Pacific Ranges Guide

Summary:

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Seasonality

Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 50.586911, -124.288056

Summary:

All Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: 51.383681, -125.216314

description

The Waddington Range, a sub-range of the Coast Mountains of British Columbia, contains the highest peaks south of the border with Alaska. Mount Waddington itself, the range's namesake, towers over the surrounding terrain - but its neighbouring peaks are worth exploring on their own. Combatant, Tiedemann, Asperity, the Serras, Mount Munday and more are all worth trips in their own right, and still contain a large amount of untraveled terrain.

history

The range was first explored by the prolific Don and Phyllis Munday in the early days of the 20th century, where all access was via boat to the head of one of the nearby inlets, and by hiking inland for weeks under massive loads. The Mundays did much of the earliest ascents of peaks in the range, before passing the torch to notables such as Fred Beckey, Don Serl, Peter Croft and many more.

See Don Serl's comprehensive 2003 guidebook The Waddington Range for more history and information on the area.

Summary:

Lat / Long: 51.367991, -125.250838

summary

The highest peak of the Coast Range of BC, Mount Waddington hosts routes ranging from long glacial walkups all the way to highly technical testpieces not often repeated.

description

Mount Waddington, once known as Mystery Mountain, is the highest peak in the Coast Mountains of British Columbia, Canada. Although it is lower than Mount Fairweather and Mount Quincy Adams, which straddle the United States border between Alaska and British Columbia, Mount Waddington is the highest peak that lies entirely within British Columbia. It and the subrange which surround it, known as the Waddington Range, stands at the heart of the Pacific Ranges, a remote and extremely difficult set of mountains and river valleys. Source Wikipedia

approach

Either hike for a week or two up coastal bush-choked valleys from the inlets to the south or the inland plateaus, or take a helicopter. White Saddle Air flies out of Bluff Lake on the Cariboo Highway.

where to stay

Set up base camp either on Rainy Knob below the Bravo Glacier, or Combatant Col (for the northern routes) or the Epaulette or Buckler Glaciers (for the south).

history

Notable ascents

1936 South Face FA by Fritz Wiessner † and Bill House.
1942 South Face 2nd ascent by Helmut and Fred Beckey.
1977 South Face variation FA of route, 3rd ascent of south face by Jack Tackle and Kenneth Currens.
2012 Flavelle-Lane Route First solo ascent of the peak by Colin Haley.

Source Wikipedia

Summary:

Lat / Long: 51.397662, -125.237066

summary

Consisting of Combatant, Tiedemann and Asperity, these mountains host some of the most impressive technical lines in the range on their sunny south and icy north aspects.

description

Looking south across the Tiedemann Glacier to Mount Waddington, this group of peaks with their striking south buttresses provide a good contrast to the rounded bulk of Waddington. These buttresses, ridges and hidden faces hold impressive alpine rock climbs - but the seldom-seen north faces above the Radiant Glacier also holds a number of more wintry routes.

approach

Depends on the route.

Summary:

Lat / Long: 51.381821, -125.198866

summary

To the east of the trio of major peaks looking across the Tiedemann Glacier to Waddington are a set of further

description

The Serras and Stiletto Peak are granitic spires to the east of Mount Asperity to the north of the head of the Tiedemann Glacier. On their south flanks they boast massive granite ridges and faces, and while the northern routes are shorter they include everything from ice routes to more big alpine terrain.

approach

For the south, the routes are all accessed via the Tiedemann Glacier. The north sides of Serra 4 and 5 are accessed via the Radiant Glacier, while 1, 2 and 3 as well as Stiletto Peak can be approached on the bench of the Upper Tellot Glacier.

where to stay

Set up a base camp on one of the glaciers, or stay at the BCMC Plummer Hut near the base of Claw Peak.

Summary:

Lat / Long: 51.373308, -125.154761

description

Directly above the BCMC's Plummer Hut, this peak is often climbed as a warmup before getting on some of the larger routes in the range.

where to stay

The Plummer Hut rests directly below the West Ridge of Claw Peak, though you could also camp on any of the nearby glaciers.

