Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Mon 9th Oct 2023 - The Dark Side | |||||||
5.10b/c ~5.10d | ★★ Dagobah - with Nathan Marculis | ★ Good | |||||
It is fun climbing but the reachy crux probably goes more at 10d/11a instead of the guidebooks grading of 10b/c. And I have long long arms.
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5.11b | ★★ Chewbakaka - with Nathan Marculis | 8 | ★ Good | ||||
Resend, good pumpy warmup today, fun sequence
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5.10b | ★ Rim Job - with Nathan Marculis | 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Warmup route for today and got the redpoint after flailing on this a long time ago. Fun climbing but nasty hole.
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5.12b | ★★ The Dark Side is Sændy — 2 attempts - with Nathan Marculis | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Spent the first attempt today figuring out the crux sequence after failing and having to aid climb it a few years ago. The crux isn't super difficult once you know what to do. The best part of this route is climbing the 11a to get to the extension.
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5.11d | Encased in Carbonite - with Nathan Marculis | 6 | Average | ||||
Tried the old nemesis again after many years. kinda remembered the sequence and got the redpoint while hanging draws. Unfortunately this route is thoroughly unenjoyable climbing, but its an ambitious line.
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5.11c | ★★★ These Aren’t The Holds You’re Looking For - with Nathan Marculis | ★★★ Classic | |||||
A proud onsight for me. A technical vert climb which I love. Some pure rock climbing movement on this one.
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Sat 16th Sep 2023 - Frejya / Via Ferrata | |||||||
5.11- |
★★★ Better Together
- with
Nathan Marculis
6
5.10+
33m
lead by
Mitchell Canham
Near the top there are 2 bolt lines, use the ones on the right. Fun climbing on huge holds at the beginning leads into a spicy slab finish.
7
5.11-
38m
lead by
Mitchell Canham
This pitch is the reason to climb this route. Back clean the 1st draw after clipping the 2nd draw. The crux is pulling through the first 4 moves steep wall on the sharpest rock you may ever touch. Awesome varied climbing on various different types of Rockies limestone. Fight the pump and rope drag for the send. There was a very loose death block about 4 or 5 bolts up that would fall very close to the belayer. It may fall off by itself soon.
9
5.6
30m
lead by
Mitchell Canham
Guidebook states 5.6 but it felt much easier than that, perhaps 5.4 or 5.5. | 320m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fun climb on a perfect late summer day. Well bolted route.
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Sun 6th Aug 2023 - The Dark Side | |||||||
5.10b/c | ★★ Dagobah - with Lady Moon | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Bring your brushes! Needs some TLC to clean up more. Try not to fall between bolt 2/3.
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5.11b/c | ★★★ Jedi Master | 9 | |||||
Trouble with bolt six and seven.
At bolt six, need to climb till at least shoulder height with the bolt, so from bucket go with a right side pull up high, then gaston with left hand. Bump hand over to ledge and then clip.
For bolt seven, climb up left of the bolt till you get to the ledge and then clip. |
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5.11a | ★★ Fear is the Dark Side | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Really enjoy this route after the first three bolts. Really tenuous sequence on the laybacks - probably better to clip after transitioning to the left.
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Thu 6th Jul 2023 - Little Russia | |||||||
5.13a | ★★ Pull Hard - with Carleigh Burns | 26m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Got all the moves, many sits. Couldn't figure out how to make the knee-bar rest work for me (without a pad).
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5.9 | ★ Davidson Highway - with Carleigh Burns | 25m, 8 | Crap | ||||
Don't bother
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5.10c ~5.10d | ★★ Diesel - with Carleigh Burns | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Good climb, stiff for the grade though
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5.12b/c | ★★★ Mayoraz - with Carleigh Burns | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Great climbing, had to take a sit before the rest. Was mega pumped!
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Wed 5th Jul 2023 - Little Russia | |||||||
5.12c | Le Dièdre de Mckinny - with Carleigh Burns | 20m, 8 | Average | ||||
Couldn't figure out a way to do the crux without shredding my fingies
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5.12b | ★★★ Chidambaram - with Carleigh Burns | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Pumpy steep climbing with big moves. Great fun!
