Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Date | |||
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Europe Spain Catalunya Costa Daurada Vilanova de Prades El Camping | |||||||
6b | Revolution | 14m | Wed 2nd Oct 2013 | ||||
6b | Supersonix | 13m | Sat 28th Sep 2013 | ||||
6b | J M Jarree | 14m | Wed 2nd Oct 2013 | ||||
7a | Kriminal de Muntanya | 14m | Sat 28th Sep 2013 | ||||
6c+ | Damian | 14m | Sat 28th Sep 2013 | ||||
6b | Cabra | 14m | Sat 28th Sep 2013 | ||||
6a+ | Cabrita | 13m | Sat 28th Sep 2013 | ||||
Europe Spain Catalunya Costa Daurada Margalef Les Espadelles Racó de les Espadelles | |||||||
6c | ★★ Guirlache | 20m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | Mon 14th Oct 2013 | |||
7a 6c+ | ★★ Iler-Crack | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | Mon 14th Oct 2013 | |||
6c+ | ★★★ Chapalegre (Route#9) | 18m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | Mon 14th Oct 2013 | |||
Nice route. Didnt have the juice at the end of the day.
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7a | ★★ Reventuning | 19m, 7 | ★ Good | Mon 14th Oct 2013 | |||
6b+ | ★★ Ni pa mi (??) | 16m | ★ Good | Mon 14th Oct 2013 | |||
6b | ★★ Ni pa ti (Route#4) | 16m | ★★ Very Good | Mon 14th Oct 2013 | |||
6b | ★ No M'agradaria ser Martell | 16m | ★ Good | Mon 14th Oct 2013 | |||
Europe Spain Catalunya Costa Daurada Siurana Siuranella centre | |||||||
6a | ★★ El mareao | 25m | Average | Wed 2nd Oct 2013 | |||
This route may have been good. It was horrible and hot in the sun.Enjoyment level low....
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6a | ★★ arròs de llamàntol | 35m | ★ Good | Wed 2nd Oct 2013 | |||
Like a grade 18 trad route, with copious bolts. Nice.
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Europe Spain Catalunya Costa Daurada Mont-ral Per Dins | |||||||
6b | ★ Eau De Sovac | 14m | ★ Good | Thu 17th Oct 2013 | |||
Felt hard for 6b. Worthwhile though.
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6a+ | ★★★ Bad Religion | ★★★ Classic | Thu 17th Oct 2013 | ||||
This route is in a nice shady chasm, a good escape from the heat. Also a top route. Cranking up an aerete on sidepulls, very un limestone like.
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Europe Spain Catalunya Costa Daurada La Riba zona penya roja Penya Roja | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Directissima | ★★ Very Good | Thu 17th Oct 2013 | ||||
Nice long pitch. Either classic or polished choss depending on your point of view. Any route with ancient pitons gets thumbs up from me.
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6b+ | ★★ Directa Reus | ★★ Very Good | Thu 17th Oct 2013 | ||||
Only did first pitch, there was a warning note at the base about p2. Not sure why, the bolts looked fine. Gymnastic start on incut pockets.
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6b+ | ★★★ La Via De Bryan | ★★ Very Good | Thu 17th Oct 2013 | ||||
Great climbing again, but the sun was cooking. To hot to enjoy.
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Europe Spain Catalunya Costa Daurada Arboli El Falco | |||||||
6a+ | ★ ¿De Qué Vas? (De Que Vas?) | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | Sun 29th Sep 2013 | |||
6b+ | ★ Lusiernaga de la Noshe | 22m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 29th Sep 2013 | |||
I found the crux way hard.
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7b | ★★★ Jinja | 22m | ★★ Very Good | Mon 14th Oct 2013 | |||
Did all the moves, burly but doable. Not sure if ill have another go if we head back.
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7b | ★★ Vermella directa | 20m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 6th Oct 2013 | |||
Took a fall on the thin bouldery start, then easily 2nd try.
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7a | ★★ Salmo Ventitrés (Salmo Ventritres) | 20m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 6th Oct 2013 | |||
Had to work hard on this.
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7a+ | Animal | 40m | Don't Bother | Mon 14th Oct 2013 | |||
Thought this looked sweet. Did the first pitch of the 6c+ and was planning to link into this. Rock quality got poor before the roof, and there were people on the ground below. Ended up downclimbing to anchor. No chalk on it at all, I dont think it gets done.
