Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Thu 16th May 2024 - 黎明 Liming | |||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 松顶拱壁区 Pinecrest Buttress | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ The Great Owl - with Tommy | 28m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Remarkably aesthetic, a gorgeous splitter crack.
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Thu 16th May 2024 - 黎明 Liming | |||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 原始北区 Primitive Area North | |||||||
5.11+ | ★★ I Don’t Like Chickens - with Kerry | 17m | |||||
Thu 16th May 2024 - 黎明 Liming | |||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 松顶拱壁区 Pinecrest Buttress | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ The Great Owl - with Eric | 28m | |||||
5.12a | ★★ The Reckoning-half 终审判决第一段 - with 小草 | 20m | |||||
Thu 16th May 2024 - 黎明 Liming | |||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | |||||||
5.11b | ★★★ Clam Digger - with Eric | 25m | |||||
5.12b | ★★★ Over the Rainbow - with 小草 | 20m | |||||
5.11c | Born to Be Wild - with Dahlia | 20m | |||||
5.12b | ★★★ The Funky Dan - with Eric | 32m | |||||
5.10a | ★★ Sandworm - with Dahlia | 30m | |||||
5.12a/b | ★★ Morass and The Balance of Power Extension - with Eric | 35m, 4 | |||||
5.12b | Yellow Brick Road Rage - with 國勝 | 5 | |||||
Wed 15th May 2024 - 黎明 Liming | |||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Jerry's Got Worms - with Tommy | ||||||
Offwidth, a bit of elevator door, a secure fist jam, good hand jams, and a beached whale finish. Very physical!
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5.11- | ★★ Zhoulei's Flake - with Tommy | ||||||
Above the wide crack this route feels like a sport climb protected by gear. The pure crack routes at much lower grades are harder than this one, for me.
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Wed 8th May 2024 - 黎明 Liming | |||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Deception - with Tommy | ★★ Very Good | |||||
My onsight attempt ended with a fall onto my cam at the awkward crux. This route taught me that the most obvious gear placement can sometimes block a key hold.
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5.9 |
★★ Screaming at the Moon
- with
Tommy
1
5.9
| 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
The lower half of the route was challenging for me, sustained hand and foot jams.
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Sun 5th May 2024 - 黎明 Liming | |||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 原始北区 Primitive Area North | |||||||
5.10+ | ★★★ The Raven (half) | 18m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Sun 5th May 2024 - 黎明 Liming | |||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 松顶拱壁区 Pinecrest Buttress | |||||||
5.10+ ~5.11- | ★★★ Scarface 2 | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Sun 5th May 2024 - 黎明 Liming | |||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Sandworm | 30m | |||||
5.11 ~5.11+ | ★★ Index 5.11 | 11m, 4 | Average | ||||
5.10+ ~5.11- | ★★ Faraway Corner | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
5.10a | ★★ Screaming at the Moon | 30m | |||||
Sat 4th May 2024 - 黎明 Liming | |||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 原始北区 Primitive Area North | |||||||
5.8 ~5.10a | ★★ Through the Looking Glass | 14m | |||||
Sat 4th May 2024 - 黎明 Liming | |||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | |||||||
5.10c ~5.10a | ★★ Morass | 20m | |||||
5.9 | ★★ Deception | ||||||
Fri 3rd May 2024 - 黎明 Liming | |||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 原始北区 Primitive Area North | |||||||
5.10+ ~5.11- | ★★★ The Raven (half) — 2 attempts | 18m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
One of the best routes here, you can't miss it in lead go!
