Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Thu 23rd May 2024 - Tamié | |||||||
★★ ?8 - with Wile E Coyote, Sonnendeck, Felix | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||||
The left variant of the next route left to 'Le Caprice'
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5c+ | ?1 - with Wile E Coyote, Sonnendeck, Felix | 15m | |||||
#warmup in the ramp with alternative exit whoich is harder than 4c.
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6b+ | Gear on Casanova Solo - with Wile E Coyote, Sonnendeck, Felix | 10m, 4 | |||||
First 2 bolts pre-clipped for the sake of safety.
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Wed 22nd May 2024 - Falaise Mandrin | |||||||
Face Sud | |||||||
4c | Les bottes à Mandrin - with Kai, Sonnendeck | 10m, 6 | Don't Bother | ||||
Speckige Rampe
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5b |
Droit dans mes bottes P1
- with
Kai, Sonnendeck
1
5b
| Average | |||||
Nicht zu weit links einsteigen.
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Wed 22nd May 2024 - Carrière du Fier | |||||||
5b | No. 3 - with Kai, Sonnendeck | 17m, 9 | Don't Bother | ||||
Mentales Plattentraining. Lose Griffe und Tritte erhöhen die Anspannung.
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Wed 22nd May 2024 - Falaise Mandrin | |||||||
Face Sud | |||||||
6a+ | ★ Ca me botte - with Wile E Coyote, Sonnendeck | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Good, but very short. Probably avoided the crux because one can't see the crucial hole from below.
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Tue 21st May 2024 - Grande Jeanne | |||||||
Secteur Pirouette | |||||||
5c | ? | ||||||
I think I lead this climb. Had a "7" scratched into the rock. Last section before the main path. A great route. Slabby and easier than it looks. Worth a go.
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Tue 21st May 2024 - Grande Jeanne | |||||||
Secteur Lascaux | |||||||
5b ~5b+ | ★★ Le dièdre des mulots | ||||||
You will know when you meet the crux...or just below it.....big jugs.... Terribly polished by many hands.... Most of which, I reckon, went back down. This is a hard route for 5b.....and the crux moves are polished. Not really a nice route.
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4c ~4b+ | ★★ L'escalier de main | ||||||
Bridging involved. Three routes very close together. Not a bad route. Not sure where the 6a neighbour goes
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Tue 21st May 2024 - Grande Jeanne | |||||||
Secteur des Daims | |||||||
5c | Rage de daim | ||||||
Starting moves are the hardest (trying to figure the correct start is also hard).
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5b ~5b+ | Adaim et Eve | ||||||
Not sure of start. The LHS is not the way I reckon......came onto the rope trying to figure out the moves. Easyish after that.
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Mon 20th May 2024 - Les Pérouses | |||||||
Falaise | |||||||
5c | ★★★ Sous l'Oeil des Papaces (L1) - with Wile E Coyote, Sonnendeck | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Wow what a route. Jugs up to the crux. Then extraordinary laybacks with good feet. I'm loving it.
No idea if there is a second pitch (as shown in the guidebook of R. Durieux). After the lower off there is a lot of vegetation and I didn't see a bolt to head for. |
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5c | ★★★ Amazone (L1) - with Wile E Coyote, Sonnendeck | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
No idea if there is a second pitch (as shown in the guidebook of R. Durieux). After the lower off there is a lot of vegetation and I didn't see a bolt to head for.
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5c |
La Centrale P1
- with
Wile E Coyote, Sonnendeck
1
| 35m, 15 | Average | ||||
The crux move was quite hard for me. Pulling right on a small side-pull-crimp, getting the left foot into a small crimp (swapping with the hand), standing up, supported by a mono pocket and finally a dyno somehow to the big waterhole jug. Great relief to stick that move. Would have been quite a whiper I guess.
Did not continue into the second pitch because I was not motivated enough. |
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5c ~5b+ | ★★★ Super Lunule - with Wile E Coyote, Sonnendeck | 35m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Wow. Worth the approach.
