Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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5.10b | ★ Photophobia | 28m, 12 | Manuels | Tue 24th Jul 2018 | |||||
5.10b | ★★ Grateful Dead | 10m, 4 | Portugal Cove | ★★ Very Good | Sun 1st Aug 2021 | ||||
Relatively, one of the best routes imho at this particular crag. Pretty aesthetic. I started on the same feature as gRIPped, and then went straight up with a cool match and then left pocket to high right hand hold before the end. The LO lower off fixed carabiners are in good shape.
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5.10b Easy | ★ Photophobia | 28m, 12 | Manuels | ★ Good | Wed 9th Aug 2023 | ||||
Some technical thin edge slab climbing and good old slab smears on this one. Happy to get the on-sight, and think it is about 5.10-, so "easy 5.10b" seems fair.
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5.10b/c Hard | ★★ Hysteria | 18m | Flatrock | Average | Tue 11th Jun 2024 | ||||
5.10a | ★ Marine Slab | 15m, 6 | Marine Slabs | ★ Good | Fri 24th Jun 2022 | ||||
5.10a | ★ Cuckold | 15m, 4 | Flatrock | ★ Good | Wed 12th Jun 2024 | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Creationism - with GrizzlyBear | 23m, 7 | Flatrock | ★★ Very Good | Thu 27th Aug 2015 | ||||
went above the right traverse and had to down climb a couple moves. some holds are a bit dusty as the route is new but definitely worth it.
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5.9 | ★★ Core Shot | 25m, 9 | Manuels | ★★ Very Good | Wed 9th Aug 2023 | ||||
Some fun climbing on holds, not just slab.
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5.9 | ★★ Tach Auch | 28m, 10 | Manuels | ★★ Very Good | Wed 9th Aug 2023 | ||||
Climbed this after "Photophobia" so chose different holds and movement past the shared bolt to "preserve my on-sight".
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5.9 | ★ Hat Shit | 25m, 10 | Manuels | Wed 9th Aug 2023 | |||||
First climb at the crag, and counting bolt lines from the right, thought this was "Sick Like Dog" (5.7). So, figured it would be a nice 5.7 warm up. That it was not. It was not a very pleasant 5.7, seeming quite hard for the grade. Then I found out that "German Access" was around the corner, oops.
At least it was quite closely bolted. |
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5.9 | ★★ Creationism | 23m, 7 | Flatrock | ★ Good | Tue 11th Jun 2024 | ||||
5.8 | ★ Shallow Grave | 10m, 4 | Portugal Cove | ★ Good | Sun 1st Aug 2021 | ||||
Lead on this little route, a nice warmup. Took off some pebbles from the ledge and some loose rock around it. At the top there are 2 hanger bolts and one quicklink for lowering.
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5.8 | ★★★ Polygon-na Climb it | 12m, 5 | Swift Current | ★★★ Classic | Sat 20th Aug 2022 | ||||
5.8 | ★ Wet Chalk | 20m, 7 | Flatrock | Thu 14th Jul 2022 | |||||
5.8 |
★ Obsession
1
2
| 50m, 12 | Manuels | ★ Good | Thu 27th Jul 2023 | ||||
First pitch is an easy slab - not much to it. Second pitch is hard for the grade.
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5.8 | ★★★ Polygon-na Climb it | 12m, 5 | Swift Current | ★★★ Classic | Sat 5th Aug 2023 | ||||
Surprisingly steep for a 5.8, but there are big, jugs the whole way, though, I occasionally had to convince myself the flakes were solid, and occasionally you had to do a bit of route-finding to find the jugs.
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5.8 | ★★ German Engineered | 25m, 8 | Manuels | ★★ Very Good | Wed 9th Aug 2023 | ||||
Some very enjoyable stemming movement in the corner/groove.
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5.8 | ★ Boston Mantle | 10m, 4 | Manuels | ★ Good | Fri 11th Aug 2023 | ||||
Short but fun.
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5.7 | ★★ Spray Down - with GrizzlyBear | 20m, 6 | Flatrock | ★★ Very Good | Thu 27th Aug 2015 | ||||
5.7 | ★★ Noobie Squeeze - with GrizzlyBear | 30m, 14 | Manuels | ★★ Very Good | Mon 7th Sep 2015 | ||||
Great warm up climb. Bring lots of quickdraws
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5.7 | ★★ Ivan's Corner | 20m | Flatrock | ★★ Very Good | Sat 17th Jul 2021 | ||||
Oof trad onsight and my hardest pure trad route yet. Consistent climbing with cruxes at the bottom on the shared part of Candy and then a crux somewhere around the middle or higher.