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Tue 4th Jul 2023 - The Dark Side | |||||||
5.10b | ★ Rim Job - with Lady Moon | 5 | Average | ||||
Bolting is a little bolder than most routes at Dark Side.
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Sat 22nd Apr 2023 - Peskett Canyon Ice | |||||||
M4 | Cherry Poppins - with Mike Markov | ||||||
Fully coated in 1cm verglas. Challenging conditions
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M4 | Safe Space - with Mike Markov | ||||||
Fully coated in 1cm verglas. Challenging conditions
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Sat 22nd Apr 2023 - Frejya / Via Ferrata | |||||||
E | ★★★ From Nordegg With Love - with Mike Markov | 250m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
First ever via ferrata, was more fun than expected. More physical and exposed than it looks from the ground.
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Mon 3rd Oct 2022 - Little Russia | |||||||
5.13c | ★★★ Big Luc | 27m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Getting really close! New high point and one hang no rest. One hold away from the rest. Not sure if I will get another chance this season. But I really enjoyed this crimp and power test piece.
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Tue 27th Sep 2022 - Little Russia | |||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Blaising Hot Blais | 32m, 16 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
lucky to get to jump on this new pumpfest at LR while Konstantin himself was on the fixed line taking photos. It def helped that he pointed out a key crimp to me. really like this big boy line.
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Sun 25th Sep 2022 - Little Russia | |||||||
5.13c | ★★★ Big Luc | 27m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Second weekend on the proj. Conditions are getting better. Good progress this weekend. I love the drop knee on the crux and then the small crimps on the face. Will it go this season before the walls freeze? I love the process.
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Mon 12th Sep 2022 - Little Russia | |||||||
5.13c | ★★★ Big Luc | 27m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Finally got around to the last project of the season. First try got to put the draws up. Second try got to refine some beta. Second day conditions were not great and all the slopey crimps felt super hard. Had to take the draws down. Winter is coming.
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Mon 12th Sep 2022 - Frejya / Via Ferrata | |||||||
E | ★★★ From Nordegg With Love - with Vincent Pearson | 250m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
A great experience, if you can take your time, do.
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Sat 10th Sep 2022 - Little Russia | |||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Chidambaram - with Vincent Pearson | 20m, 6 | |||||
First outdoor 12 attempt, 3rd draw
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Sat 10th Sep 2022 - Mt. Stelfox | |||||||
B | ★★★ The Fox - with Vincent Pearson | 180m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
A nice time.
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Tue 6th Sep 2022 - Little Russia | |||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Janus - with dan | 30m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
This climb is stellar. Relentless creek polished limestone start to good crimp sequences further up. Stoked I ticked it
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Mon 5th Sep 2022 - Little Russia | |||||||
5.11d | ★★ Zerb Zerb | 27m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
slippery and tricky start to an easy finish with sharp holds at the end.
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Sun 4th Sep 2022 - Little Russia | |||||||
5.13b | ★★★ From Calgary with Love | 18m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Total 6 tries, first try of the day got through the cux and one hanged it. Managed to put it together next try. Very fun route with an early overhang crux and section leading to a small edges at the face to finish. Belayed by Dan
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Mon 29th Aug 2022 - Little Russia | |||||||
5.13b | ★★★ From Calgary with Love | 18m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
New little project. Got all the moves and set the draws up first try. second try linked a couple of sections. Keen to get on it again before it gets too cold.
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Sat 20th Aug 2022 - Little Russia | |||||||
5.13b | ★★★ Pull Harder - with Martin Schon, Layla Amer Ali | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
very physical climb. very powerful technical start to a good rest. went through the top really well this time. doing the top section 4 times after my fall last week really paid off. thanks for the belay Layla. Great to have the whole crew supporting there with Nick taking pro shots. Went down first try today, third session.
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Sat 30th Jul 2022 - Little Russia | |||||||
5.12a | ★★ Alberta Tango | 12m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Second try, missed many holds first try!
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5.12a | ★★ Petit Breton | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
nice one. tricky!
