in total...
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8c+ | ★★★ The Source | 25m | Zillergrund | ★★★ Classic | Thu 26th May 2011 | ||||
3rd Go this year... what a route!!!! 3rd Ascent
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8c+ | ★★★ Dolby Surround | 18m | Breitlahner | ★★★ Classic | Sun 14th Jun 2009 | ||||
YES! SA but FA after a hold broke, now 8c+/9a in my opinion, excited for other opinions though! One of the hardest and best in Zillertal! Thx Tom...VIDEO: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=da9nZG-d2AU
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8c+ | ★★★ Ganesha - with Jakob Schubert | Elefantenwand | Oct 2016 | ||||||
8c+ | ★ Juturna | 25m | Nassereith | ★ Good | Tue 10th Oct 2017 | ||||
8c+ | Dirty Harry's Brother (Harry's Dirty Brother) | 30m | Walgau | Fri 1st Jan 2016 | |||||
8c+ | ★★★ Synergieeffekt - with Michael Piccolruaz | Scheabichl | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 10th Nov 2018 | |||||
A fantastic line with perfect compression climbing and amazing holds.
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8c+ | Body Building | 35m | Walgau | Mon 1st Oct 2007 | |||||
8c+ | Nostalgischer Bastard | Prutz | Sat 1st Nov 2014 | ||||||
8c+ | Wagnis Plus | 47m | Geisterschmiedwand | Tue 30th Sep 2008 | |||||
8c 8c+ | ★★★ Lichtjahre | 25m | Wilder Kaiser | Sun 14th Sep 2008 | |||||
8c+ | ★★★ Gambit | 35m | Wilder Kaiser | Sat 14th Jun 2008 | |||||
8c+ | ★★★ Das Erbe der Väter (Das Erbe der Vater) | 30m | Wilder Kaiser | Sat 9th Aug 2008 | |||||
8c+ | Reality Check | 30m | Wilder Kaiser | Sun 6th Jul 2008 | |||||
8c+ | ★★★ The Source | 25m | Zillergrund | Thu 22nd Jul 2010 | |||||
8c+ | ★★ Fonax | 20m | Nassereith | Sun 23rd Aug 2009 | |||||
8c+ | ★ Juturna | 25m | Nassereith | ★ Good | Sat 20th Oct 2018 | ||||
8c+ | Unleashed | Kalkofen | Sun 10th May 2020 | ||||||
8c+ | ★★★ Gambit | 35m | Wilder Kaiser | ★★★ Classic | Sun 17th May 2020 | ||||
Such a good one! 3rd Go.
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8c+ | ★★★ Road to the Source | Zillergrund | ★★★ Classic | Thu 21st May 2020 | |||||
Alfons grabbed the 2nd ascent and I shortly followed with the 3rd. Awesome line!
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8c 8c+ | Body Building | 35m | Walgau | Sun 5th Jul 2020 | |||||
8c+ | ★★ Fonax | 20m | Nassereith | Sep 2020 | |||||
5th try, maybe 8c+/9a
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8c+ | ★★★ Lichtjahre | 25m | Wilder Kaiser | Sep 2020 | |||||
3rd try, maybe 8c+/9a
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8c+ | ★★★ The Source | 25m | Zillergrund | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 10th May 2020 | ||||
What a line, what a climb!! Wanted to give it a good flash burn but failed on the jump. Checked the rest out, fell on the jump again on my 2nd go, and then did it 3rd go. was close on falling on the final slab though. not that easy...
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8c+ | ★★★ Ganesha | Elefantenwand | ★★★ Classic | Thu 11th Jun 2020 | |||||
Interesting route... you gotta go from 0-100% instantly on this one. Really easy first few meters, then straight three really hard and powerful moves, followed by an ok section to a good rest. Then a few more meters to the anchor. Happy it went down on the last try of the day! Double send with Fonsl!
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8c+ | ★★★ Synergieeffekt | Scheabichl | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 27th Jul 2019 | |||||
Such a good route. Pretty cool moves on amazing holds, none of them even just little sharp. Tried it for two days with different beta, then found the right beta for me today and managed to get an ascent of this beauty two tries after. Syked!
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8c+ | ★★★ Lichtjahre | 25m | Wilder Kaiser | ★★★ Classic | Sat 7th Nov 2020 | ||||
What an amazing route! And what an amazing way to climb it.
I got to the crag knowing that it would be too hot to try Fugu again so the plan was to try Lichtjahre as my backup project. On the first try bouldering up trying to get the moves dialed I felt awful. My skin hurt already and I felt week. Nevertheless, I decided to give it a send go next try. Unfortunately, my foot slipped on one of the harder moves, but I started immediately again from a few moves lower and could top it from there. That really surprised me but also gave me a lot of confidence that I could actually send it. However I didn Perfect execution, the perfect moment!! One of those moments I will never forget and that gives me a huge motivation boost! Simply amazing! |
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8c+ | ★★★ Tunnelblick | 30m | Achleiten | ★★★ Classic | Sun 8th Nov 2020 | ||||
2nd Go, might be on the soft side. What a line though!!
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8c+ | ★★★ Mantra | Achleiten | ★★★ Classic | Sat 7th Nov 2020 | |||||
I think this was the first ascent after a big hold broke, it‘s an amazing power endurance route and now even more so. Think it is quite a bit harder now, maybe 8c/8c+ before and harder 8c+ now. Loved this climb!!