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.978648, -123.304433

summary

A remote crag with some great climbs

description

A fun crag with a large range of climbs in a remote location with no cell service

approach

Going North on the 99, take a left at the Alicia Lake turn off. (just north of Squamish) Drive for about 5 minutes until you hit a Y intersection. Go left at this Y intersection onto Squamish Valley Road. Drive for about 28KM. The road will alternate between gravel and pavement. The turn off to the logging road will be on the right just before a bridge. There is a sign that says "Squamish 9 UP" at this turn off. The beginning of the logging road is very rough but eventually flattens out after about 50m. The crag is in the forest just after the first intersection which is also a large open area.

summary

Main wall

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.982242, -123.304320

description

A wall with some well bolted routes and fun climbs. Very mossy though.

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.914579, -123.161201

summary

The number one sport climbing area around Squamish. Routes in all grades, well bolted and with short access.

approach

Drive north on highway 99 from Vancouver. Just before kilometer 140 take a right up to the Check Canyon Recreation Area campsite to reach the main areas. There are additional crags further north, park at pull outs next to highway 99 to reach them.

where to stay

Free camping at the campsite.

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.907439, -123.156192

summary

This is the main area in Cheakamus Canyon with the highest density of climbing.

approach

Drive north on highway 99 from Vancouver. Just before kilometer 140 take a right up to the Check Canyon Recreation Area campsite to reach the main areas.

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 49.911516, -123.166946

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.935497, -123.155767

description

Right now there are 4 multi-pitch route

approach

It is possible to drive in a 4x4 around 2.4km on conroy forest road past the main parking lot on the sharp turn (right) around go straight into a clear to park. From there is just a 15/20min walk on a groomed hight flagged path intul the obvious huge talus field with a huge sign of the outpost. From there follow the cairns up and left for centurion up and right to Western Harlot and 100Zulu

history

Just started getting Develop last year 2013

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.942578, -123.165598

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.906203, -123.164917

description

Short overhanging crag that is visible from 99. Dry in light rain, except for climbs after Gong Show which are slab and not covered.

approach

There is a forest path directly across the highway from the Conroy Creek Forest Service Road parking lot. The path is just a few paces north on 99. There will be 2 thin fixed lines to help with a scramble up the rocks. Follow the forest trail for 10 minutes and arrive at the crag. Sport Temple will be on the left or continue right for Pleasure Dome. If you reach the no left turn sign off the highway, you have gone too far north.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.907685, -123.165046

approach

Same approach as Sport Temple. There is a forest path directly across the highway from the Conroy Creek Forest Service Road parking lot. The path is just a few paces north on 99. There will be 2 thin fixed lines to help with a scramble up the rocks. Follow the forest trail for 10 minutes and arrive at the crag. Sport Temple will be on the left or continue right for 5 minutes to get to Pleasure Dome. If you reach the no left turn sign off the highway, you have gone too far north.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.907606, -123.161961

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 49.924114, -123.167174

description

About a km north of Conroy Forest Road, route 99 winds down towards the Cheakamus river. This area climbs canyon walls on the east side of the river, below the road.

approach

Generally rappel in.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

summary

Uphill from Circus. Lots of 5.12s

Summary:

Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 49.785035, -123.132605

summary

A huge amount of world-class climbing of all types easily accessible from the town of Squamish.

description

Squamish has easily accessible world-class climbing of all types -- from run-out slab on the Apron, to single-pitch trad climbing with 5 minute approaches 5 minutes from town at Smoke Bluffs, to hard big-wall climbing on the Grand Wall, to all day expeditions up "The Chief", to sport of all types in "Cheakamus Canyon", to bouldering in the massive fields at the base.

As of summer 2015, Squamish Select by Marc Bourdon seems to be the most commonly used guidebook.

access issues

There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish.

approach

Vary from crag to crag; but often surprisingly short and easy for the amount and quality of climbing on offer.

where to stay

Lots of choices in the town of Squamish and around -- from fancy hotels through hostels, from nice provincial camp grounds through dirt-bagging in Cheakamus canyon.

