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Routes in Buffalo Crag

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Showing all 92 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
5.6 Which Way Now

Starts at number 0.

Trad
5.7 End Game

Start at 3m.

Trad
5.9 Sunsplash
Trad
5.8 Flying Kiwi

Start at 10m.

Trad
5.8 The Prow

Start at 11m.

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5.10b Georger Pecans

Start at 13m.

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5.11a Hyper Extension

Start at 15m.

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5.8 Thin Series

Start at 15m.

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5.6 Green Thumb

Start at 17m

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5.6 Unknown

Start at 30m.

Trad 23m
5.3 Autumn Finale

Start at 33m.

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5.3 Jetsam

Start at 37m. Climb up up the open book.

Trad 23m
5.8 But...It Was Only a Tree

Start at 39m.

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5.8 Fear or Flying

Start at 41m.

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5.5 British Faggots

Start at 41m.

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5.5 Piece of Duff

Start at 44m. Climb up the obvious crack to a fixed nut under a small roof. Move left out from under the roof and continue up on easier terrain.

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5.0 Staircase
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5.9 Baby Face
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5.11a Crank if You Love Jesus
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5.9 Girdle Traverse

A long face traverse which starts on the belay ledge of 'Baby Face' and finishes on 'Sunshine'. Hanging belay on 'Sad Eyed Lady of the Lowlands', belay ledge on 'Boa Constrictor' and on 'Abyss'.

Trad
5.8 Flying Squirrel

Start at 73m.

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5.9 The Field Marshal's Hangover

Start at 78m.

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5.7 Goldmund

Start at 80m.

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5.8 Marzipan
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5.6 Narcis

Start at 80m.

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5.8 Jungle Vines

Start at 84m.

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5.9 Pain Ingot

Starts at 88m

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5.10 Serration

The location of this route is unclear from the guidebooks. Probably starts around 92m and follows some lieback flakes up to a roof, then moves right and up from there to the right of the tree.

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5.10d Sad Eyed Lady of the Lowlands

Starts at 95m

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5.9 Rainy Day Woman

Starts at 98m. Climbs the obvious cracks through two roofs, heading up and left. Very fun and very sustained.

Trad 22m
5.10c Phenothiazine

Starts at 100m.

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5.11c Lycra Test
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5.11c Know Your Rights

Start in the corner under the large roof with a bolt on the right and piton on the left. Move up and right, crank the roof past the bolt on good (but hard to see) holds. Continue straight up on easy terrain, following 'Knight's Move' to the top.

Mixed trad 1
5.10d Summer Brave

Starts at 105m.

Trad
5.10b Orange Wall Direct

Start at 106m. Direct start to Orange wall, staying left of the 2nd bolt. Either connect up with Orange wall (5.10B) or stay left towards the giant boulder (that looks like it'll fall off) to finish up Summer Brave (5.10C)

Trad 22m
5.9 Orange Wall

Starts at 110m. Start 6m right of the direct start. Follow the two bols that are veering left and then aim straight up after the second bolt. Fantastic climbing.

Trad 22m
5.7 Knight's Move

Starts at 110m. Heads up about 5m, then moves well left to a left-facing corner above a large roof and continues to the top.

Trad
5.7 Skywalker

Start at 110m.

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5.9 Nervous System

Start at 112m.

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5.4 Boa Constrictor

Starts at 113m. Climbs the obvious offwidth/chimney, then head right to the top. One of the very few offwidth/chimney climbs on the Escarpment.

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5.8 Reject Direct

Start at 116m.

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5.2 Veg
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5.8 Veg Direct

Start at 116m.

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5.3 Shakey Flakey

Start to the right of Veg Direct.

Trad
5.10b Operation Evaporation

Start at 125m

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5.11 The Go-Between
Top rope
5.10b Abyss

Start at 131m. Strenuous start off the poor-landing boulders, following the layback cracks and small roofs to the dark corner of the big roof. Make your way around the big rock for a slabby finish on grippy rock.

Trad 22m
5.9 Hydroseal
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5.7 Sunshine

Start at 138m.

Trad 25m
5.4 Durley's Return

Start at 142m.

Trad
5.7 Bob's Your Uncle

Start at 145m.

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5.2 The Coke

Start at 145m. Climb up to the right.

Trad 20m
5.4 Apple Crumble
Trad
Class 4 Easy Way Down

The easy descent located just west of the Buffalo Crag lookout.

Trad
5.2 Warm Up

Start at 172m, Perpendicular to main cliff face. Good holds and minimal exposure.

Trad 12m
5.8 Simian Swing

Start at 175m.

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5.6 U of T Special

Start at 177m.

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5.4 Trillium

Start at 178m.

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5.4 Tree Jam

Start at 182m.

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5.3 Mayflower

Start at 188m.

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5.1 Turkey

Start at 213m.

Trad
5.9 Fancisco's Memorial Traverse
Trad 3
5.4 Calhoun

Start at 200m.

Trad
5.10c Brain Salad Surgery

Start at 205m.

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5.9 Smartsinutab

Start at 206m.

Trad
5.7 The Sting

Start at 208m.

Trad
5.8 Reunion

Start at 210m.

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5.6 The Dodger
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5.9 The Shield

Start at 215m.

Trad
5.8 Silly Face

Start at 217m.

Trad
5.6 Super Duper
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5.8 Super Dave's Last Stunt

Start at 222m.

Trad
5.5 Reservoir
Trad
5.6 Ragusa

Start at 229m.

Trad
5.4 Yoyo
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5.6 Sperber

Start at 237m.

Trad
5.6 Orc
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5.9 Nivek
Trad
5.9 Sandman

Start at 247m.

Trad
5.8 Dune
Trad
5.6 Cedar

Start at 252m.

Trad
5.9 Tapestry

Start at 257m. Up the glossy holds towards the crack. Follow the crack to the chimney behind the huge flake. Make your way up the chimney and follow the crack to the top.

Trad 13m
5.10c Angel Drawers Direct

Start at the "5" painted on the rock. Avoids both "Tapestry" and "Angel Drawers" up to the final crack.

Direct up on big boulders and up the muddy dark crack, followed by a transition to the crack just right of "Tapestry" at the roof. Big moves up two ledges to finish up the "Angel Drawers" final crack.

Pretty fun and a bit harder than "Angel Drawers. Probably has been climbed before, and may have a different name, but it's not in the guide book. Top roped so unsure about trad/gear placement.

Top rope 13m
5.10b Angel Drawers

Start at 260m. Follow the crack on black rock along the dihedral and up around the the right of the roof to avoid it, then once over the roof, make your way back left towards the obvious crack to the top.

Trad 13m
5.5 Pickle Puss
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5.4 Ramble
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5.5 Second Time Lucky

Start at 267m.

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5.7 Desperation Mantle

Start at 270m.

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5.9 Desperation Exit

Start at 273m.

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5.10b Stony End
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5.6 Chili and Double Toast

Start at 275m.

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5.4 Brown Pop

Start at 277m.

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Showing all 92 routes.

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