Routes as alpine in Europe

Too popular.

TOPO

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/stuedlgrat-grossglockner/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Q4iLK8ADbE

Der Normalweg auf den Großglockner beginnt beim großen Parkplatz Lucknerhaus bei Kals und führt über die Lucknerhütte zur Stüdlhütte, über das Ködnitzkees zur Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte und von dort auf den Gipfel des Großglockners.

Genaue Tourenbeschreibung findet ihr auf Bergsteigen.com.

Information: https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/matterhorn-hoernligrat/

Schöne Gratkleterei die sich als Einsteigertour eignet. Zum Teil sehr exponierte Stellen. Zudem lässt der Fels das Legen von Schlingen, Keilen und Friends zu. Die schwierigste Seillänge an der Klagemauer ist 4b 2p.a. (6c+) und wird meist mit Hilfe der Haken/artificial climbing mit Schlingen (Leiter) bewältigt. Unmittelbar links bietet sich eine leichtere aber exponierte Umgehungsvariante an. Material: 8 Expressschlingen, ein Satz Keile (5-8), 2er Friend, 2-4 120cm Bandschlingen, 2-4 60cm Bandschlingen. (Klar, es kann auch weniger Material mitgenommen und auf das Legen von Zwischensicherungen verzichtet werden).

Ice couloir, narrow and up to 80 degrees. Very popular all year round. Belays for rappel down route if you turn around at top of couloir.

Best accessed from Aiguille du Midi ca. 1h over glacier. Need to have skills for glacier travel.

Climbing the ridge S to N involves some 4 climbing and 2 rappels along the ridge. Very scenic. Some loose rocks in places.

Classic alpine ridge. AD, 4, 40° Ice.

Description

Topo

Walk across several kilometers of crevasses on the Geant Glacier to reach Col d'Entrève. Then climb and follow the ridge to the summit. Traverse to the northern summit, then scramble down the northeast ridge. Descend for a while then, angling left reconnect with the traces leading to Col d'Entrèves. Use ice screws to protect a long steep traverse. Turn right to return to Rifugio Torino.

The normal way up Mt Blanc and used in descent for most cases. Normal starting point is Les Houches where you take the cable car and then train to Nid d'Aigle 2372m. There is a couloir below refuge Gouter that is exposed to stonefall, caution. From refuge Gouter 3817m follow rigde to Dome du Goûter then ridge to summit.

The Jubiläumsgrat ("Jubilee Ridge") or Jubiläumsweg ("Jubilee Way"), also nicknamed Jubi among mountaineers, is the name given to the climbing route along the ridge between the Zugspitze (2,962 m) and the Hochblassen (2,706 m) (hence it is also called the Blassenkamm which means "Blassen Crest"). In front of its northwestern end, at the wind gap known as Falsche Grießkarscharte, climbers normally cross over to the Alpspitze (2,628 m) or down to the Mathaisenkar. Along the ridge the three peaks of the Höllentalspitzen (2,740 m), the Vollkarspitze (2,630 m) and several rises have to be assailed or circumnavigated. The route is a serious, high Alpine tour and not, as often described, a Via Ferrata. Source Wikipedia

Alpine Mehrseillängentour, Wird auch gerne solo begangen; Begehung nur bei trockenen Verhältnissen ratsam. In der leichtesten Wegführung I - II; kurzeVarianten bis ca. IV möglich. Für den Schwierigkeitsgrad fester Fels. Material: 3 Express, einige Schlingen, Keile u. Friends. Zustieg: Wie zum Glocknergrat, nach ca. 50 m führt ein schmaler Steig nach links auf einen Sattel. Beschreibung bei den Fotos rechts!

The normal route.

A long and classic way to ascend Mt Blanc. Route is technically easy but a long glacial outing exposed to Serac fall which makes chosing good conditions and timing important. From Col du Midi some 600m up to Mt Blanc du Tacul. Then descending to Col Maudit 4029 and from here som 300m to pass around Mont Maudit and then finally 500m from here to summit.