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Sun 24th Jul 2022 - Little Russia | |||||||
5.13a | ★★ Pull Hard (Pull Harder) | 26m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
So there are two routes here. Pull Hard 13a and Pull Harder 13b. I got the 13a this weekend and will be back to try the 13b next weekend. Powerful climbing on decent holds but on a sustained 30+ degree wall. Really enjoyed working this one with Layla Amer Ali.
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Mon 18th Jul 2022 - The Dark Side | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Wet Sith | 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5th bolt is loose but didn’t have a wrench/gerber. It would be huge if someone tightens it.
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5.8 | ★★ Take That Cael | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Nice and pumpy. Bomber gear spots throughout the whole route.
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5.8 | ★ Dirty Nuts | 2 | ★ Good | ||||
2 bolts at the start to get you past the dirt without decking out. Gear for remainder of climb after second bolt. Pretty dirty rock at the top so try to clean a bit of it off when you’re up there.
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Fri 1st Jul 2022 - Little Russia | |||||||
5.11b | ★★ Sketchy Foks - with vincent pearson | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
It was nice
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Sat 11th Jun 2022 - The Dark Side | |||||||
5.10b 5.10a | ★ Ewok Skywalk | Average | |||||
A fairly contrived start traversing away from the crack in the corner. Felt like 10b or even 10c however after the ledge was easy 5.9. Would have made more sense to share the start with "The Empire Strikes Jen" to keep the grade consistent at 5.9.
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5.11a | ★★ Fear is the Dark Side | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Really nice
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5.10d | ★ Who's Been Sleeping in my Tauntaun? | 7 | ★ Good | ||||
An awkward crux through the roof
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5.11b | ★★ Chewbakaka | 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really enjoyed this. Fun laybacking and had to fight to get through the crux at the top. Fun
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Sun 29th May 2022 - Little Russia | |||||||
5.13a | ★★ Pull Hard (Pull Harder) | 26m, 11 | ★ Good | ||||
First time on a 13, not my style. Had no power left today as this was last route of the day.
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5.13a | ★★ Pull Hard (Pull Harder) | 26m, 11 | ★ Good | ||||
Dialed the beta up to the first crux. No power to do the huge first crux throw.
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5.12b | ★★★ Chidambaram | 20m, 6 | |||||
Went bolt to bolt to remember the moves after not getting on it at all last year
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5.12b | ★★★ Chidambaram | 20m, 6 | |||||
Got the send, first rockies 12b. Good hard battle to get the last clip before the anchor, couldnt find the best clipping position and dropped the rope twice as I was pumped out of my mind. Finally clipped it and powered to the anchors. Not pretty but it went.
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5.11d | ★★ Zerb Zerb | 27m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Immediately after finally sending Chidam I got the onsight of this route. Definitely my style, was able to milk all the rests and it felt pretty cruisy. Mid route kneebar can be no hands if you really push with your foot or are named Ondra.
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5.9 | ★★ Green Mojito | 22m, 8 | |||||
Warmup
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Mon 16th May 2022 - Little Russia | |||||||
5.13b 5.13a | ★★ Pull Hard (Pull Harder) | 26m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
First session. Beautiful bouldery steep! All the things I love. Can’t wait to get back on it. Got all the moves. Beta needs ironing out and hopefully we will be on the way.
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Mon 25th Apr 2022 - Little Russia | |||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Chidambaram | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Missed the onsight. Completely lost feelings in all the left fingers. Welcome to Canada spring Climbing. Beautiful big moves. All holds are great. Great session with Layla and Per.
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Sat 23rd Apr 2022 - Little Russia | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Green Mojito | 22m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
pretty much at grade!! Plenty of snow in the canyon so you're already up by 1-2m. Sun was out on the backwall so that was nice. Had fun and a good warm up route.
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5.9 | ★ Davidson Highway | 25m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
first climb ever in the canadian rockies. still quite snowy in the canyon on the date of this tick. but very climbable. one or two committing moves to solid hand holds at the crux(which weren't so obvious at first)
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Mon 13th Sep 2021 - The Dark Side | |||||||
5.11c | The Dark Lord | ||||||
Moves hard off the ground. Stick clipped 2nd bolt to protect ground fall. Committing moves to get the 5th bolt when moving off the rest ledge. After that got to the 8th? Bolt in the middle of the bulge and missed the small edge. Got it after a couple throws and sorting out the foot beta with a sloper right and pocket left for feet. Ending slab section was pretty delicate and will be hard finish on redpoint attempt.
