Ascents in Canada by Daphne

Clip 1 - right foot on rectangular super chalked hold, left foot on v notch, right hand window washer up to jug above crack.

right foot on obvious chalked hold, left foot either on rail or on weird looking ticked foot but good. Up with right hand, match, pull up right foot onto hand hold. Throw past first rail, go to next rail, crimp that faces the wrong way. catch it face on, throw up to horizontal slot and try to land left in the good jug. REST.

throw up to good chalked hold. heel hook left foot, grab undercling, CLIP FROM HERE. throw to sidepull, immediately throw to higher sidepull, move right foot to where heel hook is,left foot flag, throw to upper right sidepull.

twist left hip in, left foot up to highest point, right foot high heel hook, suck in core, controlled left hand up to highest point of pinch. PINCH IT. right foot switch to toe, left foot up, throw to crappy crimp. left foot out to the hold above the x'd out hold. throw out left to chalked hold. twist left hip in. throw to bottom right corner of square. right foot right under body on sloping foot hold, throw up to the pinch.

left hand up to unchalked jug. right hand into weird gap hold, left hand up to teeth hold, right foot onto stupid crimp, left heel hook to clip, throw to crack. right foot up to unticked foot. left foot up to box. left hand above, right hand pinch, then its all jugs.

Throw is hard

Whip at throw

Senddddddd

First try. Big moves.

After first bolt, go right, heel hook, need to grab onto mossy ledge and then other mossy ledge. clip 2nd bolt by reaching over the arete. Lean on arete after 2nd bolt, get right hand on the arete then grab sidepull above 3rd bolt, clip, high right foot to hand, rock on, reach out to a not great shelf. Just above for your left hand, there are a bunch of not great shelves but one has a really good divet. Figure out how to clip 4th bolt.

Fifth bolt, not sure how to get into the right position. left hand on pinch, right hand on the triangle, left foot on big hold, throw up to right above the fifth bolt to a really good sidepull then can crank your legs up. Then go up left to crack, some ok fingerlocks.

First three bolts linked together. Can't figure out crux from 4-5.

I actually hate this route so much. At crux, throw out right to the sidepull, then to the good jug, hit the undercling, throw out to the hueco, and then use the weird side foot chip, pull up and step into hueco. Ugh.

Stick clipped my way up. Pretty big moves to big holds.

I could figure out the crux crimp beta on the first try, but the second try was a s&#* show.

Need to move feet up higher for first crux. stay low for crimp crux.

Good session with 2 tries. I think I am getting the beta other than the throw... need to train that lockoff strength.

First session after sending Gertrude. Attempted twice. Gotta work on toe strength and lock off strength...

Finally!

The last pitch

Only did last two to get to the top of the apron

Simul

Did this clean 2x on TR. scary huge runout at the top, not the most secure until a long way up past the third bolt. Haven't fallen but wouldn't want to fall.

first crux at bolt 1 cross over - get right hand out on nubbin, right foot way out, on tiptoes jam left hand into crack, slowly lean and drag foot over and then jam right hand into crack as well.

second crux around bolt 3, left foot is in the crack and right foot is on a good ledge out right, bring right foot into nubbin by crack, layback hard, bring left foot up a step, grab shelf with right hand, then into jugs.

Tried all kinds of beta but my original left knee jam, left hand on intermediate, right foot up, bump left hand, left leg out to good ledge, right hand down onto intermediate, left hand out to "jug", find feet. Crux for me now is clipping the third bolt before making the move...

undercling squish green goo fun

Not gonna send any time soon

Still need to figure out the beta for the crux. Trying to go way left probably works but probably off route?

Figuring out best move through the roof