1. Descend the Aiguille du Midi slope and a ~30 minute approach will bring you to the base of the traverse.

2. Climb the 40 degree snow slope between the southeast and middle summits.

3. Easy scrambling with some exposure will bring you to the central summit. Downclimb on the south side for about 3m to reach a bolted abseil on an exposed ledge.

4. A 30m abseil (bring a long enough rope!) down the north face will land you on an exposed and stunning snow ridge linking the central and main summits. Follow this to the foot of the rock buttress and the crux pitch.

5. 4a. The crux is easier than it looks but there may be some loose rock and requires care. Take a small rack to climb this section. Can be done in 1-2 pitches.

6. At the top, follow the snow slope easily to reach the main summit.

7. Descent: Easy descend down the snow ridge before turning eastwards and walking down to rejoin the approach path back to the Midi.

Mainly UIAA 5

5 und 5- (je eine Stelle), Rest 3 bis 4+ | Klemmkeile sinnvoll

Easiest route up the "Plattenwand", bolted but bringing some nuts is recommended.

All the belays are equipped with two bolts. If you climb to top of first tower it is possible to abseil down the route. If you continue the easy pitches to summit you need to abseil / down climb south face (bring approach kit).

La vía tiene dos pasos clave: la placa del cuarto largo (dos chapas) y el "diedro rompetobillos" del último largo (un clavo). Esta vía es de las mas divertidas y clásicas del Picu Urriellu. Es necesario llevar dos cuerdas ya que en los rapelles las ocuparemos para alcanzar las reuniones (anclajes). Es una vía más mental que física, ya que hay zonas que los posibles seguros alejan bastante. Son 8 largos pero se puede hacer un largo 9 adicional si al llegar a la reunión 8 queremos seguir por el espolón (largo facilillo).

From the Gnifetti hut, walk on the Lys glacier and then on the North face of the Pyramide Vincent.

From Rockfax:

6 - 8 hours.

One of the most popular routes in the valley. The scrambling is excellent throughout and the rock quality is consistently good until the initial part of the descent, but this is low-angled and brief. Other than the pegs on the first pitch and bolts on the abseil, the route is unequipped so you'll need a rack, albeit a fairly small one.

Approach:

From the top of the Index chairlift, descend towards Lac Blanc for 50m then take the jeep track on the left which takes you up towards the Grande Floria and Aiguillette de la Floria. Just after the path branches off to the Grande Floria, the jeep track crests a small col and begins to descend rightwards. When it does this, cut off left and pass under the Aiguillette de la Floria and then climb up to the top of the Floria drag lift. 20m past the drag lift take a path off left, across the scree slope and under the foot of Pointe Gaspard before climbing the gully above, on the left initially, following a grassy path. Continue up the path to the col. The final rocky step to the col is up a left-slanting crack which may feel a bit tricky if wet, so you may be glad of a rope on this section. From the col, go east over 50m of easy ground, along a vague ledge system up and rightwards, underneath the Crochues west ridge to reach the foot of the chimney which marks the start of the route - around 1 hour from the chairlift.

1. 4a. Climb the deep-cut chimney (4a, 35m) passing a couple of pegs on the way to a ledge with plenty of good spikes for belays. There are some loose rocks around the belay spikes, so be careful not to knock anything down.

2. Go up and rightwards (passing to the right of the big boulder on the skyline) and follow easy, grassy terrain to the crest of the Crochues west ridge. You should join the ridge near the bolt belay at the end of routes 2 and 3, although you can join it just about anywhere. Follow the ridge easily for 70m (you can walk below it on the left if it is busy or wet) until the ridge drops away steeply and you are faced with a short descent down to a tower.

3. 3b. Descend towards the tower on the north side of the ridge for 5m, before coming around to the south side of the tower and making an easy but exposed traverse across the south face. A 10m abseil back onto the north side allows you to pass the next, smaller tower on its north side, before climbing a short wall and slab (3b) to regain the ridge crest. The slab section can be bypassed on the south side of the ridge by following a grassy path.