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7a+ | ★★★ Pa Ella Y Pa Los Guiris | 27m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 6th Oct 2013 | |||
First try today.
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7a+ | ★★★ Pa Ella Y Pa Los Guiris | 27m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 29th Sep 2013 | |||
Best looking line at the crag. Gets progressively harder with height. Should have ticked it, but forgot a hold at the top. Next time.
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6c+ 7a | ★★ Trenca'm Els Pinyos | 60m | ★★ Very Good | Mon 14th Oct 2013 | |||
1st pitch only. Was going to link it into Animal.
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6c | ★★ Melissa | 22m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 6th Oct 2013 | |||
Got rained on just as things got slabby. Tenuous.
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6c | ★★★ La Millor De ... | 32m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | Mon 14th Oct 2013 | |||
The routes on this wall are all class.
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6c+ | ★★★ Haber Pedido Muerte | 36m, 14 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 6th Oct 2013 | |||
The thought crossed my mind near the top of this route that it might be the best pitch ive ever climbed. A full 40m of pockets, some filled with quartz crystals, a leaning overhanging arapalies like corner at the top. Get on it.
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7a | ★★★ Borinot | 35m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 29th Sep 2013 | |||
The extension has good climbing, but is a bit bouldery.
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6b+ | ★★★ Borinot First Pitch | 20m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | Sun 6th Oct 2013 | |||
6b+ | ★★★ Borinot First Pitch | 20m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | Sun 29th Sep 2013 | |||
Excellent climbing.
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7a+ | ★★★ Chanidanger | 35m | ★★★ Classic | Mon 14th Oct 2013 | |||
Another classic long pitch. A 70m rope will get you to the ground from the top anchor.
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Europe Spain Catalunya Costa Daurada Montsant Racó de Missa | |||||||
7a+ | ★★★ La terra promesa | 38m | ★★★ Classic | Fri 18th Oct 2013 | |||
Had a real crack at the onsight. Came off one move from a hands free rest 8m from the chain. Bugger. Another sustained pump fest on pockets.
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7b | ★★★ Catalonia is not Patagonia | 36m, 15 | ★★★ Classic | Sat 12th Oct 2013 | |||
Long 38m pitch, with only one vauge rest at half height. Got to cruxy bulge at 3/4 height on the flash, then dogged to the top. Fell of at the same spot 2nd try. Be ok if I could remember a sequence longer than 2 or 3 moves..... y
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7b | ★★★ Catalonia is not Patagonia | 36m, 15 | ★★★ Classic | Fri 18th Oct 2013 | |||
Came back for a quick razz on the last day. Bolt to bolted it and thought I had it sorted, but slipped out of the pockets leaving the crux bulge. Went to the top, then tried the crux again. Didnt feel like it was going to happen on link so bailed.
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7a | ★★★ !?! | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | Tue 1st Oct 2013 | |||
Amazing. I would give it a rare megaclassic rating if it didnt have 5m of easy ramp at the start. Pocket after pocket after pocket. Wow. Didnt feel much harder than the 6b+ warm ups. Might be just that the moves are more obvious and better chalked.
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7a 7a+ | ★★★ Purolitic | 35m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | Sat 12th Oct 2013 | |||
Only did pitch one. Great route on incut pockets.
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7a | ★★★ Rata arraconda | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | Tue 1st Oct 2013 | |||
Real fight for the o/s. Thin and hard for first 4 bolts, then pump management as the incut pockets arrive. Managed to find a mono pocket thumb jamb rest that saved the day. Cant say thats ever happened before. Bit sweaty in 31 degrees and in the sun.
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6b+ | ★★ Uf, va dir ell | 30m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | Tue 1st Oct 2013 | |||
Long pitch, pumpy around the bulge up high.
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6b+ | ★★ !!? | 32m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | Tue 1st Oct 2013 | |||
Pumpy as a warm up. Didnt look great from the ground but good climbing.
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6b+ | ★★ Antiparkes | 20m | ★ Good | Sat 12th Oct 2013 | |||
Warm up following a crack system. Ok climbing.
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6b+ | ★★ Així de bé | 30m, 15 | ★ Good | Tue 1st Oct 2013 | |||
Last route of the day. Ok, but pale in comparison to earlier routes. Felt hard for the grade, and very close to route on left.
