Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
鸡窝渡 Chicken Cave | |||||
5.8 | ★ Left Wing
Nice and easy. starts outside the wall left side. FA: Paul Collis & Eman Lacoste, 2005 | 23m, 7 | |||
5.5 | Juicy Lucy
starts inside and on top of the wall. merges with Left Wing. FA: Paul Collis & Bob Keaty, 2005 | 18m, 5 | |||
5.10b | ★★ Weekend Warriors
shared start with SUBARU. FA: Paul Collis & Bob Keaty, 2005 | 24m, 11 | |||
5.12a | ★★ See You At The Party Richter!
This climb starts at the top of Weekend Warriors. FA: Marcelo Berti Lungo, 2011 | 11m, 4 | |||
5.11b | ★★ Subaru
Excellent climbing and a great photo opportunity! Steep climbing on big holds ends with a tricky balancy crux on small holds. Possibly harder then the grade suggests. FA: Hiroe Takezawa & Soichiro Fukuda, 2007 | 21m, 10 | |||
5.12c | ★★ Snowden's Disco Ball
Extension of Subaru. Set: Andrew FA: TJ, 2015 | 13m, 6 | |||
5.12a/b | ★★ Calamity Jane
Feels like 12b/12c for some people. but many have confirmed that it is around 12a. just very unusual. Starting with easy climbing, coming into the steep part with good holds followed by a bouldery part with small edges and a foothook to accelerate dynamically to a big jug. Topping out is not that difficult any more. (Martin) Set: Andrew | 20m, 7 | |||
5.12a | ★★ Lily
easy run out start into a steep roof. FA: Mark Garthwaite, 2005 | 20m, 5 | |||
5.12d | ★★★ Grievous Bodily Harm
The gem of the cave... FA: Seb Grieve, 2005 | 20m, 6 | |||
5.12c | ★★★ Weakened Warriors
The horizontal crack in the roof deep in the cave. right to left. Set: Eman Lacoste & Paul Collis, 2005 | 15m, 7 | |||
5.13a | ★★★ Rooster
The link up of Weakened Warriors and Grievous Bodily Harm. FA: Logan Barber | 20m, 12 | |||
5.13b | ★★★ Funky Chicken
FFA: Cheng Xie Wei, 2008 | 23m, 13 | |||
5.12d | ★★ White Tiger (1st anchor)
Finishes before final boulder FA: Shinsuke Kimura, 2007 | 20m, 10 | |||
5.13b | ★★★ White Tiger
FA: Shinsuke Kimura, 2007 | 25m, 11 | |||
5.4 | Dirty Annie
on the cave's right side, it's the big ramp. FA: Paul Collis & Bai Long | 15m, 5 | |||
5.10a | 西游记Journey to the West
FA: ola Set: Jerry zhong, 15 May 2022 | 5 | |||
5.11c | ★★ Achterlijke Malloten
Short, steep boulder problem on dusty holds FA: Peter Staves & Hotrocks, 2009 | 10m, 3 | |||
5.11b | ★ Scary Mary
climb either Dirty Annie or Clean Jean to access this fun traverse. climbs right to left. FA: Dan Hannah, Paul Collis & Matt Warner, 2008 | 24m, 6 | |||
5.10d | ★ Clean Jean
FA: Nathan Johnson, Paul Collis & Peter Baher | 18m, 9 | |||
5.10a | ★★ Team Sweden
Interesting FA: Jenny Korlin & Jessica Nyeberd | 17m, 7 | |||
5.11a | ★ Frank's Flake
Careful with the height and rope length..seriously. Also, just above the ledge at 10m some of the rock is loose with a high bolt. FA: Simon Dilks & Frank Carn Prior | 31m, 11 | |||
5.9 | ★ Turd Burglar
One tricky move at the start ends with two possible variations to reach the anchor. FA: TonTon, Paul Collis & Matt Warner | 16m, 6 | |||
5.10c | ★★ Tufa Rufa
A steep start leads to beautiful easy stalactite climbing. Beware the big block with the big X on it. It could kill a water buffalo or anything else that might be in the way at the bottom of the hill. FA: Paul Collis, Matt Warner & Ton Ton, 2008 | 17m, 7 | |||