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 49.647186, -123.209340

approach

When you drive north on highway 99 from Vancouver, Murrin Park is just before Squamish on your left. Park on the parking lot next to the lake and hike on well marked trails to the crags.

Summary:

Bouldering and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 49.659400, -123.166752

Summary:

Trad climbing, Rock climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.667989, -123.165776

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 49.668565, -123.163868

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.670997, -123.131998

summary

A collection of single and multi-pitch crags at the top of the Squamish Gondola.

approach

all crags are accessed by either riding the Gondola up to its top or driving around back on a rough FSR for approximately 9km from the highway and hiking for 1.3km to the gondola peak; 4x4 or high clearance AWD is mandatory for this road.

Gondola passes can be purchased here: "https://www.seatoskygondola.com/"

If you choose to drive around back, turn off the highway at the Mamquam FSR (Apron parking lot) reset your trip odometer here. At approximately 3.8 km take a right turn past a gate. at 5.3Km take a right turn on Shannon Creek Road. Follow this road until you come to a locked gate. Park here and continue walking the next 1.3 km to the gondola peak.

ethic

These areas are high traffic with tourists, please pack in what you pack out, including biological waste! Bathrooms are provided at the gondola Peak, about 15 min from Ultraviolet Cliff, and 30 from the Wrinkle Rock area.

Summary:

Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 49.669557, -123.156069

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 49.675000, -123.151690

Summary:

Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 49.687998, -123.138477

description

The Chief is the obvious large, complex, west-facing cliff clearly visible from the town of Squamish, BC.

approach

Varies depending on the section -- often quite short for the amount of climbing available, except in the cases of some of the back-side crags.

Summary:

Trad climbing, Rock climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.682883, -123.154398

access issues

All climbs on the Malamute must be treated as Rap in, Climb out. This is due to Canadian Nationals (CN) rail line right of way at the base of the cliff. There have been quite a few incidents involving Search and Rescue, and rather embarrassingly, each time CN has contacted to shut down the rail line while the rescue is underway.

ALL CLIMBS THAT START WITHIN 8 METERS OF THE TRACK ARE CLOSED.

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 49.707368, -123.138056

summary

Good cragging 5 minutes walk from downtown Squamish.

description

Smoke Bluffs are the obvious series of small cliffs just north-east of Squamish. They are in a municipal park created in cooperation between local climbers and the town of Squamish. The park is easy to get to -- 5 minutes walk from downtown Squamish, with good trails and easy approaches in the range of 1-20 minutes. They are, often, crowded on weekends. Many of the cliffs have easy top access for setting up top-ropes as well.

access issues

Some cliffs are on private land, and closed. Others are close to private homes -- please keep the noise level down near homes, and do not anchor off fences, hydro towers, or anything else that is similar.

approach

Park in the parking lot, and walk-in along the well-maintained and mapped trails to the various crags. 1-20 minutes.

Summary:

Sport climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 49.711692, -123.111085

Summary:

Sport climbing, Bouldering and Top roping

Lat / Long: 49.714861, -123.097884

summary

A set of crags with some nice overhang and crimps for some solid climbs.

approach

Turn right on the 99 towards the Apron parking lot and travel along the Mamquat FSR. Turn left at the obvious intersection and drive for 5 minutes. You'll see a boulder on the right (has a yellow sign sticking out of it), that is where you park. The bould is between the two crags.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.721461, -123.103840

summary

Good quality sport climbing on vertical or gently over-hanging stone. From spring to midsummer the mosquitoes can be a real problem at the base of the cliff. Be warned!

description

Crag is located in the hills behind the Smoke Bluffs. The rock contains an abundance of nice handholds, perfect for athletic routes. Enjoy the pump!

approach

From Highway 99, turn onto the Mamquam Forest Service Road (Forestry Road) and drive 3.6km to an obvious Y-intersection. Turn left here onto Powerhouse Springs road, follow for 1.5km and park in obvious area on the left. Walk to the end of the parking area and follow trail through concrete barrier blocks and up track to a mountain bike trail called "The Farther Side". Follow this trail uphill for 10 minutes past numerous switchbacks until you are traversing the forest below the cliff.