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Europe Spain Aragon Huesca Rodellar El Delfin | |||||||
6c | ★★ Route #43 | 15m | ★ Good | Thu 19th Sep 2019 | |||
Felt a bit pumpy up high.
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6b+ | ★★ Tu aqui no has venido a escalar | 15m | ★ Good | Sun 22nd Sep 2019 | |||
Warm up. Had its moments.
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6a+ | ★★ Route #39 | 15m | ★★ Very Good | Thu 19th Sep 2019 | |||
I thought this was great. Nice position on the edge of the arch. Cool holds.
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6a+ | ★ Route #38 | 17m | ★ Good | Thu 19th Sep 2019 | |||
Struggled with the heat on this one. Felt hard.
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Europe Spain Aragon Huesca Rodellar Las Ventanas | |||||||
7a+ | ★ La bruja de blair | 20m | ★ Good | Mon 23rd Sep 2019 | |||
Needed a second day. Felt straightforward after sorting a better sequence for the moves to the right and back left at half height in the overhanging section.
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7a | ★★ Bis a bis | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | Thu 19th Sep 2019 | |||
Felt straightforward second go once I knew where the holds were. Not sure how some of the holds are managing to stay on but it was fun thrashing around on the steep top half on monster jugs.
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Europe Spain Aragon Huesca Rodellar Criminal Tango | |||||||
6c | ★ Aranmanoth | 20m | ★★ Very Good | Mon 23rd Sep 2019 | |||
Felt pretty burly with some powerful moves up the initial wall and corner. Good value.
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6b+ | ★★★ Roxy la palmera | 20m | ★★★ Classic | Mon 23rd Sep 2019 | |||
Awesome tufa feature. Felt hard, but then first route of the day always seems to.
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Europe Spain Aragon Huesca Rodellar Pince Sans Rire | |||||||
7a+ 7a+/b | ★★ The Far Faders West | 30m | ★ Good | Fri 20th Sep 2019 | |||
Rested my way to glory. Tough move at crux, but you get a full rest just before it, so hard to grade.
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7b+ | ★★★ Pince Sans Rire | 30m | ★★★ Classic | Tue 17th Sep 2019 | |||
According to Ryan even though I did all the moves first time it doesn't count as an onsight, because I may have rested on the top 5 bolts while stick clipping my way to glory. Who appointed him the style police? I now know how ondra must have felt at the world champs.
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6b+ | ★★ El Enano de Siberia | 20m | ★★★ Classic | Fri 20th Sep 2019 | |||
I thought this was excellent. Sustained tufa features at a low grade. Did get concerned at the top wondering where the anchors were. They eventually showed up.
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6c | ★ dimies y directes | 17m | ★★ Very Good | Tue 17th Sep 2019 | |||
Second go, got lost and pumped first time. No problem second go. In other news today is the first day I have slept in till after noon since I was in high school. Climbing from 3pm till 9pm is the future.
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6b+ | ★★ No hay pico con lagunas | 20m | ★ Good | Tue 17th Sep 2019 | |||
Great climbing. Scary holds though, not sure how they are stuck on.
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Europe Spain Aragon Huesca Rodellar Piton d'o Cuervo | |||||||
6a | Menese's Family | 15m | Average | Fri 20th Sep 2019 | |||
Putting the draws on so Ryan could try it. I may have done this before, as I think the anchor position must have been the inspiration for some of my 'crux is clipping the chain' new routes.
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Europe Spain Aragon Huesca Rodellar Nuit des Temps | |||||||
6b | ★★ Coup de Machete | 20m | ★ Good | Tue 17th Sep 2019 | |||
6b | ★★ Savane Esquise | 30m | ★★ Very Good | Tue 17th Sep 2019 | |||
Quality vertical wall.
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Europe Spain Aragon Huesca Rodellar Gran Boveda | |||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Sopas de ajo | 23m, 8 | Mon 16th Sep 2019 | ||||
Great looking line. Lots of contorting into the tufa system down low. Needed more clothing on to make it a bit more comfortable. Ran out of juice at the top of the tufa system.
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6c | ★★ Sabrosina (Unknown 6c) | 18m | ★★ Very Good | Mon 16th Sep 2019 | |||
Cool route. Fairly new so in good condition.
