Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Mon 6th May 2024 - La Restonica | |||||||
PGHM | |||||||
5c | L'entrée en matière - with Matěj Novotný | ||||||
5c | Tafonette - with Matěj Novotný | ||||||
Sat 4th May 2024 - La Restonica | |||||||
L'Ortale Stella/Luna | |||||||
4+ | ★ I Mio Amore - with Eliska Valterova | 15m, 7 | |||||
6c | Sempre Cu Te - with Eliska Valterova | 15m, 3 | |||||
5+ ~6 | ★ So di Passaghju - with Eliska Valterova | 20m | |||||
Sat 4th May 2024 - La Restonica | |||||||
L'Ortale Poisson d'avril | |||||||
6a | ★★ Poisson d'avril - with Eliska Valterova | 30m | |||||
5c | ★★★ Aout es-tu? - with Eliska Valterova | 20m | |||||
5b | Mars attaque - with Eliska Valterova | 20m | |||||
5a | ★ Unnamed 1 - with Eliska Valterova | 20m | |||||
5a | Unnamed 2 - with Matěj Novotný | 20m | |||||
5a | ★ Unnamed 1 - with Matěj Novotný | 20m | |||||
5b | Mars attaque - with Matěj Novotný | 20m | |||||
5c | ★★★ Aout es-tu? - with Matěj Novotný | 20m | |||||
Sat 4th May 2024 - La Restonica | |||||||
L'Ortale Stella/Luna | |||||||
5+ | ★ So di Passaghju - with Matěj Novotný | 20m | |||||
5 | ★★★ Rasta - with Matěj Novotný | 20m, 8 | |||||
Fri 3rd May 2024 - La Restonica | |||||||
Candide et Martin | |||||||
6a | ★★ L'envers du décors - with Eliska Valterova | ||||||
6c | Au delà des apparences - with Eliska Valterova | ||||||
5c | ★★ Beauté divine - with Eliska Valterova | ||||||
5c | ★★ Beauté divine - with Matěj Novotný | ||||||
Sat 27th Apr 2024 - La Restonica | |||||||
L'Ortale Stella/Luna | |||||||
6a | ★★ Stella — 2 attempts - with Markus | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6c | Sempre Cu Te — 4 attempts - with Markus | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
6a+ | ★★★ Luna - with Rainer | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
4+ | ★ I Mio Amore - with Virginie | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
5 | ★★★ Rasta - with Rainer | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 30th Mar 2024 - La Restonica | |||||||
L'Ortale Stella/Luna | |||||||
6a | ★★ Stella | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
6a+ | ★★★ Luna | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Thu 14th Mar 2024 - La Restonica | |||||||
Picellu Bord de route | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Eramu duei | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Tue 12th Mar 2024 - La Restonica | |||||||
Picellu Miroir Brise | |||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Calafate — 3 attempts - with Marion Lemetayer | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really enjoyed this one! It was tricky to find the beta from bolt 2 til 4, but very good!
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Tue 12th Mar 2024 - La Restonica | |||||||
Picellu La Conque | |||||||
5c | Las chicas mandocinas 1 - with Marion Lemetayer | ||||||
5+ | Bede - with Marion Lemetayer | ||||||
6a+ | ★★★ La banane par les deux bouts - with Marion Lemetayer | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Amazing!! The second half on very sculpted granite is so much fun!!
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Sat 9th Mar 2024 - La Restonica | |||||||
Picellu La Conque | |||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Cent ans de solitude - with Marion Lemetayer | ★★★ Classic | |||||
This was very enjoyable to climb!
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6a+ ~6b | ★★ Pierre et Pierre - with Marion Lemetayer | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Tricky from start to end!
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Mon 23rd Oct 2023 - La Restonica | |||||||
Picellu La Conque | |||||||
6c+ | A Bon Entendeur - with Yvonne | ||||||
6a+ | ★★★ La banane par les deux bouts - with Yvonne | ||||||
6a | ★ Si meia - with Yvonne | ||||||
6b | Prelude - with Yvonne | ||||||
5+ | ★★ Frontiere sauvage - with Yvonne | ||||||
Sun 22nd Oct 2023 - La Restonica | |||||||
Candide et Martin | |||||||
5c | ★★ Tintacciu - with Yvonne | 30m | |||||
6a+ | In un gestu di bellenza - with Yvonne | ||||||
6a+ | ★ Jardin de lumière - with Yvonne | ||||||
5c | ★★ Beauté divine - with Yvonne | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Djebel amour - with Yvonne | ||||||
Fri 6th Oct 2023 - La Restonica | |||||||
Punta Spenicazzia | |||||||
5c | ★★★ Candella di l'oro - with Christoph Rauch, Ellen | 200m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fri 6th Oct 2023 - La Restonica | |||||||
Picellu La Conque | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Frontiere sauvage | ★ Good | |||||
6b | Prelude | Average | |||||
6c+ | ★★ Ugolin | ★★ Very Good | |||||
6a+ | ★★ Papet | ★ Good | |||||
Fri 6th Oct 2023 - La Restonica | |||||||
Tuani | |||||||
6a+ | ★ Un chat dans le maquis | ★ Good | |||||
6a | ★ Dernière minute | ★ Good | |||||
Fri 6th Oct 2023 - La Restonica | |||||||
Punta Spenicazzia | |||||||
5+ 5c | ★★★ Candella di l'oro - with Ellen, Bovist | 200m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Seemingly gets a lot of traffic. We were at the start before 10 and there was already a (slightly slow) group in front of us. Before we started, the next group already showed up, so we were wedged in a bit. I took my time and enjoyed each pitch, but the French guys behind us seemed to be in a hurry. The first pitch is probably the hardest and the one where I needed the most additional protection. Pitch 2 is an easy stroll over the ridge, but very enjoyable. I just put slings on each intermediate jag, almost no rope drag this way (make sure to avoid clipping the stuck cam ;-)). Pitch 3 is in great position slightly to the right of the dull arête. Of course, pitch 4 is the money pitch, leading through a labyrinth of massive tafoni. Protection is a non-issue, just avoid rope drag. The last few meters of the pitch aren't obvious, look out for a bolt on the right that leads into a short chimney section. Going around left is also possible, probably even easier, but not as exposed. The final pitch is easier and not too interesting. Communication from the top is difficult. Great view from the top, a nice place to rest.