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8c+ | ★★★ Tunnelblick | 30m | Achleiten | ★★★ Classic | Wed 18th Nov 2020 | ||||
Great route! Spicy boulder at the top, but the crux for me was the lower boulder. Guess my little change in beta made the upper boulder a bit easier. Perfect autumn days right now. Please let us have a few more!
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8b 8c+ | ★★ Orca | 25m | Wilder Kaiser | ★★ Very Good | Mon 2nd Nov 2020 | ||||
Originally the route was graded 8c+ by first ascentionist Alex Huber but the right hand hold he used on the crux move is basically gone and Adam Ondra found a new beta using a left hand tiny crimp to do the second ascent. I found a way better solution using a good side pull just left of Adam‘s crimp which lets me go directly to the finishing jug. Since this route is pretty much easy except this only move, the whole thing is much easier with my beta now, probably around 8b 😅
It climbs very nicely this way though so I definitely recommend it to people (>170cm) 😉
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8c+ | Keep it movin' even if the world stops (Keep it movin´ even if the world stops) | 25m | Zillergrund | Thu 22nd Jul 2010 | |||||
8c+ | Quelque chose de pas important | 20m | Gschlössl | Sun 3rd May 2009 | |||||
8c+ | Love 2.1 | 20m | Ewige Jagdgründe | Sun 3rd Aug 2014 | |||||
8c+ | ★ Juturna | 25m | Nassereith | Sat 19th Dec 2020 | |||||
8c+ | ★★★ The Source | 25m | Zillergrund | Nov 2011 | |||||
8c+ | Love 2.1 | 20m | Ewige Jagdgründe | 2011 | |||||
8c+ | ★★★ Tunnelblick | 30m | Achleiten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 22nd Nov 2020 | ||||
Hell yesss!! king line, 10 tries, soooo happy!!
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8c+ | Don Pedro | 10m | Niederthai | Mon 10th Aug 2020 | |||||
8c+ | ★★★ Synergieeffekt | Scheabichl | Fri 21st Oct 2022 | ||||||
8c+ | ★★★ Tanz der Zeit | Secret Crag | ★★ Very Good | Wed 4th Oct 2023 | |||||
FA. Thsnks for showing me this amazing line Heiko 🙏
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8c to 8c+ | |||||||||
8c 8c to 8c+ | ★★★ Resistance (Least Resistance) | 30m | Wilder Kaiser | ★★★ Classic | Sat 5th Jul 2008 | ||||
super nice
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8c/c+ | |||||||||
8c 8c/c+ | Helel Ben Schachar | 30m | Kalkofen | Thu 1st Jan 2015 | |||||
8c | FA Warme Dusche | 45m | Wilder Kaiser | Wed 15th Jul 2020 | |||||
8c to 8c+ | |||||||||
8c 8c to 8c+ | ★★★ Resistance | 30m | Wilder Kaiser | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 7th Nov 2019 | ||||
Great route! Burly intro Boulder into powerful resistance climbing. Fell so stupidly on one of the last harder moves on my second go. And when we got back three days after, the boulder was quite wet. But I somhow made it work
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11- | |||||||||
11- | Pusher | Walgau | Sun 1st Jan 2017 | ||||||
11- | ★★ Il piccolo Orso | 40m | Sparchen | Sat 16th Aug 2008 | |||||
11- | FA Pusher | Walgau | 1992 | ||||||
FFA.
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8c | |||||||||
8c | ★★★ Waldläufer | 20m | Niederthai | ★★★ Classic | Sat 2nd Oct 2010 | ||||
8c | ★★★ In memo Reini | 15m | Niederthai | ★★★ Classic | Fri 18th Jul 2008 | ||||
Finally
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8c | ★★★ Gondor | 20m | Niederthai | ★★ Very Good | Thu 3rd Jul 2008 | ||||
one day! fuckin good shape now
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8c | ★ Athene | 20m | Nassereith | ★ Good | Mon 13th Jun 2011 | ||||
2nd Ascent
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8c | ★★★ Tao | Piburger See | ★★★ Classic | Thu 21st Apr 2011 | |||||
8c | ★★ Love 2.0 | 20m | Ewige Jagdgründe | ★★ Very Good | Tue 22nd Mar 2011 | ||||
2nd Go this year... wet starting hold and shit conditions...numb fingers=painful!
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8c | ★★ Morpheus | 15m | Nassereith | ★★ Very Good | Sun 12th Apr 2009 | ||||
3rd Go
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8c | ★★★ Passport 2 Honesty | 20m | Niederthai | ★★★ Classic | Sat 14th Oct 2017 | ||||
8c | ★★★ Waldläufer | 20m | Niederthai | Fri 1st Jan 2016 | |||||
ohne Kunstgriff
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8b 8c | ★★★ Nobody is perfect | Walgau | Thu 1st Jan 2015 | ||||||
8c | Erntezeit | Kalkofen | Sat 1st Jan 2011 | ||||||
8c | Standhaft | Kalkofen | Fri 1st Jan 2016 | ||||||
8c | ★★★ der schwarze Schwan | 20m | Armelen | ★★ Very Good | Wed 14th Jan 2015 | ||||
8c | Game over | 20m | Hahntennjoch | Mon 1st Jun 2015 |