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Europe Italy Trentino-Alto Adige Trentino Nago Falesia Segrom Sector A | |||||||
6a+ | ★★★ Ruggero Lo Perfido | 23m | ★ Good | Tue 27th Aug 2019 | |||
Some nice bridging up the corner system. Hot and humid conditions were a bit of a struggle.
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6b+ | ★ Panorama | 20m | ★ Good | Tue 27th Aug 2019 | |||
Got a bit lost, got a bit sweaty, got a bit pumped, managed to pull it together second go.
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6b | ★ Chiedi A Beppo | 15m | ★ Good | Wed 28th Aug 2019 | |||
Did this twice, the second time to retrieve another parties draws.
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6b+ | ★★ Phantom | 20m | ★ Good | Tue 27th Aug 2019 | |||
Well, got shut down pretty hard on this.
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6a | ★★ Nuvola Rossa | 22m | ★★ Very Good | Tue 27th Aug 2019 | |||
Classic climbing, but really polished now. Shame because the holds are unique and amazing.
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6a | ★ Vogue | 20m | ★ Good | Wed 28th Aug 2019 | |||
Another super hot day. Short walk and lots of shade helped. These routes feel nails. Epic polish in placed means it's hard to trust feet or hands in the heat.
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Europe Greece Thessaly Upper Pinios Valley Meteora Southern Group Adrachti | |||||||
6a+ | ★★★ Gordian Knots - with roger | 40m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | Thu 26th Oct 2023 | |||
Worth the long wait. Climbed as single pitch (needs two or three long slings to manage rope drag). Felt hard for the grade, but brilliant positions. Crux was rapping off while using Rogers MegaJul. God I hate the thing. Roger wouldn't let me throw it into the jungle, so I had to throw it away onto a gravel path so Roger could retrieve it. I then offered him 100 euro to buy it off him so that I could smash it with a rock 'office space printer style'. He isn't selling. He has two and seems to insist his multi pitch partners use one. It's some form of pycopathy where he enjoys inflicting pain.
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6b | ★★ Silken Thread - with roger | 40m, 14 | ★ Good | Thu 26th Oct 2023 | |||
Climbed the first pitch (to anchors under the 7b). Tidy.
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7b | ★★ Via Scorpion - with roger | 40m, 15 | Thu 26th Oct 2023 | ||||
Had a play while waiting for other routes to become available. Sustained and difficult to read small pebble climbing.
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Europe Greece Peloponnese Arcadia Leonidio Kokkinovrachos Jupiter | |||||||
6c+ | ★ Aufzug zum Olymp - with gazz | 30m, 12 | ★ Good | Tue 8th Nov 2022 | |||
Looks like it has been cleaned and (re?) Bolted very recently. Really interesting climbing up a number or flake systems. Quality will improve as the dust clears from the cleaning.
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6c 6c/c+ | ★ Great Greece | 25m, 18 | Average | Mon 18th Nov 2019 | |||
This felt hard. Not a great warm up for me, and not of the quality of other routes we did. Some loose rock. I guess there was a reason it was one of the only routes free.
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6c+ | ★★ Metalizer - with gazz | 25m, 15 | ★★★ Classic | Tue 8th Nov 2022 | |||
Great climb, and a viable warm up. Builds in difficulty to a crux on smallish holds up high.
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7a+ | ★★ Clean Your Clock Ext - with gazz | 50m, 22 | ★★ Very Good | Tue 8th Nov 2022 | |||
Got about ten metres up the extension before a misread had me off. Wouldn't have lasted much longer anyway, it's pretty sustained up there.
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7a+ 7a/a+ | ★★ Clean Your Clock - with gazz | 25m, 16 | ★★ Very Good | Tue 8th Nov 2022 | |||
Fingery crux at the bottom, then a bouldery crux up high. Had to drop the clutch on the high crux.
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6c | ★★ 40:1 | 25m, 16 | ★★ Very Good | Mon 18th Nov 2019 | |||
Good climbing. Nice pockets and rock.
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7a 6c+/7a | ★★ Yorgos Bogos | 39m, 23 | ★★★ Classic | Mon 18th Nov 2019 | |||
Assumed the guidebook, which said 30m and 29 quickdraws, was wrong and took 20 quickdraws. It was wrong, but not about the number of draws. Looks like the anchor has been moved higher, and it's now a 40m pitch. Ordinary first 10 metres, then classic climbing above that.