Definitely old school 5.7. Took pretty good gear throughout, I used from a size two BD cam and downward, many nuts, and a few tricams. It could be toproped to clean/follow/top rope with an anchor off of the Candy/Ass Master bolts with a redirect from a 0.4 cam placement just above where the corner ends. A fun beginning trad lead even if I did freak out a bit in the middle. A bit pumpy! And feels ‘overhung’ at the top. It was also great that it was very dry today. A bit of foliage mid route. |
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5.7 | ★★ Shark Bait | 11m, 5 | Marine Slabs | ★★ Very Good | Fri 24th Jun 2022 | ||||
5.7 | ★★ Candy | 15m, 5 | Flatrock | Thu 14th Jul 2022 | |||||
5.7 | ★★ Ivan's Corner | 20m | Flatrock | Thu 28th Jul 2022 | |||||
5.7 | ★★ Spray Down | 20m, 6 | Flatrock | Thu 28th Jul 2022 | |||||
5.7 | ★★ Dyslexia | 22m, 8 | Manuels | ★★ Very Good | Thu 27th Jul 2023 | ||||
Interesting features and Well bolted
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5.7 Hard | ★★ Spray Down | 20m, 6 | Flatrock | Tue 8th Aug 2023 | |||||
Felt like glued (not always solidly) kitty litter.
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5.7 | ★★ Sick Like Dog | 25m, 10 | Manuels | ★ Good | Wed 9th Aug 2023 | ||||
Pleasant.
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5.7 Hard | ★ (left-leaning crack) | 10m | Manuels | ★ Good | Fri 11th Aug 2023 | ||||
Takes decent gear. More engaging than I expected looking at it from the ground -- negotiating the way the right side of the crack leans out over the face makes it feel a lot steeper than it actually is.
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5.7 | ★★ Dyslexia | 22m, 8 | Manuels | ★ Good | Fri 11th Aug 2023 | ||||
The second steep section was not just wet, but wet and slimy, making what would otherwise have been a very enjoyable climb only enjoyable.
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5.7 | ★★ Spray Down | 20m, 6 | Flatrock | ★★ Very Good | Wed 12th Jun 2024 | ||||
5.6 | ★★ Ankle Biter | 30m, 14 | Manuels | ★★ Very Good | Sat 7th Aug 2021 | ||||
THIE ROUTE HAS AT LEAST 14 BOLTS ON THE FACE, plus the anchor (we used a 10m cordalette and 4 locking quickdraws).
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5.6 | ★★ Noggin' | 25m | Flatrock | Thu 14th Jul 2022 | |||||
5.6 | ★ Astro Kitty | 14m, 6 | Swift Current | ★ Good | Sat 5th Aug 2023 | ||||
Pleasant little less than vertical sport climb, with nicely featured slab, and some bits of trust-your-feet. Nice way to finish the day.
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5.6 ~5.5 | ★★ Tiger Woods | 21m | Swift Current | ★★ Very Good | Sat 5th Aug 2023 | ||||
Fun little trade route, with generally good gear. Was told 5.7 (and that local trad grades were stiff), so kept placing gear in case things got hard, but they never did. Probably 5.5, but I'll leave it with the 5.6 down-grade on here.
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5.6 ~5.6 | ★★ Noggin' | 25m | Flatrock | Tue 8th Aug 2023 | |||||
Solid gear and good stances all the time. No harder than 5.6, I'd say.
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5.5 | ★ (wandering trad line) | 30m | Manuels | ★ Good | Fri 11th Aug 2023 | ||||
An enjoyable trad ramble.
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5.4 | Toprope Route A | 16m | Quidi Vidi | Wed 22nd Jun 2022 | |||||
Toprope Route B | 16m | Quidi Vidi | Wed 22nd Jun 2022 | ||||||
Toprope Route C | 16m | Quidi Vidi | Wed 22nd Jun 2022 | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Merzhin ar Strobineller | 35m | DFO | ★★ Very Good | Sat 15th Jun 2024 | ||||
5.10a | ★★ Richard Parker | 20m, 8 | Swift Current | ★★★ Classic | Sat 20th Aug 2022 | ||||
5.9 | ★★ gRIPped | 4 | Portugal Cove | ★★ Very Good | Sun 1st Aug 2021 | ||||
One of the better routes at the crag, stick clipped the bolt and had beta from a friend who toproped it before me. Good holds with a crux in the middle. The LO lower off fixed carabiners are in good shape. It's possible to toprope off the same anchor it shares with "Purgatory" with or without redirect carabiners.