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 49.745312, -123.124683

summary

10-15 foot rock outcrops along a pleasant forest path. Bring a wire brush the tops can moss quickly.

approach

Park on Park Cr. Take the trail marked Coho Park (Alice Lake). After a small wooden bridge the trail forks take the Trestle Trail(Alice Lake). The first climbs appear after a couple of minutes. Total approach sub 15min flat ground.

Summary:

All Bouldering

Summary:

Sport climbing, Bouldering and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 49.798511, -123.109486

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 49.818633, -123.125822

description

The Brohm Dome is a new crag with sport routes from 5.8-5.13, and trad routes from 5.9-5.11. The majority of sport routes are concentrated in the

5.11-5.12 grade range. The crag is West facing, so it is shaded till midday. In the afternoon it receives decent shade from a number of large trees, and it's a great evening crag when it's not too hot. Many of the routes in the middle of the wall do seep significantly after prolonged rain, but there are routes at either end of the crag which dry more quickly. All routes at the crag can be climbed with a 60m rope. Routes are generally closely bolted, so bring plenty of draws, and small cams are important on most of the trad routes.

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 49.769882, -123.137601

summary

Small crag with a very short approach.

description

Routes described left to right

approach

From the intersection of Highway 99 and Depot Rd walk along the east side of the highway north of Depot Rd. Head into the woods on the Wonderland Mountain bike trail and the crag will be on your right shortly after entering the forest.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.782202, -123.118185

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.842388, -123.146686

description

Moderate sport climbing area -- fantastic view of the Tantalus Range.

approach

Driving north from Squamish, park at the northbound Tantalus viewpoint on Highway 99 (the first right after Brohm Lake). The approach trail is just across the 99 from the parking area; the crag is about 10-15 minutes along the trail.

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 49.648917, -123.083072

Summary:

Alpine climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 49.807139, -123.302292

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 49.700805, -123.113582

description

Probably the best concentration of 5.11 and harder cracks in Squamish. The route developers are lucky Peter Croft never discovered it.

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 49.750357, -123.108782

description

One of the best new roadside additions to Squamish in recent years. Disgustingly short approach with rock which climbs like a mini Top Shelf. Split-tuh.

Slightly overhanging (and often burly) cracks tucked away in a shadeful forest in the Garibaldi Highlands. Drive to the end of Perth Drive and then walk 50m down the trail into the forest.

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 49.684607, -123.122396

description

As Hazel Findlay put it: "The cracks aren’t like other cracks in Squamish; they are really steep and often wide, climbing more like the cracks of Yosemite than the Chief."

approach

The Long House is about 10-15 minutes uphill from the Catalan Wall.

history

Discovered in 2012 and developed by Josh Lavigne, Paul McSorely, Colin Moorhead, Lydia Marmot, Mandoline Masse-Clark, Hazel Findlay, and Charlie Long.

Summary:

Trad climbing, Aid climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 49.694895, -123.120722

description

A smaller face north of the Chief.

history

As of June, 2008 this peak was renamed Slhanay (pronounced Slarnay) as "The Squaw" was considered a derogatory racist and sexist term.

Summary:

All Trad climbing

description

Located between the Troglodyte Wall and New Delhi Cliff (amongst the Barbarian Walls).

Summary:

All Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: 49.893378, -122.969969

description

Alpine playground

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.721874, -123.127903

description

"Neverland is a beautiful outcropping of quality stone nestled in a small clearing surrounded by lush, green forest with large sword ferns. Being one of Squamish's closest sport climbing crags and having virtually no approach (30 secs. from the parking), Neverland is an excellent spot for a quick session or for a longer day of bolt clipping. The rock is an unusually featured granite with scoops and bulges that have cracks and seams running through them, as well as some interesting pockets. The routes range from 5.9 to 12+ with varied styles. The crag faces west and has shade in the morning and afternoon/evening. - Jack Fieldhouse

Topo: https://www.quickdrawpublications.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/topos/Smoke%20Bluffs%20-%20Neverland.pdf

approach

Neverland is located off the east end of the Olympic Legacy Park parking lot, which is on the left just before the corner at the end of Raven Drive . Sometimes the parking lot gate is locked to avoid theft and vandalism in the park. If so, there are a couple of pullouts on the corner at the end of Raven Drive. You can park here but must pull in far enough to allow a truck and horse trailer to loop around. Walk back a short way along the road to a small trail crossing a ditch on the right that leads you to the parking lot, then through to the crag.

