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Summary

from parking at the end of the road walk toward the area you will come to a small stream of water. from there move left until you come to the first boulder called centaur.

Description

a small area with scattered boulders

Access issues

this area is closed according to NCC

Approach

10 minutes walk to first boulder and 10 more to further area

Ethic inherited from Eardley Escarpment

No new development or bolting allowed. Strong tradition of leaving trad routes trad, even if badly run-out.

Routes

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Grade Route

Climb the stream

Start low matched on first hold. Continue right until you exit left with a far jug.

Traverse from left to right. Amazing line.

FA: jonathan audy, 2007

from far right short traverse and top out For beta

https://youtu.be/oU-m0QSsFvs

FA: 2007

start on jug climb up and right to top out

FA: 2009

Start low traverse right, hard start after easier , up and right from centaur.

FA: Jo Audy, 2008

Using Undercling in roof, reach big holds and top out. Needs more cleaning

FA: Louis Rainville, Apr 2021

Left hand in obvious crack and right hand on crimp, using rock under for feet jump to flat jug and top out(v2). if you heel hook with right foot and top out without using rock under : (V3/4?) could use more cleaning video : https://youtube.com/shorts/SGyWhwnleuw

FA: Louis Rainville, Apr 2021

start to the right on good crimp and side pull, move straight up holds are in perfect line. Video https://youtube.com/shorts/V6jxgGj1sVo

FA: Louis Rainville, Apr 2021

Starting on crimps grab right hand on slopping side pull move up left to side pull crimp then move to slab finish. Maybe height dependent.

FA: 20 Jul 2021

short line 3 meter. grade to be confirm?

FA: 2008

SDS on lowest and biggest rail. Moove to the right while not using the top nor the good crimp on top (eliminate), only the huge half-moon rail . Shoot to a far sloper on the right and topout on apex of the boulder.

See beta here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MNRvmz_PfFg&t=4s

FA: 2009

Short

FA: 2007

Climb the right arete on small non existing holds. V8 = Contrived

FA: Jonathan Audy, 2008

climb face

short line 3 meter, grade to be confirmed

sit start

climb face

climb face

See video for start and beta https://youtu.be/ODVN2aLyHRY

FA: 2008

Low start of mocassym, located higher on the hill (up and left) from bloc lego and centaur.

https://youtu.be/-ZzpbEMhr-4

FA: Yves GRavelle, 2008

Start on slopper move up and right top out. Stand start of le jete du canard. Side wall is out!

FA: Louis Rainville, 2008

Stand start finish same has le canard

FA: Louis Rainville, 2008

Climb Le Jete du Canard and use the side wall to exit

FA: 2008

this route is located up and behind slithly right of mocassym boulder. Follow the yellow marking on picture. Side wall is out! sharp! video description https://youtube.com/shorts/1Hb7Y0Yl32U

FA: Louis Rainville, 2008

start low like the heartbreak go up and right and topout

Sit start just low and right of le jete du canard. Finish on le jete du canard. FA Yves gravelle Video description https://youtube.com/shorts/jTO2_uClhJU

FA: yves gravelle, 2009

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Sat 6 May
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