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5.9 | ★ Scar Face | 10m, 5 | Marine Slabs | ★ Good | Sat 25th Jun 2022 | ||||
5.9 | ★ Stumped | 10m, 4 | Marine Slabs | ★ Good | Fri 24th Jun 2022 | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Gee I'm A Tree | 18m, 7 | Swift Current | ★★★ Classic | Sat 20th Aug 2022 | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Boogie Wonderland | 20m, 4 | Flatrock | ★★ Very Good | Sat 15th Oct 2022 | ||||
A good flash, placing the gear
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5.8 | ★★ Acron | 10m, 5 | Portugal Cove | ★ Good | Sun 1st Aug 2021 | ||||
Flashed it after a friend had the second quickdraw hung and it was pre-clipped off bolt 1. I accidentally skipped the last bolt before the end, I might have been too far left, making the clip to the LO's scary. I would recommend actually clipping all of the bolts.
The route seems a bit runout between bolts 2 and 3, it's fairly easy and juggy terrain, idk about rock for bolting there. The last move clipping the top anchors I found a bit more challenging than the other routes, as the 'top jug,' seems to be on the 'right,' and it's slopey at the top elsewhere. The top bolts and hangers seem fine, but the two quicklinks at the top seem kinda rusty. See note on 'Grateful Dead' about having lowered off these LO's at the end, it being okay, but I'm pretty light, and it was only a lower and no sudden movements or swings. It appears on Mountain Project : face" target="_blank">https://www.mountainproject.com/area/108094394/cemetery-face There are toprope routes to the climber's left some easy topropes with two anchor bolts each. We didn't try these today, but we vaguely saw shiny pieces we figure are anchor bolts. Could probably do the scramble to the left to get to them, with caution, to toprope and subsequently walk down with the anchors (?) to clean. An adventure for next time! Overall, not a bad area especially with being so close to town, and the approach being super quick, even from the first 'lower' parking lot as mentioned at the end of the road. |
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5.7 5.6 | ★★ Tiger Woods | 21m | Swift Current | ★★ Very Good | Mon 5th Sep 2022 | ||||
5.11c | ★★★ Fine Line Between Fear and Flying - with Madison Bailey, Ellen Gleadow | 27m, 10 | Flatrock | ★★★ Classic | Sat 22nd Oct 2022 | ||||
SEND!!!
Started from the first quickdraw.
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5.11a | ★★★ Maggie | 35m, 5 | Flatrock | ★★★ Classic | Sun 25th Jul 2021 | ||||
FINALLY REDPOINTED THIS ROUTE after having projected it for like, ten years. Had the quickdraws hung, but put in my own gear, the yellow 2 camelot and the green 0.74 camelot later. The crux clip then sequence was challenging, and the final moves after the last bolt traversing were challenging too. Was a great experience and so glad to have done this one. Will have to come back to do the ascent without pre-strung draws, possible to project '"Ledge Dweller" next time. Cheers, and thanks so much friends!!!!
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5.11a | ★★★ Maggie | 35m, 5 | Flatrock | ★★★ Classic | Fri 6th Aug 2021 | ||||
Finally redopointed this without pre-placed draws. Had to do a high foot to get bolt 4 and also had to hand-tighten bolt 2 (it was mini-wrench tightened on the lower). Went to the new Maggie glue-ins after clipping the rightmost draw on the "Ledge Dweller" anchor. Was good to tick off, definitely pumpy in the crux to the first gear placement for a first climb. The top crux felt mildly better after a careful right foot placement.
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5.11a | ★ Size Matters Not | 12m, 3 | Flatrock | ★ Good | Sun 26th Jun 2022 | ||||
Lead this and used a black tricam between bolts 2 and 3 as well as a 0.75 cam up top to protect the runout before the anchor.
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5.10+ | ★★ Blackout | 9m, 3 | Flatrock | ★★ Very Good | Tue 3rd Aug 2021 | ||||
Lead this clean on the second try today, narrowly not falling off as my left hand slipped just as my right hand acheived the jug after the crux.
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5.10d | ★★ Purgatory | 10m, 4 | Portugal Cove | ★★ Very Good | Sun 1st Aug 2021 | ||||
Tried to flash it, and broke a hold off the initial high right hand. Lowered off the stick clipped bolt, started from the ground, and then sent the route. Enjoyed it, it was big and dynamic and it played to all of my strengths. The LO lower off fixed draws were in good shape to clean the route.