Respect the neighbours by not parking in front of their homes and by keeping the volume down at the crag. Please stay on the paths, off the ferns and clean up after yourselves. If you bring a dog, please don’t let it dig up the base, keep it on leash if there are other climbers at the crag, and pick up after it.There is no camping in this zone.

history

Developed by Jack Fieldhouse

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.828970, -123.144339

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 49.829695, -123.146604

Summary:

Deep water soloing and Trad climbing

Summary:

All Bouldering

Pacific Ranges Guide

Table of contents

1. Pacific Ranges 3,864 routes in Region

1.1. Waddington Range 12 routes in Crag

1.1.1. Mount Waddington 3 routes in Area

1.1.2. Tiedemann Group 5 routes in Area

1.1.3. Serra-Stiletto Peaks 1 route in Area

1.1.4. Claw Peak 3 routes in Area

1.2. Chuck Chuck Creek 10 routes in Crag

1.2.1. Chuck Chuck Creek 0 routes in Area

1.2.2. The Lounge 10 routes in Area

1.2.3. Clint Eastwood 0 routes in Area

1.3. Cheakamus Canyon 431 routes in Crag

1.3.1. Leonard Cohen Crag 0 routes in Crag

1.3.2. Cheakamus Canyon Climbing Area 292 routes in Crag

1.3.3. Rehabilitation Projects 15 routes in Crag

1.3.4. The outpost 4 routes in Area

1.3.5. Rogues Gallery 49 routes in Crag

1.3.6. Sport Temple 11 routes in Crag

1.3.7. Pleasure Dome 7 routes in Crag

1.3.8. The Gym 14 routes in Crag

1.3.9. The Gorge 29 routes in Cliff

1.3.10. Echo Beach 10 routes in Crag

1.4. Squamish 3,411 routes in Crag

1.4.1. Murrin Park 616 routes in Crag

1.4.2. Gonzales Creek & Heights 61 routes in Crag

1.4.3. Papoose 18 routes in Crag

1.4.4. Papoose Backside 17 routes in Crag

1.4.5. Gondola Crags 19 routes in Area

1.4.6. Shannon Falls 115 routes in Crag

1.4.7. Olesen Creek Wall 8 routes in Crag

1.4.8. The Chief 1,186 routes in Crag

1.4.9. The Malamute 66 routes in Crag

1.4.10. Smoke Bluffs 754 routes in Crag

1.4.11. The Sanctuary 14 routes in Crag

1.4.12. Crumpit Woods 70 routes in Area

1.4.13. Fern Hill 33 routes in Crag

1.4.14. Coho Park 28 routes in Area

1.4.15. Powerline Boulders 18 routes in Area

1.4.16. Cat lake 26 routes in Area

1.4.17. Brohm Dome 35 routes in Area

1.4.18. Covid Crag 8 routes in Crag

1.4.19. Alice Lake 14 routes in Crag

1.4.20. Area 44 90 routes in Crag

1.4.21. Mt Habrich 13 routes in Crag

1.4.22. Tantalus Range 9 routes in Crag

1.4.23. Top Shelf 21 routes in Unknown

1.4.24. Highlander 10 routes in Cliff

1.4.25. Long House 31 routes in Cliff

1.4.26. Slhanay 34 routes in Crag

1.4.27. The Ruins 1 route in Cliff

1.4.28. Garibaldi Range 2 routes in Unknown

1.4.29. Neverland 10 routes in Crag

1.4.30. After Work / After Party 11 routes in Area

1.4.31. Paradise Valley 39 routes in Crag

1.4.32. Paradise Valley Boulders 31 routes in Area

1.4.33. Britannia Beach 2 routes in Area

1.4.34. Ashlu 1 route in Area

1.4.35. Chief Boulders 0 routes in Field