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Fri 3rd May 2024 - 黎明 Liming | |||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 松顶拱壁区 Pinecrest Buttress | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ The Great Owl | 28m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
第一条裂缝,太好玩了,窄缝还不知道怎么爬,拉上去了,掌缝找到感觉
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Wed 1st May 2024 - 黎明 Liming | |||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 松顶拱壁区 Pinecrest Buttress | |||||||
5.10+ | ★★★ Scarface 2 - with 陈阳 | 25m | |||||
年检过关。
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Wed 1st May 2024 - 黎明 Liming | |||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | |||||||
5.11c | Born to Be Wild - with Dahlia Wong | 20m | |||||
日腿给挂的顶绳,必须做个快乐顶绳仔。屋檐下横切的时候有点子吓人哦。
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5.10 | ★★ Highway to Hell - with 陈阳 | 35m | |||||
去年春天跟攀吓尿的线,今年游刃有余了一些。技术有没有长进不好说,精神层面看来有了些长进。
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5.10a ~5.11a | ★★ Sandworm | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Much harder than how it looks, as hard as a 11.a jamming up.
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5.10c ~5.10d | ★★ Morass | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Nice warm up route, half trad half sports, original grading 10.d seems correct.
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5.10+ ~5.11 | ★★ Faraway Corner | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Nice route,it is 6b+/6c route, so should be the same as the original grading 11a/b
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Sun 28th Apr 2024 - 黎明 Liming | |||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 原始北区 Primitive Area North | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Through the Looking Glass - with 行动 | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 27th Apr 2024 - 黎明 Liming | |||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | |||||||
5.11 | ★★ Index 5.11 - with 熊灏源 | 11m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Recommend to use clip stick for first quick draw
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Sat 13th Apr 2024 - 黎明 Liming | |||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 原始北区 Primitive Area North | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Through the Looking Glass — 2 attempts - with 行动 | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fri 12th Apr 2024 - 黎明 Liming | |||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | |||||||
5.10d | Ding Dong Goes to the USA - with Lukas | 10m | |||||
Thu 11th Apr 2024 - 黎明 Liming | |||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | |||||||
5.11 | ★★ Index 5.11 - with Lukas | 11m, 4 | |||||
5.10+ | ★★ Faraway Corner - with Lukas | 15m | |||||
5.11b | ★★★ Clam Digger - with Lukas | 25m | |||||
5.10c | ★★ Morass - with Lukas | 20m | |||||
Wed 10th Apr 2024 - 黎明 Liming | |||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | |||||||
5.12a/b | ★★ Morass and The Balance of Power Extension | 35m, 4 | |||||
5.10c | ★★ Morass | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
2nd pitch also Nice. Fall on quality 7b 2 crux nice for short routes.
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5.12a/b | ★★ Morass and The Balance of Power Extension - with Petch Viwatsinudom | 35m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
second pitch I fall on Balance one.
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5.10c | ★★ Morass - with Petch Viwatsinudom | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Flashed on lead! and then tried second pitch!
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5.10+ | ★★ Faraway Corner - with Petch Viwatsinudom | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I practiced how to put the cams before Lead sent!
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5.10 | ★★ Highway to Hell - with Petch Viwatsinudom | 35m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Just did last route for the day!
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5.10+ | ★★ Faraway Corner - with Petch Viwatsinudom | 15m | |||||
Wed 10th Apr 2024 - 黎明 Liming | |||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 原始北区 Primitive Area North | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Through the Looking Glass | 14m | ★ Good | ||||
Wed 10th Apr 2024 - 黎明 Liming | |||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 松顶拱壁区 Pinecrest Buttress | |||||||
5.10+ Hard | ★★ Boy with a Coin | 25m | |||||
5.8 | ★★ Welcome to Liming | 12m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.9 | ★★★ The Great Owl | 28m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.9 | ★★★ The Great Owl | 28m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Tue 9th Apr 2024 - 黎明 Liming | |||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 松顶拱壁区 Pinecrest Buttress | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ The Great Owl | 28m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Tue 9th Apr 2024 - 黎明 Liming | |||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | |||||||
5.10 | ★★ Highway to Hell | 35m | ★ Good | ||||
5.10+ | ★★ Faraway Corner | 15m | |||||
5.10+ | ★★ Faraway Corner | 15m | |||||
5.10a | ★★ Screaming at the Moon | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
so scary jam & hard early crux. I need protection carefully.