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5.10d | ★ Pucker Up | 18m, 4 | Flatrock | ★ Good | Sun 12th Jun 2022 | ||||
5.10d | ★★★ Squareful What You Wish For | 20m, 6 | Swift Current | ★★★ Classic | Sat 3rd Sep 2022 | ||||
5.10c | ★★ Kelp Zombies | 12m | Flatrock | ★★ Very Good | Tue 23rd Aug 2022 | ||||
Lead it with pre-placed draws and topped it out. Nice route.
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5.10- | ★ Pog Mahoe | 17m, 4 | Flatrock | ★ Good | Sun 25th Jul 2021 | ||||
Finally lead this after avoiding it (because it isn't like, good, it's just the most mediocre route ever). Stick clipped the high first bolt, climbed mostly to the right of the bolt line and was a bit to the right in the 'corner thing,' through the scrambly bit, then topped out to set up the toprope anchor. It's very... Well it's fine... I guess... Good one to tick off... It's actually not bad as a newbie toprope sort of...
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5.10a | ★★ Flaccid | 12m, 3 | Flatrock | ★★ Very Good | Sat 18th Jun 2022 | ||||
Aha, finally redpointed this and placed my own gear. Had a solid pink tricam in the lower ledge.
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5.10a ~5.10c | ★★ Flaccid | 12m, 3 | Flatrock | ★ Good | Tue 11th Jun 2024 | ||||
It now has four bolts, making it an exciting sport route, not sure where gear is needed. Very hard, sandbagged, feels 10c.
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5.9 | ★★★ Hakuna Matata | 18m, 4 | Flatrock | ★★★ Classic | Sat 28th Aug 2021 | ||||
As I climb this more, I wonder if a bolt added would be good before the anchor. The gear was probably solid, but it's right after the crux and at least to me, not as obvious as on the gear on Candy. Plus it takes a long time to put the pieces in and then there's 3 moves left or less.
Climbed this to take the quicklink left on the last bot on the face off. It is now at Wallnuts. |
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5.9 | ★★★ Hakuna Matata | 18m, 4 | Flatrock | ★★★ Classic | Sat 28th Aug 2021 | ||||
As I climb this more, I wonder if a bolt added would be good before the anchor. The gear was probably solid, but it's right after the crux and at least to me, not as obvious as on the gear on Candy. Plus it takes a long time to put the pieces in and then there's 3 moves left or less.
Climbed this to take the quicklink left on the last bot on the face off. It is now at Wallnuts. |
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5.9 | ★★★ Yellow Fever | 27m, 1 | Flatrock | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 21st Sep 2022 | ||||
Finally redpointed this after years o working up to it. Pre-placed the nut for the send.
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5.9 | ★★ Five Fingers | 20m, 1 | Flatrock | ★★ Very Good | Sat 15th Oct 2022 | ||||
5.9 | ★ Honey Brown | 12m | Quidi Vidi | Wed 22nd Jun 2022 | |||||
5.9 | ★★ 1892 | 12m | Quidi Vidi | Wed 22nd Jun 2022 | |||||
5.9 | ★★★ Hakuna Matata | 18m, 4 | Flatrock | ★★★ Classic | Tue 11th Jun 2024 | ||||
Tricky crux! Felt fine without Trad gear.
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5.8 | ★ Wet Chalk | 20m, 7 | Flatrock | ★ Good | Sat 28th Aug 2021 | ||||
Well I redpointed/onsighted it years ago. Friend set up the draws for practice, I cleaned it. Good stuff.
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5.7 | ★★ Spray Down | 20m, 6 | Flatrock | ★★★ Classic | Tue 3rd Aug 2021 | ||||
Love this as a first warm up.
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5.7 | ★★ Sick Like Dog | 25m, 10 | Manuels | ★★ Very Good | Sun 28th May 2023 | ||||
5.7 5.6 | ★★ Noggin' | 25m | Flatrock | ★★ Very Good | Fri 6th Aug 2021 | ||||
Lead this on gear with my single rack and DB's extra cams sized 0.75-4 plus his large nuts and offset nuts. Placed gear with help of DB, apparently my placements were good at the beginning and less optimal higher up maybe I rushed them. Lessons learned are to try to place a larger cam in the space to get a better hold. Not trust pebbles. Place further in. Really test and set pieces. Either way it was a great experience and climb and very happy with it.