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Sun 19th May 2024 - Vercors | |||||||
Coulmes Presles Fond du cirque | |||||||
6b |
★★ Absolue
- with
Malcolm Urie, keren
1
6a
2
6a
3
6a
4
6b
5
6b
6
6a
Omg
7
4
| 200m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Beautiful climb in an unusual crack climbing style for Presles. Good luck for pitch6 in an awkward chimney. A real adventure even if you feel strong for the grade
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Sun 12th May 2024 - Vercors | |||||||
Coulmes La Goulandière | |||||||
6c+ | ★★ Hallumigène comique - with victor | 35m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Un très très beau voyage
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7c | ★★★ Cool jazz - with victor | 18m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Dur pour moi mais faisable 💪🏻💪🏻
On va y revenir
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6b | ★★★ Magasin de Porcelaine - with victor | 18 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Tellement belle 😍
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Sat 11th May 2024 - Vercors | |||||||
Coulmes La Crique Illusioniste | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Pendu - with victor | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Bonne chauffe
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6b+ | ★★ Throw away your TV | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Top pour la chauffe
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Thu 9th May 2024 - Vercors | |||||||
Coulmes Presles Nugues Creps | |||||||
6c+ | ★★★ Tim 73 - with victor | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Vraiment belle
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7a | ★★ Contraire de un - with victor | ★★ Very Good | |||||
So nice
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7b | ★ Bienvenue à Presles - with victor | ★ Good | |||||
7a+ sur le topo… la baffe qq points sous relais
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6c | ★★ Jules - with victor | ★ Good | |||||
Dur dur pour une fin d echauffement
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Thu 9th May 2024 - Vercors | |||||||
Coulmes Presles Nugues Tina dalle | |||||||
6c | ★ Frère Galette - with victor | Don't Bother | |||||
Le haut est degueulasse…
Chacun son avis mais ca c est le mien
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Sun 5th May 2024 - Virignin | |||||||
7a+ | ★★ D'une pierre de couilles | ★★ Very Good | |||||
#2go Belle voie pour finir le weekend!
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7b Hard | ★★★ L'infâme savatte | ★★★ Classic | |||||
#2go Un beau pas sur réglettes plates et une jolie fin conti/rési.
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7b | ★★ Bouricochonne | ||||||
Jolie voie variée.
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8a | ★★★ La méduse — 4 attempts | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
4 essais dans le weekend, proche mais s'est pas passé!
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★ Projet | ★ Good | ||||||
Don't end at the 1st chain. Continue 2 more quickdraws, you will have a second chain and a very cool ending
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Sat 4th May 2024 - Virignin | |||||||
7b | ★★ La variante logique 7b | ★★ Very Good | |||||
#2go Ligne pas très belle visuellement mais belle escalade.
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Fri 3rd May 2024 - Col de Saint Saturnin | |||||||
Central | |||||||
7a+ ~6c+ | ★★★ ACAB | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Cote a 6c+ dans le topo.
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Wed 1st May 2024 - La Forclaz | |||||||
Cool | |||||||
6c+ ~7a | Jonction 37’-38’ | 28m, 11 | |||||
Crux for me is a very reachy and fingery move on a blank wall, could not do the move yet
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Wed 1st May 2024 - Buis-les-Baronnies | |||||||
Baume Rousse Gauche Compétition | |||||||
6a ~6a+ | ★ Les Mille-et-Unes Buis | 25m, 10 | Crap | ||||
Patinée
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Mon 29th Apr 2024 - Les Aiguilles Rouges | |||||||
Les Chéserys | |||||||
5c Hard | ★★ Voie Bleue | 150m | ★ Good | ||||
In late April wet like a waterfall but nice to climb anyway
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Sun 28th Apr 2024 - Virignin | |||||||
8a | ★★★ La méduse — 5 attempts | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
5 montée sur le weekend
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Sat 27th Apr 2024 - Bionnassay | |||||||
6c Hard | ★★★ Chassez le Naturiste, il revient au Bungalow | 14m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Bit overhanging, body positioning and feet very important. Few holds are a trap 😇
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6c Hard | ★★ Manon des Sources — 4 attempts | 14m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Matter of not clipping from the crux move 💪
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Sun 21st Apr 2024 - Rocher des Aures | |||||||
5b ~5c+ | Mélissa - with Laurent T | 24m, 8 | |||||
Not good for warm-up
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Sat 20th Apr 2024 - Carabins | |||||||
Pierre d'Alain | |||||||
7b+ | ★★★ For Pierre d’Alain — 2 attempts | 19m, 7 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Bien penser a se mettre de profil pour le dévers de départ. Fin en dalle bien monter les pieds et prendre les mains les plus basses ! Décalage a droite.
