Nodes in Castle Mountain

This is the buttress seen looking directly up from the Castle Mountain Fire Lookout.

Lookout Buttress forms the skyline of the lower tier of buttresses when viewed from the Trans-Canada driving west from Banff or east from Lake Louise.

The buttress is named for its location above the old fire lookout, and it's approached via the lookout hiking trail. The climb stays mostly to the right of the crest, on generally excellent rock.

1. Climb the short crack on the right side on the pinnacle in front of Bass Buttress, then move right and continue up the corner crack to the belay (20m, 5.6)

2. Head up the corner to a large belay ledge between the pinnacle and main wall (20m, 5.3)

3. Find the path of least resistance up the right side of the pinnacle to the summit (5m, 5.5)

Descend via 45m rap to ground

Start at the wide crack approx. 9m right of the regular start, continue up the chimney and traverse left at 15m up a steep ramp to a belay ledge below the corner Continue pitches 2 and 3 as per Kraut Pinnacle

A long day for most. Get ready for 10 hrs give or take a few depending on your speed.

Approach is via the Rockbound Lake Trail. Best reference is 'Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies' by Sean Dougherty. Trail to Eisenhower heads off left aroundf the spot where the trail finishes climbing and is heading to the lake.

You need to cut left (keep your eyes open for a climbers trail) maybe 2-3 hrs from the car (depending on your approach hike pace). Follow this up to a headwall which you'll bypass around to the left where you'll then find a right angling approach gully. Up this to goat Plateau.

Walk to the spine on the east side of Castle Mountain (the Dragon's Back). Most easily conquered by walking right around it (north side) and finding a 2 pitch approach gully to get you to the base of the first proper headwall of Eisenhower tower.

Up this (look for some bolts) for a rope length or so, and then traverse left to a scree bowl. Up the left of this (some trad, some anchors) for 3-4 pitches seeking the line of least resistance. The descent route is on your right hand side, is equipped, and descends into the scree bowl. There is sometimes permanent snow in here so be careful on the descent!