5.10d | ★★ Jugtastic
Steep and pumpy. This route is called "Jugtastic" for its plentiful large juggy holds. FA: Paul Collis & Matt Warner, 2008 | 15m, 7 | |||
太空站 Space Buttress | |||||
5.10a | ★ Shenzhou Qi Hao
Nice for a warm up. FA: Andy Halkyard, Paul Collis & Alice Ng, 2009 | 18m, 10 | |||
5.11c | ★ Close Encounters
Start up Supernova for the first 3 bolts, then go left above the first roof. 5.11d in the first topo FA: P Collis, B Keaty & T Ton, 2008 | 30m, 13 | |||
5.11a | ★★ Into Thin Air
1
5.11a
25m
2
5.10c
18m
Extension of Close Encounters / Super Encounters. FA: Eben Farnworth & Geordie Yip, 2010 | 43m, 2 | |||
5.10d | Super Encounters
This climb shares the same start as "Supernova" then traverses left, then up and over a roof. A hold may have broken at the roof and the route may be harder then graded. 5.10c in the former topo. FA: Franco Bigazzi & Paul Collis | 28m, 12 | |||
5.9 | ★★ Supernova
Nice flake climbing. Its a pity this route is so short. FA: Paul Collis & pia Hockert | 16m, 7 | |||
5.12a | ★★ Man or Astroman
FA: Tyson Wallace & Paul Qiu, 2008 | 25m, 10 | |||
5.11b | Ass Roid Belt
1
5.11b
25m
2
5.11b
12m
FA: Colton Lindeman, 2008 | 37m, 2 | |||
5.11c | ★★ First Contact
FA: Colton Lindeman & Dave Gliddon, 2008 | 18m, 7 | |||
5.13a | ★★★ First Contact Extension
FA: Colton Lindeman & Dave Gliddon, 2008 | 35m, 2, 14 | |||
5.10b | ★★★ Injury Time
Loose rock FA: Jia Explorer & Erin, 2008 | 17m, 5 | |||
5.12a | ★★ Space Walk
FA: Paul Collis, Bob Keaty & Qiu Xiang, 2008 | 35m, 14 | |||
5.10a | ★★★ Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster
1
5.10a
20m
2
5.9
20m
FA: Eben Farmworth & Geordie Yip FA: Paul Collis & Bob Keaty, 2008 | 40m, 2 | |||
5.10d | ★★★ Starship Entreprise
5.10c in the old topo. This climb is located directly left of Klingon. FA: Paul Collis & Franco Bigazzi, 2008 | 25m, 9 | |||
5.10c | ★★ Klingon
A bouldery start leads to a crux mid way up. FA: Paul Collis, Bob Keaty & Josh Wiseman | 22m, 9 | |||
5.9 | ★★ Aliens in Yangshuo
Lovely climb at the grade. FA: Rozzie Tam, Paul Collis & Bob Keaty | 20m, 8 | |||
5.11a | ★★★ Interstalagtic Cruiser
1
5.8
12m
2
5.11a
25m
The second pitch is stella. 2nd pitch was 5.11b in the former topo. FA: Paul Collis, Bob Keaty, Claire Tetley & TonTon | 37m, 2 | |||
5.10a | ★ Dark Star (pitch 1)
FA: Paul Collis & TonTon | 15m | |||
5.10b | ★★★ Dark Star (pitch 2)
FA: Bob Keaty & Paul Collis | 27m | |||
5.9 | ★ The Milky Way
1
5.9
15m
2
5.8
19m
FA: Paul Collis, TonTon & Dan Hannah | 34m, 2 | |||
5.8 | World of Delusion
FA: Paul Collis & Jim Gray, 2008 | 15m, 6 | |||
5.10d | ★★ Schermuly
FA: Paul Collis & Jim Gray, 2007 | 25m, 10 | |||
5.9 | ★ Life on Mars
FA: Paul Collis & Bob Keaty, 2007 | 25m, 9 | |||
5.10a | ★★ Extended Dimension
FA: Bob Keaty & Paul Collis, 2007 | 25m, 9 | |||
矮山 Low Mountain | |||||
5.12a | Creative Imagination
on the left side of main wall. now has anchor half way up. belay is amidst the forest. FA: CMDI Ozark, 2009 | 20m, 7 | |||
5.10c | ★★ Power Struggle
FA: cmdi | 18m, 8 | |||
未知1
左边是5.10c,右边是裂缝5.11a,保护位置在洞底,据说是5.12线路。 | |||||
5.11a | ★★ 未知2
很明显的裂缝线路,顶在飞拉达下降位置的下方一点点。 | ||||
5.11a | ★★★ Dance! Dance! Dance!