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6c+/7a | ★★ Amiral Ext - with gazz | 40m | ★★ Very Good | Thu 17th Nov 2022 | |||
Had a crack at the insight, but blew it. Crux felt pretty tricky for 7a. I probably missed something.
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6b+/c | ★★ Amiral - with gazz | 25m, 16 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 17th Nov 2022 | |||
Not bad. I don't remember much about it....
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6b+/c | ★★ Lykakia - with gazz | 30m, 16 | ★ Good | Thu 17th Nov 2022 | |||
Last climbing day. Crag was quiet, great! Zero breeze, humid. Not great! Everyone else is smarter than me.... Route is a bit scrappy down low, but then is lovely climbing.
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Europe Greece Peloponnese Arcadia Leonidio Kokkinovrachos Mars Main | |||||||
7a | NASA | 30m, 16 | Average | Sun 11th Nov 2018 | |||
A chossy route on the far right. Beggars can't be choosers when it's a busy day. All the difficulty packed into the last 5 metres. Pulled to hard on a pocket. Ouch.
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6c | ★★★ Spaceman Spiff | 20m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | Sun 11th Nov 2018 | |||
Nice tufa action.
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6b+ | ★★★ Pontiki Sto Tiri (Ποντικι στο τηρι) | 20m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | Sun 11th Nov 2018 | |||
This sector is awesome. Bit of a circus though, with about 30 climbers and 20 routes.
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Europe Greece Peloponnese Arcadia Leonidio Kokkinovrachos Mars Left | |||||||
7a | ★★ Yoko M-ono | 22m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | Sun 11th Nov 2018 | |||
Far to tweaky for a warm up. Awesome sustained sequence on pockets. Would have loved to try it again, but not to be.
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Europe Greece Peloponnese Arcadia Leonidio Kokkinovrachos Olympos | |||||||
6c+ | ★ La mina - with gazz | 35m | ★ Good | Thu 17th Nov 2022 | |||
Memorable route. Fell of the boulder start. Stemmy palmmy cornering up high. Cool sector.
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Europe Greece Peloponnese Arcadia Leonidio Vaskina Twin Caves | |||||||
6c+ 6c | ★★ Psaromalis - with gaz | 20m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 15th Nov 2018 | |||
The top half is top quality climbing.
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7c | ★★ Bread & Salt - with gaz | 25m | ★ Good | Thu 15th Nov 2018 | |||
Crag was a heaving mass of people. This route had the advantage of being available. Thought it was a 7b. Wondered why the crux felt too hard!
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7a+ | ★★ Vromika Myala | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Thu 21st Nov 2019 | |||
The crowds departed and there was a rare period of time when this route is not being seiged. Had a nervous moment up high pulling into a wet slab, but held it together. Totally classic climbing. Looks from the ground to be a bit contrived (very close to a 5c bridging corner that you could use for a rest) but doesn't feel like it when climbing.
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5c | ★ Salate | 20m | ★ Good | Tue 26th Nov 2019 | |||
The line of the crag!
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6a+ | ★★ Peripatos | 20m | ★★ Very Good | Mon 25th Nov 2019 | |||
Excellent climbing. Felt a bit stiff and reachy on the headwall.
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6b | ★ Cripled - with gaz | 20m | ★ Good | Thu 15th Nov 2018 | |||
Had to use some finger locks. Felt very reachy and hard for the grade.
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6b+ | ★ Agrimi | 20m | ★ Good | Tue 26th Nov 2019 | |||
Saw a lass take a nice whip off this late in the day, looking at the chains but she couldn't release a hand to clip. It's side pulley up there.
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6b+ | ★ Agrimi | 20m | ★ Good | Mon 25th Nov 2019 | |||
My dream of flashing / onsighting every route at twin caves under 7b was brutally cut short. I only had a hand full of 5b's and 5c's to go! I wonder if I could bribe the guide book author to upgrade this route from 6b+ to 7b?
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6c | ★★ The Paradox of our Age | 30m, 13 | ★ Good | Mon 25th Nov 2019 | |||
Felt a bit tired towards the top. Had to downclimb to get out of trouble.
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6b+ | ★★ Π-Noccio (Π-occhio) | 18m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | Mon 25th Nov 2019 | |||
Nice technical wall climbing. Easier than it looks.
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6b+ 6b | ★★ Avgi - with gaz | 12m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 15th Nov 2018 |