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6c | ★★★ Tof en ciel | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Pas vue une réglette en main gauche dans le crux du milieu.
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Sat 20th Apr 2024 - Rocher des Aures | |||||||
6a+ | ★★★ Lotentique 1 - with Laurent T | 28m, 17 | |||||
Don’t have the stamina, and difficult to read at the crux
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6a+ | ? - with Laurent T | 20m, 10 | |||||
Quite physical.
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Sat 20th Apr 2024 - Buis-les-Baronnies | |||||||
Baume Rousse Gauche Compétition | |||||||
7a ~7a+ | ★ Les Maccaronies de la Mort - with Moxi | 28m, 10 | Average | ||||
Boulderstart dann unschöne Platte
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Sat 13th Apr 2024 - Gorges de Crossey | |||||||
PAT | |||||||
6b+ | ★ Poil aux PAT - with Thibault B | 20m | |||||
Very hard and fine at the tope, as you need to traverse back to the left to the top anchor.
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Fri 12th Apr 2024 - La Culaz | |||||||
5b ~5b+ | ★★ Daisy - with Alexie | 5 | |||||
Alexie m’a conseillé de ne pas la faire en tête.
Je ne sais pas comment je dois le prendre.
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Thu 11th Apr 2024 - Mollans-sur-Ouvèze | |||||||
Far Ouest | |||||||
7a | ★★★ 6c ça je ne reviendrai pas | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Très rési sur des bons plats
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7b | ★★ ? (Right of Addictophobe) — 2 attempts - with Philip | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Quite reachy and pumpy
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Sun 7th Apr 2024 - Champfromier | |||||||
Couennes | |||||||
5b+ | Clef de sol et sol en scie - with Clara F | ||||||
Last route of the day, nice route with a good variety of styles in different sections.
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Sun 7th Apr 2024 - Chateau Barthelier | |||||||
5b+ | ★★★ Clubster - with Olivier | ||||||
On a utilisé la corde des voisins.
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6a+ | ★★★ Coronacircus - with Olivier | ||||||
Première 6a+ en tête et à vue
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Sun 7th Apr 2024 - Vercors | |||||||
Coulmes Presles Fond du cirque | |||||||
6b | ★ La Rampe des Commères - with Claire | 220m, 14 | ★ Good | ||||
Comme toujours, le 6b, n'est pas volé à Presles...
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Sun 7th Apr 2024 - Vercors | |||||||
Lans en Vercors Le Jardin | |||||||
6b | ★★ Les lunules - with zoe | 20m | |||||
Avec extension 5c
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7b | ★ Libidinos - with zoe | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
Mouvements très bloc😱
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Sat 6th Apr 2024 - Vercors | |||||||
Vallon de la Fauge 4 | |||||||
6a - b ~6b | Vis l'art de l'an - with zoe, les dzo | Don't Bother | |||||
Nul pour la chauffe… ca vous pète les doigts pour rien
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7a | ★ La colonette - with zoe, les dzo | ★ Good | |||||
Une section très technique pour reta la colonnette et surtout après un point de plus aurait été le bienvenu 😬
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7a/a+ ~7a+ | Olympe - with zoe, les dzo | Average | |||||
Rude…
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6c | ★★ Orion - with zoe, les dzo | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Magnifique, des mouvements assez ample, parfait loin pour les moins d 1,80m
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Sat 6th Apr 2024 - Bionnassay | |||||||
6c Hard | ★★ Manon des Sources — 3 attempts | 14m, 6 | |||||
Almoooost... had to tweak the beta finally. Hard clip at the crux.
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Sat 6th Apr 2024 - Saoû | |||||||
La Barre Le Mur du Son | |||||||
6a | ★ Le cri du papillon - with Luc P | 20m, 8 | |||||
Very fine around the 3rd and 4th bolt. Very bouldery.
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6a+ | ★★ Respire - with Luc P | 20m, 9 | |||||
Quite technical, and really worth 6a+. Very fine traverse on the first section, and a committing move to pass over a small “roof” with high foot and uncomfy hands.