In the corner very near the start of a zipline and a man-made cave entrance. Set: Andrew | 25m, 8 | |||
5.11c | ★★★ Touching The Cloth
the face to the right of the corner and man-made entrance. FA: James Murphy, Karen Potts & Roland, 2004 | 20m, 9 | |||
5.10b | ★ My Dad's Bigger Than Your Dad
FA: James Murphy, Karen Potts & Roland, 2004 | 20m, 7 | |||
5.9 | ★ Lazy Days
FA: Paul Collis & Lao Gan Ma, 2004 | 24m, 9 | |||
5.8 | ★ The Footsteps of Our Ancestors
FA: Paul Collis & Lao Gan Ma, 2004 | 21m, 6 | |||
5.12a | ★★ Low Mt's Not So Low
Continue above the anchor of AF. FA: Zhao Si, Jun 2022 | 40m, 17 | |||
5.10b | ★ Ten Thousand
FA: Oliver Balmer, Echo Woo & Shunbin, 2004 | 21m, 8 | |||
5.12c | ★★ 未知4
| ||||
5.10a | ★ Sheriff Fatman 胖警察
FA: James Murphy, Karen Potts & Roland, 2004 | 15m, 6 | |||
5.12b | Principles office
FA: zhangyong | ||||
5.12b | ★★★ Ice-Cream Cone
Breaks right from the start of SF FA: ZhangYong, 2018 | 25m, 10 | |||
5.10a | ★★ In and Out
FA: Olivier Balma & Polina Brodowski, Nov 2014 | 12m, 5 | |||
5.11b | ★★ Die Another Day
FA: Paul Collis, James Bond & James Murphy, 2004 | 18m, 7 | |||
5.12b | ★★ 明日再死
the extension to "Die Another Day" | ||||
5.11a | ★★ The Pig Emperor 猪八戒
FA: Dave Gliddon & Tyson, 2005 | 20m, 8 | |||
5.11d | 未知3
线路下方写着5.11d,顶在Flake Out的顶旁边。 FA: Zhang Yong | 20m, 9 | |||
5.10c | ★★★ Flake Out
FA: Paul Collis, Yang Ai Hu & Lily Lao Gan Ma Grigri, 2004 | 20m, 10 | |||
5.11a | ★ I forgot the name
This has become P1 of Monkey King. FA: GuGu, 2009 | 20m, 8 | |||
5.10a | ★ The Monkey King - Pitch 1 Only
THIS ROUTE DOESN'T EXIST FA: Paul Collis & Liu Tao, 2004 | 20m, 8 | |||
5.10b | ★★ The Monkey King
1
-
20m
2
5.9
12m
3
5.10a
20m
4
5.10b
25m
5
5.8
15m
The 1st pitch USED TO be a 5.10a, starting by climbing a dead tree at the base of the climb. The tree has been removed and replaced by the Via-ferrata entrance. (DO NOT CLIMB THE VIA FERRATA W/O PERMISSION). The new route uses Forgotten Name as the first pitch, with P2-P5 remaining unchanged. The route and anchors stop approximately 50m before the top of the tower. Adding a tick (logging an ascent) of this route requires using the link up feature and listing Forgotten Name in place of the first pitch. FA: Paul Collis, Liu Tao, Sylvain Langris & Oliver Balmer, 2004 | 92m, 5 | |||
5.10a | The Naked Ape (TR)
THIS ROUTE DOESN'T EXIST FA: Paul Collis & Liu Tao, 2004 | 22m | |||
5.10b | ★★ Chinese Rose
1
5.10a
28m
2
5.8
15m
3
5.10a
30m
4
5.9
18m
5
5.10b
28m
From the ViaFerrata access, go right 30m and find a small plaque. these 2 routes start here. FA: Kolon Alpine School, Nov 2015 | 120m, 5 | |||
5.10c | ★ Korean Rose
1
5.9
27m
2
5.10b
32m
3
5.9
17m
4
5.8
20m
5
5.10c
21m
6
5.7
17m
From the ViaFerrata access, go right 30m and find a small plaque. these 2 routes start here. From half way up the 4th pitch the route veers left through some bushes which may be hard to see. FA: Kolon Alpine School, Nov 2015 | 130m, 6 | |||
5.8 | ★★ L'Echo des Montagnes
1
5.8
25m
2
5.7
40m
3
5.7
30m
4
5.7
25m
5
5.8
30m