4. Continue easily along the crest with interest until the summit. From the summit descend 30m back down the ascent route before turning east and following the ridge easily to the (marginally higher) north summit.

Descent:

From the north summit, descend to Lac Blanc by scrambling down the Crochues North Ridge for 100m to where the ridge widens out and becomes less solid. Drop off the ridge rightwards and descend a scree/snow slope eastwards towards Lac Blanc. This slope is often snowy well into the summer season but it is the ideal angle for glissading so you can normally get away without crampons. If you leave the crampons behind and realise you need them for the descent, it is possible to carry on along the Crochues north ridge towards the Col du Dards. Shortly before reaching this the ridge drops steeply away and from here, make a 20m abseil east to reach the scree/snow slope where the angle is much lower. Continue down to Lac Blanc and either return to the Index chairlift (45 minutes from Lac Blanc) on an undulating path or descend down to the Flégère cable car (90 minutes).

A classic slab climb with some tricky route finding. A few bolts guiding the way over the slabs, otherwise small cams and nuts. Depending on season you may need crampons and axe for approach & descent.

A classic varied climb with cracks, corners and chimneys on sound solid rock.

Lots of permanent protection (bolts and wedged nuts) in place. Some additional would be useful but not absolutely necessary if the grade is well within your limit.

The original difficulty grades feel significantly lighter and have therefore been adapted here.

Loose rock at the end of the 4th and beginning of 5th pitch.

More info: http://www.routes.gr/?Page=el/Climbing/Routes/AioniotitaKaiMiaMera

An excellent route with varied climbing. Rock is mostly excellent, however pitch 3 and 4 have some loose rock. The last pitch is the crux and ended on a small summit. The belays are bolted and there are numerous pitons through out the climb. A standard rack will get you up.

A nice route with spectacular views. The final ridge is very narrow and exposed. The climb starts up the base of the rocky spur descending south from SE ridge follow this until pt. 3885m. From there the ridge becomes narrow with snow and rock. Some small steps with easy climbing leads ton a snow field which lead up to ridge itself around at 4040m. (on the ridge and snow field there are iron bars placed for protection) Follow ridge to summit 4107m. 1,5h

In der Nähe eines kleinen Sees befindet sich der Einstieg. Im ersten Abnschnitt der Tour zum Maningkogel finden sich die klettertechnisch schweren Stellen. Der Gratübergang zum Gipfel des Acherkogels ist leichter, aber ausgesetzter. Der Abstieg über die Nordflanke ist wegen des schuttbedeckten Gesteins anspruchsvoll und mitunter eisig.

In der Tour finden sich einige Bohrhaken, zur Absicherung sind einige Friens, Keile und Schlingen sinnvoll.

Auf bergsteigen.com findet sich ein Topo.

The normal route.

This is the Hiker's route on the south face and the typical way to descent from the summit. The start of the route begins at the "Andreotti" bivouac, a hut used only for emergency. This hut can be approached from either Varaita Valley or Quintino Sella Hut, over the Sagnettes Pass. The best time to attempt this climb is between early August and mid September, where ice and snow have disappeared and the rock is stabilized. In this period crampons and ice gear are generally not necessary but parties usually start the route roped and wearing helmets. The route is signed by yellow marks and it takes normally 3 hours from the emergency hut to reach the cross on the summit.

Eine sehr schöne Kletterei in solidem Fels, welche zusammen mit dem Gletscher Zu-und Abstieg eine komplette Hochtour mit allen Facetten ergibt. Es sind einzelne Bohrhaken in der Route, gerade an der schwierigen Schlüsselstelle, welche auch links umgangen werden kann. Nach der Kletterei gelangt man über den Firngrat auf den Palü Ostgipfel. Falls keine Spur vorhanden ist erfordert der Zu- und Abstieg gute Fähigkeiten in der Wegfindung durch die Gletscherspalten.