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6b | Prise de bec - with Luc P | 20m, 9 | |||||
It is critical to read the route at the second bolt !
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Fri 5th Apr 2024 - Gorges de l'Ardèche | |||||||
Le Grand Charmasson La Corniche | |||||||
7a | ★★★ La trompe d'Eustache - with Erbse, Sarah | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Super fun and technical. Sketchy crux between 5th and 7th bolt. Starts with a short tufa sequence
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7a |
★★ Le croupion dans le blizzard P1
- with
Erbse, Sarah
1
7a
| 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Third try
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Fri 5th Apr 2024 - Gorges du Chassezac | |||||||
Les Actinidias Main Cliff | |||||||
5b |
★★★ Alien vs Predator (right)
1
4b
15m
2
4b
12m
3
5b
20m
| 47m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Probably the weirdest terrain I ever climbed, so cool. Unluckily lack of equipment, so climbed it just until the last bit of rope. Have to come back to complete this journey!
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Thu 4th Apr 2024 - Balazuc | |||||||
Les Barasses Jakadi | |||||||
6c+ | Sentier De Vilains - with tomattsch, Stefn | ★ Good | |||||
Unten kurz links gehalten, aufhocken+Fußklemmer an Absatz
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Thu 4th Apr 2024 - Salavas | |||||||
Font Garnide Secteur 4 | |||||||
7b+ | ★★ Mon corps ne répond plus - with Erbse | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Really nice route. Could not do the crux move shortly before the last bolt.
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Thu 4th Apr 2024 - Salavas | |||||||
Font Garnide Secteur 2 | |||||||
7a+ | ★ Café café - with Erbse | ★ Good | |||||
Last part to the top is super reachy…
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Thu 4th Apr 2024 - Gorges du Chassezac | |||||||
Mazet Petit Aiguille | |||||||
5b | ★ De bouche à oreille - with Maulwurf, Jarno | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Directly after train shower, which made the polished crux very interesting. But even without probably not a present for the grade? Anyway, really cool tricky climbing in the first half!
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6a | ★★ Doigts de fée - with Maulwurf, Jarno | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A hard one. Unlucky slipped out of the wet & muddy key holds in the first slab
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4b | Nez en l'air - with Maulwurf, Jarno | 15m | Average | ||||
One very cruxy move in the middle, found that one pretty hard for a 4.
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Wed 3rd Apr 2024 - Saoû | |||||||
Les Travers Le Mur du Vent | |||||||
7c ~7b | ★★★ Distinctement fluctuant | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Superbe mais je suis sur que ce n’est pas 7c.
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6b+ ~6c+ | ★★ Sédimentation artistique | 20m | |||||
Un mouv très dur sur la 3 ou 4 eme dégaine
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Wed 3rd Apr 2024 - Balazuc | |||||||
Les Barasses Patey | |||||||
7a | ★★ La Balade De Jim — 2 attempts - with Erbse | ★★★ Classic | |||||
2nd try! Nice one.
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Wed 3rd Apr 2024 - Balazuc | |||||||
Les Barasses Jakadi | |||||||
6c+ | Sentier De Vilains - with Erbse | Average | |||||
Without passage between 1st and 2nd bolt.
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Wed 3rd Apr 2024 - Gorges du Chassezac | |||||||
Mazet Petit Aiguille | |||||||
6b | ★★ Pied de nez - with Maulwurf | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fini with plaisir. Beware of the snappy slab at the end!
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4c | ★ Main chaude - with Maulwurf | 23m | ★ Good | ||||
Very cruxy (reachy) move out of the slab, better be tall.