FA: Sylvain Langris & Olivier Balmer, 2004 | 150m, 5 | |||
5.12a/b | 直上元宵
张勇在元宵节开辟了某条5.11a的延长线,未FA Set: 张勇, 26 Feb 2021 | 28m | |||
图腾柱 Totem Pole | |||||
5.11a | ★ New Men Are Coming
Splits left above P1 of Le Nitrac. FA: Jonas Bruchhagen & Richard Grob | 20m, 9 | |||
5.10b | Le Nitrac
1
5.10b
20m
2
5.10a
17m
3
5.10a
17m
4
5.9
17m
First pitch goes up then traverses right. There will be some loose bits of rock but its manageable. climb slow and deliberate. 2nd and 3rd pitches are sharp but enjoyable climbing. last pitch has a couple bolts run out on easy terrain with an anchor very far to the right. route does not top out the mountain. FA: Richard & Jonas, 2012 FFA: 2012 | 71m, 4 | |||
5.10c | ★★ Bald Eagles
FA: Gao Qing, Paul Collis & B Keaty | 20m, 10 | |||
5.11a | ★★★ Trail of Tears
FA: Paul Collis, M Warner, TonTon & B Keaty | 25m, 12 | |||
5.10c | ★★ Fire Water
This route starts 10m up the wall. need to walk around left and into the cave. Belay from cave window in the center of the crag. FA: Matt Warner, Paul Collis & Bob Keaty | 25m, 10 | |||
5.10c | ★★ A Man Called Ma
FA: Matt Warner & Paul Collis | 20m, 10 | |||
5.10b | ★★ Smoke Signals
FA: Paul Collis & Tyson Wallace | 17m, 8 | |||
5.10d | ★★ Skin Walker
FA: Tyson Wallace & Paul Collis | 17m, 8 | |||
5.10c | ★★ Tomahawk
FA: Paul Collis & Tyson Wallace | 17m, 9 | |||
龙城 Dragon City | |||||
5.10a | ★ Caterpillars in My Underwear
30 meters to the left of the hangout. climb 5 meters up through the jungle to reach a ledge belay. FA: Qiu Jiang, 2013 | 30m, 13 | |||
5.10c | ★ Dreyer Eyes
30 meters to the left of the hangout. climb 5 meters up through the jungle to reach a ledge belay. FA: Qiu Jiang | 30m, 14 | |||
5.10d | ★ 9.8066 m/s
30 meters to the left of the hangout. climb 5 meters up through the jungle to reach a ledge belay. FA: Qiu Jiang | 30m, 13 | |||
5.11b | ★★ Where's the Beef?
30 meters to the left of the hangout. climb 5 meters up through the jungle to reach a ledge belay. FA: Qiu Jiang | 25m, 13 | |||
5.12a | ★ Wall Street
30 meters to the left of the hangout. climb 5 meters up through the jungle to reach a ledge belay. FA: Qiu Jiang | 25m, 14 | |||
5.10c | ★★★ Fashion Dragon
fun climbing powerful at the end FA: Qiu Jiang & Tyson Wallace | 25m, 10 | |||
5.12a | ★★ Little Pussy
Shared anchor with Fashion Dragon FA: William Chan, Nov 2014 | 25m, 10 | |||
5.12b | ★★★ 愤怒的小鸟 Angry Bird
FA: Qiu Jiang & Tyson Wallace | 25m, 13 | |||
5.13c | Dougs Dungeon
FA: Dave Gliddon Set: dawei | 30m, 15 | |||
5.12c | ★★ Double Dragon
FA: Dave Gliddon | 30m, 13 | |||
5.10a | ★ Stairway to Heaven
FA: Dave Gliddon & Adam GoHard | 19m, 6 | |||
Alors On Danse (Let's Dance)
extension to "stairway to heaven"...OPEN project Set: Dave Gliddon & Adam GoHard | 35m, 16 | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Dave's Dungeon
Set: Dave Gliddon | 18m, 7 | |||
5.13c | ★ Dungeon Master
Extension of Dave's Dungeon FA: Dave Gliddon | 40m, 16 | |||
5.10b | ★★ 羊归山 Sheep, come back to the mountain!
Set: Jerry zhong FA: AntonioAnuk | 20m, 8 |