Zustieg: Auf der Palü Normalroute bis auf ca 3280 m.ü.M. und von dort nach rechts an den Einstieg auf ca. 3320 m.ü.M. queren.

Abstieg: Der kürzeste Abstieg führt über den Normalweg runter zur Diavolezza.

Minimales Material für Kletterei: Seil 30m, 3 Friends 0.5-1(BD), 3 Keile, 4 Expressen, 2 Zackenschlingen. Zudem übliche Hochtourenausrüstung.

easy mixed snow rock ridge climb. Crampons and ice axe

Climbing mainly "on the short rope" with some pitches at the steepest places.

Duration: 4-5 hours.

Equipment: trad + crampons, if selecting the ice chute.

A classic climb in the area. Takes the siloutte as seen from Kebnekaise mountain hut.

Einfachster Aufstieg ohne Seilbahnbenutzung

Classic initiation to larger ice climbs. Up to 50 degrees ice.

Starts at Rifugio Pian dei Fiacconi, crosses a small glacier to Forcella de la Marmolada, then follows the Marmolada Cresta Ovest (Marmolada West Ridge) via ferrata from to the Punta Penia summit.

Перша мотузка: по діагоналі до полички на якій вільно розміщаються 3-5 людей.

Друга мотузка: 10-15 метровий траверс.

Третя мотузка: вертикальний підйом до ще більш зручної полички\станції.

Дюльфер з верхньої станції відразу до низу лише при наявності двох мотузок, або у вас 100м

Some exposed scrambling and hiking to the highest peak of greece.

The normal route via Payer Hut. Short 3+ section, lots of scrambling, Ice up to 40°

Topo

Mainly UIAA 6/6+, eine Stelle 7 / 6+ A0. Sehr lohnende Route, der Einstieg befindet sich 2m links der Doktor Ziegenbock!

Long alpine climb mainly on rock. Crux, 75m dihedral 5+

TURAN

A long alpine climb with one ice crux (Nollen) half way up. Crux is 2-3 pitches ice climbing of around 50 degrees with shorter passge of 60-70 depending on conditions. After passing Nollen retreat is difficult. Start from Guggi hut 2791m which is reached by hiking from Eiger gletscher train station. Descent via SE-ridge.

From the Gnifetti hut, walk on the Lys glacier toward the Lysjoch pass. Then join the North-East face of Parrotspitze. Descend by the West face.

After descending from the West face of Parrotspitze, climb the North-East face of Ludwigshohe. Descend to the Lys pass by the North-West face.

Combination of the Old Bonnati route first 4 pitches and the last 2 pitches of Tabou makes for a good 5c to 6b+ climb. This avoids the harder pitches of the other routes.

A nice bolted climb with great views.

Start altitude: 2,225m

Approach: From the top of the Index chairlift, head slightly left towards the buttress. The route is on the wall facing you. Enter the route from the right of the buttress, up where the terrain gets noticeably more vertical.

1. 4c, 50m.

2. 4c, 15m.

3. 4c, 35m.

4. 4b, 30m. Climb to the top of the intermediate spire.

5. 3a, 25m. Scramble rightwards across the small ridge and gap to the belay locates below the slabby wall on a large ledge.

6. 5a, 30m. Climb the wall above to top out.

Descent: Scramble down a route off the back of the buttress towards a loose gully between you and l’Index. Scramble generally leftwards down the gully towards an equipped 28m abseil. At the foot of the abseil walk directly back to the chairlift.

Normal route on Mt Blanc du Tacul. The NW-face may some years have hanging glaciers that are difficult to cross. Also the first part of the "3 montes route" to ascend Mt Blanc.

Leichter Anstieg mit viel Gehgelände, öfters Solo begangen. Einige Schlingen f. Bäume mitnehmen! Die Variante 4a "Gustl III+" in der zweiten SL führt nach der Verschneidung über einen festen, kurzen Grat. Danach ( 2 Baumschlingen ) mit einer lustigen Hangelquerung nach Li. zur Org. - Route.