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5.10c | ★★ Morass - with Petch Viwatsinudom | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I tried how to put cams.
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5.10a | ★★ Screaming at the Moon - with Petch Viwatsinudom | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I tried second times for practice hand and foot jam
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5.10a | ★★ Screaming at the Moon - with Petch Viwatsinudom | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
My first time trying trad climbing but I still couldn't do hands jam. I send because I did lay back
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5.10a | ★★ Sandworm | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Mon 8th Apr 2024 - 黎明 Liming | |||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 松顶拱壁区 Pinecrest Buttress | |||||||
5.10+ | ★★ Boy with a Coin | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mon 8th Apr 2024 - 黎明 Liming | |||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 原始北区 Primitive Area North | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Through the Looking Glass | 14m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.10+ | ★★★ The Raven (half) | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mon 8th Apr 2024 - 黎明 Liming | |||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 松顶拱壁区 Pinecrest Buttress | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ The Great Owl - with Petch Viwatsinudom | 28m | ★ Good | ||||
When you don't know how to good hands and feet jamming. I really not good
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5.10+ | ★★ Boy with a Coin - with Petch Viwatsinudom | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mon 8th Apr 2024 - 黎明 Liming | |||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 原始北区 Primitive Area North | |||||||
5.10+ | ★★★ The Raven (half) - with Petch Viwatsinudom | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.8 | ★★ Through the Looking Glass - with Petch Viwatsinudom | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
My first attempt fell by first cam (Slippery) then I started again and send in 2 tried!
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Mon 8th Apr 2024 - 黎明 Liming | |||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | |||||||
5.10+ | ★★ Dirt Devil | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Staircase of the Elves | 10m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.10a | ★★ Sandworm - with Lukas | 30m | |||||
Sun 7th Apr 2024 - 黎明 Liming | |||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 松顶拱壁区 Pinecrest Buttress | |||||||
5.10+ | ★★★ Scarface 2 | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sun 7th Apr 2024 - 黎明 Liming | |||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | |||||||
5.10+ | ★★ Faraway Corner - with Lukas | 15m | |||||
5.10a |
★★ Screaming at the Moon
- with
Lukas
1
5.9
2
5.10a
| 30m | |||||
Sun 7th Apr 2024 - 黎明 Liming | |||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 原始北区 Primitive Area North | |||||||
5.11+ | ★★ I Don’t Like Chickens - with Jo, 曹佳 | 17m | |||||
在本次黎明之行连爬到第七八九天的时候开始project这条线。一开始只是为了阿楚小飞机的装逼照开始先锋,后面认真起来发现这条线顶绳和先锋根本不是一个感觉。总共爬了十把,每一把都在总结经验:屋檐难点处放塞子的位置,快挂要不要延长,怎么延长才不会挡住上脚位置,左手勒到什么高度就必须得上脚了不然整个身体打直会丧失上脚空间,难点是涨脚还是涨小腿。总之这次是扎扎实实的为这条线努力过了,过难点几乎每把都是五六米的大冲坠,左胳膊左腿蹭的伤痕累累,临走前最后一把完成真开心。是条值得爬的好线,虽然缝里面的侧拉点让它不能算是真正意义上的宽缝,但我觉得难点对身高170以下的选手来说可能会相对更难一些,即使用了侧拉点。
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Tue 2nd Apr 2024 - 黎明 Liming | |||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | |||||||
Belly Lovin | 10m | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Bush Remedy | 20m | |||||
