Ascents in Harrison Hot Springs having Beta

Worth it! CAUTION: 2nd last bolt was loose and nut nearly undone, I tightened it as much as possible, but it would benefit from a proper tightening from a helpful person with a wrench.

Tactics indeed! Thoughtful moves through finger pockets, sloping pencil thin cracks, and gentle depressions. Thrilling and probably 10b/c if compared to a 10a like Leap Frog. Get your smear on

Worth it for the starting leap alone! Great views from the ledge.

Fills quite hard

Update - use 70 m rope. Check Doug Abbott's comment below.

This is in my top 3 for sure. Very awesome route.

Desperate moves at the start then eases significantly.

Nice homogenous difficulty for the first half then quite easy.

Fun easy trad with bomber pro

Seemed hard with too tight shoes, melting in the sun.

Slipped of the foot through the crux. Blame it on the summer sun...

Spoiler

First bolt of this climb is very run out. You must traverse a nice crack that feels amazing but uncomfortable because of the height. Between the first and second bolt is the crux of the climb. This crux involves standing on very few footholds, getting a very high hand foot match, and then pushing up on your left foot from there to grab the next ledge. Extremely difficult for its grade. I spoke with another fellow climber at the crag, and he climbed the route right after me and felt as if the crux it’s self lies around 10c. Although, to be consistent with the other climbs around at the crag, I would grade this climb 5.10a. I would love to hear what others think if this is in-fact an appropriate grade.

I don't think the left finish is much harder then the right, definitely not 5.10c.

I don’t think I climbed this route but there are more routes than are shown on this site

Took a couple of goes to commit to the last move. Tried it again to finish off and slipped my foot into a hole coming off and ended up with 10 stitches. A bouldering pad would have been clever...

Just the one move. Pretty ordinary.

Second shot

Not sure how this can be a 5.9 and vertebrae a 10b... might be slightly harder but the crux of this 5.9 if you are not very tall is extremely difficult for the grade and even fair for a 10a, in fact of the 5 people i saw leading it everyone either fell or grabbed the second quickdraw... AMAZING move though...made the whole trip to the harrison bluffs worthed, just seems a bit too hard for 5.9... the rest is actually quite sustained and balancy. If leading consider going left where there is bomber pro vs right where its a bit harder to protect before first high bolt

Hard slab, maybe on a cooler day wouldve gone easier but good slab and balancy moves

Fun, well protected and tricky foot placements...hard on a sunny day

Felt pretty ok, although pretty sure we didnt finish it readin the route description. we finished on the chains of vertebrae but was extremetly dirty with pine needles and debris above the chains. Good easy lead

Fun, difficult. Lots of balance and crimpy holds. Holds are starting to wear so good footwork is essential.

Needs maintenance! First bolt is 20ft up, another should be placed below. Until then, do not climb without a piece of pro for the beginning. Also, left anchor hanger was spinning loose and the nut is now hand-tight.

Weird and flared.

Finger crackolicious!!!!

Had a few false stars at the first bolt but oozed my way up the arete after finding the hidden mono.

Missing 3 bolt hangers so I set up a top rope by climbing the crack to the right then traversing across. Would be an awesome route if someone hadn't bootied half the bolts :-( ARRGGGGG

Super cool face moves. Started left of the bolts up the crack.

Hand crack for me. Maybe fist crack for the route lister.

So slabby

Great climb, perhaps loved it more on top rope than lead :p

Hard work! I don't know if this is technically an off-width crack but sure felt like it to me! Still lots of fun

Not easily protected, lucky it's a 5.7

Good fun, would make for a committing trad lead

I loved this climb - crimpy and clever!

Commiting moves, getting that high leg was key!

Didn't know the grade when I gave this crack, fell twice before the first clip. Yikes! Lucky my belayer caught me!

Best FA that I've ever done. Almost 30ft of climbing, with over a third of this on a roof. #FA

Very Fun...The First moves were weird but once you grab the ledgy thing and traverse right to the first bolt it gets quite exiting.

Good warm-up

Second ascent - Beautiful, technical line