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Thu 5th Oct 2023 - La Restonica | |||||||
A Tomba A Tomba | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ A l'an que ven | 28m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6c | ★★ Li frachiani li richiliji | ★★ Very Good | |||||
6b | ★★ Les fleurs de Céline | 28m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Wed 4th Oct 2023 - La Restonica | |||||||
Candide et Martin | |||||||
5c | ★★ Tintacciu - with Christoph Rauch, Ellen | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6b | ★★ Candide et Martin - with Ellen | 130m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A slightly awkward start leads into a fantastic section through overhanging black tafoni, followed by a tricky slab section to a good belay below a little roof. All in all spaced protection, but no geaar needed. The other pitches are great, too, getting more and more slabby, but with enough interesting movement problems strewn in. A 70 meter rope is not enough for the first abseil!
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5c | ★★ Tintacciu - with Ellen | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A marvellous introduction to tafoni climbing. Jugs en masse, with ridiculous positions for the grade.
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7a | ★★ La bedaine - with Ellen | 35m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Took a good fall in the sustained starting section when my foot popped off a hold. Worked out a stable solution.
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7a | ★★ La bedaine - with Ellen | 35m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Went horrible, but I got through anyway. :-D The difficulties are over after the first 10 meters, from there it's an awesome dihedral with some 3d climbing and spaced bolting, just my cup of tea. Slightly more athletic top section. A fine piece of rock.
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Tue 26th Sep 2023 - La Restonica | |||||||
Tuani | |||||||
6a | Martinu | ||||||
5c | Mare di petra | ||||||
6a | ★ Dernière minute | ||||||
6a | Eau et gaz à tous les étages | ||||||
Mon 25th Sep 2023 - La Restonica | |||||||
Candide et Martin | |||||||
6a+ | Bernie P1 | ||||||
6a | Le très bas | ||||||
6a | ★★ L'envers du décors | ||||||
6a+ | ★ Jardin de lumière | ||||||
5c | ★★ Beauté divine | ||||||
Sun 24th Sep 2023 - La Restonica | |||||||
L'Oratoire | |||||||
6a | Le truand | ||||||
6a+ | Pousse Mousse | ||||||
5c | ★★★ Scène de guerre | ||||||
6a | The Pillar of Windsor? | ||||||
6a | First step | ||||||
Sat 23rd Sep 2023 - La Restonica | |||||||
Tuani | |||||||
6a | Martinu | ||||||
5c | Mare di petra | ||||||
6a | ★ Dernière minute | ||||||
Thu 21st Sep 2023 - La Restonica | |||||||
Candide et Martin | |||||||
6a | Basgi la vieille | ||||||
6a | Le très bas | ||||||
6a | ★★ L'envers du décors | ||||||
5c | ★★ Beauté divine | ||||||
Wed 20th Sep 2023 - La Restonica | |||||||
L'Ortale Poisson d'avril | |||||||
6a | ★★ Poisson d'avril | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5a | ★ Unnamed 1 | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Mon 14th Aug 2023 - La Restonica | |||||||
L'Oratoire | |||||||
4c | ★★ Mary Poppins | ★★ Very Good | |||||
5c | ★★★ Scène de guerre | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Mon 7th Aug 2023 - La Restonica | |||||||
L'Ortale Poisson d'avril | |||||||
5b | Mars attaque - with Isabelle A. | 20m | |||||
5c | ★★★ Aout es-tu? - with Isabelle A. | 20m | |||||
6b | ★★ Mai alors - with Isabelle A. | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6a | ★★ Poisson d'avril - with Isabelle A. | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 5th Aug 2023 - La Restonica | |||||||
Sorbellu U Fiancu/Pyramide | |||||||
5c | Totem - with Isabelle A. | 18m | |||||
6a+ | ★★ Sta sente - with Isabelle A. | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5c | ★ G8 an 2001 - with Isabelle A. | 22m, 11 | |||||
Tue 4th Jul 2023 - La Restonica | |||||||
L'Ortale Poisson d'avril | |||||||
5b | Mars attaque - with Dr. Honzin, ada | 20m | |||||
5c | ★★★ Aout es-tu? - with Dr. Honzin, ada | 20m | |||||
6a | ★★ Poisson d'avril - with Dr. Honzin, ada | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Mon 3rd Jul 2023 - La Restonica | |||||||
L'Ortale Stella/Luna | |||||||
6a | ★★ Stella - with Dr. Honzin | 20m | |||||
5a | ★★★ Rasta - with Dr. Honzin, ada | 20m, 8 | |||||
4c | ★★★ Onda - with Dr. Honzin, ada | 15m | |||||
Sun 2nd Jul 2023 - La Restonica | |||||||
L'Ortale Stella/Luna | |||||||
6a | ★★ Stella - with Martin Bulko | 20m | |||||
4+ | ★★★ Onda - with Martin Bulko | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5 | ★★★ Rasta - with Martin Bulko | 20m, 8 |