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5.11c | ★★ General Grievous | ||||||
Sent! Still needed to down climb and rest after clipping 4th but sent after that.
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5.11c | ★★ General Grievous | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Put up the draws to fifth hangar and ticked some holds for redpoint attempt.
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Fri 9th Jul 2021 - Little Russia | |||||||
5.12a 5.12a/b | Rusalka | 19m, 9 | Don't Bother | ||||
Atrocious rock quality. Don't bother
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Thu 8th Jul 2021 - Little Russia | |||||||
5.11d | Little Luc | 22m, 13 | Don't Bother | ||||
Terrible rock quality - sharp, prickly and friable.
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Sun 27th Jun 2021 - The Dark Side | |||||||
5.11d | ★★ Hospitality | 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Got shut down at the roof. Just could not figure out how to pull on that right facing sharp hold up there.
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5.10b 5.10c | ★★ Turkish Delight | ★★★ Classic | |||||
So much fun. What a great route. But, certainly a lot easier than 5.10c, probably more like b/a.
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5.11c | ★★ General Grievous | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Got a sketchy clip in on the third bolt and then rested for the traverse, but I donked up my beta. Need to remember the cross thru.
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Sun 23rd May 2021 - Little Russia | |||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Chidambaram | 20m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Thought I would jump on this to see how it felt. None of the moves in isolation are that difficult however the consistent 45 degree overhang is a real burner. Need to get climb more efficiently for sure to tick this one.
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5.11b 5.11a | ★ The Vern | 22m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
Powerful crux is a bit of a sandbag at 11a. Nice slab climbing.
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5.10b | ★★ Red Sonya | 22m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fun
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Sun 23rd May 2021 - The Dark Side | |||||||
5.11c | ★★ General Grievous | ||||||
Only to the third draw. Maybe a bit to eager for the start of the season. Need to do some fall training and get more comfortable working hard above the draw.
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5.10d | ★★ Boba Fett Arete | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Hidden gem for the area. Big holds support pulling over the arete. Save some gas for clipping the anchor.
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5.10b 5.10a | ★★ The Jedi's Apprentice | 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Little harder than Wet Sith.
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Sat 22nd May 2021 - The Dark Side | |||||||
5.11c | ★★ General Grievous | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Really nice climbing throughout, deserves the stars. Failed to onsight the traverse boulder problem however it went easily second burn.
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5.10d | ★★ Help Me Obi Wan | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Nice techy crux
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5.11b 5.11b/c | ★★★ Jedi Master | 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Went easily second burn. You can easily get lured into climbing the wrong way (as I did) on your onsight burn. It's nice to climb routes that don't have chalk on them
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5.9 | ★★ You're Looking in Alderan Places | ★ Good | |||||
Fun
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5.10a | ★★ Wet Sith | 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Super fun with some of the biggest jugs I have seen in a while!
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5.10b | ★★ A New Hope | 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A bit harder than Wet Sith. Nice route with interesting movements.
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Sat 17th Apr 2021 - Frejya / Via Ferrata | |||||||
5.9 |
★★★ Starstruck
- with
Nathan Marculis
9
5.4
30m
10
5.7
30m
| 330m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nathan ran into a wall of ice while leading Pitch 9 and we were unable to continue to the top. Fun slabby climbing with good quality rock in most places.
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5.9 |
★★★ Starstruck
- with
Mitchell Canham
10
5.7
30m
| 330m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Wasn't able to climb the final pitch because the waterfall was raging!
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Sun 13th Sep 2020 - Little Russia | |||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Chidambaram | 20m, 6 | |||||
1 hanged it from 2nd last draw
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Sat 5th Sep 2020 - The Dark Side | |||||||
5.10d | ★★ Boba Fett Arete - with Mitchell Canham | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Very difficult to onsight, but once the beta is known it is pretty straightforward.
