Ascents in Palissades de Charlevoix

Le rappel du dernier pitch doit se faire depuis l'arbre avec l'anneau de rappel. Notre corde de 70m etait trop courte pour rappel depuis le 1er relais.

Simul in one pitch with a few 4-5m belays for cruxes. This climb is great. Much much better than the 'sport 400'. 1h55min ground to top. 51min rappel.

Gear spoiler: we brought single from #0 to #3, doubles from 0.4 to #2, triples from 0.5 to #1 with a full set of stoppers and tricams (2 black, two pink and one red). A standard double rack would be fine if climbing normally. I did place the 0.1 and 0.2 in the first pitch. Stoppers would probably work provided some gardening. #4 or #5 might be usefull if planning on doing the p5 dirty off-width variant.

We started way off route on a friction slab with few protections. PA lead a ~200m simul-block to a tree belay. Not recommended. The pitch had few protections with friction and balance moves up to 5.9 over ~10m runouts. We then proceeded to climb 3 70m pitches to the top, swapping leads. We believe to have been back on route for those pitches. 1h51min for the simul-block, and 1h52min for the remaining three pitches. ~1h for the rappel.

Total time car to car for the three climbs: ~12h30min

Simul in one pitch. PA onsight-lead the block. 24 draws (30 would be better). 46 mins ground to top. 47 mins for the rappels. Rappel beta: with double 70m 8.4mm ropes, we did a 35m single rope rappel, then 4 full lenght simul-rappels to the ground. Note that the second rappel (first full lenght) we did bypassed the anchor shared with the climb and rope stretch got us exactly to the next anchor. Make sure you understand what that implies if you attempt this method.

Followed Léa with a new climber up this. She stopped at the end of P1 (already a lot of drag) and then climbed P2-P3-P4 in one long 72m pitch. Rapelling P2 with a single 70m rope got us to the slung tree without having to unrope.

Very nice climb. Should get more traffic. The poison ivy at the base had us bushwhack the ramp left of the climb until we met with the first bolt. Raph linked the two first pitches using a few long draws to manage drag. He built a tree anchor at the beginning of the "Garden" to avoid horrendous drag. I did a 5m short-rope pitch to move the anchor over to the bolts. Then I linked the last two pitches into an enjoyable 40m pitch. We rappelled into "Microgravité" for an extra pitch.

Bonus pitch! Great climb. Good movement. Many many bolts with mostly secure climbing.

With Raph, he lead the first two pitches as a bloc and I led the last two. He had a lot of drag and a terrible belay stance. We had double ropes and rappelled pitches 2-3-4 in a single rope stretcher to the anchor of P1. We then walked (unroped) to the slung tree and then a single rappel through the trees back to the ground.

We climbed as a party of three with two people new to long multi-pitch climbing but who had good prior knowledge of techniques. 3.5h base to top, 1.5h rapelling. No ropes stuck. Efficient manipulations.

1 fall

Our single rope got stucked in the first rappel and we ripped out tagline trying to retreive it. It was probably caused by bad route finding (we ended up in the trees). It was my 2nd time on this route and did not expect to have this kind of issue. Had to call for a rescue around 10 pm, got off the mountain safely around 5-6 am thanks to the team at the base.

Climbed it a second time in the same day. We did 1h37 this time.

Simul-climbed in two pitches in 2h. 27 draws.