Routes in The North Walls

Tigger Right into The Tugger. Super Fun !! ( Not sure of name )

This is the boulder right in front of Backward in easy Chair. Start at the bottom right of the lip and traverse to your left. Follow the arete for a fun little warm-up.

Traverse all the way left to the arete. Really finicky and delicate holds and footwork.

Just left of I Shot The Sherrif there's a small frig boulder. Sit start however you can and hug it up.

Starts about 25m right of Borderline, climbing up a broken face capped by a small roof at 6m.

1. P1: 10c, 35m

2. P2: 11a, 20m

1. 48m (5.10b)

2. 35m (5.8)

3. 45m (5.10d)

4. (5.10a)

5. (5.10a)

6. (5.10d)

7. (5.8)

1. 25m (5.9)

2. 25m (5.10b)

Angel's Crest is a classic 5-star multi-pitch route that is one of the longest and most adventurous 5.10 routes on the Chief. This route ascends the "north arete", the entire ridge to the R of the North Gully.

1. 5.10b Up a slab past a few bolts and over a bulge (crux). Clip the rap anchor and continue around to another slab with 4 more bolts to the base of Angle crack

2. 5.10b Angel Crack. A L-leaning fingers to hand layback crack with good rests. Finishing with a short hand traverse L under a block before moving up to the belay ledge.

3. 5.10b Out L and up face to a groove, then up and R back to the arête.

4. 5.6 Easy scrambling up the slabby arête.

5. 5.10a Steep Face - Up steep face. Move R below a bulge, then up easier through a R corner to a ledge.

6. 5.5 Easy ground to a small ledge with trees.

7. 5.10a Up two ramps and R. Finish up a L facing corner to reach the ledge.

8. 5.9 (alt. 5.10a) Up R, and then up through the trees to groove. Follow up R, then up to the ledge with trees. Alternative pitch - An off-width on the L (5.10a).

9. 5.5 Acrophobes Traverse. Follow trail and scramble L and up to the base of the Lower Tower. Up diagonally, then hand traverse the ridge to the summit of the Lower Tower. Note there are alternative routes here The Acrophobes Towers, A knife edge over which you climb to eventually rappel off the back side.

10. 5.8 Through the notch, climb back to the west, across, and up to a fixed-line. Downclimb to a small dirt ledge. Scramble along the ramp into a gully to escape the route.

11. 5.7 (alt. 5.10a) Up and L through the easy ground until the Whale-Back arête leads up and R to a small stance. At the top of the arete, move R to belay from a piton above the twisted cedar tree. An alternate pitch - The crack on R (5.10a).

12. 5.10a Climb the crack system above the gnarled route and over the piton. Sustained climbing takes you to a big ledge and a bolted belay.

13. 5.8 On the R of the ledge, a crawl space on a sloped ramp leads to a rock mount, from where you can step across to the far face of a deep chimney.

The original final pitch moved up the face directly above and behind the crack of the previous pitch, avoiding the chimney.

Alternate start to get around people:

1. 5.7 Step up R for a few metres to a small ledge, then up a dirty vegetated corner to a larger ledge.

2. 5.8 Starting on R. Blocky moves lead up to an obvious crack system finishing at base of angels crack.

best crack in squamish

Classic stem corner atop the Chief. Good small gear, bad small holds.

Shares start and end with North Star.

Standing start, up the arete

Sit start using R) hand sidepull, L) hand on lip. Pump up right, follow arete of 'You Got This'.

Using R) hand pinch, L) hand big edge, climb up the blunt arete. Use obvious block features on the upper section slab

Sit start on waist height rail. Straight up the face.

Start as for 'Dad'. Follow shelf left to finish as 'Remy's Arete'.

Sit start, L) lip, R)side pull. Follow arete up