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Sat 18th Jul 2020 - The Dark Side | |||||||
5.10d | ★ Who's Been Sleeping in my Tauntaun? - with Nathan Marculis | 7 | ★ Good | ||||
4 star climbing through 1 star rock. If you can get over the holds through the roof being knuckle deep in mud and rat poop, the climb itself is amazing. 3 or 4 bolts of sustained steep climbing through jugs of mud with great movement. Chalk is probably useless on this route.
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5.11b | ★★ A Disturbance in the Force - with Nathan Marculis | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Sent it
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5.11d | ★★ Kyber Crystal - with Nathan Marculis | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Working the moves. 1-hanged the route on the onsight attempt.
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5.11d | ★★ Kyber Crystal - with Nathan Marculis | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Messed up one of the crux sequences and went flying.
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5.11d | ★★ Kyber Crystal - with Nathan Marculis | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Climb up a thin slab start through to 3 distinct cruxes broken up by very good rests.
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5.10c | ★★ Using the Force - with Nathan Marculis | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Good holds the whole way up with fun movement. You could clip the anchors from down low if you are tall enough and skip finding the hidden pocket at the top... but that's no fun.
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5.11b | ★★ A Disturbance in the Force - with Nathan Marculis | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Questionable rock at the beginning. Very powerful sequence through the roof is tough to figure out. Fun and relatively easy finish on the face about the roof, probably the best part of the route.
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Sat 11th Jul 2020 - Little Russia | |||||||
5.12a | ★★ Alberta Tango - with Nathan Marculis | 12m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Worked through the moves.
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5.12a | ★★ Alberta Tango - with Nathan Marculis | 12m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Climbed really well through the crx.
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5.11b | ★★ Son of a Mitch - with Nathan Marculis | 12m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fun moves on good holds. Tough to onsight. Worked out the moves and sent it second try.
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5.11c | ★★ Merricka - with Nathan Marculis | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Pulled a hold off at the last bolt after the crux and whipped.
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5.11c | ★★ Merricka - with Nathan Marculis | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Pulled another small hold off about half way up.
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5.11c | ★★ Merricka - with Nathan Marculis | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Messed up the beta on the red point crux sequence after climbing very efficiently.
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Sat 4th Jul 2020 - Little Russia | |||||||
5.11b | ★★ Son of a Mitch | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Took a couple of goes to get this one. Had only been opened the day before and a few key holds are quite hidden. Quality climbing
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5.11c | ★★ Davy Jones Locker | 26m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
2nd burn. Beautiful climbing on a steep flake with a powerful exit followed by engaging slab to the anchors. Really enjoyed this one as well as a new 11b which was opened the day before and I was fortunate enough to be the 4th to climb it. Called 'Son of a Mitch' not yet up on theCrag. Also really fun. Look forward to going back to this place.
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Sat 20th Jun 2020 - Little Russia | |||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Chidambaram - with Nathan Marculis, Chris Heggerud | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Took huge whip trying to clip the last bolt
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5.11c | ★★ Merricka - with Nathan Marculis, Chris Heggerud | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Pumped out
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5.11b | BaBach - with Nathan Marculis, Chris Heggerud | 9m, 6 | Average | ||||
Easy slab start into awkward boulder problem. Balance-y but easy finish
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5.11a | ★★ Hot Blais - with Nathan Marculis, Chris Heggerud | 27m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Amazing moves on great holds the whole way
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Sat 13th Jun 2020 - The Dark Side | |||||||
5.11b | ★★ Chewbakaka - with D-Lit | 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tried this one again but got shut down on the last move of the crux.
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5.10a | ★★ The Jedi's Apprentice - with D-Lit | 8 | ★ Good | ||||
Climbed this on top rope because it started raining. Lots of quality moves.
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5.10d | ★★ Yoda's Yodel - with D-Lit | 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Lots of fun moves on this one, including a good undercling. Pull hard on good holds through the roof.
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5.8 | ★★ Is That a Lightsabre in Your Pocket? - with D-Lit | 16m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Repeated this as a warm up.
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