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Wed 3rd Apr 2024 - Gorges du Chassezac | |||||||
Mazet L'Amichel | |||||||
4c |
★★ T'as boulé P1
- with
Maulwurf
1
| 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Plaisir par excellence
|
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Wed 3rd Apr 2024 - Gorges du Chassezac | |||||||
Mazet Petit Aiguille | |||||||
4c | Scarabé d'or - with Maulwurf | 10m | Average | ||||
Tricky at the end
|
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5a | Veuve noire - with Maulwurf | 10m | Don't Bother | ||||
First super easy, the silly top boulder. Not good
|
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Tue 2nd Apr 2024 - Vercors | |||||||
L'Échaillon Chômeurs | |||||||
7c | Silicone carné - with dzo zoe | ||||||
Belle marche d approche puis dur et un move trop dur pour moi… un reta impossible et un run out jusqu au relais, il manque un point…
|
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Mon 1st Apr 2024 - Gorges du Chassezac | |||||||
Mazet Suspense et pilier girls | |||||||
6b | ★ Rêve d'une planète - with Erbse | ★ Good | |||||
Hard & polished…
|
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Fri 29th Mar 2024 - Saoû | |||||||
La Barre Le Mur du Son | |||||||
6c ~7a | Fréquence CAF Saoû Synclinal | 20m, 11 | |||||
En comparaison avec la 7a d’à côté, je l’ai trouvé plus dur.
|
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7a Easy | ★★ Supersonique — 2 attempts | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
1 pas de bloc
|
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Thu 28th Mar 2024 - Gorges du Chassezac | |||||||
Mazet Chez les Grands | |||||||
6a ~6a+ | ★★★ Les strates | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
guidebook says 6b, I would say 6a+/6b
|
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Wed 27th Mar 2024 - Giffre Valley | |||||||
Chapelle Saint Gras Dents de la mort | |||||||
6b ~6b+ | ★★ Chic Planète - with Aleksandra T | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Quite sustained
|
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6a ~6a+ | ★★ On a marche sur la lune — 2 attempts - with Aleksandra T | 21m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Quite athletic, nice but also bird poopy
|
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6b+ Hard | ★★ Boulevard des couennes - with Gwen L.G. | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Hard crux, chill slab afterwards.
|
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6b ~6b+ | ★★ Chic Planète - with Gwen L.G. | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Definitely my hardest onsight. Very interesting climb with cool technical footwork. Quite athletic for a "vertical" climb. Maybe 6b before the holds got polished?
|
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6a Hard | ★★ On a marche sur la lune - with Gwen L.G. | 21m, 10 | |||||
lost balance before the athletic section
|
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Mon 25th Mar 2024 - Chateau Barthelier | |||||||
5a+ | ★★ Mascarpogne - with Maulwurf | 29m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
The upper half is really worthwhile and surprisingly easy.
|
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6b | ★★ Emasqualition - with Maulwurf | 28m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fierce slab low down, then a cool juggy upper wall. The crux for me was to move right out of the dihedral at the end of the slab.
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5b | ★ Vaccinglinglin - with Maulwurf | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
One hard move in the middle slab. Feels a bit brittle in parts.
|
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Wed 20th Mar 2024 - Lac d'Annecy | |||||||
Barre des écureuils | |||||||
6C/C+ | ★★★ La zipette magique — 20 attempts | ★★★ Classic | |||||
trop stylé ! c'est long comme bloc avec des inversées, par contre pas beaucoup de pied si on est plus petit aïe aïe... ^^'
|
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Mon 18th Mar 2024 - La Chambotte | |||||||
Chambotte droite Toit carré | |||||||
6b ~6c | ★★ Le Toit Carre | ★ Good | |||||
Sandbag, sparse bolting, some great moves involved, has a little bit of everything
|
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Thu 14th Mar 2024 - Massif du Mont Blanc | |||||||
Mont Blanc du Tacul 4248m East face | |||||||
TD | ★★★ Gabarrou-Albinoni couloir - with Leo K | 500m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Revisited this classic route. Weather was nice with little wind. Lot's of fresh snow in starting gully. Good ice conditions in gully itself. Compared to last time there is a major rock "pole" that is wedged across the gully at the last pitch than one have to climb over. Rappel anchors bolted for 60m ropes.
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Thu 14th Mar 2024 - Massif du Mont Blanc | |||||||
Argentiere glacier Aiguille d'Argentière | |||||||
AD | Couloir en Y | 450m | |||||
Too warm, heavy slabs of snow were sliding down the couloir
|
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Thu 14th Mar 2024 - Lac d'Annecy | |||||||
Barre des écureuils | |||||||
6A+ Easy | ★★★ Faille y fer — 4 attempts | ★★★ Classic | |||||
je l'ai trouvé plus facile que BDE et sciuridé, Je suis passé sans prendre le gros trou à la fin juste avec les réglettes sortant de l'écaille
|