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5.6 | ★ Day Boil | 16m | Quidi Vidi | Wed 22nd Jun 2022 | |||||
5.6 | ★ Astro Kitty | 14m, 6 | Swift Current | ★ Good | Mon 7th Aug 2023 | ||||
5.7 | ★★ Candy | 15m, 5 | Flatrock | ★ Good | Thu 30th May 2019 | ||||
5.7 | ★★ Ivan's Corner | 20m | Flatrock | ★ Good | Thu 30th May 2019 | ||||
5.7 | ★★ Moon Jelly | 30m | DFO | ★ Good | Mon 29th Aug 2022 | ||||
5.11a | ★★★ Maggie | 35m, 5 | Flatrock | ★★★ Classic | Sun 21st Aug 2022 | ||||
5.9 | ★★★ Hakuna Matata | 18m, 4 | Flatrock | ★★★ Classic | Tue 3rd Aug 2021 | ||||
Lead this with a stick clipped first bolt thank goodness, pretty chill, crux then gear placement.
For gear, I had a decent tricam, a cam, and maybe another piece. Probably only needed one but I couldn't find an amazing piece like on Candy, though I'm sure one exists, I wasn't confident enough that I knew where that was. Super fun moves, classic climb. |
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5.9 | ★★★ Hakuna Matata | 18m, 4 | Flatrock | ★★★ Classic | Sun 12th Jun 2022 | ||||
5.8 | ★★ It'll Be Fine | 12m | Flatrock | ★★ Very Good | Mon 15th Aug 2022 | ||||
5.7 | ★★ Candy | 15m, 5 | Flatrock | ★★★ Classic | Sat 17th Jul 2021 | ||||
That cam looked pretty solid today!
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5.7 | ★★ Candy | 15m, 5 | Flatrock | ★★★ Classic | Sat 24th Jul 2021 | ||||
5.7 | ★★ Candy | 15m, 5 | Flatrock | ★★★ Classic | Tue 3rd Aug 2021 | ||||
Lead it and this time I also placed a red tricam to the left of the 0.75 green BD X4 cam. Perhaps a bigger tricam could eliminate the need for a horizontal cam (even a very bendy stem one). Time will tell when that order comes in.
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5.7 | ★★ Candy | 15m, 5 | Flatrock | ★★★ Classic | Sun 12th Jun 2022 | ||||
5.7 | ★★ Candy | 15m, 5 | Flatrock | ★★★ Classic | Sun 7th Aug 2022 | ||||
5.7 | ★★ Candy | 15m, 5 | Flatrock | ★★★ Classic | Wed 31st Aug 2022 | ||||
5.7 | ★★ Candy | 15m, 5 | Flatrock | ★★★ Classic | Fri 30th Sep 2022 | ||||
5.6 | ★ Sharp Teeth | 7m | Flatrock | ★★ Very Good | Sun 11th Jul 2021 | ||||
Great beginner trad lead.
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5.6 | ★★ Look Both Ways | 8m | Flatrock | ★★ Very Good | Mon 1st Aug 2022 | ||||
5.5 | Unnamed Dihedral | 8m | Flatrock | ★ Good | Sun 11th Jul 2021 | ||||
Trad lead.
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5.4 | ★ Unnamed Crack - Middle | 7m | Flatrock | ★ Good | Sat 3rd Jul 2021 | ||||
Trad lead
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5.8 | ★★ German Engineered | 25m, 8 | Manuels | Wed 5th Jun 2019 | |||||
5.8 | ★ Boston Mantle | 10m, 4 | Manuels | Wed 5th Jun 2019 | |||||
5.8 | ★ Boston Mantle | 10m, 4 | Manuels | Sun 2nd Jun 2019 | |||||
5.8 Easy | ★ Shallow Grave | 10m, 4 | Portugal Cove | ★ Good | Fri 18th Aug 2023 | ||||
5.8 Easy | ★ Shallow Grave | 10m, 4 | Portugal Cove | ★ Good | Sun 8th Oct 2023 | ||||
5.7 | ★★ Noobie Squeeze | 30m, 14 | Manuels | ★★ Very Good | Sun 18th Aug 2019 | ||||
5.6 | ★★ Ankle Biter | 30m, 14 | Manuels | ★★ Very Good | Sun 18th Aug 2019 | ||||
5.10d | ★★★ Squareful What You Wish For | 20m, 6 | Swift Current | ★★★ Classic | Fri 19th Aug 2022 | ||||
Had draws 1, 2, 3 pre-clipped, completing the end for the first try
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