Ascents in Dooser Wand

Über die ersten vier Haken von Don Colodri Baumann und 3.+4.Haken der Westkante zu Zwischenstand vom Alten Weg und anschließend den schwierigen Direktausstieg.

Nice traverse, always aiming for that last dihedral on the very left, passing another obvious opportunity to go up ("Mother's Finest"). Technical moves in black rock except for the athletic start.

Finally sent this king line. My last attempt earlier this year really paid off, even though I remembered the beta only schematically. This was also the first time I tried the direct start via "Taschenspieler", which adds around 8 to 10 meters of technical wall climbing. The conditions were also perfect, so the middle section felt pretty safe (also, there's an old peg that I hadn't seen before which helps a bit). Brilliant slab dance to the crux as always. Shook out shortly, then started into the bouldery passage. The hold for my left hand felt somehow wrong, but I knew I wouldn't get the chance to readjust, so I just put my right foot up high onto the important foothold I remembered, and pressed up into the undercling. After this I felt quite fresh, so I knew I could make it if I kept my shit together, which I apparently did. The finish felt secure and calm, I wasn't even too pumped when I reached the anchor.

#warmup

Surprisingly good, bit dusty though.

nice route to end the day

way easier than the assigned grade imo, the crux would be at the overhang. Could be a bit more problematic if you are shorter.

climbed this as the second pitch to "Don Colodri Baumann"

climbed this as a multipitch combination with "No Chance for Klemmkeil Manni"

nice route, especially the traverse before the anchor consists out of some nice moves and could be considered the hardest part of the route. continued to the top via the left variant (led by me)

My second attempt at the route, same result as last time. Found a pretty good beta for the crux this time, though. No option for a second attempt today because an owl came flying out the dihedral on the left, noticed it‘s breeding there on the way down. Please avoid the route and the ones to the left.

Nice black slab, quite tough today because it was moist, followed by a one-move crux to the big jug rail. A few more athletic moves to the anchor.

Probably the original finish, but best done in two pitches, which is why it's not climbed often today. I fumbled the book at the belay, so I actually had to do the first pitch twice to bring it back (undamaged, luckily). The holds in the traverse into the final dihedral are surprisingly small. My 60 m rope reached the ground from the bolt at the very top (I should put a maillon and ring into the bolt below the ledge next time, it's already quite worn).

Quite good, actually, with crux just after it splits from "Westkante". Slightly to the left onto a spike, then back into the dihedral where the book once was (I wonder why it's been removed) and easy terrain to the anchor. Slightly brittle in the middle, though.

Climbed in two pitches.

Harder part is rather on the lower half, getting easier the more up one goes with one crux at the middle, where there's a few hard moves over a bulge. Not much easier than "Westkante - rechter Ausstieg" on the left.

Shares the start with "Zoff", traverses to the left at the second bolt. The traverse and the first little overhang are the hardest part of the route, but the rest is still demanding and fun to climb. Small pockets in vertical to slightly slabby terrain. Nice one!

Good route with few fixed protection. Protection also needs to be placed carefully, because the flakes might not withstand the forces of camming devices in case of a fall. I stopped at the last bolt and didn't climb the traverse into "Siebter Sinn" because the guys below told me that the route ended at the last bolt and that this was a belay anchor, but that's not the case. Next time I'll climb the traverse as well (but maybe using the bolt, or at least threading a new sling).