Ascents in Central Apron having Beta

Lead all pitches

Goodtimes

First route in squam so good!

This is a super fun climb, pretty scary in a few spots, particularly around the end of a couple pitches with FA gear. Rescued a cute lil Z4 on pitch 5.

Changed my mind,I actually really like it.

Very slabby and a lot of traverses difficult to protect. I really didn't like it.

Awesome route,2 interesting cracks and a funny layback!also my first Trad lead in a multipitch

Felt pretty stiff

Fun climbing but a little spicy. Ran into a guy with a broken foot hobbling off the route.

Bring a black totem or small alien to protect in some piton scars

Good climbing overall, the layback on pitch 4 was the standout pitch

Got schooled. 'nuf said! Early bail out. Rappel station reachable at end of pitch 2

Crazy wet, but still sent. Pitch 4 end is the crux, black totem cam protects it well.

Decent climb wandering between other climbs. Route finding involved. The best pitches are the last three. Crux was the last few moves of P4.

It's also on that climb that I leaned SR means standard rack and not single rack. And Squamish SR is a few more cams than a single rack... Made it interesting.

all but last pitch

very wet, each crux was seeping, rained p2, hailed p4

A very good day was had although this is a very polished route.

A very good day was had although this is a very polished route.

Led 1,3,5. Last pitch pretty wet for added excitement. Also got a booty cam and caught a c3 that Dave dropped 30 m half way up the climb. Pleasant and fairly short cruxes

Calling this an OS cos I onsighted the 11b crux pitch at the top although I fell a number of times on a pitch lower down in the muggy heat with slippery slimey shoes. This route is runout.

Probably the best route on the Apron. And likely the most aesthetic route as well. Heady .10d climbing on tiny (though probably bomber... but still who wants to find out!) gear. Fucking amazing position. Led the Houdini arete mantle .11b pitch and slab above (the slab is actually the crux) though not clean. My Apron multi-pitch slab project for the year.

fireball. Exact date unknown (check photos)

Seconded with one fall on the .10d pitch. Sent the crux without too much issue but it's very small and very techy!

Led pitches 3, 5 and 7. Great transition going from climbing a big dihedral, slowly changing to a slab over 7 pitches.

Good after a long night. More technical 3rd and 4th pitch than I remembered. Trickier than most 5.9s around.

Car to car in 3.5 hours with Tim

Only did first pitch (10c??), sortof by accident...And skipped to the right at the top as it was wet and slimy!

great climb....if there is nobody in front of you....

good if you like slab

beautiful, 6 pitches, solid, first climb in Canada for me

love the traverse...

Beautiful line - I'd take it over Dierdre any day

I lead the 2nd and the 4th pitch of this classic