Ascents in Unteres Pegnitztal

Eher 8+

Fantastic, sunny arête in perfect rock. Hooks left and right, technical moves on sidepulls and an airy, overhanging finish on pockets along the arête a bit to the left.

Technical slab with polished feet, reminded me a lot of the "Johannisriss" in Würgau. Pushed through the crux at the skin of my teeth, but then almost fell out of the crack above since I couldn't find a good rest position. Definitely hard for the grade.

schwierige Einzelstelle

Long, good climbing, less chossy than it looks, but still fragile. Spaced bolting that keeps you on edge, but not really dangerous. The crux at the bulge is ridiculously hard and probably has nothing to do with 8- if you don't go a bit left, which is then actually the line of "Kurva Němec" … makes the latter a bit useless. Fantastic easy finish over the little pillar.

Fantastic route from the second bolt to the top. Quite athletic, with good holds. Unfortunately, the first four meters are chossy and a soft grip it is advised.

Nice jugfest. Felt easier than "Wildpflaume" further right.

A great climb and a remarkable achievement for 1912. Legend has it that this was one of the first routes in Franken in which pitons were used as aid, which is understandable given that the bulge at the second bolt is pretty tricky and hard when climbed freely. Marvellous rock and a nice crack finish.

Technical start, powerful middle section, then somehow ends in the dirt and the last bolt is hard to reach because it's shared with the left neighbour … if the first 6 meters were part of a longer route, it would be great.

Nice wall climbing, a few longer moves. The last bolt is set a bit far on the left on purpose, so one is drawn towards climbing directly in the overhanging wall, but the arête is a bit easier and also very nice, so why force a line like that?

Nice pocket climb, probably easier than 7. Especially compared to its namesake at "Glatte Wand". Only one or two difficult moves, just below the anchor.

Another Riffler classic. Frankenjura's first UIAA 7-. The countless attempts are quite noticeable, though. The polish makes it feel much harder. But maybe it has always been this way, hats off to the old chums! Tricky, technical yet powerful dihedral. The top section is an unprotected chimney, some cams or nuts will do the trick if you're scared.

A bit unsure where to go up top. I guess the first ascent just went up the easy gully.

Slightly brittle start up to the traverse of "Bäumlesweg" (the direct start was bolted later, I think), then a perfect slab with great moves to the ledge.