Ascents in 茄子山

好难…………………

5点多出门，6点多开始爬，到顶3点半，下来已经7点半了，十三个小时的挣扎，下降得趁早。挂抓的数量不多但抓了，或者说抓了但抓的数量不算太多哈哈哈

拖了两天补给跟吊帐到第八段，然后休息一天后爬，爬的总用时42小时，带上吊帐爬线就挺艰难的

轻装快速，一日往返

The approach was OK, the trail was clearly marked with red tapes. Try not to go down in the dark, although it’s still OK to do it. Pay attention to and follow the red tags.

Day 1: Pitch 1 - 4, hauling bags to the top took a lot of time and effort. In hindsight it would’ve been better to not haul the bags but to carry them on our shoulders instead. Pitch 1 - 4 are rather short. Spent a night at pitch 4.

Day 2: Started climbing at 7am, completed pitch 5 - 19 in about 7 hours or so (Maybe more including wayfinding of pitch 19) Pitch 19 was not obvious to find. We went left from pitch 18 where we should’ve gone right.

7 simul raps from pitch 19 all the way down the ground with 2 70m ropes (In the rain!) A team of 4 (2 groups)).

We were racing against the rain clouds, got rained off on the way down.

Blue Glacier is (apparently) China’s longest sport route, covering 19 pitches of golden granite slab. We climbed the route over two days, with an overnight bivvy on the ledge above pitch four. We aided on all pitches where we failed to onsight.

4:45 a.m. Wake up

5:15 a.m. Start preparing

7:40 a.m. Begin pitch 5

2:20 p.m. Arrive at the large ledge below pitch 19, spend almost an hour finding pitch 19

3:20 p.m. Arrive at the top of pitch 19, summit

Detailed trip report: https://thecloudocean.com/2021/05/28/eggplant-mountain-may-2021/

大活儿必须细节纪录时间 能力不到位只好很无耻的一顿抓挂 期待下次free掉

4.35出发

4.45到达徒步起点

5.45到岩壁点

6.04开始攀爬

7.08pitch4平台

13.29登顶

13.47开始下降

15.43降到pitch4平台

16.21平台开始继续下降

16.42降到底

17.34下到底

总算拔草。

接近相当难走，但一路有红布条，不至于迷路。在起步点以后5分钟以内如果没切到右边红布条路线，可能就走错了。顺着流水沟一直走。

第五段前半段难点有绳子可以抓。

12a的那段用扁带做一个绳梯比较好aid挂下一把快挂。

第七段11b即使aid也没法作弊过，得有通过难点的能力，当然，挂绳器另说。

第十七段顶的单bolt有点蛋疼。为什么不多打一个呢？

第十三段避免冲坠，右边缝的岩石很锋利

国内少有可爬性高的运动攀大岩壁。目前速攀记录是3h45min