Routes in Howe Sound

Initially graded 5.14a but downgraded by Sonnie Trotter in 2023.

Dr. Hypoxia starts on Dr. Funkenstein before breaking out onto Road to Eleausis and then joins Apnea after that route’s crux.

A friendly route intended for beginners and those still developing their lead head. The climb begins on a large undercling and nicely cruises to a short well protected crux, followed with more easy 5th class climbing.

Fun climbing lower down, easier higher up.

Awesome technical moves on thin crimpers. Short crux in bottom section.

Fun boulder problem lower down and a definite crux mid pitch. Climbs really well.

Hard boulder problem near the top; some cranking on small and not-easy-to-spot holds!

This route can be climbed to the left and then back right between rthe 7th and 8th bolt, thereby avoiding the hard move

Start 'Adored' but branch off left after 8 bolts to merge with Charlie.

Easy start leads to a steeper technical headwall.

First crux is a polished roof near the bottom; the second is a thin face just below the chains. 5.9 to the mid station just below the first roof.

bouldery crux

Climb the thin face to the right of "Trojan Horse".

Climb fractured edges up the arete next to the tree.

Route starts off on the first 3 pitches of This Fortress Built By Nature, then continues up a further 5 pitches to the top.

Rap (70m rope) or walk off right.

Found above route 4, 10 bolts and chains

Chains

Chains

Slab to corner, chains

Tree Anchor

Follows crack, unknown Anchor setup

Anchors at top.

A great, long alpine climb up the West Lion. Considered a `top 50' route in the Vancouver Climbing guidebook. After crossing the loose scree below the North face, go up and around the toe of the NorthEast Buttress. Look for some sawed off branches just above a patch of trees to start the route.

We did it in 6 pitches with a 70m rope: p1: Start up a short, steep wall, then pass a tree with some old slings on it. Continue upwards over slabby terrain, eventually aiming for a short, steep handcrack. Belay above this on a tree with some old slings.

p2: From here, it was possible to climb all the way until the big talus ledge.

Scramble up from the top left corner of the ledge, and rope up below the next steep bit of rock.

p3: A fun, long pitch over easy terrain. Keep staying on the ridge as it narrows,

p4: As the ridge starts to steepen, climb up it for another 10 meters until a path leftwards through the bushes appears. Climb through bush for a rope length.

p5: Leave the bushes and climb an exposed ridge line, through a few chimneys with a lot of exposure. Belay at a large tree at the top of the ridge.

p6: Mostly scrambling. From the big tree, follow a trail to the summit cairn.

Up the Water Streak

Climbs left trending flake to a exposed traverse, then climbs up past large blocks. Walk off south or rappel using Vargas Girl anchors if using a 60m rope. A 70m rope will touch the ground if rappelling from the anchors of Garfield.

May have been climbed, needs updating if it has.