5.10a | ★★ Sandworm | 30m | |||||
Mon 1st Apr 2024 - 黎明 Liming | |||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | |||||||
5.10+ | ★★ Faraway Corner - with 九一 | 15m | |||||
上次顶绳摸过的线,这次来爬了两把,第一把放了.3之后失忆了出错手冲了,第二把收。从难点放了.5之后一路冲到第一个休息小平台放的.75,我觉得还好挺稳的,保护员薛微有点儿受了惊吓。
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5.9 |
★★ Screaming at the Moon P1
- with
赵晨ZhaoChen
1
5.9
| 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mon 1st Apr 2024 - 黎明 Liming | |||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 松顶拱壁区 Pinecrest Buttress | |||||||
5.10+ | ★★★ Scarface 2 — 3 attempts - with 曹佳 | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
爬的很难得一条10
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5.9 | ★★★ The Great Owl | 28m | |||||
5.10+ | ★★★ Scarface 2 | 25m | |||||
Mon 1st Apr 2024 - 黎明 Liming | |||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 原始北区 Primitive Area North | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Through the Looking Glass | 14m | |||||
Sat 30th Mar 2024 - 黎明 Liming | |||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ Morass | 20m | |||||
5.10+ | ★★ Faraway Corner | 15m | |||||
5.10a | ★★ Screaming at the Moon | 30m | |||||
5.10a | ★★ Screaming at the Moon | 30m | |||||
Fri 29th Mar 2024 - 黎明 Liming | |||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 原始北区 Primitive Area North | |||||||
5.13d ~5.13+ | ★★★ The Black Hole — 8 attempts - with 曹佳 | 75m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
这条线路大概80米长度,前面两段难度11,大概40米,后面一段可能40米左右,难度13+,2017年西班牙Raúl首攀,Tony老师拍摄纪录片“黑洞”,线路用到7号到00号塞子,各种尺寸都要会爬,前面7-4号塞比较费耐力,后面比较靠能力,爬到最后两米一个动态动作,比较考心理,在这条裂缝里攀爬就像是掉进一个无尽的黑洞,非常煎熬,时间很漫长,这条线路对我来说绝对是裂缝技术的一个突破。
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Thu 28th Mar 2024 - 黎明 Liming | |||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | |||||||
5.11d | ★★ Children of the Plague - with 日子 | 40m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
到达Krypton Corner效率最高的一条线 全程40米 再爬一段5.8的传统就可以到达Krypton Corner的起点
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Mon 25th Mar 2024 - 黎明 Liming | |||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 松顶拱壁区 Pinecrest Buttress | |||||||
5.10+ | ★★ Boy with a Coin - with 小熊 | 25m | |||||
其实是奔着硬币男孩延长线Gore去的 尝试把延长os一下 毕竟是个5.11– 看上去也就两米的仰角4号缝 但是挺难的其实 爬缝没爬过去😂 问了几个人 都说是layback过去的?🙃 这下我就放心了😂 另外爬Gore是要连爬 中间顶链是不能休息的
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Sat 23rd Mar 2024 - 黎明 Liming | |||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 松顶拱壁区 Pinecrest Buttress | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ The Great Owl - with 旻神 | 28m | |||||
Sat 23rd Mar 2024 - 黎明 Liming | |||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 原始北区 Primitive Area North | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Through the Looking Glass - with 我真不是长臂猿 | 14m | |||||
Sat 23rd Mar 2024 - 黎明 Liming | |||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Sandworm - with 文森 | 30m | |||||
5.10c | ★★ Morass - with 文森 | 20m | |||||
5.10+ | ★★ Faraway Corner - with 文森 | 15m | |||||
5.10a | ★★ Screaming at the Moon - with 我真不是长臂猿 | 30m | |||||
5.12b | Yellow Brick Road Rage | 5 | |||||
Thu 21st Mar 2024 - 黎明 Liming | |||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 松顶拱壁区 Pinecrest Buttress | |||||||
5.10+ | ★★★ Scarface 2 - with YuOZheng | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
好像难点跳了一个塞子,有个3号一直没用上。这线涨脚不疼,动作也不太难,就是挺累。来了黎明红的第一条线,感觉挺爽的。
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Thu 21st Mar 2024 - 黎明 Liming | |||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | |||||||
5.10 | ★★ Dancing with Dragons - with 杨斌 | 20m | |||||
顶绳爬了一把
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